Friday, July 5, 2024

Le Tour 2024 Stage 7: Nuits Saint George to Gevrey Chambertin


Where are we?
Speaking of wine. . . more Burgundy with some very famous names.

Nuits St George: Wine! But the local tourism site also tells me that: On the Route des Grands Crus, Nuits-Saint-Georges proudly presents its belfry. Famous for its wines, the city, whose nectar was prescribed to Louis XIV, has seen many well known figures pass through it: Francis I, Napoleon, and even the astronauts from the Apollo misions. The city is also the birthplace of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Don’t miss the museum in an old winery.

Le Tour specialties:  Burgundy wines (32 estates, 140 winegrowers), crémants, liqueurs, red fruit, marbled ham, Bush de Nuits (Belgian beer matured in wooden tuns that have contained Burgundy from Nuits-Saint-Georges).

Gevrey Chambertin: From the local tourist siteLocated in Côte de Nuits , 14 km south of Dijon in Burgundy, Gevrey-Chambertin is a wine-growing village. In this village some of  the most renowned appellations 
among the wines of France are produced, Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze… ,
exclusively in red wine made from the Pinot Noir grape variety, in grand cru,first raw and in communal appellation. The appellation includes 26 Climats classified as Premier Cru and 9 classified as Grand Cru. She is the most crowned in Burgundy.

Le Tour specialties: 149 vineyards, including 24 in the commune, produce the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation, including 33 Grand Crus de Bourgogne under the Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Chapelle-Chambertin, Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Latricières-Chambertin and Mazoyères-Chambertin appellations. Beef bourguignon, rabbit stew, coq au vin, coq au Chambertin.

Christian Prudhomme says:  Great wines for great riders! But before venturing into the heart of the vineyards, the time trial specialists will spend almost two-thirds of this time trial on forest roads. The climb of the Côte de Curtil-Vergy (1.6km at 6.1%), which comes in the final section, will test their tolerance to pain. On the face of it, there shouldn’t be any big gaps between the best riders, but who knows?


The stage: A time trial! Or maybe just a day to think about wine? Perhaps both.
The early leader Campanaerts came in at 29:44. 

This was a great moment.

That said, one would expect a winner from the final few riders. The current world champion, Evenepoel, was probably the favorite, but if Pogacar has a time trial like he did in the Giro...
Early on, several of the top favorites were ahead of Campanaerts pace.
The final rider was on the course, as we were getting time checks from the riders ahead.   
Roglic: 29.26.  Some sort of mechanical for Evenepoel, but he was able to continue.
Vingegaard: 29:29.  Remco in at 28:52. Pogacar: 29:04.





The wineDomaine Rougeot Les Vaux Rouge 2021 (Sans Soufre)
From the importerHaving family history in a famous winemaking region seems an obvious advantage: land passed from parent to child, intimate knowledge handed down to the next generations. But anyone who’s heard producers talk about family knows conflict between generations easily arises—especially when valuable land is involved and philosophies of winemaking vary so widely. There’s also the danger of insularity, when people don’t look beyond the confines of their village, region, or their own cellar to assess the quality of their labors. Combining a long family history with an eye toward the outside world is one of the reasons we’re most excited to share the graceful work emerging from Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils, where winemaker Pierre-Henri Rougeot issues accomplished, progressive wines in a region not necessarily known for shaking things up.

Domaine Rougeot was founded in the ’70s, in the Meursault village center, but Pierre-Henri is the eighth generation of Rougeots to be winemakers here. The family has 12.5 hectares total, 10.5 of which are in Meursault proper. Pierre-Henri’s story is interesting: he began work in his 20’s as an export manager for a cooperage, meaning he traveled all over France to sell barrels. On these travels, Rougeot became friendly with a number of natural winemakers in the Loire, Languedoc, and Beaujolais, and a few of their concerns convicted him over time: of these, minimizing the use of sulfur dioxide seemed tantamount. Pierre-Henri says, “I have discovered people with the true sense of what it is to be a winemaker—to give clearly the sensation that they have of their wines in barrel; this requires no chemical additions or interference.” Years of drinking natural wine persuaded Pierre- Henri that it was a vital pursuit; he claims these wines, “when well done, of course,” are always more complex, “with more personality than ever before.”


The food
Beef bourguignon
The obvious choice! 
Should I have used a French recipe? Sure. But with my daughter at a college that features a Julia Child Day, it was her recipe that called to me. 
6 slices bacon, cut into lardons
3 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 pounds stewing beef, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 large carrot, sliced
1 large white onion, sliced
1 pinch coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups red wine
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves smashed garlic
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 crumbled bay leaf
18 - 24 small pearl onions
3 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 herb bouquet (4 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme, 1 bay leaf)
1 pound fresh white mushrooms, quartered

Remove rind from the bacon and cut bacon into lardons (sticks, 1/4 inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long). Simmer rind and bacon for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 quarts of water. Drain and dry.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef.

Dry the stewing beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon.

In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the sautéing fat.

Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the meat lightly with the flour. Set casserole uncovered in the middle position of the preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to the oven for 4 minutes more. (This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust.) Remove casserole, and turn the oven down to 325 degrees.

Stir in the wine and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs, and bacon rind. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in the lower third of the preheated oven. Regulate heat, so liquid simmers very slowly for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Set them aside until needed.

When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.

Skim fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. The recipe may be completed in advance to this point.

For immediate serving: Covet the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles, or rice, and decorated with parsley.

For later serving: When cold, cover and refrigerate. About 15 to 20 minutes before serving, bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

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