Friday, May 26, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 19: Longarone to Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Where are we? In the Veneto and Trentino

Longarone: The local tourism site has a destination for us, La Torre Della Gardona: 
The triangular-shaped tower, an original, unique, piece of architecture, is located on a cliff overlooking the Piave and has always aroused interest and amazement. The Gardona is often referred to as a tower, fortilitium or pass, but its role as a customs checkpoint for transit towards Cadore is undoubted. It is currently the heraldic symbol of the coat of arms of the Municipality of Longarone.

Regional SpecialtiesThe “International Exhibition of Gelato” (MIG) takes place in Longrone every year at the beginning of winter. This international fair on “cold sweet” makes Longarone (Belluno) the gelato capital, drawing the attention of gelato makers from all over the world. Forty years ago things were different. The initiative began modestly for the willingness of local people: there were only 18 exhibiting companies in the traditional meeting point of the gelato makers from the Valley of Zoldo and Cadore. During the winter, they came back home at the end of the work season from the ice cream parlours of Germany, Austria, The Netherlands, and other European countries. During the opening days, international conferences and meetings on topical subjects are held, and famous competitions such as the “Coppa d’Oro” and the “Carlo Pozzi” award take place.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Giro tells me that 
Auronzo and Misurina are part of the Northern Dolomites with their 78,767 hectares (53,586 of heartland and 25,181 hectares of intermediate area), the largest of the nine areas making up the Dolomite World Heritage Site.They are part of a range of mountains shared by the provinces of Belluno and Bolzano bordering at the Pusteria, Sesto, Badia, San Cassiano, Boite and Piave valleys and containing some of the most famous massifs in the Alps: Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cadini di Misurina, Sorapìss, Monte Cristallo, Marmarole, Antelao and the Croda dei Toni at Mt. Popera.
The Dolomites were made into a World Heritage Site on the 26th of June 2009 by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee at a meeting in Seville for their “series of extraordinarily distinctive and exceptionally beautiful natural mountain landscapes”, “their variety of sculptural forms” and “their vertical, pale peaks”. Furthermore, the area possesses a complex of values of international scientific importance given its “quantity and concentration of extremely varied calcareous formations” and unusual geological features.

Regional Specialties
When you take a trip anywhere in the world you do it for many reasons: art, culture, history, sports, events, landscapes… but one of the greatest curiosities when you come to these places to us new is to savor the local traditions.
Among the delicious dishes of the area do not miss the opportunity to enjoy the Gnocchi all’Auronzana:  potato gnocchi seasoned with melted butter and smoked ricotta, a real treat for your palate!
Many places where tastes the delicacies of Cadore, spectacular places surrounded by greenery from the breathtaking landscape.



The stage: The queen stage! The stage profile was one to thrill fans, if not riders. With 100 kilometers to go a large break had about 5 minutes: 
Alex Baudin, Nicolas Prodhomme, Larry Warbasse (AG2R Citroën), Stefano Oldani (Alpecin-Deceuninck), Vadim Pronskiy (Astana Qazaqstan), Patrick Konrad (Bora-hansgrohe), Magnus Cort Nielsen (EF Education-EasyPost), Davide Gabburo (Green Project-Bardiani CSF-Faizanè), Derek Gee (Israel-PremierTech), Veljko Stojnić (Team Corratec-Selle Italia), Michael Hepburn (Jayco AlUla), Carlos Verona, José Joaquín Rojas (Movistar) and Mattia Bais (Eolo-Kometa).
46 kilometers to go and the gap to the break was over 6 minutes.

The scenery today was remarkable and a reminder that I would really like to visit the Dolomites.As they road on, wet roads ahead, but the good news is that it appears to be at the bottom of the climb, but not on the descent.
Up front, the break group was down to 7 with under 30 kilometers to go: Prodhomme,  Pronskiy, Gee, Verona, Cort, Hepburn, and Buitrago. It looked like they would be fighting for the stage win, though there was regrouping to come.
Roglic bike change. That is an interesting move, as it was not due to a mechanical but a response to the upcoming road.
Back at the front, more rain. Because, of course, more rain.
14 kilometers to go and 4 in the lead: Buitrago, Gee, Cort, and Hepburn. Their gap was just under 6 minutes. 
Also, it was hailing.
At the front, regrouping and further attacks with Gee and Buitrago surging forward. Buitrago will end up solo in front with far too many fans on the road.
Behind, the GC group was still led by Ineos. Almeida would come to the front as they continued to climb. Finally, Roglic with Thomas and Almeida following.
Almeida would fail to hold their wheels.
Roglic may have gained three seconds, with Almeida losing 20 seconds behind.
A reminder that the time trial tomorrow will be a major challenge.

Stage: 


GC: 


The wine: 2007 Ronchi di Cialla Rosso
From 2013!
 
From the producer
The earliest written mentions of Schioppettino go back to 1282 on manuscripts now kept in the Albana Castle, in the Prepotto province. Historically, this grape has different names in different regions, according to the language of the land: Sclopetin (Friuli), Pocalza (Slovenia) and Ribolla Nera (Italy).
Since its origins, Schioppettino has always been grown in a very small area on the southern hills of the Prepotto county. Traditionally, two “cru” stand out for quality: Cialla e Albana.
There were approximately a hundred or more local vineyards in Friuli and Schioppettino was quite well known and liked outside the region, its reputation reaching as far as central Europe. Unluckily, most of those vineyards were destroyed between 1800 and 1900 with the spread of terrible grape diseases like “oidio” and “fillossera”. Eventually, the cultivation was completely abandoned after World War I and II, as Cialla was close to the front line and workers were recruited in the army. After the war, traditional grapes were replaced with foreign types (Cabernet, Merlot, Blaufrankisch ecc.), which were easier to grow and more marketable, resulting in the loss of a range of indigenous kinds that was unique in the world!
In 1970, the Rapuzzi family bought a property in Cialla for the purpose of growing only local grapes. At that time, the only traces of Schiopettino were in ancient manuscripts and in the memory of the elders. Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi managed to find about 70 surviving vines in the valley and nearby, which enabled them to create a whole new vineyard and resuscitate Schioppettino.

I say: Green pepper, herbs, cherries and plums.  

The food: Canederli from Academia Barilla
Ingredients:
  • 1 lb stale bread
  • 1 onion
  • 1 ½ oz butter
  • ½ lb cheese
  • 1 oz grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
  • 1 tablespoon chives , chopped
  • 2 tablespoons heavy cream
  • 3 eggs
  • 2 tablespoons milk
  • salt to taste
  • 6 cups broth

  • Cut the bread into small pieces and toast it in the butter, then transfer to a bowl.
    Cut up the onion finely and fry gently in the butter, letting it soften without burning it, then mix with the bread.
    Cut the cheese into small pieces (different types of cheese can be used, especially if leftovers) and mix with the bread together with the grated Parmesan, the chives and a little cream. Mix carefully.

    Add the eggs, mix again and pour into the milk to obtain a soft but not slack dough, and turn it into small balls to be cooked in boiling salted water for about 20 minutes.

    Serve the “canederli” in stock, or dry, dressed with melted butter.

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