Tuesday, July 18, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 16: Passy to Combloux

Where are we? The Haute Savoie

Passy: The local tourist site has a hike for us: Departing from Sixt Fer à Cheval or Passy, ​​discover the Tour des Fiz! 
Between Vallée du Giffre and Mont-Blanc, the Fiz chain considers itself a magical site in terms of landscapes and nature. The diversity of natural environments therefore offers hikers a different opportunity each time to marvel at the beauty offered by the mountains. Circuits to compose yourself, from 2 to 4 days of walking , from the “family” circuit to the “sporty hiker” circuit…  
 A unique setting, with Mont-Blanc as a backdrop and a diversity of breathtaking landscapes that crosses the nature reserves of Sixt, Passy , ​​and the classified site of the Desert of Platé. This preserved space where man and nature meet requires the greatest care. Thus specific regulations apply in terms of fauna, flora, camping, dogs, traffic, etc. Moreover, do not hesitate to consult the information relating to these regulations on the ASTERS website. The hiking route is punctuated by 9 refuges which are spaced out for a maximum of 4 hours of walking and often less. Generally open from June to September, they offer single nights, half board and full board. Get ready to have your eyes full! In order to be well prepared: Consult the map of the route

Regional Specialties: fondue, raclette, polenta, croziflette, farcement

Combloux: We just hiked, so let's go swimming: Fancy a refreshing break in an exceptional natural setting? Nestled in the heart of the Alps, the biotope lake of Combloux is a preserved oasis combining refreshing swimming, relaxation, biodiversity and respect for the environment. Designed in an ecological way, this innovative site is distinguished by its layout that respects natural balances, favoring a rich and diversified ecosystem. Take advantage of the 1750m² pool, whose water quality is ensured by more than 10 aquatic plants. Due to natural water treatment, the number of people per day is limited.

Regional Specialties: fondue, raclette, polenta, croziflette, farcement, péla. Reblochon, tomme from Haute-Savoie.

Christian Prudhomme says: The only time trial of the 2023 race is characterised by its short distance and a profile that will suit those climbers who feel comfortable in this solo discipline. The famous Domancy climb is on the programme. At the same time, it provides an opportunity for the rider who’s in yellow to assert his superiority or for his rivals to begin a fightback that could last a whole week.

The stage: Individual time trial time.  The early excitement would be about times and which rider was currently in the hot seat. And there would be good times, but today it is all about the final two riders and the times they can muster.
One of the questions of the day: was a bike change necessary and/or beneficial Before the top GC riders started, it was Van Aert in with the best time of the day at 35:27.
On the road, Pogacar seemed to be losing time and a lot of it. But it is always hard to tell until the finish, as he could have gone out too fast.
Pogacar bike change. Vingegaard seemed to not be changing bikes.
At the third time check, he had over a minute. Remarkable to see and really unexpected. It is almost hard to know what to say, though Van Aert's tip of the hat from the hot seat seemed pretty right. In all, 1:38 over Pogacar.

Stage:


GC:


The wine: Domaine Jean Vullien Vin de Savoie Jacquere Blanc 2021
Christy says: Alpine wine to make you yodel. It's crisp and minerally - like a bracing breeze from the top of a mountain (or a very high hill) but with a bit of body to round it out. Chill it down and think of it as liquid air conditioning.

You can learn more about the grape here. 
I did enjoy the list of synonyms from Wikipedia: Altesse de Saint-Chef, Blanc des Ecoutoux, Buisserate, Cherche, Coufe Chien, yCugnete, Cugnette, Cugniette, Jacquère Blanche, Jacquèrre, Jacquière, Martin Cot, Martin Cot Blanc, Molette de Montmelian, Patois Rossette, Plant de Myans, Plant des Abymes, Redin, Robinet, Rossettin, Roussette, Roussette de Montmelia

The food: Farcement
Le Tour tells me that Farcement (stuffing) is a traditional Savoy sweet and sour dish dating back to the Middle Ages that can be served as a dish or a dessert. It has many variants depending on the valleys and villages, although there is a common base to all recipes. Its characteristic feature is the presence of dried fruit (mainly prunes, raisins and figs) in a savoury base, as well as the fact that, since the introduction of the potato, it has generally been the main ingredient. The recipe for farcement in the Passy region, cooked in a bain-marie in a special mould, has become the most widespread.

Recipe from the local tourist site:
1.5kg potatoes
25 thinly sliced streaky bacon rashers
50g raisins
A dozen stoned prunes
A dozen dried pears
2 eggs
10cl sour cream
salt and pepper 

METHOD
Peel and finely grate the potatoes. Wash the grated potato and dry it in a tea towel, before placing it in a mixing bowl. Add the raisins, prunes and pears cut up into small pieces, the eggs and the sour cream, stirring well to obtain a smooth mixture. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Lie the rashers of bacon around the farcement tin (this is a special high-sided tin with a tube in the middle). Then, pour the mixture into the tin and press it down gently. Cover the tin and place it in the oven in a double boiler. Leave it to cook for around 3.5 hours, gas mark 4 (180°C).
Turn the Savoie farcement out onto a dish and slice it ready to serve. 
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Sunday, July 16, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023: Stage 15 Les Gets Les Portes du Soleil to Saint Gervais Mont Blanc


Where are we? Climbing in the Haute Savoie

Les Gets Les Portes du Soleil: The tourist site tells me that located between Lake Geneva and Mont Blanc, 1 hour from Geneva airport, Les Gets is an integral part of the Franco-Swiss territory of the Portes du Soleil , one of the largest ski and mountain bike areas in Europe. Its location on a pass is ideal for exceptional sunshine in all seasons. Nestled at an altitude of 1172 m, in the heart of the Chablais massif, the resort of Les Gets is a natural, beautiful, preserved and lively holiday resort, where one is simply well, where one feels "like at home". House". As proof, the station benefits from the Quality Tourism label . Dating back to the 11th century, the village cultivates an art of living in the mountains, an authenticity and a conviviality that are highly appreciated by customers. It also offers a rich cultural heritage, as well as a carefully selected wellness offer. 

Regional Specialties: fondue, raclette, polenta, croziflette, farcement, Abondance (cheese). Tomme des Gets.

Saint Gervais Mont Blanc: Le Tour says The highest mountain in Western Europe rises to 4,808.73m and is located in the commune of Saint-Gervais. Every year, many mountaineers attempt to climb its summit via the “Voie Royale” (Kings Way), the most popular route which passes through the famous "Couloir du Goûter". The preservation of the Mont Blanc site is part of the environmental campaign led by the commune of Saint-Gervais since 2004 : "La Montagne à l'Etat Pur: pour ne laisser dans la montagne que la trace de nos pas" (Mountain at its purest: let’s leave but our footsteps in the mountain). Ten years of education and awareness-raising on the ground have borne fruit. Saint-Gervais has seen a definite change in attitudes, an encouraging promise for the future.  

Regional Specialties:fondue, raclette, polenta, croziflette, farcement, Savoy cheese (tomme, beaufort, emmental). 


Christian Prudhomme says: At the end of a demanding weekend, the stage is set for a crucial battle between the contenders. This particularly undulating route through Haute-Savoie will take the riders over the Col de la Forclaz de Montmin, then to the Croix Fry and the Aravis passes. The most impactful blows will probably be delivered on the final climb to Le Bettex in the Amerands climb, where some sections touch 17% gradient.

The stage: Up we go again. It was again a very active start for the day, including some more time at the front for Alaphilippe and Lutsenko. They had a large group chasing. Behind them, a crash with several down and many held up. It looked to have been caused by a spectator stepping too far into the road with an arm out. After yesterday's crash and then later motorbike incident, that was not what anyone wanted to see today.
At 115 kilometers to go, Alaphilippe and Lutsenko had about 50 seconds over the large chasing group. One sensed they might prefer to be caught and work with the group.
Under 100 kilometers and Alaphilippe and Lutsenko continued to dangle 30 or so seconds ahead of the larger group. Eventually, perhaps to their relief, they were picked up by the larger group. With 85 kilometers to go, that group of 35 had 8:20 over the main peloton. Under 75 kilometers and it was under 7 minutes. Jumping from the group, Haller. He would be caught and passed by Costa. 
On the road, more KOM points to Ciccone, who would tie Powless for the polka dot jersey points. There were still 20 riders in the breakaway group. 50 kilometers to go and they had just over 6 minutes to the main peloton. 
38 kilometers to go and there were 4 leaders: Van Aert, Neilands, Poels and Soler. They had about 20 seconds to the chasers and 6:20 to the peloton. Yikes, ugly crash for Neliands. A replay showed him attempting to get a bottle from the Vittel motorbike as they went around a corner on the descent. It looked like the front of the bike caught his rear wheel.
Under 30 kilometers to go and their gap had gone out to 50 seconds. Soler would lose contact on the descent, but would get back as the climb began. As soon as he returned, an attack by Poels. He would be chased by Soler.
There were still numerous chasers between the leaders and the, once again, rapidly shrinking yellow jersey group.
Amazing to think that this would be the first grand tour stage win for Poels, if she could hold on.
Behind only Adam Yates remained with Pogacar and Vingegaard.
Ahead, a stage win for Poels.
Behind, Yates surged ahead of the two. Back to them, Rodriguez. 
Finally, an attack by Pogacar, but Vingegaard would stay with him and they woudl cross the line together.

Stage: 

GC: 



The wine: Domaine des 13 Lunes La Nuit Nous Appartient 2019
100% Mondeuse
The producer tells me that the name translates to: The night belongs to us. This red wine is a 100% Mondeuse mono-varietal, emblematic of Savoy. Aged for about 12 months in oak barrels and in tuns. This gastronomic wine for laying down will accompany your red meats, grilled meats, etc.


The food: Crozets  Gratin

1 package of crozets, plain or buckwheat
20 cl heavy cream
150g Beaufort

Cook the crozets on a low boil in plenty of salted water for about 20 minutes.
Drain the pasta and pour it into a casserole dish. Add the fresh cream and mix a little.
Grate the cheese over the dish and bake in the oven.
Crozets go perfectly with meat, especially poultry.
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Saturday, July 15, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 14: Annemasse to Morzine les Portes du Soleil

Where are we? Climbing in the Haut Savoie 

Annemasse: The regional tourist site Annemasse, a city on a human scale in the center of the Geneva basin. Ideally located between the lake and the mountains, with direct access, you can use the voieVerte to discover the different districts of the city by bike or on foot. Close to the train station, Chablais Parc, with its modern and commercial eco-neighborhood, will allow you to eat and start your shopping. Then, head for the city center with its pedestrian zone, restaurants, shops and farmers’ market.
A dynamic city! Annemasse is a mix of cultures, a wide range of services and leisure activities, and a rich calendar of sports and cultural events. Are you looking for the Château Rouge or the Château Bleu (cultural scene vs. aquatic center)? Let yourself go to the rhythm of your desires. Stroll through one of the city’s libraries. Rejuvenate at La Bulle, stop by the contemporary art center. Enjoy the fresh air of the banks of the Arve or take part in one of the local events.
Urban at first glance, Annemasse has many surprises in store for you. Come and relax! Many green spaces are waiting for you. At the turn of a street, you will discover a park populated with hundred-year-old trees. A work of art is next to the public road. The modern is next to the old. A unique identity that marks the metamorphosis of the city.

Regional Specialties: fillets of perch, féras, ombles, lake trout. Chignin-bergeron (wine). Fondue savoyarde, potato-based bognettes, crozets, péla, tartiflette, diots, polenta, rioutes, longeole (flavoured charcuterie). Bugnes, blueberry pie.

Morzine les Portes du Soleil: The regional tourist site tells me that Located in the heart of the Alps, the Haute-Savoie resort has 2 tourist sites: Morzine, a charming village resort at an altitude of 1,000 meters, and the Avoriaz resort at an altitude of 1,800 meters. Located in the heart of the Portes du Soleil area and close to Geneva International Airport, Morzine is a must-see destination in summer and winter.
Lifts, ice rink, golf, aquatic area, pedestrian paths, mountain bike trails, summer sledding… The resort has a variety of quality infrastructures. Morzine, it is also bars, restaurants and a varied commercial offer.
The instagram images are idyllic. 

Regional Specialties: fondue, raclette, polenta, croziflette, stuffing, Abondance (cheese). 


Christian Prudhomme says: It’s unlikely that the riders will enjoy the view of Lake Geneva at the start of the stage, as the 4,200 metres of climbing will be on everyone’s mind, and especially the climbs of the Ramaz and Joux Plane passes. Everyone will also aware that they’ll need show some real skill on the descent into Morzine in order to claim victory

The stage: A terrible start to the day with a huge crash with many riders down or held up. So many that the race was stopped for a bit to riders to get organized again. Abandoning after the crash, Pedrero, Chaves, and Meintjes. A new crash further down the road would lead to the abandonment of Shaw and Bardet.

Under 120 kilometers to go and there was a large break with a 20 second gap. 
The break consisted of Kwiatkowski, Martínez, Pinot, Powless, Alaphilippe, Landa, Poels, Politt, Ciccone, Lopez, Geschke, Aranburu, Gorka Izagirre, Jorgenson, Woods, Houle, Neilands, Craddock, Champoussin, Lutsenko and Johannessen.
That group would come apart as they climbed. Surging to the front were Woods and Ciccone. 
93 kilometers to go and the lead five were Ciccone, Pinot, Aranburu, Woods, Landa and Poels. Their gap was not large and they would be joined by Lutsenko, Houle, Johannessen, Izagirre, Martin, and Martínez. 70 kilometers to go and they had 30 seconds. Word of another DNF, Sinkeldam.
60 kilometers to go and it was only Ciccone and Woods off the front with a small gap. Soon enough, they were reabsorbed into the peloton.
That peloton was rapidly shrinking and it would continue to shrink as the figh intensified. And what a battle it was between the two gc men, but neither would take the stage win. Instead, Carlor Rodriguez, with his first TdF stage win after going solo on the downhill.
Stage:


GC:



The wine: Domaine Jean Vullien Cremant de Savoie NV
An importer tells me that: While this alpine area of eastern France may be better known for skiing than viticulture, a cadre of Savoyard vignerons are producing excellent wines. The region’s best come from a boomerang-shaped string of hillside villages between Grenoble and Albertville (site of the 1992 Winter Olympics) called the Combe de Savoie (Combe is a word of Celtic origin meaning a sharp, deep valley). Jean Vullien and his two sons, David and Olivier, tend 69 acres on the Combe in the villages of Chignin, Montmélian, Arbin, St-Jean de la Porte, and their hometown of Fréterive. The domaine’s holdings include all of the region’s indigenous grape varieties, as well as strategically-placed parcels of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the boys both graduated from La Lycée Viticole in Beaune). The wines range from a crisp, lemon and mineral Jacquère-based white that British wine author Andrew Jefford would categorize as “Muscadet of the Alps” to complex floral and spiced reds made from Mondeuse. In recent years, David and Olivier have also earned a reputation for their excellent Méthode Traditionelle sparkling wines. Though the Vulliens have been making wine for 40 years, the family is perhaps best known as a leader in another segment of the wine industry. Since 1890, Vullien Pépinière Viticole (vine nursery) has been supplying young vines to growers throughout France. In fact, they were the source for about 25% of the Chardonnay planted in Chablis after the ravages of phylloxera.


The food: Fondue
Deviating from our normal recipe for this one, from the regional tourist site

– 30 cl of white wine from the Savoie (or dry white wine)
– 400 g of Comté*
– 400 g of Swiss Gruyère* (or Emmental or Vacherin)
– 400 g of Beaufort*
– 1 clove of garlic
– Pepper
– 1 tablespoon of mustard
– 3 cl of Kirsch (optional)
– 500 g of bread (ideally from a day-old country loaf)
– 1 item of salad
– 1 egg (for the end of the fondue)

*For a Swiss fondue, replace the Comté and Beaufort with Emmental and Sbrinz.

1. Pour half of the dry white wine into the fondue pot and allow to simmer for 5 minutes on a high heat.

2. Put the fondue pot on a low heat and gradually add your cheese to the pot.

3. Drizzle the Savoie white wine over the cheese several times, covering it generously.

4. Allow it all to melt, stirring continuously in a figure-of-eight pattern using your wooden spoon until the fondue becomes smooth and homogeneous.

5. Add a few drops of Kirsch, the mustard and a little pepper and allow to cook for 5 more mins, stirring continuously.

6. Serve your fondue with a salad and a good bottle of local white wine. Before the end of the meal, you can add an egg yolk, mix with the remaining bread and cheese and turn off the fondue.

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Friday, July 14, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023: Stage 13: Chatillon Sur Chalaronne to Grand Colombier

Where are we? Heading through the Ain  

Chatillon sur Chalaronne: The regional tourist site tells me that Châtillon-sur-Chalaronne, formerly Châtillon-les-Dombes, is located in the heart of Dombes in Ain, about 1 hour from Lyon. This medieval city of character, classified as the Most Beautiful Detours of France ,  Flowery City Four Flowers (Fleur d'Or) ,  Green Station ,  City and Crafts , House of the Illustriousand Apicité will seduce you with the richness of its preserved heritage and the natural beauty of its landscapes!
Let's go to the market: The traditional Châtillon market takes place every Saturday morning under Les Halles . Throughout the year, the producers follow one another to offer you: cheese, poultry, game, fish from Dombes, meat and charcuterie but also takeaway meals. A space is also reserved for live poultry. An exceptional setting and quality products that have earned it its title of 3rd "Most Beautiful Market in France" in 2021!
An organic market , organized by Lunab, was born in 2020. Every Wednesday morning, find around ten organic producers under the halls!

Regional Specialties: carp from the Dombes. Frogs. Pond fish goujonnettes. Water game. Breadillon from Châtillon-sur-Chalaronne. Wines from Bugey.

Grand Colombier: Le Tour tells me that this is the highest point of the Bugey (1,531 m), located in the south of the Jura mountain range, the Grand Colombier massif offers numerous marked hiking trails, mountain bike trails (GTJ) and a panoramic view of the Alps, Mont Blanc, the Bourget lake, the Rhône and the Bugey. 

Regional Specialties: Diots with Bugey marc, Bugey truffle, savoury (walnut and onion tart). Cheeses (Tome de Belley, Pavé d'Affinois, Comté in Arvière-en-Valromey). Sugar pie. Bugey wines (AOC), plant liquors from the Kario distillery, Seyssel AOP wines (Altesse "Roussette" and Molette), AOP Roussette de Savoie cru Frangy.

Christian Prudhomme says: The dynamic format of this stage, which takes place entirely in the Ain, will leave little room for doubt. The riders’ legs will certainly have to be sharpened on the climb to the Hauteville-Lompnes plateau, because a major challenge awaits the Tour’s favourites leaving Culoz: they’ll have to put all of their cards on the table for the ascent of the “Bugey pyramid”, which extends for 17.4km at an average gradient of 7.1%.

The stage: Bastille day and fireworks to start as attempts were made to form the break. Eventually a large group would get away, but they were given a short leash.
40 kilometers to go and they had about 3 minutes. That gap would grow. 25 kilometers to go and it was up to 4 minutes.
Up next: As soon as they started to climb, riders dropped from the break. Also, as they climbed, so many fans so, so close to the race. I once again wonder why people roadside think flares are a good idea?
13 kilometers to go and Pacher, a frenchman, had a small gap, but would soon be passed by Van Gils, Tejada, and Shaw.
Lovely hairpins: Back up to the front, Kwiatkowski, who would pass the trio. Under 10 kilometers and he would have over 30 seconds over the first chasers. The peloton was at about 3:15. Behind, most thought it would be a matter of when and not if, Pogacar would attack.  6 kilometers to go and Kwiatkowski had a minute. Under 5 kilometers and slight under one minute. The gap to the ever shrinking gc group was around 2:18. My fingers and toes were crossed for Kwiatkowski. It is always a joy to see someone who has worked so hard as a domestique for so many years have solo glory.
Yay Kwiatkowski!
Behind, an attempt by Pogacar, taking some bonus seconds and a few seconds as well. Insert marginal gains joke here.
Stage:


GC: 



The wine: Dufaitre Brouilly Le Millesime 2020
The importer tells me that: Rémi makes wines in a classic carbonic style, using whole bunches, which are carefully sorted to avoid broken grapes or rot. He adds some carbon dioxide gas to protect the grapes at the beginning of fermentation and does not use any temperature control. He avoids foot-stomping the grapes unless he sees some volatility starting to creep in. His goal is to have as little juice in the tank as possible. He also performs routine analysis to see how the yeast is performing and whether or not there is any volatility. Remi makes all his wines with the same method, thus we can really see and taste the differences between the sites, with minor differences in the elevage of each cuvée. He tastes each cuvée before bottling and may decide to add between zero and 2 mg of sulfur, depending on how stable he judges the wine to be.

The Food: Savoury Pie

Ingredients (for 6 people):
Bread dough
Onions 
Walnuts
Salt
Pepper
Walnut oil

Preparation:
Spread a bread dough on a sheet metal plate where you will have a mixture of onions cut into rings, finely chopped walnuts. Add salt, pepper and drizzle with walnut oil. Bake in a hot oven for 40 minutes, being careful not to let the filling dry out.
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Thursday, July 13, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 12: Roanne to Belleville en Beaujolais


Where are we? Heading from the Loire to Beaujolais.

Roanne: The local tourist site suggests a visit to the  the port of Roanne, a quiet place appreciated by all Roanne residents and tourists. As an extension, the Canal de Roanne à Digoin allows all nature lovers to enjoy an original setting on foot, by bike or by boat. The essential stopover in the discovery of the city of Roanne.
Some trivia: Roanne is the most inland port in France with a basin 800 meters long and 80 meters wide!

Regional Specialties: Praluline (brioche). Cotes roannaises Wines.

Belleville en Beaujolais: The regional tourist site has a bike ride for us: During this cycling route, discover the Saône valley from Belleville en Beaujolais.
The Saône appears to be a calm, unchanging river. However, it does possess a natural dynamic which, for hundreds of thousands of years, has participated in shaping its bed and its alluvial plain, to create this vast space. The morphology of the river has changed a lot in history, and it is still changing today. For example, 
old disconnected meanders allowed the creation of marshes like that of Boistray in Saint-Georges-de-Reneins. The Taponas lône is an old arm of the river which is gradually filling up with sediment. It is an interesting environment for fish.
We find in the Saône valley a landscape mosaic typical of the surroundings of large rivers, including wet meadows, alluvial forests, lônes, islands or ponds which are full of biodiversity. Many species of fauna and flora occupy the place, such as: the European beaver, the Eurasian curlew, the marsh spurge, the crested newt, the marsh copper, or even the guinea fowl fritillarium.
Loose sedimentary terrain is also of interest for human activities. Thus, the annual floods come to fertilize the agricultural lands along the Saône. Older deposits (composed of sand, gravel and pebbles) are mined in gravel pits to make basic materials for construction (concrete, aggregates).
When they are abandoned, the bodies of water created are often used as recreational areas, for water sports or fishing (such as the Sablons lake
in Belleville).
Stop producers: the Ferme en Ville store in Belleville brings together 14 associated producers, who sell products from their farms.

Regional Specialties: Beaujolais wines (beaujolais, beaujolais-villages, brouilly, chénas, chiroubles, côtes-de-brouilly, fleurie, juliénas, morgon, moulin-à-vent, régnié, saint-amour)



Christian Prudhomme says: The formation of the breakaway will be one of the critical moments on this hilly stage. As the race passes through the vineyards that produce the Beaujolais vintages, there could well be a lot of action before the climbs of the Croix Montmain and Croix Rosier. The uphill finale may well produce an excellent sprint contest between a small group of riders.

The stage: As opposed to yesterday, today was a struggle to form a break and splits in the peloton.  
45 kilometers to go and we had Van der Poel solo out front followed by Amador with a larger chasing group behind. 1km before the top of côte de Montmain, Van der Poel who grabbed a bidon from his father Adrie on the road side was 30'' ahead of Andrey Amador (EF Education-EasyPost), Tiesj Benoot (Jumbo-Visma), Thibaut Pinot (Groupama-FDJ), Guillaume Martin, Ion Izagirre (Cofidis), Ruben Guerreiro, Matteo Jorgenson (Movistar), Dylan Teuns (Israel-PremierTech), Tobias Halland Johanessen (Uno-X), Victor Campenaerts (Lotto-Dstny) and Mathieu Burgaudeau (TotalEnergies). Three stragglers: Alaphilippe, Pedersen and Stuyven. The yellow jersey group was at 3'.
Pinot and Jorgenson would bridge to Van der Poel. Soon they would be joined by Benoot, Martin, Izagirre, Johannessen and Burgaudeau.
Surging forward on the climb, Izagirre. At the summit, he would have 20 seconds.
Under 20 kilometers to go and it was out to 38 seconds. Under 10 kilometers and 45 seconds. 
Also, had to share this beauty. Izagirre with the win! Well done.




The wine: Domaine Serol Petillant Rose Turbullent
A blend of Gamay, Syrah, and Grenache.
The producer tells me that Located at the foothills of the Madeleine Mountains, the 200 hectares of the Côte Roannaise AOP are amongst the original vineyards of the Loire Valley.

On these higher-altitude granitic terroirs (between 400 and 550 m), at the foothill of the Massif Central, Gamay Saint Romain reigns supreme.

This area, the volcanic Loire, also includes Côtes du Forez, Côtes d’Auvergne and Saint Pourçain.




My neighborhood chocolate shop sells several items from Pralus, maker of the Praluline, featured on the local tourist site.  My favorite is this one: François Pralus' signature creations, the Inferno Bars combine the pleasures of chocolate with a crunchy and melting texture to create the perfect blend of flavors around exquisite chocolates. A XXL version of pleasure, 160 grams of pure indulgence! Under a dark chocolate layer, a light and melting heart of pistachio praline is hidden, sprinkled with crunchy pistachio chips.

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Wednesday, July 12, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 11: Clermont Ferrand to Moulins

Where are we? In the  Puy-de-Dôme

Clermont Ferrand: The local tourist site tells me to watch the buzzing city centre from the terrace of a café at Place de Jaude or Place de la Victoire. Our museums have lovely surprises in store and the city’s cultural calendar is filled with diverse artistic performances . For a change of scenery, take a walk through the spa resort of Royat, brimming with the allures of the Belle époque.
There are many museums to visit including the Bargoin Museum: archaeological treasures from excavations in and around the city with a department of textiles from outside Europe. Henri-Lecoq Museum: monumental herbarium collection, 50,000 samples of rocks, fossils and minerals and La Pascaline: a calculating machine invented by Blaise Pascal. Roger Quilliot Art Museum: statues of the Virgin Mary from the Romanesque and Gothic periods, objets d'art, 17th and 18th century portraits and paintings, a large gallery of 19th century works, a collection of figurative paintings from 1920-1960 and more. Waterway Museum: Pont-du-Château. Resistance and Deportation Museum: Chamalières.

Regional Specialties: fruit jellies, Le Lautrec chocolates, aligot, truffade auvergnate, potée auvergnate, tripoux, potato pâté, lard and lentils, apple pumps. Cheese: Saint Nectaire, Fourme d'Ambert, Bleu d'Auvergne, Cantal. Volvic water. Vineyards: Côtes d'Auvergne.

Moulins: The tourist site tells me that About 2h30 from Paris, Moulins is a bourgeois town where the imprint of the aristocracy and the first Bourbons is still felt. Its architecture is based on moderation, harmony, happy and peaceful discretion. It was a royal city. It has remained a place steeped in art and history.
Le Tour has this interesting note: Moulins was the only metropolitan prefecture not to have hosted the Tour de France during its 120-year history. This anomaly has now been rectified, even if the capital of the Allier region had other cycling references. It hosted the Critérium du Dauphiné and Paris-Nice in the same year, 1957. Four other towns in the Allier had already had the honour of hosting the Grande Boucle: Cérilly, Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule, Vichy and Montluçon, the town of the 1956 Tour winner Roger Walkowiak, but also the town where Julian Alpahilippe made his first steps. Born in Moulins, Jean-Pierre Bourgeot took part in four Tours de France between 1993 and 1996.

Regional Specialties: pompe aux grattons. Meat from the Charolais. Wines from Saint-Pourçain. 



Christian Prudhomme says: This will be an historic day because, as a result of the finish being in Moulins, the Tour will have visited all of the prefectures in mainland France. Although the roads of the Allier ensure there will be a steady and quite deceptive draw on riders’ reserves thanks to recurrent “leg-breaking” climbs, the 1,300-metre straight in the heart of Moulins should be ideal for the sprinters

The stage: A sprint stage? Probably and the last one for a week.nThe likely doomed break of the day had Oss, Louvel, and Amador.
Here is some interesting trivia:
As they rode on, Louvel was dropped from the front. Eventually Amador would sit up and Oss would continue. 44 kilometers to go and he had about 30 seconds.
Under 30 kilometers to go and heavy rain. 20 kilometers to go and the gap was down to 12. And then came the catch.
Ahead:  
At the end, a clean sprint and Philipsen, again!



The wine: Domaine Berioles Saint-Pourcain Le Blanc D'Ici Et D'Ailleurs
A blend of Chardonnay and Tressallier. 
Slow Food tells me a but about Tressalier: The Tressalier is an ancient varietal. The tip of the young branch is cottony, and the young leaves are green with bronze highlights. The branch has internodes with red streaks. Adult leaves are whole or quinquelobate, with a slightly open petiolar sinus, straight average teeth, the blade is involute, bubbled. The bunches and grapes are small. The bunch is conical and winged. The grapes are rounded.

Maturity is late. This varietal is hardy and fertile. It can be pruned short, even though custom dictates that it should be pruned long.
Its wines are light, with a good, low degree of acidity. It is often used to make sparkling wines, but it can also make good still wines.

Its presence under the name Sacy is recorded in the Yonne at the Abbaye de Reigny in the 13th century. It was largely grown in this department until the 18th century, as well as in France-Comté. Its history is also tied to the Saint-Pourçain appellation in the Allier (the Tressallier name could mean it comes from the other side of the river). The Saint-Pourçain wines were very famous in the Middle Ages, when they were served at the courts of the Capetian kings and the Popes in Avignon. In modern times, its consumption and vineyards have been expanded thanks to the river route, which allows it to reach Paris.
With the development of other routes of communication, this commercial advantage was lost, and in the 18th century it had to give way to Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. Phylloxera completed the job and the vineyard was significantly reduced. Today, the Saint-Pourçain appellation has 640 hectares, of which only 100 are devoted to the Tressallier; it is an ingredient in the making of white wines (between 20 and 40%, a range set by the appellation). Currently, it is Chardonnay that dominates the production of white wines, with a minimum presence of 50% established by the appellation.

The last historic varietal from this area, once highly reputed, the Tressallier survives in the current Saint-Pourçain appellation, and more anecdotally in the Burgundy. The historic base in Allier allowed it to develop special and typical features that could be an asset to revitalise a very marginal appellation in French production. Conversely, it runs the risk of wine-growers preferring ease and thus relying on the international fame of Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Currently, there are both impulses in the appellation, but the logic of varietal wines (mostly international) could very well cut the last link to a glorious history.


The food: Aligot
The tourist website provided an easy recipe:
Serves 6 :Ingredients
* 1 kg of floury potatoes
* 100 g of butter
* 250 g of creme fraiche
* 400 g of tome fraîche de Laguiole
* clove of garlic
* Salt pepper
Cook
Prepare a classic mash potatoes, add to this purée the butter and the creme fraiche. Season with salt, pepper and a hint of garlic.
Heat up the mash and add the cheese cut in small strips, then stir slowly with a wooden spoon. (This takes a little while and is very good arm exercise!)
When the mixture becomes stringy the Aligot is ready!
Serve with sausages or a pork or beef roast.
Enjoy!
Tip: take the cheese out of the fridge early enough, the stirring will be much easier.
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