Saturday, June 1, 2019

Wine and Food of the Giro 2019 Stage 20

Where are we?  FELTRE is in the
south-western section of the Province of Belluno.
Perched on a hill, surrounded by high mountains, for centuries many roads have met at Feltre linking all the surrounding areas. VenetoInsider tells me that: As with Verona, its origins appear to lie with the Reti people who inhabited the Central Alps, though with the advent of the Romans its founding was claimed by them. Feltre is associated with a breathtaking natural setting, and lies in the sun-drenched valley of Valbelluna, to the east of the river Piave and at the foothills of the Dolomites and the Vette Feltrine: a magnificent location, also from a military view.
Moreover it is the largest populated area second only to the provincial capital. Following the domination of the Longobards, traces of whom remain in the names of the city's quarters, and the various families (from the Ezzelini to the Scaglieri), from 1404 the city became indissolubly linked to Venice for almost 400 years, demonstrating unshakeable faith and loyalty to the Republic. In 1509 and 1510 the armies of the Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian I ransacked the city in the League of Cambrai's war against Venice and its allies.
Notwithstanding the razing of the city - thus almost completely destroying the medieval face of the city - and the massacre of many of its inhabitants Feltre remained loyal to Venice; in gratitude for this she paid for the city's reconstruction. Thus was born a new Feltre, with elegant palaces, spectacular squares, porticoes and loggia which soon housed a wealthy merchant class. Accompanying this economic prosperity came cultural and artistic riches: the frescoed house-fronts bear witness to Feltre's fame as the 'painted city'.
The main street, Via Mezzaterra, is lined with typical Renaissance houses, with pointed roofs to protect against snow: the magnificent Piazza Maggiore which offers a splendid view of the castle remains, the church of San Rocco and the 16th century fountain of Tullio Lombardo. Via Lorenzo Luzzo, one of the streets leading off the piazza, and named after a celebrated local artist, continues the trial of Renaissance palazzi. The Museo Civico is also to be found here.

CROCE D'AUNE-MONTE AVENA The Croce d’Aune is a mountain pass in the Italian Dolomites, 1,015 metres (3,330 ft) above sea level, between Aune and Pedavena in Belluno Province


The stage: We've all been waiting for this one. The language is a bit dramatic, but the stage could live up to the hype. Speaking of the stage, the profile is daunting, to say the least.



 On the road, a breakaway with Masnada at the front. The real focus though: the rapidly shrinking pink jersey group. With over 100 kilometers to go, there were only 13 remaining, though some of the favorites did have teammates out front in the breakaway group.
Just a little pressure for Nibali today:


Wow. Speaking of, Nibali clearly struggling around 117 kilometers to go. Ahead from the favorites group: Lopez, Landa and Carapaz. Next on the road: Nibali, Roglic and Sivakov. They were all not far from teammates up the road.
Up ahead, Masnada was heading solo to the Cima Coppi, otherwise known as the highest point in this year's race. As he started down, we had a preview of the narrow roads on this descent. Speaking of the descent, Nibali and Roglic made it back to the pink jersey group. That group was rapidly closing in on Masnada at the front.
100 kilometers to go and Masnada had just over a 30 second gap to the regrouped favorites group of 18.  First to reach him: Bilbao. Time, perhaps, for a little bit of a reset. The gc group contained:
Landa (MOV), Amador (MOV), Carapaz (MOV), Masnada (ANS), López (AST), Bilbao (AST), Cataldo (AST, Hirt (AST), Nibali (TBM), Caruso (TBM), Majka (BOH), Carthy (EF1), Kangert (EF1), Nieve (MTS), Gehereigzabher (TDD), Sivakov (INS), Dunbar (INS), Roglic (TJV), Zakarin (TKA), Hindley (SUN)
and Mollema (TFS). 
Surging to the front: Bilbao, Kangert, Nieve, Dunbar and Gehereigzabher.


 
68 kilometers to go and we had a front seven: 32 Bilbao (AST), Kangert (EF1), Madouas (GFC), Nieve (MTS), Gehereigzabher (TDD), Dunbar (INS), and Ciccone (TFS). Closing in on them was Capecchi, who would rejoin them eventually. The gc group was about three minutes behind.
My thoughts have turned towards the grupetto, somewhere way behind on these roads. Oh gruppetto cam, why have you remained just a dream?
Our gap:


 
Fifty kilometers to go and the gap was 2:57. An update on our friends out the back: Gap with 40km to go, 3:15. Meanwhile, the group of the backmarkers has just passed the GPM on the Passo Rolle, 26:10 behind. Ouch.
Under 30 kilometers to go and where were the attacks? It looked like everyone was waiting for the final climbs. 
Up front, the breakaway riders started to attack each other. 
The last climb of Giro!
Finally, movement from the gc group with Lopez the first to try. Time for the fun. Next to attack and getting a gap: Landa.
Spectator literally pushing Roglic up the road. 


Time for a very fast descent with Nibali at the front. Coming off his bike, Majka.
Catching Landa: Nibali and Carapaz.
Nibali chatting with Landa, perhaps asking for help in growing his lead over Roglic. Behind, Lopez off his bike. A fan on the road causing a huge problem making Lopez so angry he actually smacked him.
Once again, many small groups on the road with limited cameras means that we did not know where everyone is. Roglic, for example, had been invisible for a while.
Nibali continued to try, but Landa and Carapaz were glued to his wheel.
Just under two kilometers to go and another attack by Nibali. But Carapaz and Landa stayed with him.


Blilbao with the stage win!
How far behind were Roglic and the others. Roglic down 54 seconds. Lopez down 1:47.






 The wine: Roccolo Grassi Soave La Broia
From the producer: 
Roccolo Grassi was established in 1996 by Bruno Sartori and his two children Marco and Francesca. The name refers to the estate’s most prized vineyard ‘Roccolo Grassi’. The family’s vision is to harvest quality grapes and to produce relatively low yields of outstanding wine. In total, the estate consists of 14 ha of vineyards farmed sustainably in the regions of Valpolicella and Soave.  

A wine featuring nice aromatic complexity, powerful, fine, enjoyable freshness and minerality. Mineral notes , white flowers, peach are perceived on the nose. In the mouth Soave La Broia is fresh, tasty, and white flowers and fruit are present yet again.
We aim to express at the best the origin of the grapes which grow on alluvial soil with high limestone content. Additionally, wood fermentation increases longevity and complexity.

The food:  Casunzei from Emiko Davies
Casunziei all’ampezzana Beet ravioli with poppyseed sauce
About 5 serves
A simple preparation where the quality of the beets is of utmost importance – they are what sing in this dish. Use fresh, firm beets, don’t even attempt to do this with canned, pre-cooked ones. For US measurements, take a look at my recipe on Food52.
  • 400 grams flour
  • pinch of salt
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 700 grams of fresh beetroot (about 3 medium beets)
  • 250 grams of potato (about 2 small potatoes)
  • 2 peeled garlic cloves, whole
  • olive oil
  • pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
  • pinch of ground cloves
  • 180 grams butter
  • 1 tablespoon poppy seeds
  • 80 grams Parmesan cheese or ricotta salata, grated
Make a pasta dough by combining flour with a pinch of salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre of the flour and crack the eggs into it. Add the olive oil and with a fork, begin to beat the eggs and oil together until creamy, then slowly begin incorporating the flour around it until it begins to get very thick. At this point you may like to start using your hands and work the dough until it is no longer sticky (add flour a bit at a time if you need to) and you have a ball that is smooth, elastic and bounces back if you push a finger into it. Wrap the ball of dough in plastic wrap and let rest at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile prepare the filling. Clean and quarter the beets (I don’t bother peeling them, except for any hard bits) and place in a saucepan of cold water with the potatoes (clean but whole, skin on) and a pinch of salt. Bring the boil and cook until the vegetables are tender (depending on size, the potatoes may need to be removed a little earlier than the beets). Peel the potatoes while warm and mash until smooth. Puree the beets until smooth.
In a skillet, gently heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and add the whole garlic cloves. Over low-medium heat, add the beets and potatoes and cook about 10 minutes or until some of the water has evaporated from the vegetables and the mixture is thick and begins to bubble. Season with salt, pepper, cloves and nutmeg. Remove the garlic and set aside the mixture to cool completely. This can be done the day before.
Make the ravioli by rolling out half of the dough on a floured surface until it is thin enough to see your hand through the other side. Cut out rounds with a regular drinking glass or cookie cutter (approx 3-4 inches or 8-10cm in diameter) and place heaped teaspoons of filling in the centre of each round. Dip a finger in some cold water and trace the edge of the pasta round. Fold the round in half to create half-moon shapes and seal the edges firmly with your fingers. Set the ravioli aside, uncovered, on a lightly floured surface while you finish the rest.
Keep any pasta dough under a tea towel while you work and continue until all the pasta/filling is used up.
Cook ravioli in gently simmering salted water for a couple of minutes, or until they float. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on warm plates. Serve dribbled with melted butter, a scattering of poppy seeds and Parmesan cheese.
 

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