Saturday, July 13, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 14 Pau to Saint-Lary-Soulan Pla D'Adet


Where are we? Spending more time in the Pyrenees

Since I covered Pau yesterday, only the stage finish town today:

Saint-Lary-Soulan Pal D'Adet: Hello ski resort. The local tourist site tells me that The village of Saint-Lary is dominated by the ski resort overlooking it. Le téléphérique du Pic Lumière and La télécabine de Vignec, link the village to the slopes. Always lively, the streets of Saint-Lary and especially its main street: the rue Vincent Mir, (named after the resort’s founder) offer numerous shops, services and restaurants. Evenings in the village are festive, combining family atmosphere and Southwestern conviviality!  They also tell me that The Vallées d’Aure et du Louron are classified as Pays d’Art et d’Histoire and are committed to a policy of animating and promoting the built, natural and architectural heritage.
Le Tour specialties: Bigorre black pork, spit-roasted cake, garbure, mountain honey, etc...

Christian Prudhomme says:  The dynamic format of the first Pyrenean stage is accentuated by the fact that battle is unlikely to commence until the riders have gone through Lourdes. From that point, with 80 kilometres remaining, there’ll be a festival of climbing, featuring the Col du Tourmalet, the Hourquette d’Ancizan and the climb to Pla d’Adet. Fifty years on, the finish line will be exactly where it was when Raymond Poulidor celebrated victory in the 1974 Tour.


The stage: With a few more not starting and abandonments, the peloton was down to 156. Many of them would not be very excited about today's stage. Covid was circulating through, with some leaving because of it and others with "symptoms" and continuing to race, at least so far.

The opening of the stage was on flat roads and they went out fast with an average speed of 50 kph. They also had a lot of riders interested in a break, but it was taking quite a while for one to form and multiple attempts. Eventually, there would be a rather large bunch, with chasers.The Col du Tourmalet was being climbed for the 87th time by the Tour peloton. Which makes it the most used climb by The Tour It is ahead of the Col d’Aspin (76 times), Aubisque (75) and Peyresourde (70).
Seventy one kms to go and the group in front had abut 4 minutes. Sixty eight to go and it was down to 10 in the lead bunch.
At the top, Lazkano would cross first. That would be a nice bonus for him.
As they descended, the main bunch was hovering around 3:40 down.
Some scenery.Under 40 kms to go and the gap was closer to 3 minutes to a shrinking peloton. That gap would continue to drop and drop and drop.
Eventually, as they hit the final climb, Healy would surge solo.
From the gc group, attack Adam Yates. Why was kind of unclear. A set up for a Pogacar attack? He would close in on Healy and then it came, the inevitable Pogacar attack. That gap got big, quickly with Pogacar reaching Yates, so he would have help. Well, until Pogacar dropped his teammate.
Behind, they would continue to ride, trying to minimize their losses. Vingegaard would drop Remco.  A reminder that is is the first of 4 summit finishes on this year's race. Also a reminder that the fans were insane. 
Keep in mind that there were time bonuses, along with the time gaps.

The wine:

Domaine de Bellegarde Jurancon Sec Energique 2023

The importer says: Discover the charm of Gros Manseng in this lovely wine, a true reflection of its terroir. The grapes are handpicked when they reach their peak ripeness, usually in late September or early October. After a gentle cold stabilization of 4 to 5 days and a natural fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine is bottled in the spring following the harvest. This wine is a delicate and refined expression of its origin, with subtle notes of grapefruit that transform into hints of white flowers and vine-ripened peaches as it breathes. In the mouth, the peach notes shine through, accompanied by a touch of blackcurrant.


The food: Garbure
From my man in France: Was it Rabelais who coined the expression, "It's like there's a party in my mouth and everyone's invited?" I really don't think so. But he would have done, had he ever eaten a garbure paysanne such as I just tried. And while this party may not be black tie, do not mistake its unpretentiousness for coarseness. The rustic charm of these ingredients--cabbage, potatoes, carrots, leeks--belies the elegance of their combined maneuver. And a little duck fat hurts only those overly sensitive to slurping. More than comfort food, this is magnanimity food: a few bites and all's right with the world and yourself. Relax. Enjoy the party. 

Le Tour says: The garbure This is the traditional soup in Bigorre. Made from cabbage and beans, it is simmered with confit or "camayou", a local ham bone. You can find it in many restaurants in the area and especially at the Auberge de l'Arrioutou, the Hautacam restaurant which has made it a speciality.
At the beginning of June, you should not miss the Confrérie de la Garbure in Argelès-Gazost, the traditional celebration of the typical Bigorre dish: mass led by the Ariélès Singers, parade of the brotherhoods of the south-west, inductions, market and garbure meal.
food52 has a recipe! 
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Friday, July 12, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 13: Agen to Pau


Where are we? Heading into the Pyrenees.

Agen: Time for some art. Located in the heart of the historic district of Agen, the Museum of Fine Arts is one of the most important museums in the South-West due to its richness and diversity. It is renowned for its masterpieces by Goya (including the self-portrait), its Venus du Mas (Roman period), its Tintoretto (Venetian Renaissance), discovered during the inventory of the collections in 1997 and its impressionist paintings (Sisley , Corot…). The museum is installed on five levels in four private mansions from the 16th and 17th centuries which reveal their architectural wealth during the tour: Renaissance spiral staircase, interior courtyards, fireplaces, period furniture... More than 3,000 objects there are permanently exhibited in 26 rooms, like a rich cabinet of curiosities. The museum participates in exchanges of works with other museums and organizes major exhibitions every year.
Le Tour specialties: Agen prunes, floc de Gascogne, tourin (garlic soup), tourtière (apple cake), ceps, salmis de palombe

Pau: From the tourist website: In the nineteenth, Pau is a prestigious resort. From Russia to Brazil, city, resort winter and summer tourist center, is the fashionable meeting of high society.The geographical location of the city, the magnificent views across the countryside from a hillside, the presence of native castle of Henry IV, all combine to make the city the gateway to the Pyrenees. Gateway to the benefits of spas, the grandeur of its mountain scenery is celebrated by the romantic fashion of the "trip to the Pyrenees". Thus, at an early stage in the history of the spa and health resort  Pau began selling in the early nineteenth century an intangible product, which all have and yet belongs to no one: the air!
From the years 1830-1840, the history of the city then takes a unexpected turn marked with the seal of the development of global tourism . The success further increases from 1842, when a Scottish doctor, Dr. Taylor Alexander, based in Pau recovering, began to show his countrymen that the local climate can have beneficial properties in the treatment of tuberculosis. It now becomes fashionable to spend the winter at Pau for his health care there ... or just show it! This period is commonly referred to as "English Town". 

Le Tour specialties: garbure, poule au pot, foie gras, magret and other duck and goose dishes, honey, coucougnettes du Vert Galant (roasted almonds coated in dark chocolate and raspberry marzipan), Verdier chocolates, Francis Miot jams, le Russe (almond cake with praline cream), ossau-iraty (cheese), wines (Jurançon, Madiran, Pacherenc).

Christian Prudhomme says:  The Lot-et-Garonne serves up some lovely balcony roads early in the stage, when the formation of the breakaway will be closely monitored by the sprinters’ teams, who will have studied the route carefully. If they judge their effort correctly, they won’t be caught out by the day’s escapees. However, amidst the hilly terrain approaching the finish, the Blachon and Simacourbe climbs could pose a problem for those sprinters who don’t feel comfortable in the hills.


The stage: Not starting on the day, Roglic.  Breakaway? Sprint? Time to find out. Indeed there were a lot of riders interested in the break.  It was a very chaotic start.
There would be attacks, counter attacks, dropped riders, splits, and more.
Forty km to go and the main bunch was back together, with Cavendish and others off the back, with Carapaz and Johannessen attacking off the front. Under 25 kms to go and they had around 30 seconds. 
Some field art!

There were still numerous sprinters in the main group, so a bunch sprint remained likely. Under 20 kms to go and more attacks from the peloton. Would they keep it together for that bunch sprint or would one of these attacks succeed?  Stuyvens was looking very strong, but it had been attacks all the way in. Would this be Girmay again?
Crash on the way in and it would be a small group contesting the sprint. That was a mess. Philipsen with the win. 


The wine:  Maison Blanche Bordeaux Rouge 2008 

from Copake Wine Works 

Christy says: OK, I’ll confess. When I ordered this wine I was expected the Marnes Blanches from the Jura to arrive. Clearly I wasn’t paying attention. Because this is definitely NOT a white, oxidative wine from the pre-Alpine part of France. Nope, Maison Blanche is a red Bordeaux from the country’s western Atlantic coast. But I can’t say I was mad at myself, because this is a very good wine. And honestly, Bordeaux Rouge is a much easier sell than whites from the Jura!
The estate dates back to 1875 and has been Demeter-certified (a.k.a. biodynamic) in 2013. It’s a Right Bank estate, so the grapes are cabernet franc and merlot. It’s rich and lush wine with a touch of fancy oak – but it’s not at all overdone. And at 14 years old, it’s a wildly good deal. 2008 was a classic vintage, before things started to really heat up – both in terms of price, and climate. The red fruit has mellowed, picking up dried tobacco leafy complexity, without losing its freshness. At this price, this bottle is an excellent way to wade into the world of aged wine and see if you like it. If you’ve got the cash to spend, grab a bottle of this, the 2000 and the 2018 and explore the vertical.

The food: Agen prunes
From Le Tour: Prunes came from China along the Silk Road to Syria. It was the Romans who brought the cultivation and drying of prunes the Agen region. They planted several varieties, including the Saint-Antonin or Maurine plum, a small blue plum that produced a very black prune of small size. Other varieties of Damascus plum were later brought to the Agen from Syria by the Crusaders in the 13th century. The monks of Clairac, by grafting with local plum trees, selected this new variety of Prune d'Ente (in old French "enter" means "to graft"). This new variety, with its thin skin and beautiful mauve-blue colour, is well adapted to the terroirs of the South-West. The resulting new prune is large in size, with delicate flavours and aromas. Thanks to its port on the Garonne, Agen became the main town for prune shipments. As they are stamped with the name of the port of embarkation of origin, they are known as Pruneaux d'Agen (Agen prunes). Pruneau d'Agen left from the great port of Bordeaux and were sold all over the world from the 17th to the 19th century. It was part of the navy's supplies in the days of the French Royal Navy and then the steam merchant navy, and was more generally taken on as an on-board provision for all long-distance voyages. Mixed with a custard made from eggs, flour and sugar, sailors created the famous recipe for Far Breton with prunes. The mid-19th century was a golden age, with annual production of 70,000 tonnes and over 20,000 tonnes exported to North America every year. As a result, the company expanded into California, followed by Argentina and Chile, South Africa and Australia. After a number of difficult years due to the two world wars, Agen prune production regained its pedigree with the award of a PGI in 2002 by the European Union.
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Thursday, July 11, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 12: Aurillac to Villeneuve Sur Lot


Where are we? Heading from the Auvergne to the Aquitaine

Aurillac: I am predictable. If the phrase National Stud appears, I will mention it. From Le Tour:  Aurillac National Stud Built: 1983
History: When Napoleon I reorganised the stud farms in 1806, the Aurillac stallion depot was moved to the Visitation convent in Rue des Carmes. It was also at the beginning of the 19th century, in 1821, that the first races were organised in Aurillac. In 1973, the Aurillac stallion depot had 47 stallions and the facilities in Rue des Carmes were becoming increasingly cramped, outdated and difficult to access from the town centre. That's why a new stud farm was built in 1983 to the south of the town on a 17-hectare estate handed over to the State by the Cantal department, close to the racecourse and riding school, creating a thirty-hectare equestrian centre on the immediate outskirts of the town, to which a pony club was added.  

Le Tour specialties: cantal, Auvergne cheeses, Couderc gentian liqueur, charcuterie, pounti, potée auvergnate, Salers meat.

Villeneuve Sur Lot: From the local tourist site: Founded in 1264 by Alphonse de Poitiers, Villeneuve-sur-Lot is the largest river bastide in the Southwest of France. Like all bastide towns, it was built on an orthogonal plan organized around a central square, Place Lafayette. 
Villeneuve-sur-Lot will charm you with its streets and alleyways, where the medieval era still shines through on the facades of the timber-framed houses, or with the Cieutat bridge, witness over the centuries to the whims of the indomitable River Lot. And let’s not forget the remarkable Sainte-Catherine church, founded in the 19th century, with its 55-metre-high bell tower. 
Whatever the season, the bastide is the place to be for a wide range of events that will make your stay unforgettable. With its 400 shops, the bastide town of Villeneuve-sur-Lot will meet all your needs to ensure your stay is a memorable one.

Le Tour specialties: cèpe du Périgord (mushroom), tourtière (cake), chasselas of Moissac (grape), Agen prunes, white garlic from Lomagne

Christian Prudhomme says:  The aesthetic landscapes of the Cantal and Lot regions won’t distract the baroudeurs (breakaway specialists) from the knowledge that there’s something for them to play for. The terrain here is all hills, with the climb to Rocamadour standing out – it’ll be tackled in the opposite direction to the route taken by the 2022 Tour time trial. The second part of the stage is more suited to the sprinters’ teams that are set on chasing the break down. However, on two previous and similar stages into Villeneuve-sur-Lot, the breakaway managed to hold off its pursuers.


The stage: The likely doomed break of the day consisted of Madouas, Pacher, Abrahamsen, and Turgis. Eventually Turgis would fall back and as expected, they were all together heading to the finish. 
in short: Crash in the peloton as the came closer with numerous riders down. Following the crash, there would be a split in the peloton and some riders remaining down.
That looked to be very much caused by road furniture. In that second group, Roglic, who has been having a bad week. The gap to his group would continue to grow and he would lose a ton of time. 
In the sprint, Girmay! What a Tour he is having.


The wine: Chateau Chante L'Osieau 2019

Sauternes! An importer tells me that: This Barsac domaine produces a lovely and balanced Sauternes from 3.8 hectares of 60-year-old vines in the calcareous soils of Barsac. The vineyard is planted 80% to Semillon and 20% to Sauvignon Blanc, and the wine—which shows excellent vinosity and freshness—spends two years in 50% new barrels.
A wine merchant tells me that: World class Satuernes from one of the oldest estates in the region, dating to 1756! *They happen to be located next to Chateau d'Yquem as well, so you know the vineyard sites are exemplary. Aromas and flavors of orange marmalade, lemon zest, and candied citrus peel abound. While rich and richly sweet, this Sauternes isn't heavy thanks to its balancing acidity.

The food: Cantal Cheese  
Cantal AOC is one of the oldest cheeses in France dating to the times of the Gaul’s rule. It received an Appellation d'Origine (AOC) status from the administrative region of Cantal in the Auvergne region in 1956. This has ensured that the semi-hard, uncooked, pressed cheese has the features and characteristics attributable to the area of origin.
I admit that although it is not traditional at all, this ended up (with many other cheeses) in a baked mac and cheese. 
That said, this spring in Lille, we used it on Fondue and I still think of it often. 
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Wednesday, July 10, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 11: Evaux Les Bains to Le Lioran


Where are we? Heading from the Aquitaine to the Auvergne.

Evaux Les Bains: Perhaps time for a soak.
The local spa tells me that:
Two hot water springs (60°C) spring up in Évaux-les-Bains: the César source and the Rocher source. Their hyperthermal waters contain a wide variety of minerals and trace elements as well as gas in significant quantities. Their constant flow makes it possible to treat 400 spa guests per day.
These thermo-mineral sources are the result of the infiltration of meteoric waters on the gneissic* plateaus to the east of the city. By their penetration and their journey to great depth, they acquire their thermality, their mineralization in contact with the rocks crossed.
Furthermore , the gases contained in the thermal water cause significant ionization of the atmosphere surrounding the thermal center, also promoting relaxation and sleep

Le Tour specialities: thermal waters, cabossé du Limousin (a pâté made from different meats), baguette la Limousette, pastries (le Creusois, le Thermal, le Trépaïs), gâteau creusois, fondu creusois, apple pâté, Charroux mustard.

Le Lioran: A ski resort. You knew we'd have at least one. But, it is not the ski seaosn, so let's go mountain biking, which they call The queen discipline in Lioran. Several developed trails allow safe downhill mountain biking . In total, more than 15 km await thrill-seekers , whether beginners, experienced or even professionals. These areas are easily accessible thanks to the Plomb du Cantal cable car and the Remberter chairlift. More enduro? Two routes allow you to reach the station from the summit: l'Aiguillon (5.2kms - 530mD-) and Le Rocher du Cerf (4.3kms - 530mD-).

Le Tour specialties: truffade (potatoes and cheese), Salers meat, pounti (pâté), pachade (thick, crispy pancake), 5 Auvergne PDO cheeses

Christian Prudhomme says:  There’s only one stage across the rugged Massif Central, but what a stage it is! With 4,350 metres of vertical gain, the riders will have to be on their mettle at all times, and particularly in the final 50 kilometres, when the degree of difficulty rises a level with a series of very challenging obstacles: the climb to the Col de Néronne, then to the Puy Mary Pas de Peyrol with its fearsome final two kilometres, then continuing on to the Col de Pertus, the Col de Font de Cère and the ascent to Le Lioran. They provide all manner of opportunities for eager climbers to attack.


The stage: In contrast to yesterday, lots of action from the start today.
Just over 100 km to go and there was a group of 10 with 2:32 over the main bunch. That group: Richard Carapaz, Mattéo Vercher, Ben Healy, Oier Lazkano, Oscar Onley, Paul Lapeira, Romain Grégoire, Julian Bernard, Guillaume Martin and Bruno Armirail. They would not be given a large gap.
Eventually, as expected, we would have a gc battle from a peloton which by that time was very reduced. A Pogacar attack? Sure. Not a surprise.Vingegaard would continue to chase hard with Roglic and Evenepoel, who had been dropped,  further behind. Evenepoel would rejoin Roglic as they climbed. 
Vingegaard would catch Pogacar! What a ride.
With about 5 km to go, Pogacar and Vingegaard had about 35 seconds over the duo behind. Not that he is focusing on it, but Pogacar has apparently taken the lead in the king of the mountain competition with his ride today.
Behind, a crash for Roglic, but he would be back up quickly, as he appeared to slide on the wet road.
Vingegaard with the stage win! Behind, nice work by Evenepoel to limit his damage.



The wine: Domaine Grosbot-Barbara Saint-Pourcain Brut 0 2021
From an importer: The appellation of Saint-Pourçain is situated in the center of France, in the Allier department and is considered part of the Centre-Loire. This region is better known to wine professionals for its forests of prized oak trees used in barrel production than for its wines. The appellation, ranging approximately 5 kilometers in width and 30 kilometers in length, spreads throughout 19 communes with vineyards planted on a series of hillsides to the west of the Allier River. The history of vineyards in this area dates back before the Romans, when the Phoenicians settled here and planted vines. In fact, they claimed to have civilized the barbarians with wine. During the 13th and 14th centuries the wines of Saint-Pourçain were highly esteemed. They traveled up to Paris via the Allier and Loire rivers and were favored by Popes, royalty and the aristocracy alike. By the end of the 18th century the vineyards of Saint-Pourçain covered more than 8,000 hectares. Today the vineyards total 600 hectares. The appellation received AOC status in 2009.

The food: Creuse Cake
Le Tour shares this: Legend has it that the recipe comes from a 15th-century parchment discovered during work in 1969 in the former Grandmont monastery in the commune of La Mazière-aux-Bons-Hommes, in the canton of Crocq. Written in Old French, it was later translated. In particular, the cake was said to be "cuit en tuile creuse" ("baked in a hollow tile"), an expression that gave it its name. A facsimile of this parchment can now be seen at the tourist office in Crocq. The Creuse confectioners' union came up with the idea of reviving the cake and making it a speciality of the department. Today, the exact recipe is known only to the 31 confectioners belonging to the "Le Creusois" association, the only ones authorised to make this pure butter hazelnut cake sold with this label. For a homemade recipe, you'll need equal parts sugar, flour, butter, hazelnut powder, egg whites and a sachet of vanilla sugar.

It turns out the NYTies has a recipe.  Also, Marmiton. 
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Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 10: Orleans to Saint Amand Montrond


Where are we?  From the Loiret to the Cher.

Orleans: The local tourist site has a Joan of Arc itinerary for us: When you think of Orleans, you probably think of Joan of Arc. After all, the history of the capital of the Loire region is inextricably entwined with the history of the young woman who turned the tide of the Hundred Years’ War.
After entering the city on 29 April 1429, Joan of Arc and the French troops forced the English to withdraw from the Siege of Orleans on 8 May 1429. Orleans has faithfully preserved the memory of this heroic figure, nicknamed the Maid of Orleans, ever since. Indeed, she’s impossible to miss! 
Highlights include:  MAISON DE JEANNE D’ARC The house of Joan of Arc is where the young woman stayed for a short time in April-May 1429. A multimedia room on the ground floor shows a film about the history of the national heroine. Upstairs is the research and archive room housing just under 37,000 documents all about Joan of Arc.

Le Tour Specialties: andouilles de Jargeau, Orléans mustard, coteaux du Giennois wines. Orléans vinegar, Cotignac d'Orléans.

Saint Amand Montrond: Let's go see a fortress: The Montrond fortress, in Saint-Amand-Montrond (Cher) is the only bastioned fortification built in central France. Located on an isolated limestone hillock, at the confluence of two rivers, the first fortified enclosure, with a large circular keep, dates back to the beginning of the 13th century. Heavily remodeled, the castle was enlarged, then transformed into a fortress by Henri II de Bourbon-Condé, father of the "Grand Condé" in 1621. The latter had a powerful network of bastioned fortifications built. Guided tours of the fortress in July and August from Tuesday to Sunday at 10 am, 2 pm, 3 pm and 4 pm Reservation recommended. Open all year round for groups by appointment.

Le Tour specialties: sanciaux (thick pancake filled with apples), poirat (Berrich pear pie), Châteaumeillant and Venesmes wines, sucrine of Berry, Berry pâté, truffiat

Christian Prudhomme says:  Heading through the Sologne forest, it’ll be difficult to predict the outcome of this stage, as the weather may play a significant role. After leaving Issoudun, the riders will find themselves on roads exposed to the crosswinds that scattered the peloton a decade ago. With three changes of direction in the last 30 kilometres, there’s a real chance of echelons forming.


The stage: The producers were amused.
Not the most compelling stage, for kilometer after kilometer. Clearly, it was setting up for a bunch sprint. 
To be honest, I had a dentist appointment and missed the finish. But, for the record.




The wine: 

Domaine Philippe Gilbert Menetou Salon Rose 2022

From Chisty: Menetou Salon - it's a very well-kept secret. Like roses from the Sancerre region, Mentou-Salon roses are made from pinot noir. Unlike the Sancerre region, which has become a bit of a brand name, you've never heard of the place, so it offers very good value. The best producers (and this is one of the best) make wines with a subtle complexity that comes from their underlying minerality. But for those who aren't concerned with complexity in their pink bottles, they are also lovely, elegant, and very drinkable. For the vintage-minded, you may be thinking: but this is the 2022… shouldn’t we be drinking 2023 at this point? Isn’t there some rule about “for rosé, only drink the youngest vintage”? I’m here to assure you, that rule is just not true. For very good rosés (like this one) the little bit of extra age is a very good thing. It let’s acidity and fruit settle into each other and allows the wine to show just a bit more depth and complexity. 

The food: Sanciaux
Ingredients
- 60 G OF FLOUR
- 12 CL OF MILK
- 1 EGG
- 1 PINCH OF SALT
- 2 SWEET APPLES (ROYAL GALA, PIPPIN)
- 20 G OF BUTTER
- 1 TEASPOON OF LIQUEUR (OR PEAR ALCOHOL)
- POWDERED SUGAR

Mix the flour, salt, make a well in the center, add the beaten egg and incorporate it into the flour while pouring in the milk to obtain a pancake batter.
Wash and peel the apples.
Cut them in half lengthwise, hollow them out and slice them into half-moons 5mm thick.
Brown them in a pan with the butter.
When they are golden, add the pear alcohol and flambé.
Add the crepe batter, mix gently and cook for 5 to 6 minutes over low heat.
Place a plate on the pan and flip the pancake.
Slide the uncooked side of the crepe into the pan, then cook for another 3 minutes.
Sprinkle it with sugar and enjoy it hot.
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Sunday, July 7, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 9: Troyes


Where are we? Starting at stopping in a single town today. in the Aube.  

Troyes: Michelin says: The historic centre has often lopsided half-timbered houses and streets so narrow that objects can be passed from house to opposite house... Troyes is a city of art, with old mansions, museums, and ten listed churches boasting stained glass from the 12C to the 20C. It has long been the French hosiery capital and the city retains a number of renowned manufacturers.
It also has an official  Cities and Countries of Art and History designation from the French government. It apparebtly has over 3000 medieval half-timbered houses.

Le Tour Specialties: champagne (2nd largest production area), Riceys rosé, andouillette, sauerkraut, cheeses (Chaource, Champ sur Barse and Mussy)

Christian Prudhomme says:  The Tour’s first week concludes with a new feature: white roads, which are already an emblematic feature of Strade Bianche and Paris-Tours. The Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift made the first passage across Champagne’s gravel roads close to Troyes in 2022. There will be 14 sectors, including six in the final part of the stage, extending to 32km in total, each sector pitching the riders onto the gravel and into the dust.


The stage: One of those, you might not wine the Tour today, but you could possibly lose it days.  Why? Gravel is challenging. Bike handling is important, but a puncture at the wrong time could have serious impact. 
The break was a challenge to form with multiple riders trying and failing to get away. 
Heading into sector 2 of the gravel, there was a 14 rider break with 12 or so chasers between them and the main bunch.
Amazing to see riders running with their bikes to get up a hill. Splits in the peloton wiht Roglic in trouble behind. Roglic and co would slowly make their way back to the main bunch.
Under 100 km to go and the gap to the break was only about 1 minute. 
Some sort of issue for Vingegaard as we saw a teammate, Tratnik, with his bike by the side of the road. He would chase back on Tratnik's bike to the bunch with a surprisingly small amount of help.
Picture of the day?
  
Ninety km to go and Pogacar was leading the bunch on the descent. The gap to the front group was only about 40 seconds.  An attack or just avoiding issues? Hard to tell but the bunch would rejoin him. 80 kms and 55 seconds to the break. Riders were visibly struggling. Attack Evenepoel. That was startling. Joining him, Pogacar and Vingegaard.  The trio would catch the break with over 70 kms to go, but would fall back. One wonders what the point of that was.
Further along and Evenepoel was struggling a bit at the back of the bunch. That may have been a positioning error. He would get back on.
Big crash for Vlasov. He got back up and was riding, but looked a bit wobbly. I was very glad to see the medical car reach him for an assessment.
Closing in on 40 kms to go and there were attacks with some jumping from the peloton including Van der Poel. He, of course, was a pre-stage favorite for the day.
Just over 221 km to go and attack Pogacar. Would he stay away or would his rivals get back to him? They seemed to be recovering, with Vingegaard getting a lot of help from a teammate to rejoin. Evenepoel was not far behind. The one struggling the most seemed to be Roglic.
Ahead the lead group had started to attack each other. Surging forward, Stuyven.
Attack again Pogacar. Less of a gap this time.
Under 4 kms to go and 9 seconds or so for Stuyven. But they would catch him with about a km to go. Turgis with a nice sprint to take the stage. 
Time for the rest day!




The wine:  Champagne Robert Barbichon Coteaux Champenois Rouge 2022
A still red wine from Champagne, made from 100% estate grown pinot nor. 
From an importer:  Champagne Robert Barbichon represents four generations worth of work in the Côte des Bar. Recent history has not been kind to this somewhat far flung region of Champagne, although prior to the 19th century the region was a fairly important source of wine. Robert Barbichon is now in the very capable hands of Robert’s two sons, Thomas & Maxime, who after learning viticulture and winemaking from their father took over duties at the family estate. They have since pushed the envelope on farming by quickly converting to organic practices and are since 2005 have been practicing biodynamics in all of the family holdings.

The food: Sauerkraut 
I got a can of this: Andre Laurent is a fourth-generation French manufacturer of certified Red Label sauerkraut and has been growing cabbages in the Champagne region since 1906.

Since 1906, Paul Laurent has been growing cabbages for sauerkraut on his farm in Blignicourt. His son Andre took over from his parents in 1945 and grew the family business during the post-war period. Butchers and restaurant owners all wanted to his sauerkraut and production grew from 800 tons to 9000 tons from the 1950s to the 1990s. Cabbage grown in the the heart of the Champagne region benefit from the land’s growing conditions, producing sauerkraut that is especially soft and light.
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Saturday, July 6, 2024

Tour de France 2024 Stage 8: Semur en Auxois to Colombey Les Deux Eglises


Where are we? Heading from Burgundy to the Haute Marne.

Semur en Auxois: The local website tells me that Historic capital of Auxois in Burgundy, Semur-en-Auxois is a town of nearly 4,500 inhabitants which offers a real journey through time through its streets and emblematic monuments such as the collegiate church, the keep and its fortifications, its private mansions and its winegrowers' houses, all in a beautiful green setting. It also suggests a visit to "The Dungeon": Using the intersection point between the meander and the plateau, the dungeon of Semur-en-Auxois was built to protect access to the castle district . It forms a vast rectangle 75 meters long by 50 meters wide , made up of four towers located at each corner and linked together by curtain walls.

Until the beginning of the 17th century, gate towers with drawbridges located in an East-West axis made it possible to communicate with the castle district and Bourg Notre-Dame


Le Tour Specialties:  Burgundy snails, parsley ham, Burgundy truffles, beef bourguignon, gougères, oeufs en meurette (eggs in wine sauce). Burgundy wines. Epoisses.

Colombey Les Deux Eglises: It seems right to highlight the de Gaulle memorial: Situated at the foot of the Croix de Lorraine in Colombey-les-deux-Eglises, the Charles de Gaulle memorial completes a walk of remembrance consisting of the family residence, La Boisserie and the de Gaulle family tomb, a place for contemplation, steeped in austerity. The village of Colombey-les-deux-Eglises is famous for having been chosen by General de Gaulle as the site of his family home, La Boisserie, on 9th June 1934. The main place of contemplation and writing of the man who made the call of 18th June, La Boisserie immerses the visitor in its family atmosphere, stamped with simplicity. Open to the public, visitors can tour the dining room and lounge, admire the view from the office and immerse themselves in the private life of Charles de Gaulle and his family.

However, the one thing was lacking to help visitors understand the man; the Memorial fulfils this role.More than a traditional presentation of the first President of the Fifth Republic, the Memorial is a meeting with the history of the twentieth century and a meeting with the private side of a man. It presents the different facets of Charles de Gaulle: the writer, the father, the politician, the leader of France Libre, the private man, etc.


Le Tour Specialties: champagne, andouilles, Haute-Marne specialities, Langres cheese. Champagne fondue. Caisses de Wassy (meringues).

Christian Prudhomme says: Although no altitude records will be broken, the first two-thirds of this stage does feature five categorised climbs. The relentless ups and downs may put a strain on the legs at the point when the sprinters’ team-mates are starting to think about setting up a bunch finish. But the last three kilometres of the final straight, which rise slightly but steadily, could be the ideal place to bring the peloton back together.


The stage: News of the day from Cycling News: One of the most heart-warming sights of the Tour so far came during the time trial yesterday when Julian Bernard stopped briefly to greet his family and friends. Exasperatingly, the jobsworths at the UCI fined him for it, but thankfully Bernard himself wasn’t too bothered, describing it as a “dream moment.”
Sigh.
Also worth paying attention to: the DNS of second-place green jersey contender Mads Pedersen. That would change the nature of that "race within the race."
After some early efforts, with 135 kms to go, Abrahamsen, in dots, had about 5 minutes on the peloton. He would keep that gap for a long time, but eventually the chase would be on.
Absolutely horrible news from another race today. Simply heartbreaking.

Hard to refocus on the stage, but with 35 km to go, he still had almost 3 minutes.
Twenty five to go and his gap was about 1 minute.
Quite some field art.

Fifteen kms to go and the catch had been made.
Finally, the sprint finish. Which felt very long and highly stressful. Taking the stage, Girmay! Two for him.

The wine: Franck Givaudin Irancy 2021 from Copake Wine Works 
Christy says: For up near Chablis, Irancy is the region's place for pinot noir. It's a cool climate that's gotten just warm enough to regularly turn out elegant, fresh red-fruited, minerally examples. Excellent value.

The food: Langres cheese
My man in France says: Langres lives comfortably in the contact zone between overbearing and understated, and it will happily get up to greet anyone who pays call. When it does, expect a firm handshake in flavor form—the kind of sensible, unpretentious application of strength that reassures instead of intimidating. The tangy notes present themselves as a gesture of southeastern hospitality. And while no one can accuse this cheese of being creamy, we have it dead to rights on charges of a pleasing suppleness. You’ll wish you had more on hand than you do, or else fewer fellow connoisseurs with whom to share. 

The folks at Formaggio Kitchen tell me that Langres, the cheese engineered to have Champagne poured right on it! This makes it perhaps the most perfect celebratory cheese for two. Named for the Langres plateau in the Champagne region of France, this orange-rinded creamy cow’s milk cheese has a divot made into the top of the cheese where the Champagne can pool. We recommend cutting a small slit into the middle to allow the bubbles to transform its fudgy texture into a slightly creamier one. 

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