Tuesday, May 23, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 16: Sabbio Chiese to Monte Bondone

Where are we? In Lombardia heading to Trentino.

Sabbio Chiese: The Giro tells me that The town is very ancient and it probably gave its name to Valle Sabbia. We can still find Roman signs and it was the religious focal point for Lombards and the Franks, as the Parish Church consecrated to Saint Michael Archangel can prove. Sabbio Chiese is dominated by its magnificent Rocca, a fortress that you can admire from different points of the valley. The Lombardy tourism site has a bit more about the Rocca; The Rocca di Sabbio Chiese was a place of defence and a lookout post for the population, who took refuge here in the event of assaults. It preserves a millenary history, the complexity of which can already be guessed by looking at the strange intersection of buildings from different eras that merge into its harmonious complex.
Originally a castle surrounded by three walls, at the beginning of Venetian rule the Rocca di Sabbio Chiese underwent a complete change of use, becoming a Sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna della Rocca in 1527. Of the various transformations that have taken place over the centuries, today there are two overlapping churches connected by two internal staircases: together with the remains of the ancient castle (including the entrance portal with the guard and the numerous underground passages), they form a rich, imposing unicum that is well worth admiring.

Regional Specialties: Among uncontaminated green landscapes and agricultural production still linked to ancient family traditions, Sabbio Chiese and the entire Valle Sabbia, welcome its guests with a precious range of agri-food products deeply linked to the territory: great cow’s and goat’s milk cheese, genuine sausages, honey and jam, mushrooms, mountain herbs, alpine water from Mount Maniva and thermal water from the spring Castello delle Terme di Vallio, truffles and unique fish products that surprise the taste of the visitor. There is no shortage of wild berries, honey, sour cherries, chestnuts and “Marroni” chestnuts.
Valle Sabbia is famous for the production of renowned fresh and seasoned cow’s milk cheese and delicacies deriving from the processing of goat’s milk, in particular cheese and yoghurt that you can’t miss.
In 1880 various social milk factories began to spring up in Sabbio Chiese and throughout the Valle Sabbia to spread the excellent products: Bagòss, Sabbio and Conca, Nostrano Valsabbia and Formaggella Valsabbina.
Among the edible plants that grow at high altitude we find wild radish and wild asparagus, that you can also enjoy preserved in oil. Widespread in the mountain streams and queen of the local fishing, the trout is really loved in Valle Sabbia as well as the perch cooked with mastery especially nearby Idro Lake.
Other delicacies that can be considered unique in their kind and which are found in the Valsabbina tradition skilfully re-proposed starting from the most ancient recipes, are bread and wild herbs gnocchi, the casoncelli with melted butter or the traditional “polenta taragna”. One of the most renowned dish in this area is “the spiedo”, meat on the spit that over time has become a symbol of a great, imposing, convivial dish for special occasions.

Monte Bondone:  Trentino.com tells me that At the western side of the Val d’Adige valley, near Trento, the Monte Bondone mountain is located, a mountain area which is very popular by the Trento people. On its slopes the mountain villages of Candriai, Vaneze, Norge, Vason and Viote are located. The peaks pass the 2,000 m mark and open the view on the Brenta Dolomites until the Adamello glacier.
In winter for skiers and in summer for hikers the Monte Bondone mountain is also accessible by public transport and a ski bus. In summer an area with plenty of hiking paths, mountain bike trails, climbing routes and much more awaits you. In winter the ski slopes offer pure fun, also more than 35 km of cross country ski tracks are available in the area of Viote. Gorgeous snow shoe hikes through the snowy woods complete the range.

Regional Specialties: Trentino’s cuisine is a melting pot of ingredients and methods, since it is at the junction between two climates and several culinary traditions. A rich local food & wine tradition which pays particular attention to quality and ensures both the purity and authenticity of the raw ingredients.
Authentic products like trout and char from mountain streams, Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Garda Trentino, organic vegetables, berries, Trentino’s cheese, milk product excellences and cured meat


The stage: Here we are into week three. It should be an adventure.
Time today perhaps for some gc action? 
Twenty kilometers to go and they had around 3 minutes over a peloton of about 50. Included in that group, the pink jersey. Into the last 15 kilometers and he was still there.
As they climb, some thoughts on the route, from the Giro site: Just think of the very first time it was included in the route by patron Vincenzo Torriani, in 1956, for a day that has not only made cycling history, but has become the stuff of literature, poetry, epic. When one thinks of old-school cycling, the 242 km Merano-Monte Bondone, the third to last stage of that 1956 Giro, immediately comes to mind, as does the name of the rider who dominated it in the snowstorm: Charly Gaul, the Angel of the Mountain. That morning it was raining in Merano and an icy wind foreshadowed a stage with few survivors, not least because Costalunga, Rolle, Gobbera and Brocon had to be climbed before Bondone. Gaul, shy and reserved off his bike but wild and reckless on it, went on the attack right from the first climbs, while the weather worsened kilometre after kilometre and the riders dropped out one after the other, including the Maglia Rosa Pasquale Fornara, who was forced off his bike by his sports director for fear that he might seriously hurt himself, despite his 16-minute lead over Gaul. A snowstorm broke out on the Bondone, Gaul staggered but continued through the fog and walls of snow and arrived at the finish line as the winner. Partially frostbitten, he had to be pulled off his bike, he fainted, they cut his jersey with a knife and took him to the hotel, where he was soaked in a hot tub for an hour. After a few minutes he came to his senses, and they told him what he had just done: he was the new Maglia Rosa and one step away from winning his first Giro d’Italia. That day, in second place, with a delay of almost eight minutes, came Alessandro Fantini, third at 12 minutes was Fiorenzo Magni who, having a fractured shoulder, was holding the handlebars with a tubular clenched between his teeth. Half the group retired. “Man driven to his limits”, headlined the newspapers the next day.

In the main bunch, UAE were in a majority, with four riders including leader Joao Almeida. Of the top GC contenders, Jumbo-Visma had two including Roglic and Ineos Grenadiers three with Thomas. Ten kilometers to go and the gap was down to a minute. In that group, the maglia rosa was clearly struggling. Could he limit his losses? He would not be the only one to struggle, as Pinot dropped off. Carthy looked to also be struggling. The pace Vine was setting at the front of the peloton had many in difficulty.
The favorites group had gotten very small very quickly. In the group: Zana, Kuss, Roglic, Thomas, Dunbar and Almeida. Zana was the first to drop from that group.
Attacking, Almeida. He would get a small gap. Coming across to him, Thomas.
Roglic was about 20 seconds down with Kuss and Dunbar.
Almeida with the stage win, Thomas back into pink. Roglic losing 25 seconds.

Stage:


GC:


The wine:The wine: 2018 Markus Prackwieser Gump Hof "Mediaevum" Vernatsch
From 2021
If vernatsch/schiava is an option, I am probably going to choose it. I do love a delicate red.
An importer tells me: The winery Gump (Gumphof) is nestled in the steep slopes at the entry of the Isarco Valley and its vineyards stretch from an altitude of 350 to 550 metres (1,150-1,800 feet) above sea level. The five hectare (ten acres) are planted with Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Schiava and Pinot Noir wines.

At an age of 28, Markus Prackwieser started a quiet transformation and has produced his own wine since. His wines have been sought after both nationally and internationally, especially his outstanding Praesulis Selection wine range. The name Praesulis derives from the nearby Castle of Presule.


The food:  Casoncelli from La Cucina Italiana
Nonna Ida’s recipe for Casoncelli fresh pasta (4 servings)
For the pasta dough: 

7 oz flour
2 oz durum wheat semolina
1 whole egg
1 tablespoon of oil
1/3 C water

For the filling: 
4 oz breadcrumbs
3 oz grated parmesan
3 oz ground meat for salami
7 oz of roasted beef
½ oz amaretti cookies
¾ oz soaked raisins
½ clove of garlic, minced
1 tsp. chopped parsley . 1½ tsp.
butter - salt - pepper - nutmeg - cinnamon stock

For the sauce:
2 ½ oz butter
2 ½ oz cubed pancetta
4 oz grated parmesan
sage
nutmeg

Recipe preparation:
Brown the minced meat, the salami meat, the garlic and the parsley with a pat of butter and cook for an hour, adding some stock. Allow to cool and add the breadcrumbs, the parmesan, the egg, the chopped raisins, the crumbled amaretti, pepper, salt and spices. Let it rest (it’s better if prepared a day in advance). For the pasta: mix the white flour, semolina flour, egg, warm water and oil on a pastry board or in a bowl. Let it rest for half an hour. Roll out the dough to a height of 1 mm, cut out discs, fill with the filling and close them by pinching the two ends. Boil the casoncelli in salted water for 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and season with grated parmesan and butter that has been melted and cooked to a light brown with pancetta and sage. Heed Nonna’s words: the water for the pasta dough must be warm; the dough must be very thin, and the filling not too sweet. Then, when you close them, do not use your nails, otherwise the casoncelli might break while cooking.
Posted by at 2 comments:

Sunday, May 21, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 15: Seregno to Bergamo

Where are we? Spending the day in Lombardy.

Seregno: The Giro tells me that Located along the route that from Milan leads to Como lake and Switzerland, at the intersection of one of the roads that leads east to the Lambro river, Seregno owes its characteristic features to this crossroads position. Historically, in fact, the village had developed thanks to the services that are connected to a place where people meet and develop commercial interests.
Today Seregno has more than 45,000 inhabitants and, despite being in a very dense urban area such as the Province of Monza and Brianza and with many large-sized urban cities, it maintains the peculiar and lively traits of a city that thrives on commerce, services for people and businesses. An industrious reality of Brianza, which however it is also a pole of attraction for leisure. A city that guarantees its inhabitants high standards of services in an urban context that is still “people-oriented”.


Regional Specialties: Brianza cuisine has many common traits with that of Milan, even though overall it is declined with less rich raw materials and is less open to external influences. The most characteristic dishes and products respond to the need to optimize the yield of raw materials and to dedicate not excessive time to food (intended as preparation and as consumption).
Hence the most characteristic dishes are dips, made with cheap ingredients (for example cuts of meat of lesser value) and, above all, the results of a quick preparation (which does not mean ready in a short time: the preparation often requires a long cooking, which takes place on the stove lit to heat the house).The sauce retains all the nutritional properties and all the flavour. These are dishes with a very strong taste, such as the “Cassoeula” (the name, strictly in dialect, does not have a convincing counterpart in Italian). It is a particular stew of pork (ribs and verzini, but also rind and, according to customizations, also snout and feet) and cabbage. It is a typically winter dish, according to the seasonal nature of the cabbage, which is better harvested after night frosts.
Cassoeula takes many hours of cooking: it can be put on the fire and left there, while you take care of other chores. The preparation does not fear excessive cooking or the need to heat leftover portions: indeed anything can improve the taste. Cassoela is traditionally accompanied by corn-meal polenta, in a single dish that is consumed faster than what happens with multiple courses.
Similar considerations can be formulated for tripe (“Buseca”), a common dish to all Lombard cuisine and beyond. It is a stew of meat made from the stomachs of cattle, a stew flavored with beans, tomato sauce, carrots and celery. Tripe is a “holiday” dish: many families still preserve the tradition of eating it as a Christmas Eve dish and it is present in the most popular festivals.
Another “holiday” dish is risotto with saffron, often proposed together with “luganega”, which is the most characteristic sausage of the Brianza area. 
Even the most typical Brianza dessert, the “Torta Paesana”, is an example of cuisine that pays attention to the use of raw materials. The dessert, in fact, was created to recycle stale bread, which is the main ingredient even in today’s most popular creations. Originally, the preparation involved macerating the dry bread with milk, sugar and eggs. At a later time, the addition of chocolate which has become an essential characteristic element of every recipe, which has many variations (in particular by providing fillings with raisins, candied fruit or pine nuts). Another simple and very typical dessert is the so-called “Pan Tramvai”, a simple bread mixed with raisins that gives it a very pleasant flavour.

Bergamo:  The Giro says: Many call it the Città dei Mille (“City of the Thousands”) because a significant number of the volunteers supporting Giuseppe Garibaldi in his expedition came from Bergamo, but this stunning city is generally more renowned for its most iconic zone: Città Alta (“Upper City”).
Indeed, when thinking of Bergamo, we often turn our attention to this upper and oldest part of the city, at the foot of which a more modern and bustling area of the city has grown and developed. The Città Alta is surrounded by its protective Venetian walls, fortifications built by the Republic of Venice that have cradled the houses and monuments of Città Alta since 1588 and which wind their way around this ancient section of Bergamo for over five kilometres: they’ve been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since July 2017. These walls have a special place in the hearts of all of Bergamo’s inhabitants, often enjoying them for a Sunday morning stroll or for a run as they gaze out across the Po valley.


Regional Specialties: The city of Bergamo is like a little crown consisting of many jewels: indeed, as well as its plethora of history and art, the city can also astound with its ability to please the palate, thanks to its long wine and food tradition, offering a range of delicacies that have made it become known as the “creative city for cuisine”.
In any traditional Bergamo restaurant you’ll find casoncelli, a dish consisting of the classic local elongated ravioli, filled with meat and usually served in a sauce of butter and sage. And then there’s the polenta made with corn flour and buckwheat flour, which becomes polenta taragna when Branzi – a traditional cheese from Val Brembana – is added. We must also not forget the cured meats and, in particular, salami from Bergamo. Furthermore, the province of Bergamo is littered with lush alpine pastures roamed by many animal herds, and has a cheese making tradition that’s been perfected over the centuries, hence why today as many as nine local cheeses have obtained the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) certification – with a total of 150, the province of Bergamo has more active alpine pastures than anywhere else in Italy. The most renowned of these local cheeses are Branzi, Bitto, Stracchino and Agrì di Valtorta, a list to which “Strachitunt” has just been added, a very old cheese dating back to 1380 that’s recently been revived and has risen to international fame thanks to the tenacity of a few farmers and producers in Val Taleggio. Bergamo is also the birthplace of the famous Gelato alla Stracciatella, which dates back to 1961 and was first made by the historic La Marianna pastry shop in Città Alta.

The stage: Another day for the breakaway? Maybe. So we had another not small group setting out.
Under 100 kilometers to go and their gap was around 6 minutes.
The news of the mornin was about the retirement of Mark Cavendish, to come at the end of the season. I will miss him.
Time for some pretty images of the stage:
There may not have been a lot of action on the day, but nice to see some sunshine.
With that sun, came crowds.
Not known as a climber, it was Bonifazio attacking his breakmates and getting a minute gap. Eventually, others would take off after him.
Eventually, it would again by the Healy show. He was followed by McNulty and Frigo.
McNulty would catch him. 25 kilometers to go and they had about 40 seconds on Frigo. The peloton was around 7 minutes back.
Frigo was gradually getting closer. Fifteen kilometers to go and it was around 20 seconds. He would make it to the duo, with 10 kilometers to go.
Just over 7 kilometers to go and the attacks started, with McNulty launching first.  Next, Frigo.
On the final hill, an attack by Healy. Going with him, McNulty. 3 kilometers to go and Frigo was down 15 seconds. Again making it back, Frigo.
McNulty with his first grand tour stage win. Well done.
Way behind, a little bit of action from the GC group as they hit the final climb.
Slipping back a bit, the maglia rosa. He would lose about 25 seconds, but keep the jersey.
Time for another rest day.

The wine: Cantina Furlani Rosso Alpino 
From 2017
From the importer:
Towering over the alpine city of Trento, at some 700+ meters of altitude, are the tiny parcels of vines tended by Matteo Furlani.  Matteo is the current custodian of his family plots high in the Dolomites; he is a fourth generation winemaker. 
After studying agronomy, not winemaking (he learned that from his father and grandfather) Matteo set his sights on working his land in the most natural of ways. Chemicals were never a part of what Matteo's predecessors used to tend the vines yet Matteo took an even more rigorous approach, incorporating biodynamic preparations and methodologies in the vineyards today. 

The food:  Polenta Taragna

Ingredients:
  • 1 lb buckwheat flour
  • ¾ lb cornmeal
  • 1 lb Valtelline Valley cheese
  • 7 oz butter
  • breadcrumbs
  • salt
  • 12 cups water

Put the salted water into a pot and, off the heat, add 1/3 of the butter. Bring it to the boil, slowly pour in the yellow flour then the buckwheat one, stirring continuously and trying to amalgamate well to obtain a thick smooth mixture.
 
During cooking (an hour or so) add the remaining butter cut into pieces, then, when almost cooked, the breadcrumbs. A few minutes before taking off the heat, add the Valtelline Valley cheese, cut into chunks: the best thing would be using a matured cheese and a younger one, for example Talamona or Gerola cheese.
 
If you are using Bitto cheese, you can put a little less butter, keeping the proportion of 1/3 buckwheat flour, 1/3 Bitto cheese and 1/3 of butter. Give a final stir with the “tarel”(or a regular wooden spoon) then pour into the “balsa” (the traditional serving plate) before the cheese is completely melted.
It is generally served with salami and pickles.

Posted by at No comments:

Saturday, May 20, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 14: Sierre to Cassano Magnano


Where are we? Leaving Switzerland and heading to Piedmont.

Sierre: The Swiss tourism site tells me that Siders/Sierre is advantageously positioned on the border between Upper and Lower Valais and on the language border between French and German. The Romans called it "the town of a hundred hills". On some of these hills, castles and fortresses were built and settlements grew up round about them. Today, these settlements have joined together to form the little town of Siders. At its heart are the richly decorated Town Hall and the picturesque Rue du Bourg, lined with historic houses and the parish church of Ste-Catherine.

Many artiss have fallen in love with the location and culture of the town. Perhaps the most well-known of them was Rainer Maria Rilke, who was so enthusiastic about the town and its surroundings that he lived here from 1921 until he died in 1926. There is a museum dedicated to the German-speaking writer.

Regional Specialties: A repeat of yesterday:  our specialty meats and cheeses are indescribably delicious. Our wildlife is further evidence that everything which comes from Valais is something quite special: Valais Blackneck goats, Valais Blacknose sheep, strong-willed, lovable Herens cattle that are typically native to our valleys.

Cassano Magnano: The Giro tells me that Cassano Magnago is an Italian town of 21560 inhabitants in the Province of Varese in Lombardy and its land area has an altitude ranging from 242 m. to 321 m.  above sea level.  Cassano Magnago,  originally “Cassiano Magniago”, was elevated to the rank of City after the Presidential Decree of 10th November 1997. The city has ancient origins, testified by the discovery of a cinerary urn attributable to the Golasecca Culture (from 1000 to 500 B.C.). The true symbol of Cassano Magnago is Saint Maurice Tower, dating back to the Late Roman Age, used as a signal tower and rebuilt as the bell tower of the church of the same name. The history of Cassano is the history of a territory which, without forgetting the old presence of the Visconti from the 18th century, began to host noble families from Milan and Gallarate as well as presenting archaeological, religious and naturalistic evidences represented by: Villa Oliva with Magana Park, Villa Buttafava, Visconti Castle, ex Church of Saint Julius, churches of Saint Mary, Saint Julius, Saint Peter, Saint Martin and Saint Anne, Remembrance Avenue, Oasi Boza e City Wood.

Regional Specialties: 
I purscelitt da Cassan: typical good luck cake of Cassano Magnago, made in biscuit or marzipan, but strictly piglet-shaped. It is said that Queen Teodolinda, passing through Saint Julius, didn’t meet a living soul except for a few piglets, the “purscelitt”, which rooted along the street. Struck by such manifest poverty, she took off the precious crown from her head and gave it to the Cassanesi, to get money to help the poor. From this legacy, the “Charity of the Crown Charity” would originate, with which the parish of Saint Julius supported the poor until the nineteenth century.
Chiscieau cunt i fig: leftover bread dough mixed with figs, raisins, sugar and butter
Frucch e maroch: sweets similar to amaretti, made of sugar and egg whites, whose name originates from the rivalry be-tween the inhabitants of the district of Saint Julius and those of Saint Mary.


The stage: A likely day for the breakaway and the peloton certainly agreed. The break had 29 riders!< Also, it was raining. 
Closing in on 60 kilometers to go and the gap to the break was around 13 minutes. Attacking, Bettiol. He would be caught. The next group to get a gap was Rex, Oldani, Ballerini and Skujins. Their gap would grow.
The look of the day.  
In the end, it would be a long sprint, allowing Denz to come around and take the win. See the video here from the Giro site. It would also be a new Maglia Rosa, Bruno Armirail, the first frenchman in pink this century. 

The new GC:


The wine: Wine: Castello di Luzzano Bonarda Frizzante - 2010 from Biondivino
From 2012
 
From the importer: 
Region: Lombardia
Grapes: 100% Croatina 
Altitude: 690 ft
Soil: clay and marl  
Total production (btls): 24,000

Vinification: The grapes are crushed and destemmed before fermentation, which sees frequent remontage. A short secondary refermentation in pressure tanks to give the characteristic light sparkle precedes bottling at the beginning of March.
Ageing: In stainless steel for six months. 
I say: A sparkling red wine that reminds me of a sparkling red vinho verde that exploded on us in Portugal. An unusual combo of the frizzante and deep red, dry flavors that made for a great pizza wine. Also, a truly gorgeous label. 

The food: Amor Polenta from La Cucina Italiana 
Ingredients:
1 stick butter, softened and at room temperature
1 cup superfine caster sugar (or powdered sugar)
⅔ cup polenta cornflour, plus a little for dusting
⅔ cup roasted almonds, peeled
1 tsp. baking powder
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
Powdered sugar, to garnish
2 tablespoons of Italian Strega liqueur (or an herbal liqueur)

Method: Use an electric hand mixer to whip the sugar with the butter. Add a pinch of salt and once the mixture becomes creamy, add the eggs and egg yolks one at a time, mixing until combined. Separately, mince the peeled almonds to make a fine flour. Combine with the all-purpose flour and the baking powder in a bowl and mix. Then add the flours to the egg, sugar, and butter mixture a little at a time, followed by the liqueur.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a semi-cylindrical mold and dust it with polenta cornflour. For this step, use a small brush to make sure the cornflour sticks to the entire surface. Once the mold is buttered and floured, add the cake batter, leveling it out evenly across the surface. Place in the oven and bake for around 40 minutes. (If you have a ventilated oven, set the temperature to 325°F and bake for 30 minutes.)
Before removing the cake from the oven, pierce it with a toothpick to make sure the dough is cooked through. Wait until the cake has cooled completely before removing it from the oven, then dust with powdered sugar before serving.

Posted by at No comments:

Friday, May 19, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 13: Borgofranco d’Ivrea to Crans Montana

Where are we? Heading from Piedmont into Switzerland

Borgofranco d’Ivrea: The Giro tells me that it is a small agricultural village, built towards the end of 1200 by the will of the bishop of Ivrea and the Marquis of Monferrato to constitute an outpost in a disputed area ( borgo-franco) Over the centuries and with ups and downs it has been transformed into the current residential complex at the confluence of an important road junction that connects Piedmont, Biella, Valle d’Aosta and from there France and Switzerland and on the Turin-Aosta railway line.

Regional Specialties: The Municipality of Borgofranco of Ivrea creating the brand De.CO . and bet on the enhancement of the local products and from that stems a narrow and deep relationship between the producers and the territory. All this needs to hold in count the elements of specificity of the typical products and in particular:
The link of the typical product with the territory and the importance from the specific resources of the territory. In the productive process of the product;
The collective character arising from the involvement of a plurality of producers between them.The link with the local community: the value of the typical product often goes beyond the businesses who commercialize it. T
he typical sweet is more known as “canestrello”; The “Canestrello” goes back at the medieval time, indeed during the feasts they prepared the Nebule, cakes made with flour and butter, these were used to pay for the performances of the actors-clerics and the organizers of the games. In Borgofranco the Canestrelli are produced and exported abroad, especially they arrived at the table of Late Queen Elizabeth of England which used to be an admirer . After the discovery of the Americas, the importation of cocoa in Piedmont (1650) was introduced.  This new ingredient was added, characterizing like this the Canestrelli of Borgofranco  D’Ivrea  as known today. Once the hot plates, that serve to give the mold and the typical shape, were warmed up  on the fire, now  they are  warmed up  electrically . These waffles , with various  flavors like lemon, vanilla and cocoa, still keep  their ancient traditional form: crunchy, very thin and imprinted with coats of arms of the  family,  these are the characteristics  that  distinguish  those of Borgofranco  of Ivrea.

Crans Montana: The local website tells me that The wealth of Crans-Montana lies in its heritage! The destination is not a tourist resort which is open just a few months of the year, it has a history, traditions, and no less than 10,000 inhabitants who live here all year round. 

Historically, territory was used vertically in transhumance, when the population moved between the vineyards, villages, the ‘mayens’, or mountain chalets, and the alpine pastures. The villages below the Crans-Montana plateau are privileged witnesses to this way of life, and even today, their inhabitants forge the identity of the region.

Regional Specialities:  If you like natural products, you will love what Valais produces. Here, we grow tasty seasonings and golden grains, wonderful fruit and excellent wines. Rich harvests infused with thousands of hours of sunshine, and the passion of our wine growers, herdsmen and farmers. Here, in these wild mountains, we have been learning how to reach the heights of quality for centuries.
The difference lies in the flavours: our specialty meats and cheeses are indescribably delicious. Our wildlife is further evidence that everything which comes from Valais is something quite special: Valais Blackneck goats, Valais Blacknose sheep, strong-willed, lovable Herens cattle that are typically native to our valleys.
In Crans-Montana, whether in the resort or on the pistes, when tastebuds quiver every gourmet will find what they’re looking for amongst the huge choice of restaurants which vary from mountain huts to Michelin-starred establishments.



The stage: Well, the information above reflects the stage as planned. Instead:
You can see thoughts from Adam Hansen, president of the Cyclistes Professionnels Associés here.  
Eventually, off they went and it was Pinot time, in what may be his final Grand Tour.
Hi Switzerland!
As they started the final climb on this shortened stage, the break has just under 3 minutes. Attacking his breakmates, Pinot. There would be lots of frustration on his part on the climb as he felt his companions were not taking strong pulls.
Behind, Ben Swift still led the bunch for Ineos, protecting the pink jersey. Fortunato jumped off the front of that group, to no reaction. Dropping from the front, Swift with Sivakov taking over the pacing duties.
Carthy! Will there be a reaction? No. There would not be.
In front, Cepeda was getting a gap on Pinot, but Pinot would make it back. Joining the duo, Rubio.
Attacking behind, Caruso.
After all that, Rubio who had appeared to just be hanging on, took the stage win.


The wine: Cave Caloz Corualin du Lieu- dit Les Berunes
From 2016
From FranklyWines
From the importer: 
The Caloz family established their domaine in 1960, setting up their home and cellar in the village of Miege which sits midway between the town of Sierre, at the southern end of the Valais, and the famous ski area of Crans-Montana. Fernand Caloz, father of the current proprietaire, began the arduous process of tending the vines in this mountainous region where the vineyards sit on steep terraces and must be worked by hand. Conrad Caloz, son of Fernand, joined by his wife, Anne-Carole, now manages the affairs of this small family domaine.
An expression of exuberant wild berries marks the best of the Cornalins produced in the Valais. Again, the exceptional exposure of the “Les Bernunes” vineyard permits the Cornalin grape to ripen well, producing a purple-tinted wine that is vivacious and lightly tannic in the finish

The food: Challerhocker Cheese
From Cheese.com: Challerhocker, pronounced "holler hocker", meaning "sitting in the cellar" is a Swiss cheese washed in brine and spices and then aged for a minimum of 12 months. Made from thermalized milk, the cheese is dense and smooth without any holes or cracks.  The repeated brine washing and extended aging reveal a great depth of flavour and texture unlike any Swiss cheese. Its initial aroma and flavour is a lovely concoction of roasted peanuts, melted leeks, brown butter, sweet cream and caramel. Made by cheesemaker Walter Rass, the lingering silky, salty finish of Challerhocker makes it an ideal cheese for the winter months. 
Posted by at No comments:

Thursday, May 18, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 12: Bra to Rivoli

Where are we? Spending the day in Piedmont

Bra: The local tourism site tells me that The town of Bra lies among Roero Hills and it is well known because of its culture, history and gastronomy specialties. Its origins go back to the Neolithic, but its history is linked to the Roman Empire and then to the Savoy dynasty, that left visible marks on the territory. Walking through the town it is possible to admire some masterpieces of the Baroque style, such as the rounded façade of the Town Hall and the Church of Santa Chiara, the museum of natural history, the museum of archeology and art and the Toy Museum. On the top of the hill, “La Zizzola” is now the symbol of the town as it hosts a multimedia museum, named the “House of Braidesi”. Bra is also famous for the gastronomy specialties and the several wines produced in the area, known all over the world. The main products are the “Salsiccia di Bra”, the famous veal meat sausage, the Bra Cheese which is celebrated in the famous Cheese Festival, the vegetables from the gardens of Bra and the famous sandwich Mac ‘d Bra, that hold all the tastes of the region in a single bite.

In recent years Bra has become one of the most representative towns in Roero and a real tourist destination thanks to many important events such as Cheese Festival, the Children’s Book Festival and the Easter Fair.


Regional Specialties: Bra is also considered a land of good food and excellent wines known and appreciated even beyond national borders. First of all the “Salsiccia di Bra, a peculiar type of veal sausage to be eaten raw and the only one authorized directly by the House of Savoy. The other well-known product is cheese, which is celebrated every two years with the International Festival “Cheese –  le forme del latte” T
he great attention to the quality of life and sustainable mobility and many activities to promote and protect local trade and local craftsmanship has led Bra to be one of the four Italian municipalities that founded the CittàSlow movement. A commitment which is testified by the numerous national awards received during the years, including “Spiga Verde” and the certification of Free Waste Municipality by Legambiente.

Rivoli: The Giro tells me that Rivoli is 13 kilometers away from Turin and 102 kilometers from French borders, and it’s located at the mouth of Susa valley. Today, Rivoli has approximately 48,000 inhabitants. Thanks to its ancient historical origins, Rivoli is one of the most distinctive art cities of Piedmont. Corso Francia, a spectacular road designed in the XIV Century, connects Rivoli with Turin and is one of the main roards of Turin itself. Corso Francia, with a total length of 11.75 km, is the longest straight roads of Europe. Rivoli is a place of history, and its buildings from the various Centuries are proof of this, the most distinguishing of which is the Castello di Rivoli (the Castle), which has been one of the oldest residences of Savoy family. The Castello is the symbol of the city and hosts one of the world’s most appreciated contemporary art museums.

Regional Specialties:  Rivolotto is the name of a biscuit, the fruit of the art of a group of confectioners and bakers from Rivoli. Rivolotto has been recognized with the “De.Co.” (Denominazione Comunale, an important recognition given to typical products historically linked to a place to preserve their genuineness and territoriality. The biscuit is unique in design, shape and taste and is the ambassador of the local masters of taste at institutional events. It was one of Piedmont’s products of excellence at the ATP Tennis Finals in Turin.
Rivoli is home to Aziende Agricole (“Farms”) Scaglia, Massola and Comba, breeding cattle of the Piedmontese breed, winners of numerous recognitions and awards. Azienda Agricola Scaglia proposes a simple yet revolutionary idea of slow-fast food at zero km, which aims at valorising the short supply chain and the excellence of the territory. A new food concept that revolves around using only the meat processed at the farm, obtained from animals reared in the area.
‘La Maggiorana’ is the first school of culinary art in Piedmont, established in 1973 by Elena Maggiora together with her sister Erica, who was recognized at the young age of 19 years as the youngest Cordon Bleu d’Italia and pupil of the most illustrious experts of international haute cuisine, from Gualtiero Marchesi to Paul Bocause. Courses at La Maggiorana explore Italian traditional recipes as well as re-elaborations and creations of Erika Maggiora.

 
The stage:On a day that seemed designed for it, a break.  It started out as a large group (30-ish), but eventually, there were four at the front with other groups spread out along the road.
While they race, let's look at some pretty images: At the front, Tonelli was struggling. It looked like the stage would be contested by the three remaining at the front.
With more riders dropping out of the race today, it is worth a look at this list. 
At the front, Berwick was yo-yoing. Could he hang on to contest the stage? Unclear.
But with a lot of time to play with, they were starting to play around and test each other.
Denz! Nice work by him. Behind that trio, the remaining riders from the early break would trickle across the line.


The wine: 001 Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino "Vigna dei Dardi" Barolo Riserva

From 2015 

From the importer:  If you are not yet familiar with brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino of Monforte d’Alba, here is a great opportunity to meet these Barolo veterans. Natives of Piemonte, they boast extensive experience crafting old-school, terroir-driven Nebbiolo. Alessandro managed winemaking for twenty years at the esteemed Bartolo Mascarello estate, before ultimately teaming up with his brother in the family cellars as the fratelli focused exclusively on their own production.
    The Fantino holdings in the steep Bussia vineyard of Monforte are crucial to this endeavor. They sustainably work old vines in the small Dardi sub-section, a perfectly exposed plot that gives rich, structured Barolo as good young as it is old. The traditionalist ways in the cellar, with spontaneous fermentations and an eschewal of new oak, only serve to highlight the impeccably farmed fruit from this time-tested site.

I say: Wow. Showing its age in the color. Rust notes in the red. Mature, but not old. Savory, spicy, really just a joy to drink. 

The food:  Bra Duro Starvecchio Cheese

Made in the Cuneo Province of Piedmont, this is the more aged Bra making it firm to hard in texture and more concentrated in its flavors of nuts, herbs and hay. 
Posted by at No comments:

Wednesday, May 17, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 11: Camaiore to Tortona

Where are we? Heading from Tuscany to Piedmont

Camaiore: Visit Tuscany tells me that located in a wide valley at the foot of the Apuan Alps, Camaiore is a city with historic foundations and owes its origins to the Romans; after establishing Lucca, they set up outposts on the slopes of Monte Prana. Among these was Camaiore, whose name comes from the ancient toponym Campus Major, the large plain that linked Lucca to the port in Luni. 
Later, this territory came under the dominion of the Lombards, followed by the feudal lords in Lucca, who re-established the town’s original blueprint. They began to transform it into the elegant medieval town that we can still admire today. During the Renaissance, control of Camaiore was passed to the Sforza, with little change until 1799, when the city fell into the hands of Napoleon’s troops who plundered many of its artworks.
Since the post-second world war period, Camaiore has become increasingly well-known. This is primarily thanks to Lido, a gorgeous and elegant seaside resort overlooking the wide beach of Versilia, which - since the beginning of the twentieth century - has attracted significant figures such as Gabriele D'Annunzio, Eleonora Duse and Vittorio Emanuele III with its beauty.
Regional Specialities: Camaiore is also a land of flavours, perhaps the most authentic and identifying of all Versilia’s cities: throughout the territory, food-and-wine reigns, offering experiential activities that represent part of its most important distinctive features.
A salty pie to try is undoubtedly the Scarpaccia. A particular name, almost funny, referring to the fact that, once cooked, the final product takes the appearance of an old shoe sole. Reference, however, not suitable for the taste: very tasty dish, it is based on courgettes and courgette flowers, whose scents are clear, not covered by a simple mixture of onion, water, flour, salt, pepper and oil. It’s perfect as an appetizer or as a picnic snack and it remains delicious even when cold, earning the label of Queen of Camaiore’s street food.
Also the historic Torta di Pepe, or “Torta co’ pizzi”, is absolutely characteristic: a pastry made with water, flour, eggs and salt is placed on a round baking tin and then filled with a mixture made with rice, chard, parsley, pecorino cheese, eggs, salt and pepper. It is necessary that the dough protrudes from the baking tin by (at least) two fingers, so as to be able to create the so-called “pizzi”: small “pyramids” of dough folded on itself that surround the entire cake. After having completed it with a sprinkling of pecorino cheese and having cooked it in a very hot oven for about 3-4 hours, it will be a true explosion of flavor in the mouth.
But the real characteristic dish of Camaiore are certainly the Tordelli. It is of course the most typical meal of Versilia, which was consumed by farmers’ families in peasant houses only on special occasions. That preparation is rooted in the territory, handed down from generation to generation, which over time has undergone various variations while maintaining unchanged the veracity of the taste. A minced of beef and pork, together with bread softened in broth, parmesan and pecorino chees, nutmeg, parsley and the inevitable “peporino” (i.e. thyme), create a filling of the traditional “tordelli” of fresh pasta. They must be seasoned with a good meat sauce and finished with a sprinkling of cheese directly on the plate. An unforgettable flavor. The true flavor of Camaiore served at the table.

Tortona: The Giro tells me that The foundation of the Roman colony Dertona dates back to the period when the Romans declared war on Celtic-Liguria between 123 B.C and 118 B.C.. Between 40 and 30 B.C. this area was again colonized by the Romans and was named Iulia Augusta Dertona.
Tortona is an Italian town in the Province of Alessandria, Piemonte, with 26,543 inhabitants, located on the right bank of the Scrivia stream between the plain and the hilly offshoots of the Ligurian Apennines, a few km away from the border with Lombardy.
When you arrive in Tortona, the first two images that well symbolize Tortona and its history are the bell tower of the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Guardia on which stands the golden statue of the Virgin and the ruins of the castle tower that stands out on Colle Vittorio. In the 1801 Napoleon ordered the destruction of many fortresses in Piedmont. The same fate befell the fortress of Tortona; the last bulwarks were destroyed in 1805, with the exception of the Bell Tower, which became the symbol of the town.

Regional Specialties: Among the most exclusive products of the area we mention the S. Pastore ancient wheat bread, the “Nobile del Giarolo” salami, the “Montebore” cheese in the shape of a wedding cake, the Tortona strawberry, the Volpedo peaches, the Garbagna cherry, and among the typical Tortonese dishes the “Anlot” or “Agnolotti” are served with the sauce that was used to make the filling; they can also be eaten in a clear soup or broth. However, the true anlot-lovers prefer to eat them “drowned” in Barbera wine.
“Pasta all’Ajà”, a typical dish exclusive to the Tortonese area and consists of a sauce made by grinding walnut kernels in a mortar with butter and a lot of garlic which is then poured over the homemade tagliatelle. Before pouring the sauce over the pasta you must add a few tablespoons of the water used to boil the pasta Homemade tagliatelle, seasoned with a sauce obtained by pounding walnuts, garlic and butter in a mortar. In the autumn seasons, to enrich the dishes on the table, there is no shortage of mushrooms and black and white truffles.
“Baci di Dama” are a product of the pastry-making art of the Tortona area. These biscuits are characterised by a fragrance and delicacy that is unique. The original recipe, originating only in Tortona, requires the use of almonds, an ingredient hard to find and more expensive than hazelnuts. This is one of the factors that distinguishes the production of these Baci; this is also a sign of the refined quality desired by the pastry cooks of Tortona.


The stage: Podium Cafe described this stage as "Another hilly day with a decent chance of a sprint."
8 non-starters  on the day, as Covid has been spreading throughout the teams.
Breakway? Check. Six riders this time.

But also a bad crash in the bunch, with Thomas and Roglic involved and Tao Geoghegan Hart taken away in ambulance.

Forty four kilometers to go and there was a one minute gap to the six leaders.
Word came that Sivakov, who has been in the earlier crash, was still riding, but was struggling behind the main bunch. As a potential helper for Thomas later in the race, his status was important.
Up front, the break was down to two, Stojnic and Rex. Their gap was under a minute with 35 kilometers to go.
Finally, it would be Rex solo at the front. 17 kilometers to go and he had only 23 seconds.
One almost felt like he reached a point where he almost wanted to be caught.  Indeed, he would be. A small crash led to a split group and a smaller group contesting the bunch sprint. Photo finish! Cavendish fans with some hope, but he would be third.


The wine: Monsecco 2012 Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo from Dig
From 2017
From the importer:  There is almost a religious reverence in the Alto Piemonte for Monte Rosa, the mountain that hovers over the region, the grand eminence that protects and nurtures the region. It is visible from all points whether one is in Gattinara or Sizzano or Ghemme, an eternally white-topped mountain whose melting snows form the Sesia river that splits Gattinara from Ghemme. The soils of these hills are marked by the mineral salts and the glacial moraine from millennia of geological movement. Further, sitting in the foothills of this part of the Alps and neighboring the great lakes of Orta and Maggiore, the vines are exposed to large variations in temperature, warm days married to cool nights: an ideal ambience for the noble Nebbiolo and the other local varieties, all of which benefit from the long growing season to reach proper ripeness while maintaining a lively acidity.

The food: Tordelli, from Visit Tuscany
Ingredients
1 kg of flour
10 eggs
1/2 kg of lean ground beef
1 chicken breast
2 pork steaks
2 ounces of mortadella
50 grams of parmesan
4 slices of dry bread
parsley and garlic
oil, salt and a little milk

The pasta
First, the pasta must be prepared. Mix 1 kg of flour with 5 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks, working the dough with warm water, a little oil and a few pinches of salt until it becomes soft. Let the dough rest for about an hour.

The stuffing
Cook half a pound of lean ground beef, one large chicken breast, and two pork steaks. Then chop the meat into very small pieces, add 2 ounces of mortadella, 2 eggs, 50 grams of ground parmesan, parsley and a minced clove of garlic. Combine 4 slices of bread left to soften in milk and mix the filling well.
Roll out the dough into long but not too wide strips, then place some balls of the filling in the center of the strips of dough and close them well. Cut them with a metal mold to create crescent shapes, these are the tordelli. Then let them rest for at least a day on a tray covered with flour, before cooking them in salted water for a few minutes. When they float, they are ready to be drained. They should be seasoned with plenty of ragù and parmesan!
Posted by at No comments:
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)