Thursday, May 11, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 6: Napoli

Where are we? Spending the day in Naples.

Napoli: The Italian Tourist site has a feature with several 10,000 step walking tours of the city, which look like fun.  Their overview? Naples not only welcomes, but literally embraces all who visit: it is well-known for its warmth, not only in terms of the weather. Overlooking the sea and with Vesuvius in the background, Campania's capital city has a colourful centuries-old history, with countless monuments to admire. There is even plenty to explore underground, with organised tours of the labyrinth of tunnels that lie below the city. The gastronomic tourism here is unrivalled: ready to try the best pizza in the world?
 
Regional SpecialtiesIf any food should be associated with Naples, it would definitely be pizza: the classic and most famous “pizza Margherita”, topped with mozzarella cheese, tomatoes and a leaf of basil, has been joined by many new and refined “gourmet” recipes, recently in vogue and able to suit all tastes. Pizza, in Naples, is a “serious matter” and the job of “making it” is considered as pure art: that is why nothing is improvised, and its preparation is made of precise gestures and procedures, wisely handed down from one artisan to another. In fact, in 2017 the “art of Neapolitan pizza-makers” was declared “Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO, thereby recognising pizza’s cultural relevance and identity value as a “Neapolitan (quality) brand”.
However, visitors willing to enjoy the flavors of traditional Neapolitan cuisine must prepare to be spoilt for choice! Among other typical products, a very tasty one is “casatiello”, a sort of “rustic pie”, made of a dough mixed with pepper and lard and filled with eggs, salami and cheese, traditionally prepared for Easter.
Actually, even Neapolitan pastry offers plenty of delights; sweet lovers can not miss a stop in a traditional pastry-shop to taste one of the local delicacies: the famous “Babà”, offered by every café and restaurants, either in its classic rum-flavored recipe, or covered in custard, cream or chocolate; still, the traditional “Sfogliatella”, a pastry with a delicious filling of semolina, ricotta cheese, eggs, sugar, candied fruit cut into small pieces, either wrapped in a shell-shaped crunchy puff pastry (the so called “riccia”) or surrounded by a round-shape thick shortbread (“frolla”) Babà and Sfogliatella flavoured ice cream definitely deserves tasting too.


The stage: The word of the day may be pretty:  Seventy kilometers to go and the gap to the leading five riders was about 3 minutes. They were
Alessandro DeMarchi, Francesco Gavazzi, Simon Clarke, Alexandre Delettre and Charlie Quaterman. Eventually DeMarchi and Clarke would get a gap, which would grow.
A bit of trivia from the Giro team: When Simon Clarke won stage 5 of La Vuelta 2018, he was in the breakaway with Alessandro De Marchi, who finished 3rd (Bauke Mollema was 2nd). Let’s see what happens today….
Were Clarke to win today, he would accomplish a goal of winning a stage in all three of the grand tours. 
Thirty two kilometers to go and their gap was 2:27. I was still expecting a sprint finish, but one never knows. Twenty kilometers and 1:37.
And to the surprise of many, they would hold a gap until just the very end. Truly a heartbreaking finish for them. But joy for Mads Pedersen as he finally gets his stage win.That was quite a finish.



The wine
The wineMarisa Cuomo Rosato
From 2022
Back to Dig for this pink delight. They say: Cuomo’s tasty rosato blends 50% each Piedirosso and Aglianico, After a 10-12 hours maceration it ferments in controlled temperature stainless steel tanks and is aged four months in stainless steel. Pure red fruit scents, some herbaceous notes, crisp, mineral, savory. 

The food: Pizza
There are endless recipes online and people tend to feel very strongly about their favorites. I'm a big fan of making pizza at home, because you can personalize toppings, a big bonus when you and your child very much so not want the same things! That said, the Giro is a long race. Maybe a good night to revisit a favorite local pizzeria? 

Wednesday, May 10, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 5: Atripalda to Salerno

Where are we? Spending the day in Campania.

Atripalda: The Giro tells us that the town was founded by Sabatio, great-grandson of Noah, who named its first settlement Sabathia. In the 4th century AD, the Lombards bring innovations: Troppualdo obtains its independence from Avellino, trade bears important fruits, and Largo Mercato, the current Piazza Umberto I, will develop.

Regional Specialties:
Typical dishes: Lagane and Chickpeas,  Soffritto Irpino, Minestra Maritata, Pork potatoes and pupacchie,
Scarola m’buttunata, Turnips and Potatoes
Pepaino M’buttunato, Codfish Pertecaregna style
Typical products: Caciocavallo cheese, Primo sale, Homemade pasta (tagliatelle, ravioli) Olive oil, Pickled stuffed peppers


Salerno: Let's go to the sea. Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, Salerno has almost three thousand years of history and is at the centre of a paradise of tourist attractions known all over the world: the divine Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri, the Cilento and Alburni, the archaeological sites of Paestum and Pompeii, the villages of green Irpinia, the vineyards of Sannio, and the splendour of the Royal Palace of Caserta. 

Regional SpecialtiesA visit to Salerno amid ancient monuments and sun-drenched beaches, cultural and entertainment events, enchanting panoramas and charming streets becomes even more tasty with the rainbow of local food and wine proposals inspired by a tantalizing fusion of land and sea. Restaurants, trattorias, kiosks offer an uninterrupted symphony of flavours all to be savoured. The ‘cuoppo’ is the favourite street food of visitors; a cartoccio full of breaded fried food: fish and vegetables galore. Don’t miss a taste of spaghetti “al dente” (cooked just right) with seafood, a sandwich with stuffed spleen typical of the patron saint’s day, a bunch of sanginella grapes from the Giovi hills, and aubergine parmigiana. There is never a shortage of freshly fried anchovies from the Gulf of Salerno, delicious buffalo mozzarella from the Piana del Sele, while the red of the San Marzano tomato brightens up first courses, summer salads or His Majesty the pizza. Sfogliatelle Santa Rosa, lemon delicacies, a typical strawberry cake, a slice of tasty annurca apple, calzoni with chestnuts, traditional nougat and sweets with Giffoni round hazelnuts, ice cream and lemon amalfitano “sfusato” slushies are the irresistible temptations for dessert. And to toast, there is no shortage of wines from the hills surrounding the city in an breathtaking embrace.



The stage: Very wet roads and a crash caused by a loose dog for Remco. Not a good way to start the day, but he would get back on his bike and continue riding.
The word of the day was clearly rain and lots of it. Miserable day for a 171 kilometer ride.
The break was small and with a possible sprint on tap, they never got a very large gap. Under 70 kilometers to go, the gap was around 1 minute.  A very wet and foggy descent was taken very gingerly by both the break and the peloton. With 39 kilometers to go, the gap was 1:30. Under 30 kilometers to go and it was down to 1 minute as the approached the southernmost point in this year's Giro. Out solo in front was Zoccarato. It was a brave ride from him, as he held on longer than one might have expected. Crash just around the 7 kilometer point, that would delay some riders.
Just as they all came back together, another crash, including Remco. That was within the 3 kilometer point, so the riders down would be credited the same time as the main bunch. Yikes, another crash at the line for Cavendish and others.
Kaden Groves with the stage win. 



The wine
 Montevetrano Core Campania IGT 2012
A repost from 2015
From the importer
Proprietress Silvia Imparato indulged in wine as a hobby until she decided to rebuild her family’s vineyards in Montevetrano, in the oft-underestimated region of Campania. She employed the skills of highly regarded winemaker Riccardo Cotarella and they have created an outstanding icon wine they decided to name Montevetrano. 
Montevetrano is a small zone in the hills near the commune of San Cipriano Picentino, not far from Salerno. Mountains surround the property, with the vineyards situated on gentle slopes facing south by southwest. The heart of the estate is a beautiful, ancient villa. In the first years of production the basement of the villa also served as the cellar. Now the wine is made and stored in a new modern cellar, built in 2000. Silvia and her friends use the old cellar for private vintages. Within a very short period of time her work with Cotarella has produced an absolute jewel in this location.

Core (pronounced Kor-Ay) is local dialect for “heart”, and the label (once again designed by the daughter of proprietress Silvia Imparato) evokes the love of life, and wine that is the spirit of Montevetrano.  Core is sourced from particular experimental Aglianico plots on the estate in San Cipriano and also from outside growers in the classical Benevento area who are working closely with Riccardo Cotarella. 

I say:  Dark fruits, licorice and earth. 
More on the wines of the region here, from the New York Times. 

The food:  Minestra Maritata

ingredients
500g 'scarola'
500g chicory
300g fennel
celery
50g grated pecorino cheese
100g pancetta or bacon
1 litre of stock

Making it
Clean the vegetables well and cut into small pieces before boiling each one in separate pans of just enough salty water. When done, drain well and place all the vegetables together in a bowl. Chop the bacon and gently fry it in olive oil. When done add it to the stock, meat or vegetable, and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat for 10 mins after which add it to the boiled vegetables and cook for a further 20 mins. Serve with a sprinkling of cheese and a dose of olive oil and black pepper

Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 4: Venosa to Lago Laceno

Where are we? In Basilicata, heading to Campagnia

Venosa: EBorghi tells me that prehistoric site, archaeological park, Jewish-Christian catacombs, historic houses, museums and churches: this is the vast and diverse plan of cultural offerings that the City makes available to tourists of visitors. A plunge into the past on the traces of a great cultural wealth, in the myth of the great poet Horace Flaccus, on the notes of the prince of musicians and madrigalist Carlo Gesualdo.

Regional Specialties: Venosa’s gastronomy has a history that comes from afar. …inde domum me ad porri et ciceris refero laganique catinum (I’m going home to my bowl of leeks, chickpeas and lagane) as Quintus Horatius Flaccus, also known as Horace, wrote in 35 B.C. (Satire 1.6).  With his love for humble and healthy food, he was the precursor of the Mediterranean diet.
Lagane and chickpeas: fresh durum wheat semolina pasta, similar to tagliatelle, but wider and shorter, cooked together with chickpeas, topped with crunchy crusco peppers. It is a first dish that can still be tasted in the city’s restaurants
Past’ e tar’ cucòzz: pasta with talli di zucca (a vegetable similar to broccoli) and peeled tomatoes.
Orecchiette all’oraziana: orecchiette pasta with sausage cooked in tomato sauce and served with mozzarella, cheese and, optionally, a pinch of chilli pepper.
Brodetto di agnello alla pastora: a timbale of lamb, eggs and cardoons, which can be eaten in every home in Venosa on Easter Monday.
Cod fish with crusco peppers: boiled cod fish with crusco peppers fried in EVO oil.
Typical Desserts
Pizzicanelli: these are rhombus-shaped biscuits made with cocoa, chocolate, almonds and cinnamon.
Raffaiul: made with egg yolks, sugar and then glazed. Until the 1970s, they were the typical desserts served during wedding banquets.
La past d la zeit: a fluffy mixture of eggs, flour, sugar and cream of tartar, filled of a special cream with a sweet vanilla flavour.
Cooked Grain of the Dead: dessert for 2nd November, Day of the Dead. Pearl wheat, pomegranate seeds, walnuts, cooked fig wine.
Cauzincidd’: puff pastry filled with chickpeas and chestnuts. This is a popular Christmas dessert.
Pettole: a mixture of flour and yeast fried in hot oil and then sweetened.

Lago Laceno: The Giro tells me that 
The town of Bagnoli Irpino is in a valley surrounded by mountains, some of which exceed 1700 meters of altitude, such as Mount Cervialto and Mount Raiamagra. It is a sunny location with not too rigid climate, quiet and popular tourist destination, well connected with the motorway network.

Regional Specialties:
Cheese: Sheep and cattle breeding is an important resource for Bagnoli Irpino. Moreover, the environmental context in which the animals live guarantee an excellent milk, therefore outstanding cheeses and a tasty meat. Among the cheeses we find excellent pecorino (also flavored with truffle), a fresh ricotta with a delicate taste, dried ricotta with chili, an excellent podolic caciocavallo.
Black Truffle of Bagnoli Irpino and products with truffles: The Black Truffle of Bagnoli Irpino (scientific name is “Tuber mesentericum”) is very appreciated for its unmistakable aroma. With the Tartufo di Bagnoli Irpino are produced typical flavored cheeses, such as a very valuable butter also used for the preparation of croutons and pasta, meat or fish dishes. In addition, “Tartufo di Bagnoli Irpino” is used for alcoholic preparations: grappa and liqueurs.
The Chestnut of Montella IGP: The territory of Bagnoli Irpino is part of the production area of the “Castagna di Montella I.G.P”, which also includes the territories of the Municipality of Montella, Cassano Irpino, Volturara Irpina, Nusco and Montemarano. This quality of chestnuts is very appreciated, especially abroad. With a particularly sweet taste, it is ideal for pastry: “castagnaccio”, chocolate chestnut balls and many other products. In addition, the chestnut processing industry produces “Castagne del prete” (dried and then softened), “marronata” and flour.
Mushrooms and other forest products: In the chestnut groves surrounding Bagnoli, from 700 meters up to 1809 of Mount Cervialto, in the beech woods, there are: the porcine in its various aspects (Boletus Reticulatus, Boletus Edulis, etc.), the nails, the hen, the egg and others. The period runs from May to September and depends on the climate, altitude and humus richness of the woodland. There is no other vegetable so appreciated as this product. Its particular flavor, the unmistakable scent, the different fine varieties make it a food celebrated by gourmets and appreciated by all palates. To collect mushrooms, you must have a badge so if you do not have it, you can buy them from authorized people, who personally goes to collect them at the first sunrise.


The stage: Hills! And a lot of action to start the day. Plus, rumors that Remco would be willing to give up the pink jersey today.
First, some tourism: Will the breakaway be doomed? This is a stage during which they may survive and with 40 kilometers to go their gap was still over 4 minutes. It was also the reason it took almost 80 kilometers for the break to form.
The composition of the break: Inside 10 kilometers and the gap was still over 4 minutes. It was dropping though, as Conci attacked his breakmates. He would be chased and caught, as the group grew smaller. Eventually at the front, it would be Leknessund, Ghebreigzabhier, and Paret-Peintre, making spelling quite a challenge. Surging to the front, Leknessund, but he would be caught by Paret-Peintre. The stage win looked like it would come down to one of the duo, but would they get pink? That was to be determined.
With the win, Paret-Peintre. But with this second place, pink to Leknessund!

The wine
Venditti Sannio Rosso $17.00 at Biondivino
A repost from 2012
Back in 1988, the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso introduced the word organic for the first time with its review of Venditti's wines.  For over 20 years, Nicola Venditti has believed in tilling the soil and being certified organic. Those who still believe that “organic” equals “non-scientific” should think again. Nicola is an enologist and the very incarnation of a contadino (farmer). The vineyards have been in the family for over 400 years (thus the “antica” part of Antica Masseria), and he feels deeply passionate about his territory of Sannio, an area that may be less well known than the neighboring Taurasi, but is a real forgotten gem
Nicola Venditti eschews oak and kneels at the altar of steel; letting these wines really show their clean and distinct fruit of the native grapes (some of which he only cultivates). Come before harvest, and Mr. Venditti will  you taste the rare grape Barbertta in his didactic vineyard; and explain how Montepulciano and Barbera where catch-words for varieties people knew by sight by didn't have a set name for. His cantina is clean and he gladly whistles out PH and acid levels for those inclined. This humanist-techno-geek approach, he explains, is a combination of the "humanity" of ancient methods and local varieties, together with the "rationality" offered by technology.
Field blend of 50% "Montepulciano," 30% Olivella, 20% Aglianico. Deep purple color; nose of mulberry and cured black olives; walnut skin tannins; top flower notes. The native Olivella give that a hint of flower, as well as, some structure to the wine. "Montepulciano is in quotes because it seems very different (in taste and morphology) from the Montepulciano found in Abruzzo and elsewhere. Long live the daily drinkin' field blend and family style meals. 

I say: Pretty.  Deep purple with a nose that suggests flowers and cherries. Fresh, vibrant and juicy. I like this one a lot.

The Food: Lagane and Chickpeas

Ingredients:
1 2/3 CUPS of all-purpose flour
1 1/4 CUPS of re-milled semolina flour, plus extra
9 OZ. of boiled chickpeas
2 OZ. of guanciale (cured pork jowl)
1 OZ. of dried sweet chili pepper
4 ripe tomatoes
1/2 dried hot chili pepper
garlic
parsley
vegetable broth
extra-virgin olive oil
salt


For the lagane: Mix the all-purpose flour and  re-milled semolina flour together. Add 3/4 cup water, a little at a time, and knead until an even dough forms. Sprinkle the work surface with a bit of semolina and knead the dough until it becomes smooth and uniform. Roll out the dough into a thin 1/10" sheet. Cut strips measuring about 1" wide by 3" long. (Alternatively, you could use store-bought lagane or pappardelle).
For the sauce: Cut the guanciale into cubes. Wash and chop the tomatoes. In a saucepan, sauté 2 crushed unpeeled garlic cloves, the cubed guanciale, chili peppers, chopped tomatoes, 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley, and a pinch of salt in 1/4 cup olive oil for 5 minutes. Add the chickpeas and let simmer, stirring, for 2 minutes. Then add a few ladlefuls of vegetable broth. Cook for another 3 minutes.
Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water for 5-6 minutes. Drain and add to the chickpea sauce. Serve, topped with a drizzle of olive oil and chopped parsley to taste.

Monday, May 8, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 3: Vasto - Melfi

Where are we? Heading further up the coast to Basilicata.

Vasto: The Giro tells us that Vasto is one of the most fascinating town of Abruzzo, on the Adriatic Sea with its characteristic gulf and protected by the Apennine peaks, beautiful in its uniqueness.
The coast of Vasto stretches for over 17 Km, with beaches of different types: from the fine and golden sand of Vasto Marina and Punta Penna, to that of pebbles and rocks of Mottagrossa and San Nicola. Every tourist can choose the most desired beach between coves and headlands and taste the seafood specialty on the trabocchi, the ancient wooden fishing machines positioned in the middle of the sea. You can enjoy the seascape by staying at the seafront of Vasto Marina, full of bathing establishments equipped with every comfort and admire the symbol of the city in the middle of the sea, the Bagnante’s monument.

Regional specialtiesThe cuisine of the Vasto area, from the coast to the hinterland, is renowned for its variety, thanks to the different traditions that have participated in its birth and growth. The shepherds’ cuisine mixed with that of the farmers and their mountain products characterized by simple dishes but, at the same time, tasty. Therefore, wide use of soups and minestre, sheepmeat, cheese and that extra flavor given by aromatic herbs.
A separate note should be made for the seafood cuisine, facilitated by a catch of great quality and variety and from the great heritage “of the earth” such as vegetables from  the nearby hills, and it is precisely from the meeting of these products that the main dish of the tables is born: fish soup Vastese style.

MelfiMelfi is the third largest municipality in Basilicata in terms of population and size. It sits at 562 meters above sea level on the slopes of Mount Vulture. Its extended historic centre and city walls surrounds the Norman Swabian Castle, first built by the Normans, and then rebuilt by Frederick II. Finally, it was equipped with new towers by Charles I of Anjou and restored by the Caracciolos and Dorias. Massimo Pallottino (who was born in Melfi) National Archaeological Museum, is based in the Castle and it is one of the most significant and well-known in the south of Italy.

Regional Specialties
“Pancotto alla Melfitana”: it is prepared by mixing bread, potatoes, and boiled turnips in one saucepan to be finally topped with an oil, garlic, red pepper sauté.
“Cucinidd”: lamb cooked with bacon, sausage, tomatoes, cardoons, and eggs.
“Maccuarnar”: dialect name for “Maccoronara”, which is long, fresh pasta that is hand-made using a metal rolling pin.
“Calzoncelli“: a traditional Melfi dessert. The recipe has been passed down through generations: a cylindrical dough of two to three cm in diameter made of almonds, chocolate, and sugar is coated in a crumbly shortcrust pastry crust.


The stage: Can the pure sprinters hang on up the bump at the end of the stage or is it a day for a Michael Matthews type ride? We had 216 kilometers to find out.
Doomed breakaway? Of course. But they would get a lot of tv time for their sponsors. Inside 40 kilometers to go and the catch was imminent. Also, some of the sprinters were starting to lose ground. Some surprising names, some unexpected like Cort. 
The race had become very fast and intense. 36 kilometers to go and the gap was under 20 seconds. Sure enough, the catch happened almost immediately after that marker, as more and more riders dropped from the front. 
Attacking from the front, Pinot! Maybe in search of mountain points? Indeed, he would find himself on the podium as KOM in his final Giro. Dropped but eventually getting back, Pedersen, one of the favorites on the day.
With wet roads, it was a nervous descent and Evenepoel was staying very close to the front and win the intermediate sprint.
Michael Matthews! A very well deserved stage win after his team worked all day.



The wine
Gricos Aglianico Del Vulture 2008
A repost from 2013
From the importer:
Aglianico is the best known 'big red' grape in southern Italy, and there are two places where it grows particularly well, Taurasi in Campania and Monte Vulture in Basilicata. The areas are less than two hours from each other, both are volcanic in geology, and both produce magnificent red wines, amongst the most ageworthy in Italy (or anywhere else, for that matter). Grifalco is an excellent producer of Aglianico del Vulture owned by the Piccin family, who were originally wine producers in Tuscany but decided that southern Italy, Basilicata in particular, was more promising. I think they're right. Gricos is their everyday barbeque wine, made from young vines but nonetheless meaty and substantial. 
    I say: Balsamic, herbs,very dark fruit. Firm tannins on the finish. Without food I was not thrilled, but served with a meatloaf made with beef and Italian sausage, it really came alive. 


    The food:  Brodetto Vastese
    Recipe from Life in Abruzzo

    4 Scorpion Fish (or Rock Fish)
    4 Skate Wings
    4 Cod Fillets
    4 Red Mullet
    4 King Prawns
    1/2 Squid
    8 Mussels
    2 Chopped Cloves of Garlic
    200 ml Extra Vrgin Olive Oil
    1 Red Pepper
    250 g Cherry Tomatoes
    Fresh Chili according to taste

    INSTRUCTIONS
    Soak the mussels and clams in salty water and then wash and drain to ensure they are sand free.
    Wash clean and trim the fish leaving the heads intact.
    Wash and clean the squid and crustaceans and chop and  trim.
    Add olive oil to your pan and sauté your finely chopped garlic and chopped parsley.
    First lay the squid that you have cut into small pieces and cook at least 15 min
    Add the prawns and skate and cook for another 10-15 min.
    Add the fish and cook for another 15 minutes.
    Add the mussels, clams and tomatoes cover and cook for 10-15 min.
    Add a sprinkling of chopped parsley to give more colour to the dish on serving.

    Sunday, May 7, 2023

    Giro 2023 Stage 2: Teramo - San Salvo

    Where are we? Continuing north along the coast of Abruzzo.

    TeramoThe city of Teramo is one of the four provincial capitals of the Abruzzo region. It is located at the confluence of the Tordino river and the Vezzola stream, on the slopes of the Gran Sasso and a few minutes from the Adriatic Sea. The Italian tourism site tells me that: Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso massif in an area surrounded by olive trees and rows of vineyards, Teramo is often considered one of the most beautiful villages in Abruzzo. 
    As well, they say that: There are some places you definitely can’t miss if you’re visit Teramo for the first time, starting with the Dome of Santa Maria Assunta. Its façade embraces two architectural styles: the upper part an ode to Gothic style and the lower part overtly Romanesque. This alternation of styles also continues inside, where the 13th-century Romanesque stands proudly next to the 14th-century Gothic and the New Sacristy Chapel built in the early 18th century. The heart of Teramo is Martyrs of freedom square, overlooked by the cathedral and two other historical buildings, the Bishop's Palace, home to the Diocese of Teramo, and Palazzo Costantini.
    Less than 200 metres from the square we find the ruins of TRoman theatre, built in the Augustan age and still undergoing excavations that are sure to bring to light other parts of the original structure. A few metres further west are what’s left of the old Roman amphitheatre, with part of the brick perimeter wall still standing.

    Regional Specialties: From the Giro site: Among these there is the Chitarra con le pallottine alla Teramana, a pasta prepared with the guitar, a special rectangular wooden frame, seasoned with meatballs. Another elegant dish are the Scrippelle ‘mbusse teramane. In the dialect the word ‘mbusse means “soaked” precisely because the scrippelle (very thin crepes made with water, flour and eggs) are wet with a rich and tasty meat broth that make them soft and tasty. And then, very common in Abruzzo, are the arrosticini, strictly made with sheep meat. 
    'Le virtu’ The virtues are a super-rich soup of the first fruits of the season, expertly mixed with all the remains of the winter pantry and which is consumed on the first of May in Teramo. April 30 was considered by the peasant calendar to be the watershed between the end of winter and the beginning of the fertile season. Legend has it that the virtues are so called because they had to be prepared from 7 virgins, using 7 legumes, 7 aromas, 7 meats, 7 seasonal vegetables, 7 types of pasta, cooked all in 7 hours … 7, because there are 7 Christian virtues. In short, the virtues are a truly exceptional dish, normally to prepare it takes 7 to 10 days. In truth, for virtues we need over 50 ingredients, each family guards and jealously passes on its version of the recipe. To preserve the authenticity of the recipe, a group of experts and restaurateurs from Teramo have created a specification, also recognized by the Ministry of the Environment and Forest Policies

    San Salvo: The Giro tells me that due to its natural disposition, the city of San Salvo was for centuries the south-eastern gate of Abruzzo. It is a city of 19,963 inhabitants located at 100 m. above sea level and 4 km from the Adriatic, on whose shores there is a very fine Sandy beach. It is a riverside city with the Trigno river and its botanical and natural treasures. It is an agricultural city surrounded by olive trees and covered with crops .It is a city of travel, with ancient and modern routes: from the tratturo to the cycle path, from the motorway to the valley, from the fast railway to glorious national road.

    Regional SpecialtiesSan Salvo’s territory is rich in genuine products, that are the result of a millennium old heritage of rural and country knowledge, enriched during the Middle Ages by the great rural Cistercian tradition brought in this area by the monks of the SS Vito’s and Salvo’s Abbey. Among the many local products the olive stands out; its fruits are picked up before the full ripeness and processed in the same day, so that it gives the olive oil a fruity aroma, limpidness and a low rate of acidity. The peach cultivation has a great importance in San Salvo and this fruit is exported in all Europe.
    San Salvo boasts an high level food tradition with a huge variety of home made pasta, sweets, and sausage products like sausages, pepperoni, “soppressate”, “capicolli” and “ventricine”: these products are often home made, but in the last years their manufacturing production has a great success.



    The stage: An expected spring stage. Breakaway, check. Not given a lot of space, also check. Also, unexpected jersey change, check. 
    Brandon McNulty arrived at the start in  Teramo in the blue jersey as leader of the mountains classification, but it was instead given to Tao Geoghegan Hart due to timing errors from yesterday's time trial. 
    Ninety five kilometers to go and the gap was around 1:45. Around fifty kilometers and the gap was under a minute. The bunch wanted the gap to not grow, but it was too soon still for the catch.  
    Along the way. This sort of thing always amazes me. Thirty kilometers to go and the bunch was all together. As they rode closer, the trains were out in force, both for the sprint, but also to protect the gc riders. 
    Big crash as they closed in, many on the road, but also many held up behind. Among those down, Cavendish. Importantly, that was before the 3 km line, so those times should count. 
    Wow! Strong finish from Jonathan Milan to go to the front early and to hold on. Time now to see who lost time after the crash.



    The wine: 
    Wine: Nicodemi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 08 $17.00   
    A repost from 2011
    They say: Fattoria Nicodemi is located in the Teramo district in Abruzzo, a hilly province bordering the Adriatic sea in central Italy. It was founded by Bruno Nicodemi, and today is run by brother and sister team Alessandro and Elena Nicodemi. High up in these chalky, clay-rich hills, the Nicodemi estate couldn't be better located—and any more different than bulk producers in the Abruzzo lowlands. The family's vineyards, at more than 900 feet above sea level, enjoy a slow cook, with warm afternoons and cool evenings. “We try to work in a simple way,” says Elena, to let the estate's terroir speak clearly; all field work, including the harvest, is done by hand. Their Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo wines represent fruit-forward, single-varietal bottlings that are both rich in flavor and represent great value.

    I say: Sturdy, deep color, dark fruit. Would be nice with my favorite meatballs and pasta.

    The food:  Virtu
    The traditional soup, recipe from Academia Barilla

    Ingredients:
    1 ½ lb legumes , dried
    salt
    3 ½ lb legumes , fresh
    spinach
    carrot
    celery
    swiss chard
    fennel
    endive
    marjoram
    mint
    lard
    ⅝ lb fresh pasta
    1 ½ lb pasta , dry
    parsley
    onion
    clove
    pepper
    nutmeg
    tomato sauce
    garlic
    ground pork
    ham bone

    Preparation: Leave the dry pulses to soften in cold water for at least one day. Then cook them in lightly salted water until they are half-cooked. Clean all the vegetables (except for the onion, garlic and parsley), cook in salted water, drain and put aside. In a second receptacle, boil together the pork meats (which should be salted and peppered). When cooked, bone them, cut into small pieces, and put them back into the stock. Add the cooked pulses and some marjoram and wild mint leaves. Prepare a chopped mixture of lard and parsley and brown in a pan with the tomato sauce, onion and garlic well-chopped. Stir the sauté, and add to the stock with the boiled vegetables. When almost cooked, adjust the salt, put in the pasta (beginning with the dry varieties and the larger formats) and the fresh pulses and finish off the cooking. This minestrone, very rich and extremely tasty, may be consumed hot or cold. It is prepared on the occasion of the 1st of May (May Day).

    Saturday, May 6, 2023

    Giro 2023 Stage 1: Fossacesia – Ortona

    Where are we? Starting in the south, in Abruzzo. 

    FossacesiaFossacesia is located on a small hill on the left of the Sangro River's mouth, about two kilometers from the Adriatic Sea. The Giro site refers to it as a City of Oil and City of Wine. 
    To visit? The Abbey of Golfo Di Venere, which includes a basilica and the monastery proper, both built in the early 13th century on a pre-existing convent.

    The regional specialties: Some regional specialty write ups are longer than others
    A typical local product is citrus extra virgin olive oil, for whose production the olives are ground directly with lemons or oranges of the Costa dei Trabocchi, to produce an oil with a soft and delicate taste, ideal to enrich every dish of meat and fish. 
    Many other are the delicacies of Fossacesian cuisine: from pizzas and foje, ancient dish of peasant origin consisting of an unleavened pizza made with corn flour and boiled vegetables cooked in a pan, with extra virgin olive oil, dried peppers and “sardelle”, to “pallotte cace e ove”, egg and cheese meatballs, fried and served in sauce. Typical of the territory, the pizza with peppers and sardines, a dish on the tables of the Fossacesian people on the All-Souls’ Day. Of the Christmas season are the “crispelle”, or pancakes, from the typical tubular shape, based on flour, potatoes, and water, embellished with raisins and anise seeds, in their sweet version.
    Famous for the art of confectionery, among the specialties are the “sise di Venere”, soft pasta cakes stuffed with custard, the “celli pieni”, delicious biscuits made with oil, wine and flour stuffed with grape jam, chocolate, and almonds and bocconotti of Fossacesia, shortcrust pastry, filled with jam, lemon peel, cinnamon, chocolate, and almonds.

    Ortona: The Giro tells me that Ortona is the gateway to this part of Abruzzo, inhabited since the Bronze Age (1400 BC) as a seafaring and later developed, by the shelter of its promontory overviewing the Adriatic Sea, into a commercial and tourist harbour.
    Let's visit the Cathedral of St. Thomas the Apostle and the homonymous square. From September 6, 1258, it has enshrined the remains of the Apostle Thomas. The Patron Saint’s Day falls on the first weekend of May, and from Saturday to Monday, visiting the tomb, you can obtain the plenary indulgence of St. Thomas’ forgiveness. 
    The church is also the finish line of the Way of the Apostle Thomas, a religious-cultural itinerary of over 450 km that reproposes the value of pilgrimage of the most important spiritual locations of Abruzzo.

    The regional specialtiesThe cuisine of Ortona is the happy marriage between the products of the sea and those of the earth. Among the typical dishes you can find the brodetto, fish soup with tomatoes, peppers and EV olive oil, served in terracotta pots; baccalà e patate in umido, salted codfish and potato stew; broccoli e stoccafisso, broccoli and stockfish; baccalà e peperoni, salted codfish and peperoni; seppie e piselli, squid and peas; finally, spaghetti con pelosi o frutti di mare, spaghetti with crab or seafood, and frittura di pesce dell’Adriatico, fried fish of the Adriatic. Tied to the rural tradition is pasta alla chitarra, handmade pasta with mixed meat ragù, cardone in brodo di tacchino, cardoon in turkey soup, pallotte cace e ove, cheese dumplings (made of eggs, grated cheese and breadcrumbs), pizze e fuoije (sautéed mixed greens accompanied by cornbread).
    Among the traditional desserts are the nevole, cone-shaped rolled wafers made with mosto cotto, oil and flour, flavoured with cinnamon and baked between two heated iron plates like the pizzelle, a re-elaborated version of the pizzelle of Abruzzo.


    The stage: Off they go! An ITT to start things off always feels like a kind of mellow way for viewers/blog riders to start a race. Easy to follow, relatively quick, it has always felt like a warm up to me. 
    Early in the hot seat, De Bod" at 22' 32''. Next there would be Mads Pedersen followed by Brandon McNulty. Next up would be Vine. The hot seat was changing hands (umm, glutes?) rapidly at this point. Next, Geoghegan Hart followed by Almeida. At the end though, it was Remco's day. Evenepoel put on a display that not only put 22 seconds into Hour Record holder Filippo Ganna but also dealt huge damage to his GC rivals, notably putting 43 seconds into Primoz Roglic. Those are a lot of early seconds for the other GC competitors to give up. 

    Standings:



    The wine: A note on this year's wines, for a long list of not terribly interesting reasons, many of this year's wines will be reposts of prior years. Not all, but many. So if something sounds vaguely familiar or if a vintage seems not current, there is a reason. For example, today's wine:
    Cirelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2019 from Biondivino
    From the importer: Agricola Cirelli is an organic farm certified by IMC (doc. n.3194 RV.01), surrounded by 23 hectares of land. All of its production is designed to respect the natural cycles of the olive trees, vineyards, horticultural crops and the animal breeding. Crop rotation, natural fertilization, and free range animal grazing are Agricola Cirelli’s “techniques” of production. This harmonious environment creates olive oil, wine, vegetables, fruit and meats of supreme quality.
    The farm grows its food and wine in total respect of organic agriculture. Nature sets the rules and it dictates the rhythm of every activity. The animals’ interaction with the land offer natural grazing and fertilization of the vines, which means there is no need to use harmful chemical substances.
    Francesco purchased the land in 2003 right after his graduation in Economics at a prestigious European university. Before this, he was a student at the Italian Navy College. He decided to dedicate himself to organic agriculture because of the profound values of working the land (“Right after God the farmer comes next” he was told once). He is now helped out by his fiancée, Michela.

    The food: Bocconotti
    Recipe from Delicious Italy:

    ingredients
    1 egg
    5 egg yolks
    150g lard or butter
    150g sugar
    220g flour
    1 teaspoon yeast
    grated rind of 1 lemon

    Preparation: 
    Beat the egg together with the sugar then add the lard, flour, grated lemon rind and yeast.
    Mix together to roll out a soft pastry or 'pasta sfoglia', but not too soft and not too thin.
    Take enough of the pastry to fill the base and sides of a small mould of choice, then fill it with a favourite filling such as jam, nutella or a classic chocolate cream.
    A traditional filling in the province of Chieti includes chopped almonds, cinnamon and mostocotto.
    Once cooked the ingredients combine together to make a jammy consistency.
    Cover the top with another piece of pastry.
    Place in the oven for 15-20 mins at 150°c and sprinkle with icing sugar.
    Remember that bocconotti should really be eaten cold.