Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Wines of Croatia Tasting



First a few maps, because, I like them. The first shows Croatia's location within Europe, important to those of us who are old enough to have grown up with a very different map of Europe, and the second, some detail of the country itself. As for the country itself, the CIA World Factbook (I couldn't resist) tells me that "The lands that today comprise Croatia were part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the close of World War I. In 1918, the Croats, Serbs, and Slovenes formed a kingdom known after 1929 as Yugoslavia. Following World War II, Yugoslavia became a federal independent Communist state under the strong hand of Marshal TITO. Although Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, it took four years of sporadic, but often bitter, fighting before occupying Serb armies were mostly cleared from Croatian lands. Under UN supervision, the last Serb-held enclave in eastern Slavonia was returned to Croatia in 1998. In April 2009, Croatia joined NATO; it is a candidate for eventual EU accession."

As for the wine, Croatian wine is not something I know very much about. I've tasted a few here and there, but not enough to reach and conclusions. I would guess that statement puts me in with the majority of wine consumers. So pre-tasting I did some research. 
The internet told me that: Croatian wine has a history dating back to the Ancient Greek settlers and their wine production on the southern Dalmatian islands some 2,500 years ago. Today there here are over 300 geographically defined wine regions with 17,000 registered vine growers, 33,000 hectares of vineyard surface area and 61 million liters of wine produced each year. Although there are more than 200 varietals grown, 60 of them indigenous, the major three, Grasevina (welschriesling), Malvazija (Malvasia Istriana) and Plavac Mali account for 47% of what is planted.
With that background it was time to head to Sebastapol for a tasting courtesy of Marcy Gordon and Frank from http://www.bluedanubewine.com/:

1. CORONICA -- Malvasia--Istria  2009
2. KORTA KATARINA--Pošip--Island of Korčula 2008
3. KRAJANČIĆ--Pošip--Island of Korčula 2009
4. ENJINGI--Venje--Slavonia 2003
Graševina, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminac
5. TERZOLO--Teran--Istria 2008
6. PIQUENTUM--Teran--Istria 2008
7. MILOŠ--Stagnum Plavac Mali--Pelješac Peninsula 2005
8. KORTA KATARINA--Plavac Mali--Pelješac Peninsula 2006
9. SAINTS HILLS--Dingač Plavac Mali--Pelješac Peninsula 200
10. BURA--Dingač  Plavac Mali--Pelješac Peninsula 2007
11. ZLATAN PLENKOVIĆ--Crljenak Kaštelanski--Island of Hvar, Makarska 2008
Plus 3 add-ons: both a Grgic Pošip and Plavac and a Korta Katarina rosé

So what did I think? Well, in general, I found the whites and rosé more to my taste than the reds. The whites were fragrant and herbal with lots of minerality and acidity. Refreshing and crisp, they were perfectly suited to a warm day on Marcy's back porch.

In contrast, the reds were big wines. I found them very fruity, but also hot." Frank mentioned that some of the entry level reds have alcohol levels around 13% but everything we tasted was over 14% with some 15% and above. Indeed, the Saints Hills, with a 15.5% abv was designed as "designed to be the cult wine of Croatia."  Otherwise put, not a Sunday afternoon sipping wine. I thought they called out for a meal and think they probably show better with food, though am suspicious of the suggested pairing of the MILOŠ--Stagnum Plavac Mali and oysters. They were concentrated wines, reminiscent of zinfandel, which is not surprising given that researchers have found a connection between the grapes.
In all, an excellent introduction to a region. 

Saturday, August 20, 2011

On Not Drinking the Wines of the Vuelta

The Vuelta starts today. The third of the cycling Grand Tours, it follows the Giro and the Tour de France. For both of other tours, I pair a wine to each stage. I've done it for several years and very much enjoy the planning and the opportunity to drink outside of my comfort areas. Though, I admit to Riesling cravings. 

This year, l thought that perhaps I should try the wines of the Vuelta. Because, to be completely honest, I know very little about Spanish wine and I figured it would be good to learn. I even thought that this might be the tour to pair food and wine. Something that some year I will be organized enough to do.  But then my position was eliminated at work. So there went the wine budget. And despite a wine rack reorganization project and a careful search, it became clear that I did not have a single bottle of Spanish wine in my home. That is right, of the of 400 or so bottles here, not a single one is from Spain. Which, is kind of odd and something I should probably rectify. But, not today. I've got a Street Food Festival to attend after all.

So like the cyclists who sometimes do the double (two tours) but never attempt all three, I'm taking the Vuelta off. I'll be watching, indeed, I am watching the Team Time Trial as I write. But there will be no wines to pair. Perhaps next year? Or maybe what I really need is a trip to Spain.

Note: It has been pointed out to me that I do have two bottles of rioja in the stash of 2002 wines I am saving for K. I had put them away and forgotten all about them.


Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Cocktail Party Suggestions


Party Cat Willow after a long night.

A confession: I have about 12 posts partially written, but K is off of school and camp this month and I am job searching and well, avoiding reality by planning a cocktail party. Which is exactly the sort of thing I tend to be slightly ocd about. So, I'd love some thoughts on things like :

• Your favorite cocktail party recipes, make-ahead if possible.
• Little plates or just fingers and napkins?
•  Is a cocktail party dinner (for me, usually) or not?
• How many kinds of pickles are too many?
• Many bottles of one kind of wine or a mixed case or so?
• Cheese: Crackers or bread?
• Is there ever too much pate?
• Am I the only one who truly loves deviled eggs?
• Pimento cheese: Is celery really the best option?


Your questions and comments very welcome!

K's favorite parties involve cookie decorating

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Chicken Liver Pate

So after skipping Charcutepalooza for a few months due to travel commitments, this month we planned on participating. A terrine sounded doable and indeed, I may still try one by deadline day. But today, we opted for pate, indeed, three different chicken liver pates. Because, well, we generally choose multiple options. There were two basic variations: the Chicken Liver Mousse from The Balthazar Cookbook and the Chicken Liver Parfait from Michelle Bernstein's Cuisine A Latina, involved combining ingredients while raw and then baking in the oven in a hot water bath and before chilling. The second technique involved sauteing the chicken livers and additional ingredients before combining and then chilling, used in the  Bourbon Chicken Liver Pate from Epicurious. The Epicurious recipe also used butter as a binder, whereas the other two used egg, in the case of the Bernstein recipe, 12 yolks and half and half, making almost a chicken liver custard. The Balthazar version was a hybrid, using one egg and butter, although we substituted duck fat for part of the butter. We also used Charcutepalooza bacon for the Bernstein recipe. 

My favorite, happily, turned out to be the simplest of the bunch, the Epicurious recipe. 

Bourbon Chicken Liver Pâté
Gourmet  | November 2003 

Unlike usual, we made the recipe as described, though we did eliminate the clarified butter covering. 
  • 1 stick unsalted butter
  • 1 cup finely chopped onion
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1 pound chicken livers, trimmed
  • 2 tablespoons bourbon
Melt 1 stick butter in a large nonstick skillet over moderately low heat, then cook onion and garlic, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add herbs, salt, pepper, allspice, and livers and cook, stirring, until livers are cooked outside but still pink when cut open, about 8 minutes. Stir in bourbon and remove from heat. Purée mixture in a food processor until smooth, then transfer pâté to crock and smooth top.

Chill pâté until firm, about 30 minutes, then cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 2 hours more. 


I simply could not take a pretty picture of our pate. Alas.









Saturday, July 30, 2011

Cats and Muscat

Still suffering from withdrawal symptoms from the Tour and dealing with the recent job news. I have a piece on my Mosel visits in process, but for now, cats.

Heidi Schrock Muscat '08. The importer says: At first the Sauv-Blanc is prominent – somehow – and Muscat is a high note imposed atop it, but this shifts with each sniff, growing catty here and orange-blossomy there; a creamy hologram of shifting exotic flowery spice that leads into a white-pepper finish.

I say: Hard to know exactly why this has been a comfort wine for me. Note the past tense,  as this seems to be my last bottle. I can agree on orange blossom and white pepper, but more importantly, this is in simplest terms, a happy wine for me. Said importer once wrote in an email, "that wine’s a lot of fun," and some nights that is enough. Especially when the Red Sox have just gone up 10-2 on my TV.

And speaking of cats and comfort, the pride:


Violet on the left, Willow in the middle, and Oolong on the right.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Tour de France Stage 21

http://www.letour.fr/2011/TDF/LIVE/us/2100/etape_par_etape.html
From LeTour: “It has been the tradition since 1975 for the Tour de France to end with a prestigious stage finish on the Champs-Élysées. At the start in Créteil, we will remember Laurent Fignon, who held a licence with the local club. In 1989, his duel with Greg LeMond maintained the suspense right to the finish, where Fignon was sure that he would be the winner. That was the only occasion that the final stage was run as a time trial. Every other time, it has been a road stage that has been decided in a bunch sprint, except on four occasions. Those exceptions were the victories taken by Alain Meslet in 1977, Bernard Hinault in 1979, Eddy Seigneur in 1994 and Alexandre Vinokourov in 2005. It is incredibly hard to get a telling gap on this stage when breakaway riders are always within sight of the peloton.”

We have reached the end. Three weeks, thousands of miles and a compete disruption of my sleep schedule have come to their expected conclusion--a dramatic sprint along the Champs-Élysées. I have said this before, but my love of the sport stems from coincidentally being in Paris for the final day of the tour in 1998. I was charmed. Each year since, I have said that I will return to watch. It hasn't happened yet, but as they say: There is always next year.

The day began with the four jersey holders (Evan, Cavendish, Sanchez and Rolland) at the front, along with the two Norwegians, Thor Hushovd and Edvald Boasson Hagen, for a moment of silence to honor the victims of the recent tragedies in Norway. 167 riders started today, which means that 31 have dropped out along the way, many due to crashes. A special shout out to one of my favorites with a stat that amazes me: Riding in his 16th race, George Hincapie has now ridden for NINE tour winning teams, seven with Lance Armstrong, one with Contador and today for Evans. Fingers crossed that he comes back next year to complete what would be a record setting 16th tour as he did not finish his first attempt. 

Next up was one of the scenes I have come to expect: The yellow jersey wearer drinking champagne on the stage. Indeed, a glass was passed from the team car to Evans. I wondered, as always, exactly which champagne?

Meanwhile, back in the race, it was time for some actual racing as teams struggled to get riders into a break. That established, it was time for the intermediate sprint point. Important of course, because unlike the other jersey wearers who were enjoying a relaxed day, Cavendish's green jersey was still in play. With six riders up the road, Cavendish easily took the seventh place, padding his lead slightly. However, rather quickly afterwards he flatted, adding additional drama as he had to use some energy to catch back on as the tv coverage treated us to the beauty of Paris. 
As expected, the teams with stage win dreams came to the front, intent on bringing the break back in time for some final drama. And: Cavendish! The stage win, number 20 for him, and the green jersey after yet another brilliant performance by team HTC. Now I can hope that Cavendish and Renshaw remain together next year.

Stage: Mark Cavendish
Yellow and our winner: Cadel Evans


Wine: As is tradition, champagne: H. Billiot "Brut Reserve"

From the importer (I'm not objective, but will say that his book is a joy. Note that a paperback edition is coming with fall with a new preface): 

Henri Billiot at a glance: 100% Grand Cru, particularly satisfying Pinot Noir here. Fresh, bracing red-grape Champagnes with long, swollen mid-palate flavors. Just 5 hectares in size, so availabilities are scarce!  How the wines taste: Billiot does not filter his wines, and they never undergo malolactic fermentation. That makes them very frisky and reductive when they’re first disgorged, and occasionally a Billiot bottle will show a slightly metallic aroma for the first few minutes. That’s rare and nil if you hold the wines six months after disgorgement. Billiot seems to want liveliness most of all, as he can presume upon lavish and deep fruit flavors.
 If you know the wines of Egly-Ouriet (Billiot’s friend and neighbor) they couldn’t be more different. Egly pulls  you down into its mealy-ripe depths; Billiot lifts you up on a billowing fountain of fruit. His wines have marvelous stamina and brightness. They’re hedonistic but not sloppy. Too firm and impeccable to be sloppy! 

My thoughts: I actually consulted with said importer, as I was deciding between this and another bottle. He said "Billiot if you want something full and sumptuous" and as this is a day of celebration, that sounded just about right.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Tour de France Stage 20 The Time Trial

After almost three weeks on the roads of France, it all came down to the time trial. A fitting end for a tour that has been unpredictable from the start. For those not familar with cycling's unofficial rules, the final stage of the Tour de France is a mainly ceremonial ride through Paris, with only the final sprint truly contested. So as the time trial started this morning, it was up Cadel Evans to make 57 seconds on Andy Schleck to win yellow. Most, myself included, expected that he would. In my case, I will even admit to yelling encouragements at the tv as he rode along.

Evans had a virtually perfect ride. Shortly after the first time check, he already held the virtual race lead and the lead only grew from there. Sunday, he will become the first Australian ever to win the Tour de France. Andy Schleck has now finished second in the Tour de France three times (well, depending upon the results of the Contador inquiry. 

In the battle for the stage victory, well, Fabian Cancellara did not win. Rather, Tony Martin did. Evans finished second, just 7 seconds behind. Alberto Contador in a last-ditch effort to finish on the podium  or perhaps simply to win the stage, finished third.

And a story from twitter: (Millarmind is the twitter handle of cyclist David Millar)
If you have tears, prepare to shed them now.
In team car being driven to hotel. Chatting to VdV & spot cyclist on autoroute ahead, dressed in full Europcar kit. Looks oddly familiar.
Chat stops, tell car to slow. As we pass have time to look into eyes of a tired and broken Voeckler. Tragic doesn't come close to describe.
 
 Stage:
1 Tony Martin (Ger) HTC-Highroad 0:55:33
2 Cadel Evans (Aus) BMC Racing Team 0:00:07
3 Alberto Contador Velasco (Spa) Saxo Bank Sungard 0:01:06
4 Thomas De Gendt (Bel) Vacansoleil-DCM Pro Cycling Team 0:01:29
5 Richie Porte (Aus) Saxo Bank Sungard 0:01:30
6 Jean-Christophe Peraud (Fra) AG2R La Mondiale 0:01:33
7 Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez (Spa) Euskaltel-Euskadi 0:01:37
8 Fabian Cancellara (Swi) Leopard Trek 0:01:42
9 Peter Velits (Svk) HTC-Highroad 0:02:03
10 Rein Taaramae (Est) Cofidis, Le Credit En Ligne


Current GC:
1 Cadel Evans (Aus) BMC Racing Team 83:45:20
2 Andy Schleck (Lux) Leopard Trek 0:01:34
3 Fränk Schleck (Lux) Leopard Trek 0:02:30
4 Thomas Voeckler (Fra) Team Europcar 0:03:20
5 Alberto Contador Velasco (Spa) Saxo Bank Sungard 0:03:57
6 Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez (Spa) Euskaltel-Euskadi 0:04:55
7 Damiano Cunego (Ita) Lampre - ISD 0:06:05
8 Ivan Basso (Ita) Liquigas-Cannondale 0:07:23
9 Thomas Danielson (USA) Team Garmin-Cervelo 0:08:15
10 Jean-Christophe Peraud (Fra) AG2R La Mondiale 0:10:11

Wine: I had plans for something French, I really did. But, while champagne is not negotiable for tomorrow,  today I could open something Australian : Torbreck Barossa 06 The Struie

From their website: The Eden Valley lies within the Barossa Range and consists of river valleys and undulating hills covered with large gums, rocky outcrops and Aboriginal sites. It is a high-altitude area of between 400 and 500 metres, compared with the Barossa Valley's elevation of 200 to 300 metres. This higher altitude, with its (one to two weeks) later ripening pattern, results in more distinctive varietal flavour characteristics, lower pH and higher acidities. Whilst the Eden Valley region is most associated with the white wine variety, Riesling, it produces elegant, tautly structured Shiraz which is highly prized by winemakers.
This Torbreck Shiraz cuvée from the cooler climate, higher altitude vineyards of Eden Valley is skillfully blended with fruit from Barossa Valley which traditionally provides greater richness and intensity. A blend of 44 year old Eden Valley Shiraz vines and 80 year old Barossa Shiraz, The Struie is aged for 18 months in a combination of old and new French oak barriques prior to bottling.

I say: Not a bad trade I made, as this is lovely. Dark berries, vanilla and cocoa. A long finish with integrated tannins. I probably could have aged this for a while to come, but it is breathing now and tonight, I'll celebrate Cadel's win with this and a steak from Prather Ranch.