Friday, July 27, 2018

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2018: Stage 19: Lourdes to Laruns

Where are we?
Lourdes: The regional tourism site tells me that:  Cosmopolitan, magical and mythical… Lourdes is one of those extraordinary other worldly places. Each year more than 6 million visitors from more than 140 countries visit Lourdes. It was in 1858 in this small mountain town that a young girl called Bernadette saw 18 separate apparitions of the Virgin Mary in a cave close to the river. It is the second most visited town in France after Paris, but Lourdes possesses a calm and tranquillity to offer a place of prayer, charm and legend which leaves nobody insensitive.

To discover in Lourdes

  • The sanctuaries: In 1857 the Virgin Mary made 18 apparitions to Bernadette Soubirous, at the Massabielle grotto. Since then the sanctuaries have received millions of visitors of all nationalities and all faiths. This «Universal» site is accessible 24h / 24h and throughout the year welcomes visitors from the world over. Things to see : the Massabielle Grotto, the Basilica (Immaculate Conception, the underground Basilica Pius 10th, Our Lady of the Rosary, in the form of a cross), the crypt, the St Bernadette church, the Adoration tent, the Reconciliation Chapel and the exterior stations of the cross.
    Not to be missed is the torchlight procession which takes place every evening at 9pm from April to October.

  • A Visit to the Castle. Classed as a historical monument, it played a major part in Lourdes history during the 11th and 12th centuries. Since 1921 it houses a Pyreneam museum, one of the 'Museums de France', it possesses one of the most important collections on the history of the French and Spanish Pyrenees (costumes, furniture, rituals, agriculture, pastoralism, artisans...).
    The + are the wonderful botanical gardens on its terrace.
The Pic du Jer funicular railway. Easily recognised by the cross at the summit, the Pic du Jer towers over the town of Lourdes and offers a magnificent panorama over the Pyrenees.
The +: Access is by funicular railway, the summit which is at 1000m of altitude is then easily reached in just a few minutes.
LeTour specialties: Bigorre black pork, garbure (meat and vegetable stew), gâteau à la broche (spit-baked cake), Pyrenean cheese, Pailhasson chocolates, Malespine sweets

Laruns: A first time stage city! Francethisway tells me that:
Laruns is situated in a lovely setting the mountains of the National Park of the Pyrenees, 35 km south of Pau, in the Pyrénées Atlantiques department, with easy access to some of the finest scenery to be found in the Pyrenees.
Laruns village: The village itself contains some good examples of the typical Pyreneean architecture, as well as the 16th century village Church of Saint-Pierre and some houses with attractively designed lintels above the doors, also a large marble fountain in the main square. Although there are no great sites to detain you for long it is a pleasant town to explore.
Local events in Laruns: The weekly market in Laruns is held on a Saturday morning, and on Thursday evenings during the summer. On the 15th August each year there is a traditional dance, in costume, held in the village, and there is an important regional cheese fair held here the first Sunday in October by the local cheese producers.
LeTour specialties: Lamb, garbure (meat and vegetable stew), Ossau cheese



 
The stage:  Our final mountains of thus year's Tour and almost immediately we had attacks to create a break.


By kilometer 58, there was a group of 18 riders in the lead: Jungels, Barguil, Kangert, Mollema, Nieve, Izagirre, Yates, Alaphilippe, Chavanel, Vichot, Amador, Slagter, Dillier, Burghardt, Bennati, Hardy, Postlberger, and Gaudin. Their gap was 3:25.
Visibly struggling on the day: Peter Sagan, after his crash earlier this week.
It would be a long day for him.


The riders wouldn't have the chance to enjoy it, but lovely scenery today:


On the road, the front group was breaking up as riders dropped off the back. Excellent news: Julian Alaphilippe crested the col d'Aspin in first position. He had mathematically won the King of the Mountains classification of the 105th Tour de France and I was delighted.
With 112 kilometers remaining, there was 12 riders in the lead group:
Adam Yates and Mikel Nieve (Mitchelton-Scott), Julian Alaphilippe and Bob Jungels (Quick Step), Tanel Kangert (Astana), Warren Barguil and Romain Hardy (Fortuneo-Samsic), Gorka Izagirre (Bahrain-Merida), Andrey Amador and Daniele Bennati (Movistar), Tom-Jelte Slagter (Dimension Data) and Bauke Mollema (Trek-Segafredo).
Ahead:


 
With 100 kilometers to go, Adam Yates and Mikel Nieve (Mitchelton-Scott), Julian Alaphilippe and Bob Jungels (Quick Step), Tanel Kangert (Astana), Warren Barguil (Fortuneo-Samsic), Gorka Izagirre (Bahrain-Merida) and Andrey Amador (Movistar) had a  2:30 lead over Bardet, Zakarin and Landa.


Sky continued to look unconcerned.




At the downhill in Luz-Saint-Sauveur, the six leaders and the five chasers were separated by :25. the yellow jersey group was 2:50 behind. Sagan's group was 19 minutes back.
With 65 kilometers to go, our leaders were Mikel Nieve (Mitchelton-Scott), Julian Alaphilippe and Bob Jungels (Quick Step), Tanel Kangert (Astana), Warren Barguil (Fortuneo-Samsic), Gorka Izagirre (Bahrain-Merida), Mikel Landa and Andrey Amador (Movistar), Romain Bardet (AG2R-La Mondiale), Ilnur Zakarin (Katusha-Alpecin) and Rafal Majka (Bora-Hansgrohe). They had three minutes over the peloton and Landa was in virtual second place overall.
Virtual standing with 55 kilometers to go:
1 Thomas
2 Landa +1’19”
3 Bardet +1’58”
3 Dumoulin +1’59”
5 Froome +2’31”

That front group would start to attack each other. Done for the day, Alaphilippe, who set a new record  earlier: Since the inception of the HC category in 1979, five riders were holding the record of cresting three HC climbs in first position: Gert-Jan Theunisse in 1989, Tony Rominger in 1993, Richard Virenque in 1995, Thomas Voeckler in 2012 and Warren Barguil in 2017. Julian Alaphilippe has now set an all-time record with four: Glières, Bisanne, Madeleine and Tourmalet.
DNF: Jelle Vanendert who had been riding alone for most of the day.
Forty five kilometers to go and the gap to the yellow jersey group was down to 2:15.


Attacking from the yellow jersey group: Kruijswijk. Sky would simply let him go.
Up front, Landa and Bardet would attack the lead group and get a gap. They would soon be joined by Majka.
Behind, Dumoulin tried, but he was chased down immediately. Off the back of that group, Quintana. Dumoulin would try again but Thomas was glued to his back wheel.
To be honest, even as a Geraint Thomas fantasy team owner, I miss Nibali.
Attack by Roglic. He was followed by Froome, Thomas, and Dumoulin.  He would kick again and Froome would struggle.
They would reach Kruijswijk, leaving Thomas isolated.
Meanwhile with 30 kilometers to go, Zakarin was back with Landa, Bardet and Majka at the front. Their gap was around 30 seconds.
On the descent, some regrouping in the gc group as Froome, Martin and Bernal made it back.


As the yellow jersey group closed in an attack by Majka, hoping for a stage win. He had a small gap.
More attacks and yellow jersey group was shrinking again as the neared the top of the climb.
Next up, twenty kilometers of downhill. The mist would add to the drama. Not that far into that descent and they would catch Majka. 
Roglic at least seemed to be enjoying himself. Cue yet another ski-jumping reference from the commentators.
Roglic in fact was descending so well and he got a gap on the group.


Two kilometers to go and he had 17 seconds. He would hold on, gaining valuable seconds before the time trial tomorrow.


Tomorrow will be interesting:




 Stage: 



GC:
1 GERAINT THOMAS
TEAM SKY 79h 49' 31'' -

2 TOM DUMOULIN
TEAM SUNWEB 79h 51' 36'' + 00h 02' 05''

3 PRIMOŽ ROGLIC
TEAM LOTTO NL - JUMBO 79h 51' 55'' + 00h 02' 24''

4 CHRIS FROOME
TEAM SKY 79h 52' 08'' + 00h 02' 37''

5 STEVEN KRUIJSWIJK
TEAM LOTTO NL - JUMBO 79h 54' 08'' + 00h 04' 37''

6 MIKEL LANDA MEANA
MOVISTAR TEAM 79h 54' 11'' + 00h 04' 40''

7 ROMAIN BARDET
AG2R LA MONDIALE 79h 54' 46'' + 00h 05' 15''

8 DANIEL MARTIN
UAE TEAM EMIRATES 79h 56' 10'' + 00h 06' 39''

9 NAIRO QUINTANA
MOVISTAR TEAM 79h 59' 57'' + 00h 10' 26''

10 ILNUR ZAKARIN
TEAM KATUSHA ALPECIN 80h 01' 20'' + 00h 11' 49''



The wine:  Domaine Ameztia Irouleguy
From the San Francisco Wine Trading Company

They say: The Costera family has been producing wine since the 17th century, most of which was sold off. In 2001 Jean-Louis Costera built a new facility with the intention of crafting world-class Irouleguy and they haven't looked back. The wine has golden apple, ripe pear, hints of honeysuckle and a stony minerality.

The food: Presse de porc noir de Bigorre au sautoir, physalis compotés au Pineau des Charentes (“Presa” of Black Pork of Bigorre in the pan in physalis and Pineau des Charantes sauce) from LeTour
20 km from Lourdes, in St Savin, the restaurant Le Viscos was a favourite of former Tour de France TV commentator Jacques chancel and it became one of the favourite eateries of many seasoned Tour followers. The recipe is from its chef Alexis Saint-Martin and is made from black pork of Bigorre and a maize paste.
Ingredients (for 4 persons)
- 2 pieces of “presse” (Spanish “presa”) of black pork of Bigorre
- 500 grams of physalis
- 20 centilitres of veal stock
- 2 bunches of thyme
-  shallots
- 100 grams of maize flour
- ½ litre of chicken broth
- 10 grams of butter
- 1 bottle of Pineau des Charentes (75 cl)
- Salt, pepper
Cut the physalis according to their size. Slice the shallots.
Realisation of the touradisse: bring the chicken broth to a boil and incorporate in it the maize flour. Cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the butter, season with salt and pepper. Spread on a baking sheet.
Cooking: In a pan, sear the presses and set them aside on a roasting tray on a bed of thyme. Bake at 180 ° for 8 to 10 minutes, turning regularly. Degrease the pan and fry the shallots. Add the physalis. deglaze with Pineau des Charentes, then add the veal stock. Reserve the physalis.
Filter and rectify the seasoning. Cut the touradisse into 6 triangles and slightly fry them in an anti-adhesive pan.
Dressing: slice the “presse” into thin slices. In the center of the plate arrange the touradisse and deposit the slices of press harmoniously. Cover the touradisse with the reduction of physalis and Pineau des Charentes.

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1 comment:

  1. SophieMarch 13, 2019 at 1:00 AM

    Really nice and informative blog, keep it up buddy…

    ReplyDelete

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