Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2018 Stage 4: La Baule to Sarzeau

Where are we?
La Baule: The Chef-lieu de canton of Loire-Atlantique. Michelin tells me that:
In the early 1920s, the need to expand gave rise to the development of the La Baule-les Pins district to the east of the seafront. Organised around a central square (Place des Palmiers) from which eight avenues radiated out, including Avenue Lajarrige (named after the main town planner here) which leads to the seafront, the district is home to a number of attractive Art Deco-style villas.
Brittany tourism tells me that: One of the most beautiful bays in the world, La Baule owes its reputation to its beach, which is one of the longest in Europe. It runs for 9 km, from Pornichet to Pouliguen, and has a chic image thanks to its prestige hotels, historic villas and classy activities.
Once upon a time La Baule had an unimpressive beach, consisting mainly of damp sand dunes. Fortunately, in 1849, a ship owner from Nantes decided to plant some pine trees to stabilise the ground. Taking advantage of the newly planted pine forests, villas began to spring up, and the seaside resort of La Baule was born.
LeTour specialties: the salt crusted sea bass of Guérande, a great French specialty, a sea bass coated with Guérande salt, just to remind him of his crazy youth in the Atlantic, it is not uncommon to see the recipe on the menu at Eden Beach (Barrière Group). Chocolatier Christophe Roussel and his sweet specialties including macaroon. The Fondant baulois: a unique and irresistible chocolate mixed with salted caramel. 

Sarzeau: Chef-lieu de canton of Morbihan. Michelin has a suggestion for us:
The favourite residence of the Dukes of Brittany, this imposing château stands close to the sea. Built in the 13C and remodelled in the 14C and 15C, it was confiscated by François I. Since the site was used as a stone quarry during the Revolution, only six of its towers remain, but it has been patiently restored. In the first rooms you come to, take note of the exceptional glazed ceramic floors, which are a fine example of medieval decorative art. The ceremony hall leads out to the terraces, which afford beautiful panoramic views over the peninsula and the ocean that lies close by.
LeTour specialties: oysters, Saint-Armel's gochtial (typical brioche). Products in Rhuys (labelled): Rhuys tome (cheese with milk of black magpies), oysters, 
 buckwheat flour biscuits 

 


The stage: Designed as another sprint stage.


Rather beautiful route today:


With 150 kilometers to go, the gap had increased to almost 8 minutes.
125 to go and it had decreased to 6:45.
Nice field art:


 

Sprintermediate and Gaviria looks serious. Close behind him, Sagan.
With 95 kilometers to go, the gap was down to 3:20.
On a long sprint stage, with not a lot of action expected until the finish, there is a lot of time to fill on the tv broadcast. So, a musical interlude:


 

81 kilometers to go and the gap was just over two minutes. 
Fifty kilometers to go and the gap was 1:25. It was beginning to feel like the stage would never end.
At least we had some good field art:


Thirty four kilometers to go and the gap was around three minutes, creating a slight bit of suspense as to whether the break could stay away. My guess? No.


Fifteen kilometers and 1:35. I'm still thinking they will be caught. Thirteen kilometers and 1:30. Nice to have some excitement on the stage. Ten kilometers, 1:10. Seven kilometers, 56 seconds and other teams finally came to help Quickstep.

 

Crash! Right in the middle of the peloton. Given that it was outside the 3 kilometer point, if there are gaps, they will count.
Right as they neared the one kilometer point, there was the nuch, swallowing up the break.
Indeed, a true sprint with a photo finish.



Stage:

1 Fernando Gaviria (Col) Quick-Step Floors 04:25:01
2 Peter Sagan (Svk) Bora-Hansgrohe
3 André Greipel (Ger) Lotto Soudal
4 Dylan Groenewegen (Ned) LottoNL-Jumbo
5 Marcel Kittel (Ger) Katusha-Alpecin
6 Andrea Pasqualon (Ita) Wanty-Groupe Gobert
7 Alexander Kristoff (Nor) UAE Team Emirates
8 John Degenkolb (Ger) Trek-Segafredo
9 Dion Smith (NZl) Wanty-Groupe Gobert
10 Timothy Dupont (Bel) Wanty-Groupe Gobert

 


GC:

Rank Rider





1 GREG VAN AVERMAET





2 TEJAY VAN GARDEREN





3 GERAINT THOMAS





4 PHILIPPE GILBERT





5 JULIAN ALAPHILIPPE





6 BOB JUNGELS





7 TOM DUMOULIN





8 SØREN KRAGH ANDERSEN





9 MICHAEL MATTHEWS





10 RIGOBERTO URAN





 The wine: Domaine De L'Ecu Classic
From Dig
Why, yes, back to this producer already. Because it was time for a muscadet.
Since we already read about the Domaine, let's see what the producer has to say about the wine, with some help from Google translate:
This wine is intended "Classic" only to stand out from a fashion tending to promote wines whose aromas have their origin neither in the grape nor in the soil ... This Muscadet is elaborated and vinified to be appreciated in its youth, "On the fruit".
Straw yellow, crystalline. Nose mixing smoky notes on a background of citrus and white flowers, fine notes of encaustic. The mouth is lurking, presents a beautiful volume but also a tension and a freshness that would not displease the amateurs of Muscadet. This wine will perfectly accompany a seafood platter, a fatty fish (mackerel / sardine / salmon type) and will of course be the perfect companion for your aperitif. Of course, it is THE wine of the estate to taste your dozen oysters.
 

Food: Whole Fish Baked in Salt Crust From Île de Ré 
Much more here
Adapted from Daniel Massé, Le Chat Botté, St-Clément-des-Baleines, France

Time: 45 minutes
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, mix together coarse salt, fine salt, flour, thyme and fennel. Add egg whites and mix for 2 to 3 minutes to make a flexible and firm dough; if dough is too dry, add more egg whites one at a time as needed.

2. Roll dough out on parchment paper to a thickness of about 1/2 inch. Put vegetables in the cavity of the fish, and place fish in the center of the dough. Wrap fish entirely with dough, using the edges of the parchment to help lift the dough over the fish. Transfer parchment with encased fish to a shallow baking pan, and tear off excess parchment from around the fish.
3. Bake for 25 minutes. Cut open and remove salt crust from fish. Remove the skin of the fish. Discard crust and skin, fillet the fish and, if desired, serve with a beurre blanc sauce.
Yield: 2 servings.

Monday, July 9, 2018

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2018 Stage 3: Cholet Team Time Trial

Where are we?
Cholet: A Sous-préfecture of Maine-et-Loire, that was apparently the miltary capitol of the Vendée. Michelin tells me that: An airy town in the modern urban style, Cholet is dynamic and flourishing. It has preserved the memory of the tragic events of the Vendée wars, the massacres and the fires. Sited in the heart of the Mauges with woods, pools, parks and chateaux, Cholet is proud of its textile industry first mentioned in the 11C; the handkerchief (originally imported from Italy), the famous « white of Cholet » has given up centre-stage to high quality household linen.
It seems then that we should visit the textile and fashion museum, housed in a former cloth bleaching factory.
LeTour regional specialties for MAINE-ET-LOIRE: Anjou and Saumur vineyards (32 appellations), plum pâté, fouaces, sliced ​​apples, rillauds



 

The stage: Our team time trial or TTT is up today. What is it? Well, essentially all of the riders on a single team, out on the road in a group, working to get the fastest time possible by alternating between drafting (riding in line) and pulling (working at the front.) Confused? Try this video from LeTour.


First off: Mitchelton-Scott. Next to head out, Sky. A reminder as we start that the teams this year have 8 riders, rather than 9. The time for each team will be taken when the fourth rider crosses the line, so several riders may drop from the group during the race. They will then only have to come in before the cut off to continue in the race, something that may be important for the injured Lawson Craddock.

MTS comes in at 14:12 at the first check point, which tells us very little at the moment but will be something for comparison for later teams. Speaking of that comparison, Sky looks much faster on the road, but came in at 1 second slower than MTS at that check point. At the second check, they would be 4 seconds faster, having already dropped Rowe and Poels. 
Ahead, MTS in at 38:55.
Sky in at 38:50 with Geraint Thomas first across the line. Will he be in yellow tonight? Time will tell.
Behind, Movistar seems to be losing meaningful time. They were not expected to win today, but this may leave their gc riders with even more of a deficit. Indeed, they were 49 seconds down to Sky.
BMC in at 38:46. Nice work and not unexpected.
Some of the remaining teams, were, well, not that skilled at the discipline. 
Sunweb, expected to be a contender, came in at 11 seconds behind BMC. The only other likely challengers to their win would be Quickstep. Though strange things seemed to be happening to them on course. Much less precision than one would expect. At the third time check, they were down 6 seconds to BMC.
Behind them, Sagan dropped by his team. Unusual to see him struggling like this. Watching some of these teams, you almost wish cycling had a mercy rule.


 

38:53 for Quickstep. Congrats BMC and welcome to yellow Greg Van Avermaet.

Stage:


GC:
1 Greg Van Avermaet (Bel) BMC Racing Team 9:08:55
2 Tejay van Garderen (USA) BMC Racing Team
3 Geraint Thomas (GBr) Team Sky 0:00:03
4 Philippe Gilbert (Bel) Quick-Step Floors 0:00:05
5 Bob Jungels (Lux) Quick-Step Floors 0:00:07
6 Julian Alaphilippe (Fra) Quick-Step Floors 0:00:07
7 Tom Dumoulin (Ned) Team Sunweb 0:00:11
8 Søren Kragh Andersen (Den) Team Sunweb 0:00:11
9 Michael Matthews (Aus) Team Sunweb 0:00:11
10 Peter Sagan (Svk) Bora-Hansgrohe 0:00:34



Wine: Bruno Rochard/Domaine de Mirebeau Moque-Souris Chenin Blanc 2014
From CopakeWineworks
Finally, the expected white!
Christy says:
Feiring Line Wine Society: May 2017 Selection
From Alice: Here's a terrific wine which had its roots in  those schist-based soils of Rablay/Layon. Bruno returned to his family's estate in 1998 and started to work his 6.5 hectares in 2002, under the guidance of neighbor Richard Leroy. And in 2006 he started to convert to organic. Every year his wines get better and more expressive. I wrote up the 2013 a few months ago and the 2014 is no less lovely but a little different, there's still plenty of flesh but a little less pith and firm. The plushness matched with refreshment is an adorable duo and the whole wine has a very long, violet narrative until the last drop. Bruno continues to impress.
 


Food: Mouchoirs de Cholet
Mouchoirs de Cholet are sweets designed to honour the red handkerchiefs which are the symbols of Cholet. They are a subtle mixture of almond paste with orange, pralines and hazelnuts, covered by red and white chocolate recalling the design of the handkerchiefs. 

Sunday, July 8, 2018

Tour de France 2018 Stage 2: Mouilleron-Saint-Germain to La Roche-sur-Yon

Where are we?
Mouilleron-Saint-Germain: LeTour tells me that: A century after the end of World War I, the peloton of the Tour visits the land of “Father Victory”, Georges Clemenceau, born in Mouilleron-en-Pareds, the village that merged with the neighboring common of Saint-Germain-l’Aiguiller. Mouilleron was also the birthplace a prestigious military, Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, one of the chiefs of the French liberation army during the second World War.
LeTour specialities: mogettes (white beans), préfou (garlic bread). La Musse beer brewed in Bazoges-en-Pareds. La Barbinière wines (red and white) in Saint-Philbert-du–Pont-Charrault (10 km). 

La Roche-sur-Yon: The local tourist site tells me that:  In the middle ages, La Roche-sur-Yon was the capital of a principality. The town grew up around the castle and the Vieille Horloge (Old Clock) quarter. The Renaissance House, dating from 1566, witnessed changes in the town during the early years.
However, an edict issued by Napoleon on 25 May 1804 created a modern city and gave the old town a new aspect. It was laid out in pentagonal shape, like a Chinese Checkers board, with buildings in neoclassical style. This functional urban design was centred on several squares, the best-known of which honours the founder: Place Napoléon.
Something to visit: "Les Animaux de la Place" (mentioned in the Michelin guide). Napoleon took dozens of scholars with him and the story goes that they carefully conserved the mechanical menagerie which had been used to study the local fauna in Egypt. According to the legend, the animals brought back from the expedition to Egypt disappeared - and were rediscovered when the Place Napoléon was being renovated. Now they have taken up permanent abode there: a crocodile, an ibis, a hippopotamus, a dromedary and pink flamingoes are among many beasts which now inhabit the square.
LeTour specialties: mojettes (beans), Vendee buns, chocolate (La Napoline)



 

The stage: Chavanel in the break!  This is his 18th Tour start and several years ago, I was really excited that they had painted his bike to match c=his car.


With 140km to go the breakhas split after the Côte de Pouzauges with Chavanel solo 2:45 ahead of the peloton.


 

Meanwhile, in food news:


 

One of the big questions of the day: will Lawson Craddock be able to make it through the stage? After his crash yesterday, the medical report confirmed a possible hairline fracture to his shoulder blade and a heavy cut to his brow that required stitches. Almost everytime the peloton accelerates, he drops off, but so far, has been hanging on. His tweet from last night:


 

Chava is having some fun:


 

A surprising first abandonment of the Tour: Tsgabu Grmay, apparently suffering from stomach issues. Dramatic tumble for Rudy Molard, but he would be back up riding quickly.
Seventy kilometers to go and the gap was under three minutes, with the anticipated sprint looking likely.
Field art, I love you.


 

Spintermediate news: Sagan looks determined. Not long afterwards, a hard fall for Luis Leon Sanchez. He would try to remount, but instead would climb into the medical car. That is a big loss for the team, epsecially for the upcoming team time trial.
With about 35 kilometers to go, the gap to Chavanel is around two minutes.
Crash, Adam Yates, but he would get a new bike and head back out. Another crash, Dillier. He looked hurt, but would remount. Lots of small crashes today.
Twenty five kilometers to go and the gap was just over one minute. Mechanical for Demare. Would he miss the sprint again today?
Thirteen kilometers to go and Chavanel would be caught. 


 

One the run in, mechanical for Kittel. One sprinter down. Another crash, Durbridge. It was getting very fast and very nervous.
Big crash on the run in. Gaviria down, among many others. Inside three kilometers though, so times would not be an issue. At the line, from a very reduced group: Sagan.



Stage:


 


GC:


General Classification after Stage 2
SVK  1  SAGAN, Peter (BORA - HANSGROHE)                  8:29:53
COL  2  GAVIRIA RENDON, Fernando (QUICK - STEP FLOORS)      +  6
ITA  3  COLBRELLI, Sonny (BAHRAIN - MERIDA)                 + 10
GER  4  KITTEL, Marcel (KATUSHA ALPECIN)                    + 12
FRA  5  CHAVANEL, Sylvain (DIRECT ENERGIE)                  + 13
BEL  6  GILBERT, Philippe (QUICK - STEP FLOORS)             + 14
GBR  7  THOMAS, Geraint (SKY)                               + 15
BEL  8  NAESEN, Oliver (AG2R LA MONDIALE)                
NOR  9  KRISTOFF, Alexander (UAE TEAM EMIRATES)             + 16
GER  10 DEGENKOLB, John (TREK - SEGAFREDO)               



The wine: Domaine de l'ecu Pinot Noir Ange
from Dig 
Sticking with the red from a white region theme, we have a Loire pinot. Mainly because Wayne at Dig told me it was pretty great a while back. 

From the importerMany feel that Domaine de l'Ecu (along with a very small group of other domaines, of course) is to thank for what Muscadet is today. 
there are a series of non-negotiable "house rules" that apply to all the wines at Domaine de L'Ecu: working the soils, harvesting by hand, fermenting with indigenous yeast, avoiding pumping or racking of the must (only gravity), and minimal use of sulfur. All in all, it is a philosophy of "no make-up"; just true wines without adulteration or artifice.
In recent years, the domaine has seen a change of hands since celebrated owner and natural viticulturist Guy Bossard had no heirs interested in taking over the property. The estate is now run by a passionate, wine-loving gentleman named Frederik (Fred) Niger. Fred is a very “hands-on” owner and is dedicated to maintaining the greatness of the estate. To that end, he has retained Bossard as an ongoing consultant to ensure a smooth transition. 
Like Bossard, Fred is a fanatic in the vineyards, crops extremely low, and makes Muscadets that have remarkable depth, precision and ageability. His passion and connection to the natural world guide his every move in the vineyard and cellar. He is present, observant and mindful, always with the goal of working in tandem with the forces of nature and never against them. In recent years, Fred has embarked on a compelling endeavor to craft a collection of Vin De France varietal wines fermented and aged in a combination of amphora and barrel, and sometimes amphora alone. He is particularly interested in the energy exchange between vessel and wine, and ultimately in how this energy is transmitted to those of us who have the pleasure of experiencing these vibrant, lively, pure expressions of soil and grape.


The food:  Beurre blanc is a classic sauce that many believe originated in the Pays de Loire. Why not try this recipe from the Art of Eating cookbook? Also, subscribe.
Pike, Pike-Perch, or Salmon with Beurre Blanc
By Edward Behr  
Beurre blanc, the famous Loire Valley sauce typically served with poached fish, especially brochet (pike), sandre (pike-perch), and salmon, is made all along the middle and lower part of the river. The sauce, which soon became widespread in home cooking, was invented in about 1890 by Clémence Lefeuvre at her then-modest restaurant outside the city of Nantes, on the bank of the river in the hamlet of La Chebuette. Beurre blanc, which made her reputation, is one of the region’s many dishes suited to a glass of dry Chenin Blanc or, the Nantais would say, a Muscadet from a rich vintage. Despite all the butter, the taste of the sauce should be delicate, not heavy. The tactic of first cooking the shallots to a purée, for a richer base, was that of the chef Charles Barrier of Tours.
1 pike or European pike-perch, cleaned, or a salmon filet, weighing about 2 pounds (1 kilo)
2 shallots (about 50 gr)
½ cup (100 ml) white-wine or cider vinegar
1 cup (200 ml) white wine
¾ cup (175 gr) unsalted butter, in small cubes
salt and white pepper

Chop the shallots extremely fine, almost to a paste, and cook them slowly in the vinegar and white wine to the consistency of thin applesauce, 15 or more minutes. Take them from the heat. Poach or grill the fish, just until the thickest part, investigated with the point of a knife, is no longer translucent, about 10 minutes if the fish is an inch (2.5 cm) thick. Take care not to overcook it, or it will taste dry.
Meanwhile, over very low heat, or on and off the heat — don’t let the butter melt into oil — little by little whisk the pieces of butter into the shallots to form a light cream. Season with salt and white pepper. Temperature is key: serve the sauce, without too much waiting, from a slightly warm vessel together with the fish. Serves 4. 

Saturday, July 7, 2018

Tour de France 2018 Stage 1: Noirmoutier-en-l'Île to Fontenay-le--Comte