Saturday, May 27, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 20: Tarvisio to Monte Lussari

Where are we? In Friuli

Tarvisio: The Giro ask that we Imagine a place where the seasons alternate slowly, where you can rest your mind and reconnect with nature. A place characterized by the spirit of brotherhood among peoples, where borders are freely crossed by walking or by riding a bike. It is an easy-to-reach place, located in the northeastern corner of Friuli Venezia Giulia, in Valcanale: here is Tarvisio!
A vast and multifaceted territory that stretches between the verdant Carnic Alps and the majestic Julian Alps, offering visitors nature, history, art, sports, food and wine, traditions and breathtaking landscapes. During the winter season you will encounter places to practice alpine skiing, Nordic skiing, ski touring, snowboarding, freeriding and even heli-skiing. You will also have the opportunity to go snowshoeing, ice-skating, mushing-sledding or fat-biking. In summer, on the other hand, you can go hiking, forest-bathing, dog-trekking, golfing, climbing, biking and mountain biking. Walking along the easy trails on the valley floor, immersed in the thousand-year-old forest of Tarvisio, or climbing higher up to the via ferratas, you will immerse yourself in unique environments, amid pristine alpine flora and fauna of rare beauty.

Regional Specialties:
GASTRONOMY WITHOUT BORDERS: The Valcanale – Canal del Ferro, whose historical events represent an extraordinary and fascinating baggage, have preserved, and in some cases reworked, traditions belonging to the Latin, German and Slavic ethnic groups not only in the cultural, economic and social spheres but also in the gastronomic sector. The centuries-old genuine encounter between the mountain culinary tradition, represented by Friulian-Carnian, Carinthian and Slovenian cuisine and the flavors of the Mediterranean, reveals its best fruits here.
The presence of unspoiled nature and an ancient forest, among the largest and most intact on the peninsula, have conditioned local food habits with the presence of game and mushrooms, berries and alpine cheeses. Alongside such typically Central European aspects, it is surprising to find, particularly in the Tarvisio area, fish and Mediterranean dishes as a result of the simultaneous substantial presence of many Italians of southern origin and the consequent important demand from the neighboring Austrians and Slovenes, who have always been lovers of Italian wines and dishes.
LOCAL SPECIALTIESDon’t be surprised, there are many dishes that have extra-territorial significance, finding representation in the culinary traditions of Carinthia, Slovenia and Friuli. Goulash, frico, game ragout, barley dishes, minced lard, cured meats and cheeses that encapsulate the scents of the meadows and pastures of our mountains. And also strudel, plum-filled dumplings, Christmas cookies, reindling (in Austrian dialect) or schartl (in Slovenian dialect) and tarts with small fruits (raspberries, blueberries and blackberries). Carnic, Carinthian, and Mediterranean cuisine achieve balances and nuances in Valcanale, representing a hard-to-match choice of flavors and details. Traditions, therefore, are not mixed in an indecipherable offer, but are enhanced for each of their own characteristics.

Monte Lussari: The Giro tells me that we are climbing a peak overlooking the land where the Carnic and Julian Alps come together, from a position of privilege that positions it as the guardian of these borderlands and the meeting place of Latin, Slavic, and Germanic peoples: Mount Lussari is much more than a peak that touches 1800 m! It is an exceptional terrace over the giants of the Julian Alps: from here, your eyes are lost in the majesty of the rock walls of Jof di MontasioJof Fuart, and Mangart from a viewpoint that is without a doubt privileged and unparalleled.
It is a renowned pilgrimage destination due to the presence of a sanctuary, which can be reached through the suggestive Sentiero del Pellegrino, a hiking path that from the valley floor climbs the slopes of the mountain along the millenary forest of Tarvisio.

Regional SpecialtiesLussari is also the highest village in Friuli Venezia Giulia, and in its narrow streets, the traditional cuisine can be discovered in the dishes served in its many welcoming inns.




The stage: Cue announcer voice: it all comes down to this. A mountain time trial to decide this year's Giro. The stage profile, to the left, is intimidating. The best times for the early riders were just above 46 minutes. 
Speaking of the early riders, many decided to soak in the day, including Cav, riding his final Giro time trial.
As we waited (and waited) for the GC riders, our leader in the hot seat was Matthew Riccitello  at 46′ 19”.
When it was time for the GC, there was joy, despair, hope and finally, at least for me, more despair. We had Pinot briefly in the hot seat, dreaming of the elusive stage win, Roglic with a mechanical, but still by far the best time of the day. So good a time, that he would overtake Thomas and going into the final stage, ride in pink.       

The wine: 
2015 Venezia Giulia “Morus Alba” • Vignai da Duline
From 2021
Back to Kermit Lynch and they say: This unusual Friulan blend combines an ancient, near-extinct clone of Sauvignon with old-vine Malvasia Istriana, aged in barrel and bottled without filtration. The tiny yields give an intensely concentrated wine of immense complexity, with delicate aromas of white flowers and ripe citrus soaring over a deep, rich structure, the whole balanced on a taut beam of minerality. It already drinks well, but will age like an electrically charged, exotically scented premier cru white Burgundy. A creamy risotto is the perfect match.

Anthony Lynch


The food: 
 Cjarsons Ravioli with apples

Here's a recipe from La Cucina Italiana:
Apple Ravioli Recipe
Ingredients for 4 people
For pasta
1 lb flour, 1 lb boiling water
How to make ravioli
For the filling 3 big potatoes, a handful of sultana raisins soaked in water, half a grated apple, a little bit of grated peel, a tablespoon of sugar, a pinch of salt, a pinch of grated cinnamon, a tuft of parsley, a tuft of mint, a tuft of lemon balm all chopped up, half onion thinly sliced, clarified butter ("ont"), smoked ricotta
Filling Boil the potatoes and mash them then put them in a large bowl. Brown the onions in a non- stick pan with a little clarified butter over low heat when they are nicely cooked add the chopped herbs and after a moment of cooking add them to the mashed potatoes. At this point add the raisins, lemon peel, sugar, salt, apple, cinnamon. Mix everything together until you get a well amalgamated mixture called "pestum". Let it rest al fresco for a couple of hours.
Pasta: Add boiling water to the flour and make a quick dough. Form cylinders as you would when making gnocchi, cut them into chunks and with the help of a glass widen them to form many circles. Now put a teaspoon of stuffing inside each one and close properly by pressing on the edges.
To complete the dish: Cook the cjarsòns in boiling salted water and when they come to the surface collect them with a perforated ladle and place them on a plate, season with grated smoked ricotta cheese and a little melted clarified butter on top.

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