Sunday, July 21, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 21: Monaco to Nice


Where are we? Ending in an unusual place, due to the Olympics. 

Monaco: From their tourist site: For 150 years, Monaco has been welcoming the most discerning travellers. Nestling between the sea and the mountains, this unique country has mastered the fine art of constantly reinventing itself, while remaining true to its core DNA. With a comprehensive offering that includes everything from pioneering new concepts to world-famous historic establishments, the Principality is a hallmark of excellence and unique experiences. From incredible food and world-class sporting events, to amazing nightlife, luxury shopping, and soothing spas, you'll find everything your heart could possibly desire packed into Monaco’s two square kilometres. Though modest in size, our little country is home to a world of possibilities. Monaco makes every experience unique. So unique, you won’t find it anywhere else. There’s a reason the Principality has so much to offer: nowhere else has mastered the art of hospitality quite like this. So browse away, be inspired, then write your very own Mediterranean story.

Le Tour specialties: barbagiuan (ravioli)

Christian Prudhomme says:  Everyone remembers the last occasion the Tour finished with a time trial, when Greg LeMond stripped the yellow jersey from the shoulders of Laurent Fignon on the Champs-Élysées in 1989, by just eight seconds. Thirty-five years on, we can but dream of a similar duel, involving two or three riders, an authentic athletic confrontation whose outcome would determine the final podium of the 111th edition, and the first to finish far from its familiar Parisian setting, the ultimate finale destined for Place Masséna, just a few pedal-strokes from the Promenade des Anglais.

The stage: This is an unusual end to the race. Not only are we not sprinting down the Champs Elysees, but we are not in Paris at all due to the Olympics. Plus, we are finishing with a time trial, so no ceremonial goodbye for Mark Cavendish and other riders doing their last Tour. 
Though one could argue that the past few days have been as much about a farewell as about the suffering for Cav. He even has some very special shoes. I could go on and on, but instead will say that I will miss his riding, interviews and all very much and that I hope retirement in whatever form it takes, is joyful.
Lanterne rouge for Cav!
Just one more.        
A reminder that this still is a race day and that riders will want the stage win. There are some close times in the top 10 and keeping or improving their spots matters. 
Lenny Martinez would spend a lot of time in the hot seat at 48:24.
Next in that seat, Tejada at 48:14.
Crash Jorgenson, but he would be back up quickly.
A final Tour ride today for Bardet as well.
And finally, the top 3 were on the road.
Not surprisingly, Evenepoel had the best time at the first time check. But Vingegaard was even better, by 19 seconds. 
Next to reach that spot, Pogacar and he was even faster.
Wow, Evenepoel had an amazing time at the next time check, but Vingegaard was again better. But, again, Pogacar was faster.
Briefly into first at the finish, Gee. Jorgenson even faster. 
Through the last check and Pogacar was by far the fastest.
46:30 for Evenepoel. For Vingegaard, 46:27. And finally, 45:24  for Pogacar. 


The wine:  Robert Barbichon Rosé de Saignee from Copake Wine Works 
100% pinot noir

When Christy suggests rosé Champagne to finish things off, all I can say is yes.

From an importer: Champagne Robert Barbichon represents four generations worth of work in the Côte des Bar. Recent history has not been kind to this somewhat far flung region of Champagne, although prior to the 19th century the region was a fairly important source of wine. Robert Barbichon is now in the very capable hands of Robert’s two sons, Thomas & Maxime, who after learning viticulture and winemaking from their father took over duties at the family estate. They have since pushed the envelope on farming by quickly converting to organic practices and are since 2005 have been practicing biodynamics in all of the family holdings.

VINEYARDS…

The Barbichons hold a total of 9 hectares of vines across the Côte des Bar, most of which lie in Gyé-sur-Seine along with plots in the neighboring Courteron as well as just up the Seine river in Celles-sur-Ource. A large portion of their vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir, about six and half hectares, the rest is planted to Chardonnay, about 1 hectare, Pinot Meunier, just shy of a hectares worth and about half a hectare of Pinot Blanc. The overall average age of their vineyards are about 30 years.



The food: Barbagiuan
Hello Monaco had a recipe. 
For the pastry
200g plain flour
dash salt
50ml olive oil
1 egg, beaten
50ml water
Vegetable oil for deep frying

For the filling
15ml olive oil
30g onion, finely chopped
3og leek (white part only)finely chopped
2 Swiss chard leaves (green parts only), shredded
and chopped
50g fresh spinach, chopped
pinch dried oregano, crumbled
50g ricotta cheese
30g freshly-grated Parmesan cheese
1 egg white, beaten

Sift the flour and salt into a bowl.
Add the olive oil and half the egg white and blend with a fork. Reserve the rest of the egg for the filling.
Add just enough water to bring the pastry together as a firm dough.
Turn this out onto a lightly-floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic (about 5 min).
Wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a shallow pan over medium heat and add the onion and leek and fry until golden (about 5 minutes).
Add the chard, spinach and oregano and fry until the chard is tender (about 10 minutes).
Transfer the contents of the skillet to a bowl and then mix in the cheeses and the leftover egg from the pastry.
Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool.

Roll the dough out on a lightly floured work surface to about 2mm thick.
Use a floured 6cm round pastry cutter and cut into as many rounds as you can.
Gather the scraps, re-roll out and cut again. You should end up with about 20 circles.
Place 1 tsp of the filling in the centre of each pastry round and brush the edges with the egg white.
Fold the dough over to form a semi-circle and press the edges with the ends of a fork to seal.
As you complete each pastry, transfer to a baking tray lined with foil.
Note: at this stage you can freeze the pasties and then thaw before cooking, or you can cook them right away.
Pour vegetable oil into a deep pan (you need at least 4cm) and heat to fry.
Working in batches, add the pasties to the oil and fry until brown and crisp (about 5 minutes).
Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towels using a slotted spoon.
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Saturday, July 20, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 20: Nice to Col de la Couillole


Where are we? On the coast! In the Alpes Maritime. 

Nice: From the local tourist site: The city of Nice is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its beauty, history, architecture and natural spaces.: Indeed, the capital of the French Riviera has seen the four letters of its name inscribed on the World Heritage List as “Riviera Winter Resort City”. At a glance, you can see why it is called “Nissa La Bella”.
Explore this exceptional urban ensemble of 522 hectares. The perimeter includes :
  • The entire coastline, from the Promenade des Anglais to the foot of Mont Boron. All this while passing by the Quai des États-Unis, the Quai Rauba Capeù, and the Port of Nice.
  • The must-sees: Place Masséna, Colline du Château and Quai des Ponchettes.
  • The heart of Nice with the pedestrian zone, the Carré d’Or and its luxury boutiques, the musicians’ district, Avenue Jean Médecin, and the Promenade du Paillon, a veritable green lung in the city centre.
  • The Libération district, its fish market. Visit also the Gare du Sud, a place of life and festivity that nestles behind a sublime historical façade.
  • The listed area also includes some exceptional gems. Among them, the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, the Cimiez hills, its arenas, and its sublime gardens.

Le Tour Specialties: pissaladière, fougasse, socca, brissaouda, tapenade, salade niçoise, pan bagnat, porchetta, trulle, ratatouille, daube niçoise, bellet (wine)

Col de la Couillole: Here we are at another ski resort. 

Le Tour specialties: Mercantour cheeses (carline, miche gavotte, tommes). Specialities from Nice.

Christian Prudhomme says: The Paris-Nice regulars will be racing over familiar terrain, but that won’t make things any easier if the contest for the Yellow Jersey is still raging, particularly over such a short distance. Battle could commence as early as the climb to the Col de Braus. There will then be no respite on the climbs of the Cols de Turini, de la Colmiane and finally de la Couillole, the final ascent extending for 15.7km at an average gradient of 7.1%. We’ll all be holding our breath!

The stage: Another day with quite a battle to form the break. Not a surprise as it will be the final break of the race and 10 teams have yet to win a stage: Ineos Grenadiers, Red Bull-Bora-Hansgrohe, Lidl-Trek, Bahrain Victorious, Movistar, Groupama-FDJ, Decathlon-AG2R, Israel-Premier Tech, Uno-X, Cofidis.
The start had been, well, chaotic. There were splits in the yellow jersey group, with only 17 riders left in that group and only 3 out front. That trio consisted of Armirail, Kelderman and Mas.
As they continued, the yellow jersey group reformed with 40 or so riders.
There would be more attackers as they climbed and Champoussin would be dropped. Eventually the two front groups would merge, leaving 7 at the front. 
They would be joined by Stuyven, Geniets, and Johannessen.
The group of 10 would continue and with just over 30 kms to go would have almost 3 minutes on the main peloton.
I admit that I am humming to myself "The final mountain" to the tune of the Final Countdown.
As the climbed, the gc group sped up and the break started to fall apart. Only 20 were left in the gc group.
In front, Carapaz and Mas. There were only 12 riders left in the gc group.
They were down to 6 in the gc group: Landa, Evenepoel, Vingegaard, Pogačar, Almeida, and Jorgenson. When would Evenepoel attack? The gap to the front dup was only 1:30.
Finally, Evenepoel, But there would be a regrouping. Landa would drop from the group. Five kms to go and it was at a minute. Together again, Vingegaard and Pogačar, who would soon reach Carapaz and Mas. Mas would drop, as would Carapaz.
Sigh. Pogacar with ease.



The wine: Clos Saint-Joseph Cotes de Provence Blanc de Blancs 2019
From the importer: Roch Sassi farms limestone slopes along the banks of the Var river about thirty minutes north of Nice, where commanding peaks tower over the little village of Villars-sur-Var. Like a cross between Provence and Savoie, the climate—and the wines he produces—marry both Mediterranean and Alpine influences. In Roch's white, a blend of Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon, and Clairette, you'll find lovely sun-ripened fruit and a fleshy texture, true to its southern origins. And yet the precision, freshness, and minerality (and alcohol content!) are more reminiscent of whites from further north, where the Alps exert their cool, crystalline influence on local wines. Roch has a truly unique terroir, and his methods allow it to come through in full. Organic and biodynamic farming, native yeast fermentation, aging in neutral vessels... There is complexity and class, and even the capacity to age and evolve for a few years. This jewel is unlike any Provençal white you'll encounter, and it will leave you salivating and in awe.

The food: Socca!
A personal favorite. I have used this recipe with great success, but essentially chickpea flour, water, oil and herbs or spices cooked in a hot pan.  You can make it a bit fancier with toppings or add ins or keep it very simple. Either way, I find ti hard to wait for it to cool enough to eat. 
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Friday, July 19, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 19: Embrun to Isola 2000


Where are we? In the Haute Alpes and the Alpes Maritimes

Embrun: From the local travel site, with some help from Google translate:
The town of Embrun is nestled on its rock and is open to the valley of the Durance.
Its origins are Celtic, its name indicates its topographical location: Embrun comes from Eburodunum, Ebur: water and Dunum: elevation.
Capital of the Maritime Alps under the Roman Empire, it became the seat of a bishopric from the 4th century onwards, and from an archbishopric in the 12th century. The arrow of Notre-Dame du Réal Cathedral, the lions' porch and the Treasury of the Prince-Archbishops are the witnesses of this rich religious past. Its colorful streets and its sunny squares, welcome you for moments of relaxation and pleasure.
Ideally located on Serre-Ponçon, the town offers a multitude of mountain activities, discover nearby, the fauna and flora of the Ecrins National Park. But also nautical activities on the Durance, the lake of Embrun and of course the lake of Serre-Ponçon.

Le Tour specialties: honey, trout farming, cheeses, game, fruit jam tarts, apples from the Alpes de Haute-Durance (Golden)

Isola 2000: Another stage, another mountain resort. Their website tells me that: The village of Isola offers a different aspect of the Tinée valley. Located in the upper valley, it has the characteristic features of a mountain village. The barns, built with materials found on site, denote a more rigorous climate. The Isolians lived in virtual autonomy, pioneers of the circular economy. Water is omnipresent in Isola. As evidenced by the numerous fountains , the wash house located in the old town but also the dam located on the Tinée. This water was not only a source of well-being. It was the cause of numerous inconveniences, in particular the floods caused by the overflowing of the Vallon de Chastillon which was not without consequences for the village. 
Indeed, the Saint-Pierre bell tower , in the Lombard style located at the entrance to the village, is the only survivor of this difficult period and therefore arouses curiosity because its church was swept away by the waters, as was the old village. 
Set off to discover the chestnut grove which was the main food resource for the Isolians who held a virtual monopoly on production in the county of Nice. It is now winter tourism that has made the town famous today with the Isola 2000 resort.

Le Tour specialties: Vacherie de Chastillon (cheese and charcuterie), Mercantour cheeses (carline, miche gavotte, tommes). Specialities from Nice. 

Christian Prudhomme says:  The menu for this ultra-mountain stage could well make you dizzy, but it’ll also whet the appetite of the very best climbers. Although the stage is less than 150km long, the riders will climb above 2,000 metres on three occasions, the biggest test the climb to the summit of La Bonette, the highest road in France at an altitude of 2,802 metres. Its 360-degree panorama is breath-taking.


The stage: Would there be gc changes today? It was tome to find out.
Our break of the day had some familar names As they continued, that rgoup would shrink to six: Jorgenson, Kelderman, Carapaz, Yates, Hindley and Rodriguez.  On they went, with Jorgenson getting a solo lead. He was chased byCarapaz. With 10 kms to go, about 3 minutes behind them was a very small gc group. 
From that group, to the surprise of no one, an attack by Pogacar. He really has been riding at a different level. A reminder though, that Vingegaard is still recovering from injuries this spring. Would Pogacar reach the front and take the stage?
Behind, Evenepoel would attack, but Vingegaard was able to stay with him. 
Ahead, Pogacar reached Yates, only Jorgenson was ahead. Wow did Pogacar go by fast. It was no longer a question of the stage win, it was just a matter of how much he would win by.  Evenepoel and Vingegaard would come in together. 


The wine: Riviera Ligure di Ponente Rossese “Vigneto Isasco”
From Copake Wine Works 

The food: Since there was a mention of a chestnut grove. Chestnut cake (Turinois)

Ingredients:

  • 500 g chestnuts
  • 100 g chocolate
  • 100 g sugar
  • 100 g butter

Slit the chestnuts.
Boil them 40 min in water.
Leave them in the water while you peel off both skins and mash them with the mouli-grater.
Melt the chocolate with the butter; add the sugar and then the chestnut purée.
Grease a rectangular cake tin.
Pour the mixture into the tin and leave in fridge for 24h before cooking

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Thursday, July 18, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 18: Gap to Barcelonnette


Where are we? In the Haute Alps and Alpes de Haute-Provence

Gap: A tourist website tells me that: Gap is located in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur in the midst of rich and unspoiled nature, at the southwest end of the Ecrins National Park. Gap in the Middle Ages was an important trading center, at the intersection of several channels of communication. It was also a stop for pilgrims to Santiago arriving from Italy and joining Arles.
Gap is now the main town in the Southern Alps, and also bishop and prefecture of the Hautes-Alpes, where the Christian life is closely linked to the nearby Shrine of Notre-Dame du Laus. 
Above the village of Saint-Étienne-le-Laus, in May 1664, the Virgin Mary appeared to a shepherd. May 4, 2008, was proclaimed the official recognition of the Marian apparitions of Notre-Dame du Laus, in the presence of thirty cardinals and bishops from around the world, marking the importance of this event for the Church.

Le Tour specialties: Tourton du Champsaur (potato and fromage frais fritters), Oreilles d'âne (fresh pasta and spinach gratin), Ravioles of Champsaur, chèvre salée (goat's cheese stew).

Barcelonnette: The regional tourist site tells me that this is rhe most Mexican of French towns.  It introduces that taste of being abroad that you are sure to enjoy when discovering Barcelonnette. Allow yourself be surprised by its atypical villas, its lively squares full of charm and its historic centre full of warm, welcoming colours.
You are sure to love its pedestrianised centre, which is full of good restaurants, its varied shops and, of course, the surprising "Mexican" villas, a legacy of an era that has left an indelible mark on the town. Barcelonnette welcomes you and encourages you to stroll around and discover its past.
The history of Barcelonnette is closely linked to the Americas: in the 19th century, several thousand residents left for the adventures of Mexico. The town has preserved its impressive architectural heritage dating from that period and this is clearly evidenced in the numerous villas. These beautiful bourgeois residences were commissioned by the emigrants who returned to their homeland once their fortune was made, and they are testament to the deep-running links that Barcelonnette continues to have with Mexico.The city has a Mexican air around it, which is both surprising and instantly seductive. Barcelonnette will take you on a journey through its unusual architecture. It hums and vibrates to the rhythm of events that sees it decked out in Mexican colours and offers the opportunity to savour various gastronomic specialities reminiscent of previous times in Barcelonnette.

Le Tour specialties: Ubaye ravioles, tourtons, cheeses. Donkey's ears. Genepi.

Christian Prudhomme says:   Apparently he had nothing to say about this stage. 


The stage: A day for the break? Maybe, so it was another hard start to thing.
Eventually, another large break that would get a very large gap. The main gc group was more than 10 minutes behind, so it was clear that the winner would come from the break. That led to a lot of attacking within that bunch as ther road up and down.
Plus, scenery Personally, I was hoping for Kwiatkowski. As they closed in, he was at the front.
In fact, the leading trio of Kwiatkowski, Campenaerts and Vercher was starting to look better and better. Under 20 kms to go and they had 30 seconds.
At the end, it would be Campenaerts. A nice win for him, though I was disappointed. 
Then it would be time for the long wait for the GC group.


The wine: Domaine Hauvette Les Baux de Provence Rose Petra 2021
From the importer: Not far from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, a tourist town known for Roman ruins and as the place where Van Gogh painted “The Starry Night,” you’ll find Domaine Hauvette. Nestled among the foothills of Les Alpilles, the vines are surrounded by a rocky and wild landscape—the clay and limestone soil retains moisture for the arid summer months, the Mistral blows half the year, and garrigue is seemingly everywhere. It is here that in the early 1980s Dominique Hauvette, seeking more sunshine, left her job as a lawyer in the Savoie, re-discovered her passion for raising horses, and began studying oenology. Thirty-some years later and Dominique now has 17 hectares of vines and an international reputation for making benchmark natural wines.

The food: Tourton from Marmiton 
300 g of flour
3 eggs
50 g melted butter
3 tablespoons of oil
50 g of fresh tomme (or Gervais square)
750 g potatoes cooked in water
150 g thinly sliced white leeks
25 g shallots (or onions)
Pepper
Salt

Step 1
Knead flour, eggs, a little oil, melted butter , salt to obtain a dough neither too soft (add flour) nor too hard (add water). Let the dough rest in a ball.
2nd step
Sauté the leeks on low heat with the shallots and butter. 
Step 3
Crush the potatoes land in puree , salt and pepper, to taste a little oil. Add leeks and shallots. Sprinkle over the tomme cool and knead everything to make a homogeneous stuffing.
Step 4
Spread the dough with the roll (quite finely). Cut it into squares of 6 or 7 cm side, arrange on half of the squares of stuffing then cover with another square of dough. Weld the edges well, if necessary by lightly moistening them.
Step 5
Fry on both sides with deep frying. The oil should not be too hot.
Step 6
Serve immediately.
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Wednesday, July 17, 2024

Tour de France 2024: Stage 17 Saint Paul Trois Chateaux to Superdevoluy

Where are we? Heading from the Drome to the Haute Alpes

Saint Paul Trois Chateaux: The tourist website tells me that:  Saint-Paul-Trois-Chateaux is a town in the Drôme next to Suze-la-Rousse and Pierrelatte. Belonging to the Rhône Alpes region, it is situated on the left bank of the Rhône River.  Saint-Paul-Trois-Chateaux enjoys a privileged environment and geographic situation.You absolutely must visit the House of the Truffle and the Tricastin as well as the Tricastin Archaeological Museum.
Amongst the events and festivities not to be missed are the Musicales en Tricastin music festival, the farmers' market that takes place on the 1st and 3rd Sundays of each month and the truffle market open from mid-December to mid-March where, in addition to buying the most beautiful truffles, you can enjoy truffle ravioli accompanied by the region's famous wines."

Le Tour specialties:  Tricastin black truffle. AOC Grignan-les-Adhémar wines, Eyguebelle syrups, olive oil, lavender.

Superdevoluy: It must be another ski resort. Plus an observatory: The NOEMA antennas form IRAM's millimetre radio astronomy observatory. These 12 antennae, each 15 metres in diameter, form the most powerful radio telescope in the northern hemisphere, using interferometry. It is located on the Bure plateau, at an altitude of 2,552m. The observatory cannot be visited, and access requires knowledge of the mountains and good physical fitness (there are no roads). 

Le Tour specialties:  Dévoluy lamb, tourtons, gratin dauphinois, tarte des Alpes. Ewe's milk cheeses, herbal teas, beer.

Christian Prudhomme says:  As the race homes in on the southern Alps, there will be no significant obstacles crossing the Drôme. The tests beyond that, though, are likely to encourage the formation of a large breakaway group, whose members will have a chance to shine, assuming they can deal with the climbs in the final 40 kilometres. We’ll get a clearer idea of this on the ascent of the Col Bayard, although the final selection should be made on the Col du Noyer (7.5km at 8.4%), with the final decision coming on the approach to the Superdévoluy ski station.


The stage: A day for the breakaway? Likely, given how intense things were right away with a fight to get into the breakaway. 
Le Tour's social media team speaks for me.

There would be attacks and counter attacks. As they closed in, we had two big name riders at the front.
Carapaz would take the lead and his gap looked to be growing.
Behind, attacking from the gc group, an attack from Pogacar.  Evenepoel was chasing, but Vingegaard was clearly struggling. Would he lose significant time?
He would get help from a teammate who would help pace him back up to Evenepoel and as a group they would catch Pogacar.
Up front, Carapaz was closing in on the stage win. 
Behind, Evenepoel had surged forward, reaching a teammate, Hirt, that we had forgotten was still up the road. Vingegaard and Pogacar both also had teammates helping. Team strategy!
Evenepoel would take a little bit of time.




The wine: Gael Petit Tavel La Comde des Rieu Rose 2020
Christy says: Gorgeous, bold, gloriously rolly polly, silky, sunny rose. Reminds me of my first sips of Eric Pfifferling's L'Anglore. Like that wine, this one was also love at first sip. Is it inexpensive? No it's not. But it ranks up there with the handful of roses for which I would happily pay $40. It's delicious now, with a couple years of age, but if you have the patience or the foresight, get a couple extra bottles and store them away for a while.


The food: Tarte des Alpes 
 Time to make a blueberry tart. 
Saveur tells me that "Growing wild in the mountains of the French Alps, myrtilles are similar to wild blueberries and often find themselves in the wonderful berry tarts typical of Savoyard desserts." We used our go-to Dorie Greenspan tart crust (find the recipe here) and then followed this recipe. It made for a great Tour viewing breakfast.
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Tuesday, July 16, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 16: Gruissan to Nimes


Where are we?  In the Aude and the Gard

Gruissan: The town website has a lot of appealing suggestions. I'm interested in the salt works. Because, of course I am.  They tell me that: Located very close to the old village of Gruissan, the saltworks of Saint Martin Island is bordered by the Mediterranean to the east and the Ayrolle pond to the south. Here, as throughout the Aude coast, culture has a long history.
In fact, for more than 100 years before Christ, Gruissan was already talking about its salt production and the salt trade was very important during the Roman era. On this site, the exploitation of saltworks in its current form began in 1911, covering an area of ​​approximately 350 hectares, it supported around thirty families in the 1970s.
The ecomuseum invites you to go back in time, dedicated to the cultivation of salt and its environment, it is complemented by a winegrower's area dedicated solely to Aude viticulture. Guided tours are offered to you to learn everything about salt production, make interesting ornithological and botanical observations and visit our oyster parks.
See more here: https://www.gruissan-mediterranee.com/en/Gruissan-cultural-site/the-salt-of-lile-saint-martin/

Le Tour specialties: eel bourride, Mediterranean fish and seafood, Aude wines (La Clape, Minervois, Corbières). Oysters from Gruissan and Leucate.

Nimes:  Let's visit the arena: It is considered the best-preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world. Built in the first century, it was used in the Middle Ages as a fortified village.
The Arena of Nimes fully illustrate the degree of expertise reached by Roman engineers to conceive and build such complex buildings. It is indeed perfectly symmetrical. Of oval shape, it measures 133 metres in length and 101 in width with a track of 68 by 38 metres. It is also 21 metres in height, with two floors of 60 arcades and an attic. At the top, stones were equipped with masts supporting a huge velum protecting the crowds from the sun and rain. Originally, all the arcades or the first floor were open for a better flow of the public.Today, the arena is the centrepiece of the Nimes ferias, with bullfights attriacting thousands of aficionados.
 
Le Tour specialties: brandade de Nimes, Villaret croquants (dry cakes), picholine (AOC green olive), Nimes olive oil (AOC), Nimes pâtés, gariguettes (strawberries), Costières de Nimes (AOC wine). Jeans originate from Nimes (Denim).

Christian Prudhomme says:  The sprinters may be heavily tipped for success when the race heads away from the coast near Narbonne, and maybe even when the riders pass over the Pic Saint-Loup. But the Mistral can blow fiercely at this time of year and could well upset the plans of the sprinters if those teams that feel at home when it’s windy end up scattering the peloton.


The stage: A sprint stage and quite possibly the last one of this year's Tour! One feels the sprinters deserve it after the last mountain stage. Indeed, the peloton stayed mainly together, with only one likely doomed attacked many kms into the stage.  
Eventually, he would be caught.
As they came in, crash Girmay! 
Philipsen with ease.



The wine: Domaine Faillenc Sainte-Marie Rose des Glaceries 2022
From the importer: Remains of a Roman winery have been found at the site of the Domaine Faillenc Sainte-Marie, a testament to the ancient tradition of winegrowing at that location. The domaine, in its present form, was founded during the reign of Louis XIV by an officer returning from service on the Indian subcontinent. Situated just outside of the tiny village of Douzens a mere 12 kilometers east of the ancient walled city of Carcassonne, Faillenc Sainte-Marie has recovered its past allure under the careful guidance of the energetic Gibert family and now produces an exciting range of red, white, and rose wines.


The food:  Nimes brandade
From Le Tour: Brandade is a Nimes speciality made with cod or, more precisely, hake, which was the name given to salted and dried hake, a fish caught in the Mediterranean, before becoming the local name for cod. The story goes that a woman from Nimes came up with the idea of grinding the cod meat in a stone mortar, diluting it and mixing it with the fragrant oil from the surrounding garrigues. This new dish was called brandade, from the word brandado, which means "stirred" in Provençal. Brandade was first mentioned in 1788, in the Encyclopédie méthodique. It states that the hake are cut into pieces and placed in a frying pan with finely chopped garlic. Oil is added little by little, and "by force of arms should bind with the garlic paste and the fish". It would be an exaggeration to speak of Nimes as the birthplace of brandade... though! Brandade was born from the combination of three ingredients that could only be found in Nimes: sea salt harvested fifty kilometres away, local hake later replaced by cod, and olive oil, which is abundant here. It also owes its success to the social structure of this industrious town from the 17th to the 19th century when the recipe was popularised.

Here's a recipe from a 2019 Tour visit: https://winebookgirl.blogspot.com/2019/07/wine-food-of-le-tour-2019-stage-16.html

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Sunday, July 14, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 15: Loudenvielle to Plateau du Beille


Where are we? Another day in the Pyrenees

Loudenvielle: The regional tourist site tells me that Labeled Country of Art and History in 2008 and classified since 2018 as Grand Site Occitanie “Pyrénées Aure-Louron” , the Louron Valley can be savored with the eyes.
Led by the guides-lecturers of the Pays d'Art et d'Histoire, a program of visits allows you to discover the heritage of the Louron Valley. Ancient villages enamelled with plaques, listed Romanesque churches with paintings over 500 years old will no longer hold any secrets for you. Visits which are always the opportunity for great encounters whether during the day, at night, with stories, with themes... Absolutely worth discovering in Loudenvielle is the Arixo museum space, a traditional residence where ancestral know-how is brought to life. combines new technologies and the Moulin de Saoussas , a true milling museum whose millstones operate with the power of water and the objects and tools presented date mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries. Outside, the sawmill operates as in the past. .

Le Tour specialties:  Black pork of Bigorre (AOC), Tarbes beans, Wines (Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh AOC), Barèges-Gavarnie AOC mutton, Onions from Trébons, Gascony hen, Garbure, Foie gras, spit cake...

Plateau du Beille: Another ski resort! The local site tells me that One of the Premier Nordic Sites in France, its snow has everything to seduce you
Located near Toulouse (1h30), at an altitude of 1800 meters, Beille offers a 360° panorama of the Pyrenees.
Its preserved nature, its grandiose landscapes and its numerous activities will punctuate your stay.
Did you know that reaching Beille is equivalent to reaching Scandinavia?
Throughout the journey, the landscapes, vegetation and fauna change.
Between Toulouse and Foix, oak dominates. Then the beech appears above Tarascon. The tree joins him just after Les Cabannes. It is only when we arrive at Beille that we discover the birch, the hook pine, the callune and the rhododendron. The succession of these plants is exactly the same when crossing Europe from south to north! Likewise, the ptarmigan or white partridges found in Finestre, south of the Beille plateau, have very close “cousins” in Lapland, at the Arctic Circle!

Le Tour specialties: delicatessen, zynat (soup), mushrooms, croustade, Tommes d'Ariège, Milla ariégeois (dessert).

Christian Prudhomme says:  The third Sunday of the Tour could prove crucial. Whatever’s happened on the previous days in the mountains, the terrain on this stage is ripe for revenge or confirmation, with 4,850 metres of vertical gain on the menu over almost 200 kilometres of racing. All manner of scenarios could play out, and it’s not unrealistic to imagine that team-mates of the GC contenders will attempt to infiltrate the breakaway climbing the Peyresourde. That would prove invaluable given what lies ahead, especially in a finale that features the climbs of the Col d’Agnes and the Port de Lers followed by the final haul up to Plateau de Beille.


The stage: Another brutal day and another large break. One hundred kms to go and the break had a gap of about 2:30. Eighty to go and it was at 3:40. As they continued, the break would split up, with 3 remaining out front, 2 chasers, and a very small yellow bunch behind. Soon it would be 4 out front and 1 chaser, as Carapaz reached the front trio. And soon great riding by Johannessen to join as well. 
Way behind, lost of concern on the broadcast about Cavendish and the time cut.
We shall see.
It was time to climb. At the start, all of the gc riders were together. Way behind: 28 minutes to Girmay. 38 minutes to Cavendish.
The gap to the break would drop quickly, as the very reduced peloton sped up.
Up front, they would attack each other repeatedly, as that gap continued to shrink.
And there they went, Pogacar and Vingegaard. They would drop the rest of the gc group with just about 10 kms to go. They would reach the remaining break riders very, very quickly. Carapaz would hang on with them briefly. It would not last.
They climbed together, but eventually, Pogacar would surge forward. They still had 5 kms of climbing to go. Big sigh.  
Pogacar was gaining a lot of time. 1:08 to be precise.
Speaking of time, the time cut was set at 53:22 and the Cavendish group was 37 minutes back as they approached the final climb. Someday my dream would come true and we would have a dedicated grupetto cam.





The wine: Domaine d'Ansignan Cotes Catalanes Les Grenadines
From an importer: A partnership between vignerons, Sebastien Calduch and Jeff Carrel, Domaine d’Ansignan estate is located high in the Pyrenees mountains at the end of Occitania. From three distinct parcels in granite-based soils 900 to 1400 feet above sea level, the vineyard is dry-farmed and in conversion to organic. Domaine d'Ansignan offers natural wines that deliver great energy and balance.

The food: Azinat Soup 

 large cabbage

750 g firm potatoes

4 salted pork ribs

2 "saucisses de couennes"

duck confit (4 thighs or 8 wings)

4 garlic cloves
4 carrots

2 large onions

1 bay leaf

1/2 liter ham broth (make from dry cured ham -- "jambon du pays")

1 dried liver sausage (300 g)
pepper

Wash the cabbage. Blanch it for 5 minutes in boiling water.
Mince the carrots and onions and sauté in duck fat. Add the pork ribs ("coustellou") which you first washed to remove excess salt, the saucissons de couennes, the ham broth, bay leaf; cover with 2.5 liters of water, season with pepper and bring to a boil. Add the cabbage.
Cook on a low flame for 2 hours. Then add the potatoes, the liver sausage cut in pieces, the duck confit with excess fat removed. Lay the rouzole on top. Cook for another 30 minutes on low heat.
After cooking, skim off the fat and pour the broth into sepaate pot. You can serve the broth as is or after cooking some vermicelli in it.
Serve the vegetabels, the meat and the rouzole on a large platter, with mustard and cornichons on the side.

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