Monday, July 10, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 9: Saint Leonard de Noblat to Puy de Dome

Where are we? Traveling from the Haut Vienne to the Auvergne.

Saint Leonard de Noblat: The local tourist site tells me that Saint-Léonard de Noblat, between Limoges and Lake Vassivière, is a city to live and discover, between architecture and know-how , festive traditions and nature ... A remarkable heritage site , its historic heart reveals preserved buildings and makes the object of protection and enhancement in the public interest. A stopover on the way to Compostela (Voie de Vézelay), its Romanesque collegiate church has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the “Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle in France”. City of Raymond Poulidor, famous cycling champion, it is a member of the network of the 100 Most Beautiful Detours of France and allows its gastronomic specialties to be appreciated, Marzipan and Limousin beef.

Regional Specialties: marzipan (macaroons), candied prunes, Limousin cow.

Puy de Dome: Time for a volcano. From the regional tourism site: The Puy de Dôme is the highest peak of the Chaîne des Puys - Limagne Fault tectonic hotspot, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in July 2018. It offers visitors a breathtaking 360° viewpoint. breath on the 80 volcanoes of various shapes aligned over 45 km long and 5 km wide... 
MAJOR SITE IN FRANCE, the puy de Dôme is both protected and developed. This symbolic place steeped in history can be visited throughout the year. The trails that run through it and its altitude of 1465 m make it a real escape ground, on earth as in the sky.
Before leaving for the Puy de Dôme, how can you be sure that the view will be clear? Two webcams installed by the Clermont-Ferrand Globe Physics Observatory continuously film the view from the top of the Puy de Dôme, and the Puy de Dôme from the Cézeaux campus. Images are refreshed every 10 minutes.

Regional Specialties: truffade, Auvergne gastronomy.


Christian Prudhomme says:
There’s no doubt that the emotion of the return to the Puy de Dôme 35 years on from the last visit will stimulate the appetite of the most aggressive climbers. The rugged Auvergne terrain will have sapped the juice from the legs of the contenders long before they tackle this formidable and majestic summit. Over the final four kilometres, at the end of a day with 3,600 metres of vertical gain, the average gradient is close to 12%.

The stage:
Turns out helping someone move out of the country takes your whole weekend. Regularly scheduled programming will return on Tuesday. 

The Wine:
Henri Chauvet, Contre-Nature VDF Red 2022
From an importer: Henri moved to Auvergne in 2021 to begin his new dream of making natural wine after a career in banking and insurance. He studied under Jerome Bressy of Gourt de Mautens and Thierry Allemand before starting his own label. His goal is to make non-dogmatic natural wine that expresses the varied terroir of Auvergne. By taking over the estate of Annie Sauvat in Boudes Henri has been able to hit the ground running with an already active winery. The domaine is 10.5 hectares in Boudes planted with Gamay (60%), Pinot Noir (30%), and Chardonnay (10%). This area once counted hundreds of hectares and these days is down to around forty hectares of vines. The steep slopes contain a wide variety of soils: volcanic lava flows and ash, a rainbow of marls, and limestone outcroppings. The oldest vines on the property were planted in 1987. The property is currently undergoing organic conversion. Lulu the horse helps with soil management. Mechanical work is difficult given the gradient of the hillsides. All wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered. Each plot and each variety is vinified separately and all wines are whole bunch. Sulfur use varies wine to wine, depending on what Henri feels is necessary.

The food: Marzipan
The regional tourist site sent me to a recipe here.
The marzipan recipe

Ingredients for about thirty marzipans:

  • 250g whole blanched almonds
  • 250g sugar
  • 3 egg whites
  • a little icing sugar
  • a few drops of bitter almond extract (optional)

1- Preheat the oven to 180°.

2- Grind the almonds finely with half the sugar (this will prevent oil from being obtained).

3- In a bowl, beat the egg whites with a fork, until they become frothy.

4- Mix with the sweet marzipan obtained and the rest of the sugar. Add the bitter almond extract.

5- Then place cylinders of the dough with a pastry bag or using two tablespoons.

6- Sprinkle with icing sugar and put the marzipans in the oven for 15 minutes. Watch the cooking closely, they should not brown too much.

7- Take the marzipans out of the oven and let them cool down before serving them.

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