Giro 2024: Stage 14: Castiglione della Stiviere to Desenzano del Garda

Where are we? Lombardy!

Castiglione della Stiviere: The Giro tells me: Castiglione delle Stiviere, home of San Luigi Gonzaga and the Red Cross, is a town immersed in the green scenery of the Morainic Hills, and the beating heart of a fascinating territory where nature, history and modernity co-exist in vibrant harmony.

Giro Specialties: None listed

Desenzano del Garda: 
Giro specialties: Desenzano’s dining options offer an all-round experience, starting with the numerous “agriturismi” (countryside rustic restaurants which usually serve food that was prepared from raw materials produced on the farm or from other local merchants) scattered throughout the hinterland offering good dishes of the highest quality.

The main ingredient of Garda Lake cuisine is obviously its fish. Here, in a highly fishy environment, visitors can enjoy trout, eel, whitefish, pike, perch, the rare carp and, from early summer, sardines and bleak. The local restaurants know how to enhance the taste and flavour of these products.

Another pearl of the Desenzano and Garda area is the PDO extra virgin olive oil, characterised by a very low degree of acidity, which makes it quite digestible and therefore much sought after. The many historical oil mills work hard to ensure quality of production and, over the years, they have established themselves as a Garda landmark. 

How could we fail to mention Grana Padano, which has its headquarters in Desenzano and has now consolidated its position as an international leader in the production and distribution of its cheese. Suitable for any type of meal, Grana Padano is an Italian excellence and pride, to be savoured at an aperitif with friends, as a snack or at the lunch or dinner table.

The stage: Time for another time trial. Would it be Pogacar, Ganna or a surprise?

Indeed, Ganna would be in the hot seat for a long time at 35:02.

And he would stay in that seat all the way to the end. Though it would be close, his time would hold. 

The wine: From 2022

 ArPePe Rosso di Valtellina

from Dig. 

The importer tells me: 

• 100% Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo)
• 50-100-year-old vines
• Sourced from lower slopes of Sassella and Grumello vineyards at 350-400 meters
• South/east exposure.  110-day maceration on the skins
• Aged 6-12 mo. in 50 -hectoliter untoasted casks
• 4,000 cases produced annually
• First vintage 2003

The food: Grana Padano Let's have some cheese! 

Aged for a minimum of 9 months, the origin of Grana Padano dates back to the Cistercian monks of the Chiaravalle Abbey. From the polders of northern Italy, the cheese is produced with milk from free-range cows. 

Giro 2024: Stage 13: Riccione to Cento

Where are we?: In Emilia Romagna.

Riccione: Situated on the Adriatic Riviera of Romagna, Riccione is one of the most famous seaside resorts on the Adriatic. A very rich show schedule with amazing events makes Riccione the undisputed destination for thousands of people with different targets, but everyone looking for originality and tips to get quality products. Performances, shows and festivals, concerts, cinema and theatre,  the big sports events, the trendy shopping together with theme parks, clubs on the beach and on the hills, hang around with guests every month of the year.
Giro Specialties: None listed

Cento: The Giro tells me that: Cento is synonymous with Carnival, one of the most famous and oldest in Europe! This festival was already well-known at the beginning of the 17th century, when the artist known as Guercino painted scenes of the costume party held in the town square. Radical changes have taken place since then, but Carnival remains an unmissable event that has been transformed over time to keep the enthusiasm alive.

Giro specialties: Salama da sugo di Buonacompra IGP: Legend attributes an important role in reconstructing the product’s origins to Lucrezia Borgia, who married Alfonso d’Este in the early 1500s. The first written records of products very similar to ‘Salama da sugo’ date back to the Renaissance period.

The stage: The flattest of flat. The last chance for the sprinters for a long time. 

Cue doomed break and as routine a day as we find on the Giro, except for a bit of fun crosswind action. 

Milan! Three for the race for him. He made that look easy.

The wine: From 2019

La Stoppa Ageno
Back to this one: From the importer: La Stoppa is a 50 hectare property located in North-West Emilia-Romagna. Founded in the late 19th century by a wealthy lawyer named Gian-Marco Ageno, the estate is currently run by Elena Pantaleoni and head vignaiolo Giulio Armani. 32 hectares of vines are planted in Barbera and Bornada for red, as well as a small amount of Malvasia Candia, Ortrugo and Trebianno for whites.

I say: Orange wine alert. 30 days of skin maceration with natural yeasts creates a deep "orange" color.

The food:  Piadina from Academia Barilla

For the dough

• 1 pound all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 3 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup water

For filling

• Prosciutto di Parma
• Squacquerone, or another fresh, soft cheese (such as stracchino cheese or cottage cheese)
• arugula

Preparation:

Piadina is traditionally made with pork fat. Our piadina is a lighter version made with extra-virgin olive oil.
Combine flour, salt, and baking powder in a bowl, then mix in oil and water.
Knead dough for about 10 minutes until smooth in consistency.
Cover dough in plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for an hour.
Note: If the dough is being prepared in advance, you can keep the prepared dough in the refrigerator.
Lightly flour the countertop and roll out the dough with a rolling pin until very thin, around a tenth of an inch.
Cut out 7-12 inch circles and poke holes in it with a fork.
Cook in a non-stick pan over medium heat without added fat for 1-2 minutes each side.
Serve warm, either alone or as part of a sandwich.
Piadinas are usually stuffed with salted and savoury ingredients. The most famous in Italy is with Prosciutto di Parma and squacquerone, a fresh, soft cheese. If unavailable, squacquerone can be replaced with stracchino cheese or even cottage cheese. The cheese and prosciutto are placed on the piadina with greens which is then folded up and served.
Buon appetito!

Giro 2024 Stage 12: Martinsicuro to Fano

Where are we? In Abruzzo and the Marche.

Martinsicuro: Italia.it tells me that The last town in Abruzzo, separated from Marche by the Tronto river, Martinsicuro is located in the Val Vibrata area and has preserved part of its historical heritage over time. The early settlement developed around the Tower of Charles V, the watchtower erected at the behest of King Charles V in the mid-16th century as a defence against Saracen raids. The tower currently houses the Antiquarium of Castrum Truentinum, which preserves artefacts, from prehistoric times to the Longobard period, from excavations in the Colle Marzio area. The Sacred Heart of the Gesu parish church, dating from the 20th century, has a Latin cross plan and an elegant portico. Opposite the church is \'Villa Bernabei\', a mid-19th century mansion. Also known as the \'First Beach of Abruzzo\' and surrounded by gentle green hills that host small villages rich in history and charm, Martinsicuro attracts visitors not only for its beautiful coastline but also thanks to its historical, architectural and natural heritage. In summer, the waterfront area offers various entertainment opportunities: if during the day they are a place to relax, in the evening they host clubs that organise atmospheric aperitifs on the beach, but also beach bars and lounge bars that organise evenings with music and DJ sets.

Giro specialties: None listed.

Fano: Italia.it tells me that The ancient Fanum Fortunae, located at the end of the Via Flaminia, is still alive in the city walls and, above all, in the entrance gate: the Arch of Augustus. Today, Fano is a seaside town where the sea is the element that, perhaps more than any other, has left its mark on local customs and traditions. In particular, the city's vibe is closely linked to the sea: among the typical dishes of a Fano table is 'Brodetto alla fanese (fish soup), the rustic and not to be forgotten typical Fano drink made of coffee, rum, aniseed and brandy called 'Moretta', which was drunk by sailors and fishermen in the harbour to warm themselves before setting sail with their boats. Fano, however, is also famous for its Carnival, the oldest and most charming in Italy: allegorical floats that cross the centre and reach heights of more than 15 metres, masks, costumes and parades transform the city every year into a widespread celebration that involves inhabitants and visitors alike with the typical throwing of sweets. Also among the must-see events are: Passages Festival the non-fiction and book festival, theBrodetto Fest, a festival of international resonance celebrating Fano's traditional dish, Fano Jazz by the Sea, a whole week dedicated to Jazz concerts with guests and artists from all over the world and Fano dei Cesari, a Roman historical re-enactment involving the entire historic centre and its inhabitants through the long parade through the city streets and the famous chariot race.

Giro specialties: None listed

The stage: This stage had breakaway all over it. Indeed we would have a very large break. Surging out of it, Julian Alaphilippe!  He had company for quite a while, but eventually went out solo.

Just a joy to see. 

The wine: From 2014

 Fontezoppa Falcotto 2008
 $26 from Biondivino

From the producer: The concentration of loose soil, with stones and sandstone make this wine a full bodied dry wine with mineral and sulphur notes on the nose, and moderately tannin flavour. Hints of red mulberries, blackcurrants, wild cherries and smoky notes. Dry on the palate.

DOC SERRAPETRONA
Year of Vintage 2008
Colour RED
Grapes VERNACCIA NERA 100%
Alcohol Content 13%
Soil SANDSTONE, LIMEY
Altitude 450
Age of Vineyards 10
Aspects SOUTH
Training System GUYOT
Number of Plants per Hectare 8900
Yield per Hectare in Quintals 40
Wine Making STEEL AND FRENCH OAK
Ageing in STEEL for 3 months, in CASKS for 12 months
Not filtered or fined

I say: Today's grape: Vernaccia Nera. Google tells me that "Vernaccia' comes from the Latin for vernacular. Farmers applied the name to random indigenous grapes of different regions, so now there are several well known Vernaccia that are completely unrelated. So, essentially: local grape.  

The food:Virtu

The traditional soup, recipe from Academia Barilla

Ingredients:

1 ½ lb legumes , dried
salt
3 ½ lb legumes , fresh
spinach
carrot
celery
swiss chard
fennel
endive
marjoram
mint
lard
⅝ lb fresh pasta
1 ½ lb pasta , dry
parsley
onion
clove
pepper
nutmeg
tomato sauce
garlic
ground pork
ham bone

Preparation: Leave the dry pulses to soften in cold water for at least one day. Then cook them in lightly salted water until they are half-cooked. Clean all the vegetables (except for the onion, garlic and parsley), cook in salted water, drain and put aside. In a second receptacle, boil together the pork meats (which should be salted and peppered). When cooked, bone them, cut into small pieces, and put them back into the stock. Add the cooked pulses and some marjoram and wild mint leaves. Prepare a chopped mixture of lard and parsley and brown in a pan with the tomato sauce, onion and garlic well-chopped. Stir the sauté, and add to the stock with the boiled vegetables. When almost cooked, adjust the salt, put in the pasta (beginning with the dry varieties and the larger formats) and the fresh pulses and finish off the cooking. This minestrone, very rich and extremely tasty, may be consumed hot or cold. It is prepared on the occasion of the 1st of May (May Day).

Giro 2024 Stage 11: Foiano di Val Fortore to Francavilla al Mare

 

Where are we? Heading from Campagna to Abruzzo.

Foiano di Val Fortore:  The regional tourist site tells me that Foiano di Val Fortore rises up on the first folds of the Adriatic side, at the bottom of a valley and the left of the river Fortore surrounded by mountains. The village has been part of the Province of Benevento since 1861, after belonging first to the Province of Foggia (until 1811) and then to that of Molise. Foiano is distant 43 kilometres from Benevento and is situated at 520 metres above sea level. It is easy to understand that the entire area that surrounds Foiano di Val Fortore takes its name from the river with the same name (Fortore river) which is also a natural border between the Campania, Molise and Puglia regions.

Giro specialties: The landscape conformation on which the village lies favors a highly appreciated wine production as well as that of the famous caciocavallo silano DOP cheese .

Caciocavallo Silano DOP is a semi-hard, stretched curd (pulled-curd) cheese made from the milk of cows of different breeds, including the podolica, a typical breed indigenous to the inland areas of Campania. The most widely accepted theory on the origin of the name “caciocavallo” is that it derives from the custom of hanging the cheeses, in pairs, on wooden poles, placed near fireplaces.

Francavilla al Mare: As the name suggests, let's go to the sea. The Abruzzo tourist site tells me that  Don't be fooled by the modern and young appearance of this delightful seaside resort in the province of Chieti, an ideal destination for families looking for quiet beaches and equipped beaches, for young people who love sports activities and nightlife, and for those who want a relaxing holiday with all services at hand.

We will reveal a secret to you (which perhaps very few people know): the coastal center has very ancient origins, as demonstrated by archaeological finds from prehistoric, Italic and Roman times. The first stable residential nucleus dates back to the Lombard period, when a community freed from feudal constraints - hence the name Francavilla - settled there and traced the typical medieval "herringbone" urban layout. 

Giro specialties:  Local Cusine lovers will have the opportunity to savour the delicious local dishes, which are renowned for some of the typical products they are cooked with, such as Abruzzo pear tomatoes and strawberries. Furthermore, visitors will have the opportunity to taste the region’s fine wines, steeped in a wine tradition rooted in Abruzzo’s fertile soil.

The stage: A sprint stage with some bumps in the beginning. 

Cue doomed breakaway that never get a very large gap. Mainly though, it was a quiet day.

Indeed, a bunch sprint and another win for Milan. 

The wine: From 2016

Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo 'Grecomusc' 2013
From the importer:  Contrade di Taurasi is owned by Sandro Lonardo, a schoolteacher, and his wife Enza. They make Aglianico IGT, Taurasi, and small amounts of a white wine made from Greco Musc’, an indigenous white variety (grown ungrafted, interestingly). Their vineyards are all exposed directly south, which is ideal, and are at about 1300 feet above sea level, which may explain how a wine picked in the beginning of November in a warm climate can come in at relatively modest alcohol (between 13 and 13.5% in most vintages). All the vineyards are in the official Taurasi zone, but more than half of the fruit is declassified to IGT Aglianico, which improves the Taurasi and gives us an excellent, more forward example of Aglianico to drink while we're waiting for the Taurasi. Click here for a link to the Contrade di Taurasi website.

The food: Caciocavallo cheese:  From cheese.com: The history of Caciocavallo goes back to 500 BC when Hippocrates first mentioned the cleverness of the Greeks in making it. Cheeses similar to Caciocavallo are common all over the Balkans and Southern Italy. In fact, Ragusano DOP from Sicily had to drop the name Caciocavallo Ragusano to achieve the DOP label.

Giro 2024 Stage 10: Pompei to Cusano Mutri

Where are we? In Campagna, starting in a place you may have heard of before.

Pompeii: Visit Pompeii reminds me that The archaeological ruins of Pompeii cover around 440,000 square meters, a vast area that would take at least three full days to explore completely.

From Pliny the Younger: A cloud, from which mountain was uncertain, at this distance (but it was found afterwards to come from Mount Vesuvius), was ascending, the appearance of which I cannot give you a more exact description of than by likening it to that of a pine tree, for it shot up to a great height in the form of a very tall trunk, which spread itself out at the top into a sort of branches; occasioned, I imagine, either by a sudden gust of air that impelled it, the force of which decreased as it advanced upwards, or the cloud itself being pressed back again by its own weight, expanded in the manner I have mentioned; it appeared sometimes bright and sometimes dark and spotted, according as it was either more or less impregnated with earth and cinders."

Giro Specialties: The “Piennolo del Vesuvio” PDO tomato: this is one of the oldest and most distinctive agricultural products in Campania, so much so that it is even depicted in the scene of the traditional Neapolitan nativity scene. For the purposes of safeguarding the product, it was found that the special feature common to Vesuvius cherry tomatoes is the ancient practice of preserving them ‘al piennolo’, i.e. a characteristic technique for tying a few bunches of ripe tomatoes together to form a large bunch that is then hung in ventilated rooms, thus ensuring optimal preservation until the end of the winter.

Cusano Mutri: The Giro tells me that According to historians, Cusano Mutri, the pearl of the Matese Regional Park, has roots dating back to the Samnite period. With the unification of Italy, Cusano acquired the appellation of “Mutri” and moved under the jurisdiction of the province of Benevento. Several bands of rebels were recorded in the area, which were formed to fight ”the Piedmontese invasion”. Today, Cusano, a renowned tourist destination, defined as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, welcomes visitors with its proverbial hospitality, its thousand-year-old history, its typical flavours and ancient traditions.

Giro specialties: None listed

The stage: What a place to start a race.

🏳️The start of Stage 10 has been given in the streets of Pompeii!#GirodItalia pic.twitter.com/BqlyMOV6Uv

— Giro d'Italia (@giroditalia) May 14, 2024

Another summit finish means that we all are expecting another Pogacar stage win.

That said, we would have attempted breaks and more conclusive breaks, because they had to try. There would be large groups, small groups, and groups with a real chance of winning the stage. 

Under 30 kilometers to go and here we were.

🏁 28 KM

1️⃣ 🚴‍♂️ < 5’30" < 🚴‍♂️🚴‍♂️🚴‍♂️💗🚗

🇸🇮 @JTratnik (TVL)
- 30"
🇫🇷 @RomainBardet (DSM)
🇫🇷 @Valent1_Paret (DAT)
🇮🇹 @AndreaBagioli (LTK)
🇮🇹 @frigomarco_ (IPT)#GirodItalia pic.twitter.com/qMcfnLO7Ki

— Giro d'Italia (@giroditalia) May 14, 2024

Tratnik would stay ahead. Six kilometers to go and he had 40 seconds over the nearest group. The yellow jersey group was 5 minutes behind.

Wow. Just when it looked like Tratnik would have the stage, Paret-Peintre flew by him. By him next was Bardet. What a way for Paret-Peintre to get his first professional win. Netx in, Bardet, gaining some gc time.

The wine: From 21014

 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso 'Gelsonero'
$25 at Biondivino:

From Biondivino: 80% Piedirosso and 20% Aglianico, organically grown: broad reddish-black color; smoky aroma with a hint of tar (notes I often find in red wines grown in volcanic soils); aroma and flavor of black fruit (blackberry, black cherry) and woody herbs (thyme, bay, rosemary); medium-weight but light on its feet. It is aged in puncheons for about a year. Drink now with red meats or cellar.

The food: The “Piennolo del Vesuvio” PDO tomato

Maybe time to order some seeds? 

You can also buy them canned from Gustiamo.  

Giro 2024 Stage 9: Avezzano to Napoli

Where are we? Heading from Abruzzo to Campagna.

Avezzano: Italia.it tells me that: If you are looking for a trip that combines culture and nature, Avezzano is the answer you are looking for. Millennia of history have passed through its center: the area has been inhabited since the Paleolithic. During the Roman domination, it attracted the attention of the emperor Claudius who in 41 AD ordered to build here an impressive hydraulic work. Even today you can walk, with guided tours, the Tunnels of Emperor Claudius, built to protect the houses from the floods of Lake Fucino.
Reach Piazza Risorgimento, the heart of the village, to admire the Marsi Cathedral and its splendid mosaics. Do not miss the opportunity to also visit the Orsini-Colonna Castle or Avezzano Castle, today home to the Pinacoteca di Arte Moderna, the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Pietraquaria and the Orthodox Church of San Giuseppe. In the garden of Villa Torlonia are exhibited traditional agricultural tools. Avezzano is located in a strategic position that will allow you to easily reach some of the most beautiful trekking routes of Abruzzo, within the Sirente Velino Regional Natural Park and the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park. Walk or bike through the Ring of the Lake. The most reckless can be launched by paragliding in the guided nature reserve Monte Salviano. 
Giro specialties:  None listed

Napoli: The Italian Tourist site has a feature with several 10,000 step walking tours of the city, which look like fun.  Their overview? Naples not only welcomes, but literally embraces all who visit: it is well-known for its warmth, not only in terms of the weather. Overlooking the sea and with Vesuvius in the background, Campania's capital city has a colorful centuries-old history, with countless monuments to admire. There is even plenty to explore underground, with organized tours of the labyrinth of tunnels that lie below the city. The gastronomic tourism here is unrivaled: ready to try the best pizza in the world?

Giro specialties: If any food should be associated with Naples, it would definitely be pizza: the classic and most famous “pizza Margherita”, topped with mozzarella cheese, tomatoes and a leaf of basil, has been joined by many new and refined “gourmet” recipes, recently in vogue and able to suit all tastes. Pizza, in Naples, is a “serious matter” and the job of “making it” is considered as pure art: that is why nothing is improvised, and its preparation is made of precise gestures and procedures, wisely handed down from one artisan to another. In fact, in 2017 the “art of Neapolitan pizza-makers” was declared “Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO, thereby recognising pizza’s cultural relevance and identity value as a “Neapolitan (quality) brand”.

However, visitors willing to enjoy the flavors of traditional Neapolitan cuisine must prepare to be spoilt for choice! Among other typical products, a very tasty one is “casatiello”, a sort of “rustic pie”, made of a dough mixed with pepper and lard and filled with eggs, salami and cheese, traditionally prepared for Easter.

Actually, even Neapolitan pastry offers plenty of delights; sweet lovers can not miss a stop in a traditional pastry-shop to taste one of the local delicacies: the famous “Babà”, offered by every café and restaurants, either in its classic rum-flavored recipe, or covered in custard, cream or chocolate; still, the traditional “Sfogliatella”, a pastry with a delicious filling of semolina, ricotta cheese, eggs, sugar, candied fruit cut into small pieces, either wrapped in a shell-shaped crunchy puff pastry (the so called “riccia”) or surrounded by a round-shape thick shortbread (“frolla”) Babà and Sfogliatella flavoured ice cream definitely deserves tasting too.

The stage: What should be a sprint stage into Napoli. One senses that many riders are very much looking forward to the rest day tomorrow. A two man break of Petroban and Maestri was up the road, in what everyone assumed would be a doomed effort. 

Under 50 kilometers to go and their gap was near a minute.

Eventually, we would have another group off the front, with Alaphilippe and others. He would keep trying, surging forward from that group as well with Costiou for company. Their gap was not large, but he would stick with it for a good distance. Under 10 kilometers to go and he had around 10 seconds. 

Their was the catch and an attack by Narvaez. 

After all that, a great and unexpected win for Olav Kooij.

The wine: From 2022 Marisa Cuomo Rosato

Back to Dig for this pink delight. They say: Cuomo’s tasty rosato blends 50% each Piedirosso and Aglianico, After a 10-12 hours maceration it ferments in controlled temperature stainless steel tanks and is aged four months in stainless steel. Pure red fruit scents, some herbaceous notes, crisp, mineral, savory. 

The food: Stage 9, the rest day is tomorrow. Time for a pizza! If you are motivated, this is our go-to dough recipe. 
 

Giro 2024 Stage 8: Spoleto to Prati di Tivo

Where are we? Leaving Umbria for Abruzzo

Spoleto: Umbria Tourism tells me that located in southeastern Umbria, Spoleto is one of the region's most fascinating art towns. Its wealth of history, varied cultural heritage and important arts events make it one of the tourist destinations most highly esteemed by visitors.

The historic center has maintained its medieval appearance, although traces of its Roman heritage are still visible. Spoleto's most ancient monuments are the Arch of Drusus and Germanicus, a Roman arch that led into the forum (now Piazza del Mercato), near the Romanesque Church of Sant'Ansano, the Roman theater, and the Basilica of San Salvatore, an interesting early Christian monument that goes back to the 4th-5th century. Not far away from the 13th-century Church of San Gregorio Maggiore, characterized by its suggestive apse area and the raised presbytery, are the triple-spanned Roman Bridge (or Ponte Sanguinario) made from blocks of travertine and the Amphitheater from the 2nd century AD. The town's greatest monument is the Duomo (Cathedral). Built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century, it was subsequently modified with the addition of a Renaissance portico to the façade, which is decorated with a large Byzantine-style mosaic (1207). Inside are many excellent works of art, including a fresco of the Madonna and Saints by Pinturicchio, the bronze bust of Urban VIII by Bernini, and an extraordinary fresco cycle by Filippo Lippi. The 12th-century Church of Sant'Eufemia is an interesting Romanesque building whose apse faces the stairs leading to Piazza Duomo, the Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo and the Church of San Ponziano. The Churches of San Domenico and San Nicolò and the Palazzo Comunale, or Town Hall, are instead from the 13th century. The Municipal Picture Gallery holds important works, including a Crucifix on canvas by an Umbrian artist (12th century), two frescoes by Spagna and a Mary Magdalene attributed to Guercino. Also of interest are the Church of San Paolo Inter Vineas (10th century), with an important cycle of 13th-century frescoes, and the Church of San Pietro, built in the 5th century, which has a splendid sculptured Romanesque façade decorated with exceptionally fine bas-reliefs.

Giro Specialties: 

Strangozzi (aka Strengozze or Stringozzi): a local type of pasta of very humble and ancient origins. Strangozzi owe their name to their shape, similar to the leather laces of a shoe, and are slightly thicker noodles than the traditional ones, with a flour-based dough and no eggs. Strangozzi are paired with simple, essential condiments: Spoleto oil first and foremost, but also fresh tomatoes and forest products such as wild asparagus, mushrooms and truffles.

Crescionda : among the many traditional sweets, Crescionda is undoubtedly the most typical cake of the Spoleto area, despite being rather unknown in the rest of the region. When cut, it is made up of three layers: the first, consisting of macaroons and flour, the second, a light central layer like vanilla pudding, made up of milk and eggs, and the third, dark-coloured layer consisting almost exclusively of chocolate.

Attorta : once prepared for the main festivities throughout the year, today this cake is mainly a Christmas or winter dish. The Attorta, known in other parts of Umbria as 'rocciata', is reminiscent of the more Nordic 'strudel' and is composed of a coil of pastry twisted on itself, filled with apples and other ingredients including sultanas, pine nuts, walnuts, chocolate and alkermes.

Castagnole : the dough for Castagnole is made of eggs, sugar, flour and lard, to which honey and mistrà are then added. They are also called sfrappe or fennel. Chestnuts get their name from their small, rounded shape, similar to that of chestnuts, and are fried in hot oil and then sprinkled with alchermes. They match perfectly with vin santo.

Prati di Tivo:  The local website tells me that: The charming mountain resort of Prati di Tivo is located within the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, in the municipality of Pietracamela, at the foot of the mountain known as "The Sleeping Giant" .

The name seems to derive from the term "retrivi meadows" , used in ancient times to identify the place and meant both its most extreme position at 1450 m above sea level , and the lateness of its harvests, due precisely to its position.

Prati di Tivo became a real tourist resort, ready to welcome numerous visitors, around the 1970s, with the construction of important hotel structures. The latter had the opportunity to arise thanks above all to the presence of the ski lifts which during the winter period attracted numerous visitors to the mountain resort of Teramo and also allowed, during the summer period, to bring all the enthusiasts and all those who they wanted to attempt the climb to the “Due Corni”

In addition, Life in Abruzzo suggests a delightful sounding walk. 
Giro Specialties:

The stage: Bumpy, with a summit finish!

There was an over 10-man break on the day, but they were not given a lot of rope. With 50 kilometers to go, their gap was only around 1:30. Their effort had been far from cohesive and they would split apart.

Under 30 kilometers and it was closer to a minute. It really did seem like things were setting up for another Pogacar stage win.

Within 10 kilometers to go and they were essentially all reeled in. 

And, indeed it would be Pogacar.

New GC:

The wine: Nicodemi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 08 $17.00   

A repost from 2011

They say: Fattoria Nicodemi is located in the Teramo district in Abruzzo, a hilly province bordering the Adriatic sea in central Italy. It was founded by Bruno Nicodemi, and today is run by brother and sister team Alessandro and Elena Nicodemi. High up in these chalky, clay-rich hills, the Nicodemi estate couldn't be better located—and any more different than bulk producers in the Abruzzo lowlands. The family's vineyards, at more than 900 feet above sea level, enjoy a slow cook, with warm afternoons and cool evenings. “We try to work in a simple way,” says Elena, to let the estate's terroir speak clearly; all field work, including the harvest, is done by hand. Their Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo wines represent fruit-forward, single-varietal bottlings that are both rich in flavor and represent great value.

The food: Crescionda, from the regional tourist site:

• 3 eggs
• 80g of flour 00
• 80g of sugar
• 100g of grated dark pebbles
• 500ml of whole milk
• 100g of amaretto biscuit
• 20gr of unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
• Grated zest of 1 lemon

• In a bowl, beat the eggs together with the sugar
   
• Add the cinnamon powder and the bitter cocoa and continue to mix the mixture with a whisk.
   
• Add the grated zest of a lemon and the grated dark chocolate.
   
• Add the flour and the shredded macaroons.
   
• Finally, gradually add the milk until get a fairly liquid compound. Let's pour it into a pan with a diameter of 24cm previously covered with parchment paper.
   
• Bake in a ventilated oven at 180 ° C for 25-30 minutes.
   
• Take it out of the oven and let it cool completely before taking it out of the mold. If possible, leave the Spoleto crescionda to rest for at least one night in the refrigerator before serving.
   
• Decorate the surface with macaroons or unsweetened cocoa powder.

Giro 2024 Stage 7: Foligno to Perguia

Where are we? Time trialing in Umbria

Foligno: Lying halfway between the more renowned Perugia and Assisi, the city is an excellent destination, all round. Strategically located as a major road and railway hub, the city expanded repeatedly over time, and even grew outside the old town centre in the modern age, towards the surrounding plains. 

Giro Specialties: Foligno retains much of its culinary traditions, following the seasonal cycles and the agricultural production.

The town offers pleasant and tasty occasions to the lovers of local cuisine thanks to its simple, excellent products, often hard to find elsewhere. Foligno’s agricultural produce retains its exquisite authenticity, such as Cave beans, ‘Gobbi’ (cardoons), heart tomatoes and the particular fragrance and scent of local extra virgin olive oil obtained from the moraiolo variety typical of this area.
Multi-flower honey is also produced here from the nectar of several botanical species: sunflower, chestnut, acacia, etc.
In the Colfiorito plateau, agriculture has survived thanks to the specialisation of its products, such as the red potato, dairy products, typical cereals such as spelt and original legumes like lentils and chickling peas.
Foligno’s signature dishes are: Strangozzi with truffle, Tagliatelle and gnocchi with mutton, Pigeon Foligno style, Trout from Menotre in porchetta, Cheese pizza with salami, Lentils and red potatoes from Colfiorito.
A delight for the palate and a local speciality is the Rocciata, a typical pastry from Foligno, consisting of a thin sheet of dough made from wheat flour that envelops a mixture of walnuts, sugar, olive oil and apples, to which other ingredients such as alkermes, cocoa, sultanas, dried figs, cinnamon and pine nuts can be added according to the confectioners’ taste or imagination.

Perugia:  The New York Times tells me that Perguia is one of Italy's most underrated destinations. The local tourist board says: Mighty Etruscan centre and important mediaeval city after that, Perugia guards lovingly precious traces of its luminous historical periods. The city is today the administrative and cultural capital of the Umbria Region, a major tourist and cultural destination, site of the University for over 700 years. The historical Academy of Fine Arts, the Music Conservatorium, and its University for Foreigners, with students coming from all over the world, define furthermore the marked international vocation.

Culturally and socially bright and lively, Perugia is a city full of “secrets” to disclose: the suggestion is to explore it with curiosity to fully appreciate the excitement and fascination of discovery.

Giro Specialties: The Torcolo di San Costanzo is a typical doughnut-shaped cake from Perugia, which is prepared for the feast day of Saint Costanzo, one of the city’s patron saints, whose martyrdom is commemorated on 29 January. In the 16th century, on the saint’s feast day, wealthy congregations bought large quantities of Torcolo to be distributed to the poor. It also seems that a pretty serious competition was held between the city’s bakers, whose products were then offered to passers-by. Today, on the occasion of the patron saint’s day, Borgo XX Giugno – the street in the immediate vicinity of the Church dedicated to the saint – hosts the historic Fiera Grande, an exhibition market with stands selling typical products and handicrafts, while in Corso Vannucci, in front of Palazzo dei Priori, and in the Monteluce district, slices of Torcolo prepared by the city’s bakers and confectioners are distributed.

The stage: Time for a time trial.

I don't want to say that I don't find a time trial at this stage of the race compelling, but, well, it was a nice morning for a walk.

With the gc favorites heading in, our unexpected leader was Ganna at 52:01.

A wind shift seemed to have slowed everyone down a bit, so that time was looking like it very well might hold. 

Much later, Pogacar seemed to be putting time into Thomas. Make that a lot of time.

In fact, G would drop from second to third on the race. 

Indeed, Pogacar would take the stage. Deep sigh.

The wine: From 2017

Bea 07 Pipparello from Dig 
If it is Umbria it must be time for a Bea wine.  

From Italian Wine Merchants
As with all of Paolo Bea's wines, the estate uses non-interventionist techniques to grow grapes for its Montefalco Riserva Pipparello--a blend of about 60 percent Sangiovese with the rest split evenly between indigenous Umbrian grapes Montepulciano and Sagrantino. This natural wine is traditional in spirit, undergoing a long and unusual maceration of six weeks, extended aging in large neutral casks and delivered to market with additional bottle aging for approachability. Offering aromas of ripe blackberry layered with black pepper and licorice, this wine offers a soft, structured palate with a distinct streak of acidity and notes of ripe Morello cherry, blackcurrant, game, truffles and baked earth. An exceptional vintage in Umbria, this ’07 Montefalco Riserva Pipparello presents immediate drinkability combined with age-worthiness; soft, round, herbaceous and juicy, it’s a delicious bottle from one of IWM’s favorite cult producers.

The food:  Umbrian lentils

From Market Hall foods: In the hills of southern Umbria, the Bartolini family have been growing olives, grains, and what they call pulses (legumes) since the 1850's. Their lentils are famous throughout Italy and beyond for their outstanding color, texture, & flavor. Pale brown and tan in color, the crops of Umbrian lentils are actually quite small, so the demand often outweighs the supply.
The fabled Castelluccio lentils are not a protected DOP product - this means the Italian government hasn't yet clamped down on imposters and refined the market to include only the authentic lentils of Castelluccio.  The tiny tiny tiny town in Umbria called Castelluccio simply can't produce enough lentils for the world's demand. That said, these lentils are the same variety, but we cannot attest to their exact origin.