Friday, May 24, 2024

Giro 2024 Stage 19: Mortegliano to Sappada


Where are we? In Friuli

Mortegliano: The regional tourist site tells me that The name Mortegliano, a large agricultural centre in the low plain of Friuli, may derive from the name of a Roman farmer, Mortilio, who owned some properties in the area.
The town can boast Italy's highest bell tower: 113.2 metres.
The municipality of Mortegliano comprises the hamlets of Lavariano and Chiasiellis as well.
The neo-Gothic Cathedral is worth a visit: it features a spectacular wooden altar, considered the best example of Renaissance wooden sculpture in Friuli, by carver and painter Giovanni Martini from Udine. The other churches present in the territory are noteworthy too.

Giro Specialties: Agriculture is the main activity in this land and is dominated by maize (blave), wheat and barley. This is followed by other arable crops, apples, kiwis, fruit trees and plants, and vegetables. Vines are also present. Farmers make an excellent polenta flour from top-quality maize, appreciated for its aroma, colour, flavour and consistency. From there comes the so-called “Blave di Mortean“, a well-established patented project and brand name. Two dairy-cheese factories collect and process milk from the many local farms on a daily basis to produce Montasio cheese, ricotta, stracchino and mozzarella.

Sappada: The local tourist site tells me that: Surrounded by the Dolomites, Sappada (Plodn in the local dialect) is a well-known winter and summer tourist destination. Its origin is from the early medieval period and is attributed to the Patriarch of Aquileia who is supposed to have invited  a group of families from Bavaria to live in this area, then uninhabited. An ancient German dialect is spoken in Sappada even to this day.
Apart from its landscape beauty, Sappada also boasts a particular rural architecture of wooden houses built using the ancient blockbau technique. The best-known of all the old traditions is the Plodar Vosenòcht, the carnival of Sappada, in which people from the entire countryside are involved for three Sundays, and where the typical mask of Rollate plays the leading role.

Giro specialties: Sappada’s gastronomic offerings are a tribute to excellence: gourmet restaurants (including a Michelin-starred one), pizzerias, agritourisms and mountain lodges all offer typical mountain cuisine of the highest quality. Sappada’s globally recognised Local Cusine represents a very important appeal for tourists visiting our town. Many traditional local dishes are proposed and interpreted by the talent of our chefs.


The stage: Hello breakaway. Hello Julina Alaphilippe. With the gc group more than 10 minutes behind, it was clear that the winner would come from the break group.   15 kilometers to go and Vendrame had a minute on a chasing group of 6.
His gap would stay stable as they rode closer and closer.
Indeed, he would hold on. 

The wine:  Weingut Carlotto Lagrein
From 2018 
From the importer:
Feruccio Carlotto and his daughter Michela farm a tiny estate of several hectares in the Alto-Adige town of Ora, south of Bolzano. The special of this village is Lagrein, a red grape that is native to the region, and these folks have it down. They chose to produce only one Lagrein Riserva that is aged in large oak casks. The vines are planted in a complex mélange of soil types dominated by igneous porphyry rock and complemented by limestone subsoil and a wide range of alluvial sediments and stones deposited here over millennia. You have never tasted Lagrein with this much finesse. It is a powerhouse of a wine with a very light touch—inky black, loaded with fruit, with a distinctive personality, and silky tannins. They also make a small amount of Pinot Nero that is made in a very fine, elegant style, with a feathery touch. It is from one of the best terroirs in the Alto Adige for Pinot Nero, the cru of Mazzon.
Saurnschotte is one of the symbols of the gastronomic culture of Sappada, a German-speaking area nestled in the Dolomites. The village lies at the beginning of the Piave valley, close to the border with the Veneto region.
In the local language saurnschotte means “sour ricotta”. Its appearance is similar to ricotta: it is a fresh product therefore it doesn’t really have a crust or a really characteristic shape, it is white and has persistent notes of an aromatic herb.
But saurnschotte, despite its name and appearance, is not a ricotta, it is in effect a fresh cheese, obtained from an acidic coagulation. The ingredients are raw whole cow’s milk, fresh or dried tarragon, salt and pepper.
The mountain tarragon, known as “Perschtroum”, in the local language, grows spontaneously on the edge of the Sappada pastures and woods. It is harvested during the summer season and preserved in salt so that it can be used throughout the year. The people of Sappada believe that it has unique characteristics, which make it essential and not replaceable with regular tarragon, which makes collecting it extremely important.
Acid coagulation takes a long time, even a few hours, due to the slow acidification of the milk, triggered by the addition of autoproduced starter cultures. Lactose transforms into lactic acid, the increase in acidity causes the caseins to denature and clumps to form. The increase in temperature, within certain limits, favours the acidification process, whereby the milk inside the pot is kept at a temperature of about 37°C.
Once the coagulation process is complete, the curd is left to drain in cotton sheets for 24 hours and then mixed with tarragon, salt and pepper. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to about 15 days.
Saurnschotte is the main ingredient of some typical recipes from Sappada, such as schottedunkate which is made by mixing saurnschotte together with polenta. The mixture is then topped with sizzling melted butter. It is also used as a filling for ravioli or simply spread on bread.

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