Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Mom on Reading Between the Wines

I generally don't write about the books that I work on here. I find that I mention many authors or occasionally reference the books in passing, but as this is not an official UC Press blog, I avoid reviewing my books. Despite the significant overlap between my work and personal lives, reviewing the books I work on here seems a bit flackish. That said, today I present a review of one of my fall titles.

First, a story. This past spring, after more than 35 years and a long run of Best Independent Bookstore awards in the Hartford Advocate, my mother closed her bookstore. Which is both a good and bad thing. Now she has time for gardening and travel and movies and all of those things you can not do when running your own store. She is even coming to visit next month! But she is also not surrounded by books all day and I know that she misses it. She also can no longer hand sell the books I am working on by explaining to her customers that it is her daughter's book. They generally got placed on the front counter for easy access.

On the other hand, she now has more time to actually read books. So, I send recommendations, mainly for mysteries and very rarely even books. But as she is neither a wine expert nor an academic, many of the books I work on are not ones she is likely to sit down on a Sunday afternoon and read. But, sometimes it happens.
A couple of weeks ago when my advance copies of Terry Theise's Reading Between the Wines arrived, several were damaged. Not too damaged to read and enjoy, but too damaged to send out to reviewers or the general public. As a former bookseller, my Mom would not be offended to receive a slightly gluey copy. She likes wine, although she herself would say that she is far from an expert. But I thought that just maybe the book would speak to her. And, well, as I said, it was kind of sticky.

So I sent a copy and waited. It turns out that I did not wait very long. As I reported a week ago on twitter, she called me at work a few days later to say that she could not put the book down. (And, no, it was not just the glue.) I asked her if she would mind telling me why. I'll paste her review below because as much as I am looking forward to more traditional reviews, this one is special.

Amy, no wonder you have such a high regard for Terry Theise. I'm reading a preview copy that you sent me of "Reading between the Wines" And, I am both amazed and delighted by his book. It's concise and poetic, charming and edgy, romantic and practical, and informative--but, not pedantic. I am loving this little book which is both philosophical and sensible. Everything that he says about wine is a metaphor about living an holistic life--awareness, appreciation, acceptance, and openness. Bravo to him and to your publisher for printing this small gem! Love, Mom P.S. It's also very funny!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Stage 20 Paris!

The 2010 version of the Tour de France ended this morning as Mark Cavendish won rather easily out of the pack on the Champs Élysées. This was a repeat of Cav's rather exciting win last year. As my daughter would be happy to tell you, I yelled Go Mark or even Marky at the tv this morning.

I should probably do both a cycling and wine round up at some point. We shall see. For now, a few brief moments to remember:
Cobbles, Crashes, Fabian!
Cadel in yellow with a broken elbow, The rare George spotting (usually falling off the back),
Frenchmen winning stages, Chaingate, Vino attacking and attacking again, Any Jens! sighting,
Cav's 5 stage wins, Lance's farewell: say what you will, without him we would never have been able to watch live. So, thanks.

Yellow: Contador
Stage: Cav!
Green: Petacchi

To drink:
We end as we began with champagne. Another Alice Feiring suggestion from New Year's.

Leclerc Briant "Les Chêvres Pierreuses" Single Vineyard Brut Champagne

They say:This Champagne is composed of 41% Pinot Noir, 19% Meunier and 40% Chardonnay from a seven-acre vineyard that is the steepest of the three offerings. Perhaps the most plain delicious of the three wines; this Champagne has great fresh apple fruit, lightly toasted bread notes and good refreshing zing. It amazes me that a wine can be so distinctive and complex while still maintaining such easy going charm. A fantastic aperitif! (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne and Sherry buyer)

I say: Hard to taste champagne after 19 pies, but am hoping the bubbles will be good for me. Crisp but with some nice toasted notes.

And yeah, we tasted some pie at the SF Food Wars Pie or Die Challenge. K voted Banana Cream, I voted Sour Cherry Berry. We'll wait for results.





Saturday, July 24, 2010

stage 19 The Time Trial

Bordeaux to Bordeaux
I suppose for most non cycling fan, the Time Trial makes more sense then many of the other racing days. Each man is sent off the ramp individually and is in complete control of his own race. Theoretically you could catch the rider in front of you or be caught by the one behind, but that is not typical. Instead, a rider spends his time alone on the bike, racing a course with nothing in mind but speed. The current master of this discipline is Fabian Cancellara, the winner of today's stage and as a friend keeps reminding me, one of the best looking cyclists around. One could quibble with that, but in truth, watching him on a time trial bike should be standard training for anyone who wants to learn the sport.

Stage Winner: Fabian Cancellara
Yellow: Alberto Contaor
Green: Petacchi

To drink still avoiding red Bordeaux and celebrating I have opted for:

Château Roûmieu-Lacoste 2000

Cause, honestly I had it in the house.
They say: Belonging to Hervé Dubourdieu, Roumieu-Lacoste is a Cru Bourgeois from Barsac and offers light, complex and fruity sweet wines. Roumieu Lacoste is light in colour and full of rich aromas of candied fruits and spices on the nose with good length and sweetness on the palate. Its freshness and liveliness makes it perfect with foie gras.


I say: After canning 20 pounds of tomatoes today I needed a treat. This is it. In fact, time to drink a glass and relax. Tomorrow, on to Paris!

Friday, July 23, 2010

Stage 18 Cav!

Salies-de-Béarn > Bordeaux (198 km)

At the start of the Tour, there are always a few stages that clearly appear to be for the sprinters. Today was one of them and it did not disappoint. Like most of these long, flat stages, it featured a doomed breakaway and the eventual regrouping of the peloton as they neared the finish. Today's winner, to my delight was Mark Cavendish. I admit it, I am charmed by the immensely talented, often out spoken and arguably world's fastest cyclists. One of the most amusing moments from the dull until the last two minutes was the image of Cavendish in the peloton pretending to urge the race forward, imaginary whip in hand.

Yellow: Alberto Contador
Stage winner: Mark Cavendish
Green: to my disappointment, Petacchi

To drink: Well, a traditional Bordeaux would have been too obvious. Also, something I do not keep on hand. So for our two days in Bordeaux I am going white. Tonight Bordeaux Blanc and tomorrow Sauternes.

08 Chateau Ducasse

They say: The old vines are 55% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon, and 10% Muscadelle. There is a gunflint aspect, along with citrus perfumes like citronelle and orange blossom. On the palate too, freshness, and liveliness, which mirrors the exquisite bouquet.

I say: Clean, crisp, easy.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Stage 17 All Over But the Shouting

Barring any mechanical issues, Alberto Contador won the Tour de France today. Which saddens me for two reasons:
1 We will always wonder what might have happened had Andy Schleck's chain not dropped
2 The race is almost over. Having done Giro wines and Tour wines, I'll be skipping the Vuelta to spend my August with Riesling.

Today's stage was a great one, though I found the ending sad. I am just not a Contador fan. And as mentioned above, he most likely won today not by attacking but by marking Andy Schleck all day.

Yellow: Contador
Stage win: Schleck
Green: Thor

To drink: 2005 Clos Lapeyre "La Magendia" Jurancon (375ml)

They say:
From Clos Lapeyre comes this unctuous 100% Petit Manseng, fermented in new oak barrels. Nuances of exotic fruits (pineapple, mango, passion fruit). Powerful, yet controlled toast and vanilla flavors, with a hint of additional wood spice. Plenty of fat on the palate is accented by a citrus note on the finish which helps lift the fruit to new levels. Rich, sweet and delicious, with fine length. 13.5% abv.

I say: I've been looking forward to this one. I have plans for Sauternes Saturday for the time trial so this is a nice "appetizer." This is not a little wine, fruity and well balanced. Nice acidity and indeed some citrus.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Stage 16 and a Confession

So not only is this post a day late, but I must confess that I did not drink my Tour wine last night. Instead, I was lucky enough to join Charles Olken and Stephen Elliot for a tasting of 07 and 08 pinots for their CONNOISSEURS' GUIDE to CALIFORNIA WINE. It was an offer I did not want to turn down, especially as we are publishing a revised edition of their classic book this fall. So I enjoyed the pinot, placed my votes on tasting favorites and ignored my planned French wine. Apologies to any who care. But, really, you would have done the same thing.

Today, Wednesday, is a rest day and I will taste French wine tonight. Which remains to be seen. After a day of baseball and a poor showing by the Red Sox, refreshing may be the key.

Yellow: Alberto Contador
Green: Thor Smash!
Yesterday's stage winner:
Pierrick Fedrigo (despite a valiant final effort by Lance Armstrong that excited the announcers to a frightening extent.)

Monday, July 19, 2010

Stage 15--The Curious Chain Incident

Well, well, well. Turns out surprise does lurk around every corner or perhaps at the top of each hill. On the day we anticipated a showdown between Andy Schleck and Alberto Contador, we had instead endless internet discussions about cycling etiquette. What is clear, is that while attempting a move today, Andy Schleck dropped his chain. Why is for those who know more about bikes to explain.
What happened next will be debating for a long time as Contador, Samuel Sanchez and Dennis Menchov then took off up the hill rather than waiting for Andy to fix his bike. By many accounts, this breaks quite a few unwritten cycling rules. While Contador claims, despite evidence to the contrary, that he did not see what happened, I have yet read any comments from Sanchez or Menchov. What is clear is that Schleck failed to catch back on and lost his yellow jersey. The fall out remains to be seen, though I probably owe an apology to my neighbors for the profanities I screamed at the tv this morning.

Stage winner: Thomas Voeckler
Yellow: Alberto Contador
Green: Petacchi

Wine: 2008 Clot de l’Oum Compagnie des Papillons

Jon Bonné says:Made by Eric and Leia Monné. . . from numerous organically grown parcels near Maury in France’s Roussillon region, it’s a mix of equal parts Carignane and Grenache from approximately 60-year-old vines, with a bit of Syrah added in. That mix would tend to make you think bright and fruity, but it’s a dark beast to behold, aged in older oak and delivering its wares at 12.7 percent alcohol, further testament to the wonders of old vines. The Carignane hits you on first sniff: Wilting lilies crushed by dark stones, with a delicate plum fruit and that tart cherry. But then it’s astonishingly light on its feet, leathery in moments and salty in others, all about the promise of deep fruit rather than the delivery.

http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/jonbonne/2010/05/20/in-my-glass-clot-de-loum/

I say: Read what Jon has to say. He is a professional after all. I'm amused that on a stage I did not consult with him, I have ended up with a wine he wrote about. This one came from Jason at Solano Cellars, who provided me with most of my Tour wines. That said, deep in color, both fruit and flowers on the nose, lighter in taste than I would have expected (had I not read the paragraph above). Nicely balanced, with more acid than I would have anticipated, it paired nicely with the bacon in my BLT.