Monday, May 14, 2012

Wines of the Giro Stage 9


http://www.gazzetta.it/Speciali/Giroditalia/2012/it/tappa.shtml?t=09&lang=en

 
San Giorgio nel Sannio to Fronsinone 
Stage type: Flat Length of the course: 166 KM
Cycling Weekly tells me that:  After a couple of days in the hills, the race turns to flatter country with a relatively short 166km stage from San Giorgio del Sannio to Frosinone.The stage has a slight sting in the tail, with a rise and descent just a couple of kilometres before the finish. Expect to see a couple of late attackers try to spoil the sprinters' party whilst the overall contenders have a 'rest day' in the bunch.

Sure enough a break went out early but by around 50 km left, was down to ~2 minutes with rain ahead at the finishing line. Soon enough it was time to set out for our walk to school, 2 miles for anyone counting, and I switched from Eurosport to the Giro app. And, time for a new Italian word for K: caduta. Plus, $.50 pay my fine for my not so muttered curses as Goss went down in the final corner and took Cavendish and others down with him. Francesco Ventoso went clear to take the win for Movistar.

Stage: Francisco Ventoso
Maglia Rosa: Ryder Hesjedal
GC:  

Result
1 Ryder Hesjedal (Can) Garmin - Barracuda 36:02:40  
2 Joaquim Rodriguez Oliver (Spa) Katusha Team 0:00:09  
3 Paolo Tiralongo (Ita) Astana Pro Team 0:00:15  
4 Benat Intxausti Elorriaga (Spa) Movistar Team 0:00:35  
5 Ivan Basso (Ita) Liquigas-Cannondale 0:00:40  
6 Damiano Caruso (Ita) Liquigas-Cannondale 0:00:45  
7 Dario Cataldo (Ita) Omega Pharma-Quickstep 0:00:46  
8 Frank Schleck (Lux) RadioShack-Nissan 0:00:48  
9 Eros Capecchi (Ita) Liquigas-Cannondale 0:00:52  
10 Rigoberto Uran Uran (Col) Sky Procycling 0:00:53  

Wine: 07 "Coenobium Rusticum" Bianco $33.00 at Biondivino 
I'm going to include info here from the importer, but you should really go and read Alder Yarrow's post at Vinography.

From the importer:
History of the Domaine:
Fate can have lovely consequences.  Our fortuitous encounter with the Bea family of Umbria of course led to the unearthing of one of the great domaines of Italy.  But, we have been additionally blessed as we marched together with Giampiero Bea as he made the acquaintance of the Sisters of the Cistercian order living and working at their monastery in Vitorchiano, ninety minutes or so north of Rome in the Lazio district.  Here at this quiet religious outpost eighty women of this religious order work vineyards and orchards and gardens organically.  Under the guidance of Bea, they produce two wines as honest and sympathetic and gracious as they are.

Composition of the Domaine:
The vineyards are planted to a series of four essentially local white grape varieties: Malvasia, Verdicchio, Grechetto and Trebbiano.

The Rusticum is a blend of the same four grapes (Trebbiano, Malvasia, Verdicchio and Grechetto) but, in this instance, the juice is left to ferment on the lees for a period of two weeks or more, extracting all of the flavors, colors and textures of its fruit.  The result is a wine of often deep golden color and penetrating minerality with hints of herbs, particularly anise, and wild flowers.  There are approximately 4000 bottles produced annually of this cuvée, the overwhelming majority of which comes to the USA. 
55% Trebbiano, 15% Verdicchio, 20% Malvasia and 10% Grechetto.

I say:  And we have our second orange wine of the Giro, this one from nuns. A bit more yellow than the La Stoppa, this wine smelled of dried orange, malt, cider and roasted nuts.  In the mouth it is complex and changing, a really gorgeous wine.  Tannin and structure made a friend say that on first taste she might have thought this was a red wine.

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Wines of the Giro Stage 8

http://www.gazzetta.it/Speciali/Giroditalia/2012/it/tappa.shtml?t=08&lang=en
Sulmona-Lago Laceno 
Stage type: Medium Mountain Length of the course: 229 KM
Happy Mother's Day.

The Giro folks sent out a tweet with their thoughts on the stage:
 giroditalia 6:16am via Web
Very nervous stage today. The profile looks like an electrocardiogram. It will be a great show #giro

Another day, another break. Although it was up to 6 minutes at one point, one rider was within 2 minutes of the lead, so it was expected that the peloton would not let them stay away. With around 45 kilometers left, the break was still around 5 minutes and the scenery was more interesting than the day's racing. 
A student protest did at least entertain the Eurosport commentators, who enjoyed discussing memories of protests at races. The post here on Inrg has a great picture of Bernard Hinault in 1982 responding to protesters with his fists. 

With 35 kiometers left, the break was around 3 minutes and Eurosport was showing the grupetto with Cavendish, Phinney and more. Clearly, we were all still waiting for the great show referenced above. At 17.5 km remaining, the break was caught or as La Gazzetta told me " gruppo compatto."
With a steep section looming, Astana massed at the front, perhaps hoping for another stage victory. Next to the front was Liquigas as many riders fell off the back. The attacker of the day was Domenico Pozzovivo, who got a very large gap very quickly, and stayed away to win the stage. Next to attack was Beñat Intxausti, as Ryder Hesjedal struggled to hang on. In the end, Hesjedal did hang on to finish with most of the pre-race favorites and keep pink.

Stage: Domenico Pozzovivo
Maglia Rosa: Ryder Hesjedal
GC: 
1  Hesjedal (GRM) 32:23:25
2  Joa. Rodríguez (KAT) +9
3 Tiralongo (AST) +15
4  Kreuziger (AST) +35
5  Intxausti (MOV) +35
6  I. Basso (LIQ) +40
7 D. Caruso (LIQ) +45
8 Cataldo (OPQ) +46
9 F. Schleck (RNT) +48
10  Capecchi (LIQ) +52
11 R. Urán (SKY) +53
12 Scarponi (LAM) +54
13  Pozzovivo (COG) +55


Wine: Venditti Sannio Rosso $17.00 at Biondivino

Back in 1988, the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso introduced the word organic for the first time with its review of Venditti's wines.  For over 20 years, Nicola Venditti has believed in tilling the soil and being certified organic. Those who still believe that “organic” equals “non-scientific” should think again. Nicola is an enologist and the very incarnation of a contadino (farmer). The vineyards have been in the family for over 400 years (thus the “antica” part of Antica Masseria), and he feels deeply passionate about his territory of Sannio, an area that may be less well known than the neighboring Taurasi, but is a real forgotten gem
Nicola Venditti eschews oak and kneels at the altar of steel; letting these wines really show their clean and distinct fruit of the native grapes (some of which he only cultivates). Come before harvest, and Mr. Venditti will  you taste the rare grape Barbertta in his didactic vineyard; and explain how Montepulciano and Barbera where catch-words for varieties people knew by sight by didn't have a set name for. His cantina is clean and he gladly whistles out PH and acid levels for those inclined. This humanist-techno-geek approach, he explains, is a combination of the "humanity" of ancient methods and local varieties, together with the "rationality" offered by technology.
He night-time harvests in order to bring in the grapes at a lower temperature for more precise aromatics and fruit flavors. The cleaner and fresher that the fruit is brought in, the cleaner and fresher the wine.  The harvest continues through the night and ends with a celebration: a large traditional breakfast, replete with wine, bread, and other various sweet and salty foods. Bread dipped in wine is a favorite.

Field blend of 50% "Montepulciano," 30% Olivella, 20% Aglianico. Deep purple color; nose of mulberry and cured black olives; walnut skin tannins; top flower notes. The native Olivella give that a hint of flower, as well as, some structure to the wine. "Montepulciano is in quotes because it seems very different (in taste and morphology) from the Montepulciano found in Abruzzo and elsewhere. Long live the daily drinkin' field blend and family style meals. 

I say: Pretty.  Deep purple with a nose that suggests flowers and cherries. Fresh, vibrant and juicy. I like this one a lot.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Wines of the Giro Stage 7 Recanati – Rocca Di Cambio

http://www.gazzetta.it/Speciali/Giroditalia/2012/it/tappa.shtml?t=07&lang=en



An uphill finish! Stage 7 takes the riders from Recanati to Rocca Di Cambio. Rocca Di Cambio was a popular destination for finishing stages of the Giro in the 1960′s having hosted stage finishes in ’65, ’66 and ’68. Shortly after leaving L’Aquila, the climb to Rocca Di Cambio begins. The final 17.5km climb is at an average of 4.5%, peaking at 9%  not far from the summit. 

On paper - or screen - today's sharp, uphill finish looks like it should make the overall contenders show their hand for the first time. However, many will be mindful that there are still two weeks and some proper high mountains still to come.
What we'll probably get, then, is a whittled down group of riders heading up the Rocca di Cambio all nervously looking at each other and with no real time gains made by any of the big contenders in isolation. Although we'd love to be proved wrong.

And off they went. Cue a break, this time with four riders: Reto Hollenstein, Matteo Rabottini, 
Fumiyuki Beppu and Mirko Selvaggi. With about 80k from the finish, they were ahead of the peloton by around eight minutes, while Eurosport discussed the difficult stages coming in the last week of the race. I feel sometimes for the cycling announcers, they have a lot of air time to fill and there are many moments with little action to describe. With around 68 or so kilometers left the discussion focused on the languages spoken by the different teams. 
Just around that point it was time for a weekly Ferry Plaza farmers market trip. This is often a problem during live races, but to my great delight, I discovered that with the Giro iphone app I can watch while anywhere. So apricots and racing, though I admit to frequent shopping breaks because things did get interesting today as Astana's Paolo Tiralongo came around Michele Scarponi in the last few meters for the stage victory.  Frank Schleck finished third ahead of Joaquim Rodriguez, while Garmin's Ryder Hesjedal finished fifth and became the first Canadian to wear the magia rosa. Do go and see this great picture at Podium Cafe of the stage winner after crossing the line.

Stage: Paolo Tiralongo
Maglia Rosa: Ryder Hesjedal 

General classification after stage 7
1 Ryder Hesjedal (Can) Garmin - Barracuda 26:16:53
2 Paolo Tiralongo (Ita) Astana Pro Team 0:00:15
3 Joaquim Rodriguez Oliver (Spa) Katusha Team 0:00:17
4 Christian Vande Velde (USA) Garmin - Barracuda 0:00:21
5 Peter Stetina (USA) Garmin - Barracuda 0:00:26
6 Daniel Moreno Fernandez (Spa) Katusha Team
7 Roman Kreuziger (Cze) Astana Pro Team 0:00:35
8 Ivan Basso (Ita) Liquigas-Cannondale 0:00:40
9 Giampaolo Caruso (Ita) Katusha Team 0:00:45
10 Dario Cataldo (Ita) Omega Pharma-Quickstep



http://www.vinusinc.com/Jasci.html


The wine: Jasci Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009 $16.99 from  67 Wine

The importer says: The generous vineyards of Jasci have been handed down from generation to generation, forming an irreplaceable heritage and tie to the Earth. Located in the Abruzzo region, the sunny rolling hills between sea and mountain coupled with old fashioned techniques and modern technology have resulted in wines synonymous with quality and genuineness.
The Jasci family personally participates in every stage of their wine production throughout the art of their viticulture, while respecting Mother Earth and her best products. The wines are tenderly cared for throughout creation, and then are stored in the Jasci cellar, which was constructed and prepared in part by using modern and functional organic architecture, where they rest and mature with close attention.
Since 1980, Jasci wines have been certified
organic by the Soil and Health Association, which guarantees the organic production of their grapes in the Colli in Vasto and the Masseria Martina in Pollutri, as well as all the winemaking processes.
The vineyards are cared for daily in order to identify preventive measures needed in each of the winemaking phases, which preserves the genuineness of the fruits of that delicate balance between technology and tradition that is Jasci.
Winery website: www.jasci.it 

Ruby red, with hints of mature red fruits, jams and slight notes of cinnamon and vanilla. Balanced and harmonious with a touch of pleasant tannins

Best with the following Abruzzese cuisine: Potato gnocchi, “sagnette e fagioli” (pasta with beans), lamb, and stuffed rabbit

I say: Organic! Yup, ruby red. Cherries and tannin. Easy to drink. Paired well with my burger.

 

 

Friday, May 11, 2012

Wines of the Giro: Stage 6 Urbino – Porto Sant’Elpidio


http://www.gazzetta.it/Speciali/Giroditalia/2012/it/tappa.shtml?t=06&lang=en
Stage 6 Urbino – Porto Sant’Elpidio (210 km)
And we have a hill. Or, according to the Giro home page, a medium mountain. Really, kind of a roller coaster stage today as the riders head southeast through the Macerata and Fermano Apennine valleys with short, sharp ascents followed by technical descents.

Cycling Weekly says that:  Having been 'eased' into the 2012 Giro with a couple of time trials and a handful of flat stages, the race hits its first serious day in the hills.
Four categorised climbs - three third cat and one second cat - punctuate the central section of the day. The highest peak of Passo della Cappella is on unmade roads, favouring the Classics hardmen.
The profile has 'escape group' written all over it, and we could see the first victory from a non-sprinter.

Off they went with the inevitable break gaining time ahead of the peloton. Then came news of the first withdrawals from the race: Former world champion Thor Hushovd and Romain Feillu abandoned, while Tyler Farrar and Pablo Lastras crashed out of the race. Also our first large grupetto of the race, the group of sprinters that ride together in hopes of coming in under the time limit. 
In the end Colombian rider Miguel Rubiano won the stage after a solo attack from the break with around 45km to go. He crossed the line in a time of 5:38:30, earning himself the 20-second time bonus on offer. Adriano Malori  takes over the pink jersey after finishing second in the stage, just edging out Michal Golas for a 12-second bonus.

The stage:Miguel Angel Rubiano Chave
Maglia Rosa:Adriano Malori
Overall: 
  • Malori 
  • Golas, at 0.15 
  • Ryder Hesjedal, Garmin-Barracuda, at 0.17 
  • Rubiano Chavez, at 0.30 
  • Christian VandeVelda, Garmin, at 0.32


The Wine: Bianchello Morelli 2010 $12.99 from 67Wine

From the importer: Many believe that Rome was saved in 207 BC when the invading Carthaginians drank too much Bianchello and were turned back at banks of the Metauro River.
Whatever the case, Bianchello has been a favorite of Le Marche for centuries and was given immediate DOC status in 1969. Morelli’s bianchello is grown on a mere 1.3ha of terraced vineyards. The fruit ferments at low temperature for 15-20 days without the skins, and then matures over four months in stainless steel. This careful production creates refreshing white wine with weight and a wholly unique flavor profile.
100% Bianchello 100% Stainless Steel Soil

From Melissa at 67Wine (who suggested this bottle and many of my other Giro wines):  Hands down! This wine will be on your 2012 greatest whites hit list. And you'll be supporting biodiversity as well since Bianchello, the grape hailing from the Le Marche DOC of Bianchello del Metauro, is fabled to have been cultivated and vinified by the Romans. Some estimate the its recorded history can be dated back to 500 BCE. Known synonymously as Biancame, Morelli's wine has solid structure, showing zingy green apple and a solid snap of acidity. It's decidedly pleasant and thoroughly enjoyable on its own or with the catch of the day. Pair with some salty, semi-firm sheep's milk cheese as well.

I say: Refreshing in a very good way. Slightly herbal with lots of fruit and acidity. A reminder that, as I say every year during the wines of the Giro, that I should drink more Italian whites.  No fish here tonight, but pairing beautifully with my current 4505 Meats obsession: the half River Dog Farms chicken, marinated and ready to roast at home.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Wines of the Giro Stage 5

http://www.gazzetta.it/Speciali/Giroditalia/2012/it/tappa.shtml?t=05&lang=en

Modena to Fano 209km Flat

The Cycling Weekly race preview suggests that: "After the efforts of the previous day's team time trial there may be some sore legs in the bunch. Luckily, the riders won't have to think very much during the course of the day -  the route from Modena to Fano looks like it was drawn on a map with a ruler.
It's a straight run south-east to the coast. There's a small collection of hills near the finish, which may favour a late attack although they may well get caught in the final, flat 10 kilometres to the line."
I was most amused by this bit of the stage preview on Podium Cafe, where I lurk often: 
" I confess, I don't have a huge amount to say about Thursday's stage 5 of the Giro d'Italia. What? At loss for words? Well, not really. But tomorrow's stage is impressively flat. Flat like... well, picture something really really flat and you pretty much have this stage profile."
So, really really flat and like it was drawn by a ruler. Sounds like a day for a doomed breakaway and a bunch sprint. Indeed, when live coverage started, we had a 4 rider break with more than 5 minutes over the peloton. Indeed, with 64 km to go, the gap: was still at 5'33. And after a few sprinters dropped off on the slight hills, it was a textbook finish for the Sky train and Mark Cavendish, who had a special visit in the form of her very young daughter, Delilah. 

Stage winner: Mark Cavendish
Maglia Rosa:  Ramunas Navardauskas,

A slightly blurry Willow was rather curious about my attempts to photograph the color of today's wine.

The wine: La Stoppa Ageno Emilia IGT 2006 $39.99 from 67wine

From the producer website: La Stoppa is an ancient estate with its vines climbing along the slopes of the Val Trebbiola, not far from the River Trebbia, in the province of Piacenza.The estate covers 58 hectares, 28 of which is woodland - oak, chestnut and locust-tree and 30 of which are vineyards, all merged together and dominated by a medieval tower. More than a hundred years ago, the previous owner, lawyer Ageno, planted French vines and produced wines from meaningful names which were a little peculiar because they were Italianised: Bordò, Bordò bianco e Pinò.

In 1973, La Stoppa was purchased by the Pantaleoni family, who recently modernised and transformed the cellar. Today the estate is run by Elena Pantaleoni, who along with Julius Armani wanted major investments to be devoted to the vineyard, worked on organically and certified by ‘Suolo e Salute’.
The low yields and the fundamental quality of the grapes mean that the wines are characterised by the vineyard and not betrayed by excessive work in the cellar. Today La Stoppa produces a few labels, some relating to native grape varieties such as, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Bonarda, Barbera and others like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Semillon.

Melissa at 67Wine says: An orange wine of mostly Malvasia. Ageno is a gorgeous amber in the glass showing candied orange and a heady whiff of gardenia. Decanting is recommended. Also, serve around cellar temp; don't over chill. For food, I'd have with cured meats, wild boar. The hazy quality is intended, resulting from a fermentation process of 30+ days and extended aging on lees for 12 months in large neutral barrel before bottling.

I say: Well now that is a pretty nose. Very much the candied orange mentioned above. Amazing color as well, a sort of hazy orange.  I'm often more of a fan of orange wines in theory rather than in my mouth, but this is an exception. On the palate there is tannin but also flowers and white tea. Pairs beautifully with my home made meatballs, this time without tomato sauce. My favorite wine of the Giro so far.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Wines of the Giro: Stage 4 Verona Time Trial

http://maps.pickatrail.com/europe/italy/verona.html
 

And we have the Team Time Trial! The TTT seems to be one of those love it or hate it parts of a race. Either one delights in the beauty and teamwork or grows frustrated on how it can change the race for contenders on weaker teams.

Much like the individual time trial, in the TTT cyclists race against the clock, but this time as a team.Teams start at equal intervals, several minutes apart. Start times are based on race standings, with the highest ranked teams starting later. Thus, BMC, with race leader Taylor Phinney, was the last up today. Unlike individual time trials where riders are not permitted to draft behind each other, in TTTs, riders in each team employ this as their main tactic, each member taking a turn at the front while team-mates ride in single file behind. After each has their turn, the riders will swing over, allowing the next rider to take the lead, while the leader goes to the back of the team.

Today in Verona the route was 32.2 kilometers, mainly flat with a hill near mid course.The favorites going in were Garmin, Greenedge, Sky, BMC and in some places, Liquigas. Given the start times, that meant that most of the favorites would be out on the course late, with Sky,  Radioshack - Nissan, Orica - Greenedge, Garmin - Barracuda, and BMC the last teams to ride. In the end Garmin clocked 37 minutes, 4 seconds with Katusha second and 5 seconds behind, and Astana and Saxo Bank next, both 22 seconds back.

Stage win: Garmin Barracuda
Pink: Ramunas Navardauskas

http://www.viniventurini.com/eng/schede/valpolicella-classico.htm


Wine: Venturini Massimino Valpolicella Classico 2010 $15.00

Azienda Agricola Venturini is located in San Floriano in the district of San Pietro in Cariano. It was established in 1963 continuing on the experience and love for the land that goes back for least three generations. The estate, located on the hilly area of the Valpolicella Classico,  extends for 22 acres all planted to vineyards at an elevation of 800 feet above sea level. The vineyards enjoy a southwestern exposure and are planted on terraces held up by stonewalls called “marogne”. The vine training system is typical of the area: “simple” and “double” pergolas.
The winery is run by the Venturini family, using only estate grown grapes: 70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella, 10% Molinara, they make certified “Denominazione di Origine Controllata” wines: Amarone, Recioto, Valpolicella Classico and Classico Superiore.

Wine Enthusiast: This dark ruby Valpolicella Classico delivers soft tones of mocha coffee and java cream over a tight base of bright berry fruit. Sour cherry and bitter white almond bring up the rear and contrast the wine’s softness with crisp freshness.

I say: First sip showed the mocha above but not a lot else. After some swirling, the fruit became more pronounced, but on its own, I was not a huge fan. Paired with a friend's recipe for "Magnificent" meatballs, however, it was much improved. 

Monday, May 7, 2012

Wines of the Giro Stage 3 Horsens, Denmark: Akvavit

Another day in Denmark.

Etape 3 - Horsens-Horsens
http://www.girostart2012.com/the+giro/stage+3/?s=177


GiroStarts 2012 tells me that: Both the start and finishing line are in Horsens for the third and last of the stages in Denmark. The peloton will follow a route along the south side of Horsens inlet via Glud towards Juelsminde before the route goes north back to Horsens and continues along the northern side of the inlet in the direction of Odder. From there the route leads the peloton west crossing two of the highest points in Denmark: Ejer Bavnehøj and Yding Skovhøj before reaching Horsens via Brædstrup.
The route will then take the peloton back to Horsens where they will pass the finish line at Strandpromenaden and ride a 14 kilometer loop around the city, three times. 

The day started with a memorial to Wouter Weylandt, who died during the race’s third stage almost one year ago and Jan Trojberg, the mayor of the start town of Horsens, who died suddenly on Sunday. 
The stage itself went much as expected. A break went out early and was caught. The peloton came into the finishing town all together, once again set up for a bunch sprint. The sprint though, was marred by a crash taking out not only Mark Cavendish but the race leader, Taylor Phinney, as well. Cavendish did get up and cross the line, after some fine bike handling from a few riders to avoid his head, but Phinney did not. Early speculation is that it could be a broken ankle. More on that to come. Rest Day tomorrow as they fly to Italy to continue the race.

Stage winner: Matt Goss
Maglia Rosa:Taylor Phinney

To drink: Today, something traditionally Danish. Indeed, Akvavit from Aalborg.


To say that I know very little about Akvavit would not be an exaggeration. But, The San Francisco Chronicle again to the rescue: 
"The drink: "Aquavit is indeed the national spirit," says Martin Bjelgaard, marketing director V&S Distillers, which produces 17 different aquavits, including Aalborg Taffel, Hoker Snaps, Harald Jensen and Aalborg Jubilaeums. Ranging in hue from clear to brown and even bright red, some Danish aquavits are aged in barrels and some are flavored with oak or berry extracts. Most have forward dill, coriander and caraway flavors. 

The tradition: Don't sip a shot of aquavit while in Denmark. But before chugging the stuff down, take time to toast your companions. Danes raise their glasses together, say "skal" (which sounds like "skull"), and make eye contact with each person at the table before drinking. Before setting their empty glasses back down on the table, they again make eye contact with each person. While each shot of aquavit is served with a glass of beer, expect at least two rounds - "because you need one for each leg," says tour guide Ida Saval - with the toast repeated each time.

The food: Danes typically enjoy aquavit at lunches that can linger into late afternoon. Traditional midday meals feature herring and smorrebrod (open-face sandwiches)."

I say: Well, then, that is slightly intimidating. I had planned on a cocktail. A friend had recommended the Trident, which I will try at a later date. But who am I to go against tradition? Skal!