Giro 2024 Stage 8: Spoleto to Prati di Tivo

Where are we? Leaving Umbria for Abruzzo

Spoleto: Umbria Tourism tells me that located in southeastern Umbria, Spoleto is one of the region's most fascinating art towns. Its wealth of history, varied cultural heritage and important arts events make it one of the tourist destinations most highly esteemed by visitors.

The historic center has maintained its medieval appearance, although traces of its Roman heritage are still visible. Spoleto's most ancient monuments are the Arch of Drusus and Germanicus, a Roman arch that led into the forum (now Piazza del Mercato), near the Romanesque Church of Sant'Ansano, the Roman theater, and the Basilica of San Salvatore, an interesting early Christian monument that goes back to the 4th-5th century. Not far away from the 13th-century Church of San Gregorio Maggiore, characterized by its suggestive apse area and the raised presbytery, are the triple-spanned Roman Bridge (or Ponte Sanguinario) made from blocks of travertine and the Amphitheater from the 2nd century AD. The town's greatest monument is the Duomo (Cathedral). Built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century, it was subsequently modified with the addition of a Renaissance portico to the façade, which is decorated with a large Byzantine-style mosaic (1207). Inside are many excellent works of art, including a fresco of the Madonna and Saints by Pinturicchio, the bronze bust of Urban VIII by Bernini, and an extraordinary fresco cycle by Filippo Lippi. The 12th-century Church of Sant'Eufemia is an interesting Romanesque building whose apse faces the stairs leading to Piazza Duomo, the Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo and the Church of San Ponziano. The Churches of San Domenico and San Nicolò and the Palazzo Comunale, or Town Hall, are instead from the 13th century. The Municipal Picture Gallery holds important works, including a Crucifix on canvas by an Umbrian artist (12th century), two frescoes by Spagna and a Mary Magdalene attributed to Guercino. Also of interest are the Church of San Paolo Inter Vineas (10th century), with an important cycle of 13th-century frescoes, and the Church of San Pietro, built in the 5th century, which has a splendid sculptured Romanesque façade decorated with exceptionally fine bas-reliefs.

Giro Specialties: 

Strangozzi (aka Strengozze or Stringozzi): a local type of pasta of very humble and ancient origins. Strangozzi owe their name to their shape, similar to the leather laces of a shoe, and are slightly thicker noodles than the traditional ones, with a flour-based dough and no eggs. Strangozzi are paired with simple, essential condiments: Spoleto oil first and foremost, but also fresh tomatoes and forest products such as wild asparagus, mushrooms and truffles.

Crescionda : among the many traditional sweets, Crescionda is undoubtedly the most typical cake of the Spoleto area, despite being rather unknown in the rest of the region. When cut, it is made up of three layers: the first, consisting of macaroons and flour, the second, a light central layer like vanilla pudding, made up of milk and eggs, and the third, dark-coloured layer consisting almost exclusively of chocolate.

Attorta : once prepared for the main festivities throughout the year, today this cake is mainly a Christmas or winter dish. The Attorta, known in other parts of Umbria as 'rocciata', is reminiscent of the more Nordic 'strudel' and is composed of a coil of pastry twisted on itself, filled with apples and other ingredients including sultanas, pine nuts, walnuts, chocolate and alkermes.

Castagnole : the dough for Castagnole is made of eggs, sugar, flour and lard, to which honey and mistrà are then added. They are also called sfrappe or fennel. Chestnuts get their name from their small, rounded shape, similar to that of chestnuts, and are fried in hot oil and then sprinkled with alchermes. They match perfectly with vin santo.

Prati di Tivo:  The local website tells me that: The charming mountain resort of Prati di Tivo is located within the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, in the municipality of Pietracamela, at the foot of the mountain known as "The Sleeping Giant" .

The name seems to derive from the term "retrivi meadows" , used in ancient times to identify the place and meant both its most extreme position at 1450 m above sea level , and the lateness of its harvests, due precisely to its position.

Prati di Tivo became a real tourist resort, ready to welcome numerous visitors, around the 1970s, with the construction of important hotel structures. The latter had the opportunity to arise thanks above all to the presence of the ski lifts which during the winter period attracted numerous visitors to the mountain resort of Teramo and also allowed, during the summer period, to bring all the enthusiasts and all those who they wanted to attempt the climb to the “Due Corni”

In addition, Life in Abruzzo suggests a delightful sounding walk. 
Giro Specialties:

The stage: Bumpy, with a summit finish!

There was an over 10-man break on the day, but they were not given a lot of rope. With 50 kilometers to go, their gap was only around 1:30. Their effort had been far from cohesive and they would split apart.

Under 30 kilometers and it was closer to a minute. It really did seem like things were setting up for another Pogacar stage win.

Within 10 kilometers to go and they were essentially all reeled in. 

And, indeed it would be Pogacar.

New GC:

The wine: Nicodemi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 08 $17.00   

A repost from 2011

They say: Fattoria Nicodemi is located in the Teramo district in Abruzzo, a hilly province bordering the Adriatic sea in central Italy. It was founded by Bruno Nicodemi, and today is run by brother and sister team Alessandro and Elena Nicodemi. High up in these chalky, clay-rich hills, the Nicodemi estate couldn't be better located—and any more different than bulk producers in the Abruzzo lowlands. The family's vineyards, at more than 900 feet above sea level, enjoy a slow cook, with warm afternoons and cool evenings. “We try to work in a simple way,” says Elena, to let the estate's terroir speak clearly; all field work, including the harvest, is done by hand. Their Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo wines represent fruit-forward, single-varietal bottlings that are both rich in flavor and represent great value.

The food: Crescionda, from the regional tourist site:

• 3 eggs
• 80g of flour 00
• 80g of sugar
• 100g of grated dark pebbles
• 500ml of whole milk
• 100g of amaretto biscuit
• 20gr of unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
• Grated zest of 1 lemon

• In a bowl, beat the eggs together with the sugar
   
• Add the cinnamon powder and the bitter cocoa and continue to mix the mixture with a whisk.
   
• Add the grated zest of a lemon and the grated dark chocolate.
   
• Add the flour and the shredded macaroons.
   
• Finally, gradually add the milk until get a fairly liquid compound. Let's pour it into a pan with a diameter of 24cm previously covered with parchment paper.
   
• Bake in a ventilated oven at 180 ° C for 25-30 minutes.
   
• Take it out of the oven and let it cool completely before taking it out of the mold. If possible, leave the Spoleto crescionda to rest for at least one night in the refrigerator before serving.
   
• Decorate the surface with macaroons or unsweetened cocoa powder.