Yes, Boo Berry. For K's upcoming cereal bar post. |
$32.99 from 67Wine
From 67Wine: Kuenhof, owned by Peter and Brigitte Pliger, is one of the best white wine estates in Italy. Their steep, stony vineyards are in the part of the South Tyrol called the Val d'Isarco (or Eisacktal), not far from the border with Austria. They grow Sylvaner, Veltliner and Riesling organically, and their wines show an almost electric mineral character. If the duty of a great wine is to be distinctive, these wines stand out like beacons -- great terroir, careful grape-growing, brilliant winemaking, and extraordinary wines.
From importer Oliver McCrum Wines:
Kuenhof, owned by Peter and Brigitte
Pliger, is one of the best white wine estates in Italy. Their steep,
stony vineyards are in the part of the South Tyrol called the Val
d'Isarco (or Eisacktal), not far from the border with Austria. They grow
Sylvaner, Veltliner and Riesling organically, and their wines show an
almost electric mineral character. If the duty of a great wine is to be
distinctive, these wines stand out like beacons -- great terroir,
careful grape-growing, brilliant winemaking, and extraordinary wines.
Most of the winegrowing
in the area known as the Alto Adige (also known as ‘Südtirol’ in the
German spoken by the locals) is along the Strada di Vino, just south of
Bolzano. The Eisacktal is a separate, very small appellation about half
an hour north-east of Bolzano, on the way to the Brenner Pass and
Austria. The climate is different here, Continental rather than the
Mediterranean found around Bolzano, most of the vineyards are at high
altitude (in the case of Kuenhof, between 1,800 and 2,300 feet above sea
level), and the soils at Kuenhof are very distinctive, containing
schist, quartz phyllite, lots of stones, and morainic layers of crushed
rock. The vineyards are terraced, exposed to the south-east, and quite
steep. The most recent plantings are in an area that Peter identified as
being famous for grape-growing a century ago, but that had fallen into
disuse, perhaps because the monetary investment (to repair terraces) and
time was too great. Density is high, at 8,000 plants per hectare.
'Kuenhof' is a farmhouse
that dates from the 12th century. Just south of the town of Brixen/Bressanone, it was for centuries owned by the Bishop of
Bressanone, and then for the last 200 years it has been in the family of
the current owners. Until 1989 the grapes were taken to the Abbazia di
Novacella, in nearby Neustift. In 1990 the Pligers started making their
own wines in the cellar under the farmhouse.
The Pligers farm
organically, tending towards the biodynamic approach but not in fact
biodynamic. The grapes are picked in October, sometimes as late as the
end of October. The wines are fermented using only indigenous yeasts
(which take between a month and four months to finish the fermentation),
aged in stainless steel and acacia-wood (30%) vessels, and bottled
shortly before the following harvest. All the wines are bottled under
screwcap, which means that each bottle will taste the way the winemaker
intended. (Pliger is proud of his switch to screwcaps.)The Pliger’s Riesling vines were brought in from France, Germany and other producers in the Alto Adige. Riesling is now making a name for itself in Italy, and Pliger's 'Kaiton' bottling is one of the best. Lime-peel, flowers, petrol and an almost electric mineral character make this wine very exciting to drink; I am reminded of licking a nine-volt battery as a dare when I was younger. Bright balance of acidity and fruit. The name Kaiton is of Celtic origin, and was the name for the area around the estate.
I say: Screw cap! I don't open many of those during the Giro. The grape that I tend to miss the most during this project is Riesling. Not that there are not Italian Rieslings, but many of them are just not that satisfying. Very pale straw in color. Some petrol, citrus and green on the nose. Lots of minerals and some flowers as well. Held up and was very nice on day two.
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