Giro Stage 20: Alpago to Bassano del Grappo

Where are we? In the Veneto

Alpago: the Giro tells me that Alpago is the gateway to the Belluno Dolomites: a unique territory stretching from Lake Santa Croce to the Cansiglio Forest. Here, among forests, water, mountains and hills, you will find tiny, picturesque villages, rich in history and hospitality.

Giro Specialties: Alpago lamb: Alpago has given its name to an indigenous breed of sheep bred mainly for its excellent meat: tasty, firm and so tender that it flakes in the mouth. Contrary to expectations, it does not taste wild at all and pairs perfectly with local dishes such as corn and legume soup.

Bassano del Grappo: In the heart of Veneto, crossed by the river Brenta, the town of Bassano del Grappa is characterized by tourists for its cleanliness, elegance and order.
The two welcoming squares (Garibaldi and Libertà) are protected by refined facades of late medieval buildings, above all stands the town’s civic tower which rises 43 meters.
The town of Bassano del Grappa, at the foot of the Monte Grappa of the same name, the scene of the bloody battles of the First World War, also consists of a vast industrial area specializing in the sectors: Goldsmith, metalworking, furniture.

Giro specialties: Asparago bianco di Bassano DOP is harvested from March to June in the countryside between Bassano, Cassola and San Zeno; Bigoli and Broccolo di Bassano are the protagonists on the table along with extra virgin olive oil, produced in the Bassano foothills/hillside area.

The stage:  One of those fun to watch but certainly not fun to ride stages. 

You have to feel for the riders going out in the break. They have to try, but given the race so far, they and all of the viewers are clearly expecting Pogacar to claim another stage victory. Indeed, the break would never get a large gap. 

The crowds at the summit were large and at times a bit crazy. One wonders how long they had been waiting. 

Under 70 kilometers left and there were only 4 riders in front of the gc group: Pellizzari, Sánchez, Tonelli and Janssens. Janssens was lagging behind the front trip, who had two minutes on the gc group with 58 kms to go. Eventually it would be Pellizzari solo. 

Indeed, eventually Pogacar would go and would lead solo with 34 kms to go.

And there was the stage. 

The wine: From 2013

Monteforche Vigneto Carantina 2010, $24.99

From 67 Wine:
Winemaker Alfonso Soranzo manages a small property with his father in the Colli Eugani. Soranzo, a horn player, decided to leave music five years ago to devote – body and soul - to viticulture. Helped by his father in the vineyards, he personally helms all the cellar operations. The family’s tiny estate is on one of the best plots of Colli Euganei, southwest of Padova. Colli Euganei, while certainly not a well-known appellation in the Veneto, is one of the best areas to grow vines in Italy. Volcanic soils with marl and limestone, good aeration, mild constant winds and average rains make it one of the best growing areas in the Veneto. Particularly, the Vo area (western slopes of mount Venda) is the cooler and fresher of the whole appellation, giving finesse and balance. Using biodynamic practices and ambient yeasts, Alfonso crafts unique wines that reflect the terroir of the Veneto.

The food:  Bigoli de Bassano

The local tourist site tells me that: BIGOLI DE BASSAN are a particular type of spaghetti with a very dark color, with a wider section and greater consistency, obtained with a revolutionary production technique and with a wise dosage of flour.

This recipe is then used for other products, in particular for PENE DE ALPIN DE BASSAN (pennine rigate) and for SUBIOTI DE BASSAN (maccheroncini rigati). To this triad are added the TAJADELE DE BASSAN, the LASAGNE DE BASSAN and the CANNELLONI DE BASSAN.
There is a company that has greatly contributed to making these Bigoli famous and it is BORELLA & C Srl which was founded in 1935 with the name PASTIFICIO BASSANESE. Thanks to the use of high quality ingredients in a short time the
Bassanese Pastificio has achieved a great success of notoriety.
The innate taste for good and genuine things, the lively curiosity to
dust off the ancient recipes of the local housewives and the continuous
search for product improvement lead to the famous
BIGOLI DE BASSAN.

Giro 2024 Stage 19: Mortegliano to Sappada

Where are we? In Friuli

Mortegliano: The regional tourist site tells me that The name Mortegliano, a large agricultural centre in the low plain of Friuli, may derive from the name of a Roman farmer, Mortilio, who owned some properties in the area.

The town can boast Italy's highest bell tower: 113.2 metres.
The municipality of Mortegliano comprises the hamlets of Lavariano and Chiasiellis as well.
The neo-Gothic Cathedral is worth a visit: it features a spectacular wooden altar, considered the best example of Renaissance wooden sculpture in Friuli, by carver and painter Giovanni Martini from Udine. The other churches present in the territory are noteworthy too.

Giro Specialties: Agriculture is the main activity in this land and is dominated by maize (blave), wheat and barley. This is followed by other arable crops, apples, kiwis, fruit trees and plants, and vegetables. Vines are also present. Farmers make an excellent polenta flour from top-quality maize, appreciated for its aroma, colour, flavour and consistency. From there comes the so-called “Blave di Mortean“, a well-established patented project and brand name. Two dairy-cheese factories collect and process milk from the many local farms on a daily basis to produce Montasio cheese, ricotta, stracchino and mozzarella.

Sappada: The local tourist site tells me that: Surrounded by the Dolomites, Sappada (Plodn in the local dialect) is a well-known winter and summer tourist destination. Its origin is from the early medieval period and is attributed to the Patriarch of Aquileia who is supposed to have invited  a group of families from Bavaria to live in this area, then uninhabited. An ancient German dialect is spoken in Sappada even to this day.
Apart from its landscape beauty, Sappada also boasts a particular rural architecture of wooden houses built using the ancient blockbau technique. The best-known of all the old traditions is the Plodar Vosenòcht, the carnival of Sappada, in which people from the entire countryside are involved for three Sundays, and where the typical mask of Rollate plays the leading role.

Giro specialties: Sappada’s gastronomic offerings are a tribute to excellence: gourmet restaurants (including a Michelin-starred one), pizzerias, agritourisms and mountain lodges all offer typical mountain cuisine of the highest quality. Sappada’s globally recognised Local Cusine represents a very important appeal for tourists visiting our town. Many traditional local dishes are proposed and interpreted by the talent of our chefs.

The stage: Hello breakaway. Hello Julina Alaphilippe. With the gc group more than 10 minutes behind, it was clear that the winner would come from the break group.   15 kilometers to go and Vendrame had a minute on a chasing group of 6.

His gap would stay stable as they rode closer and closer.

Indeed, he would hold on. 

The wine:  Weingut Carlotto Lagrein

From 2018 

From the importer:
Feruccio Carlotto and his daughter Michela farm a tiny estate of several hectares in the Alto-Adige town of Ora, south of Bolzano. The special of this village is Lagrein, a red grape that is native to the region, and these folks have it down. They chose to produce only one Lagrein Riserva that is aged in large oak casks. The vines are planted in a complex mélange of soil types dominated by igneous porphyry rock and complemented by limestone subsoil and a wide range of alluvial sediments and stones deposited here over millennia. You have never tasted Lagrein with this much finesse. It is a powerhouse of a wine with a very light touch—inky black, loaded with fruit, with a distinctive personality, and silky tannins. They also make a small amount of Pinot Nero that is made in a very fine, elegant style, with a feathery touch. It is from one of the best terroirs in the Alto Adige for Pinot Nero, the cru of Mazzon.

The food: Slow Food has a suggestion:

Saurnschotte is one of the symbols of the gastronomic culture of Sappada, a German-speaking area nestled in the Dolomites. The village lies at the beginning of the Piave valley, close to the border with the Veneto region.
In the local language saurnschotte means “sour ricotta”. Its appearance is similar to ricotta: it is a fresh product therefore it doesn’t really have a crust or a really characteristic shape, it is white and has persistent notes of an aromatic herb.
But saurnschotte, despite its name and appearance, is not a ricotta, it is in effect a fresh cheese, obtained from an acidic coagulation. The ingredients are raw whole cow’s milk, fresh or dried tarragon, salt and pepper.
The mountain tarragon, known as “Perschtroum”, in the local language, grows spontaneously on the edge of the Sappada pastures and woods. It is harvested during the summer season and preserved in salt so that it can be used throughout the year. The people of Sappada believe that it has unique characteristics, which make it essential and not replaceable with regular tarragon, which makes collecting it extremely important.
Acid coagulation takes a long time, even a few hours, due to the slow acidification of the milk, triggered by the addition of autoproduced starter cultures. Lactose transforms into lactic acid, the increase in acidity causes the caseins to denature and clumps to form. The increase in temperature, within certain limits, favours the acidification process, whereby the milk inside the pot is kept at a temperature of about 37°C.
Once the coagulation process is complete, the curd is left to drain in cotton sheets for 24 hours and then mixed with tarragon, salt and pepper. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to about 15 days.
Saurnschotte is the main ingredient of some typical recipes from Sappada, such as schottedunkate which is made by mixing saurnschotte together with polenta. The mixture is then topped with sizzling melted butter. It is also used as a filling for ravioli or simply spread on bread.

Giro 2024 Stage 18: Fiera di Primiero to Padova

Where are we? Trentino and the Veneto

Fiera di Primiero:  From the Giro: The small village of Fiera di Primiero lies at the foot of the Pale di San Martino, the largest massif of the Dolomites, at the confluence of the Cismon and Canali rivers, in the eastern part of Trentino. Famous in the past for the wealth of its mines, it became the trade and administrative centre of the entire valley in the 15th century. Today it is a beautiful mountain village, located at an altitude of 730 metres.

Giro specialties: Tosela: made every morning from freshly milked milk, it is usually served with polenta and sausage (luganega). 

Botiro di Malga cheese from Primiero: in the local dialect “botiro” means butter and, during the Serenissima period, the best butter sold in Venice came from the alpine pastures of Primiero. The Botiro di malga has an intense colour ranging from straw yellow to gold; its aroma is moderately aromatic, with quite lively floral and herbaceous notes. It has a soft consistency and is easily spreadable. 

Carne Fumada di Siror: smoked beef to be eaten raw.

Padova/Padua: Padua is located east in the Po Valley, about 10 km north of the Euganean Hills and about 20 km west of the Venice Lagoon and is crossed by the Brenta and Bacchiglione rivers. It is known as the city of Saint Anthony. Whether you visit it from the water, stroll through the historic centre or take the time to discover its green surroundings by bicycle, Padua will definitely never let you down.

Giro specialties: None listed

The stage:  A sprint stage? Maybe?

There would be a very long break, but they did not get a lot of rope. They would also be left with a small gap for many kilometers.

Ten to go and they were finally reeled in.

Merlier with the sprint win. 

The wine: From 2013

Monteforche Vigneto Carantina 2010, $24.99

From 67 Wine:
Winemaker Alfonso Soranzo manages a small property with his father in the Colli Eugani. Soranzo, a horn player, decided to leave music five years ago to devote – body and soul - to viticulture. Helped by his father in the vineyards, he personally helms all the cellar operations. The family’s tiny estate is on one of the best plots of Colli Euganei, southwest of Padova. Colli Euganei, while certainly not a well-known appellation in the Veneto, is one of the best areas to grow vines in Italy. Volcanic soils with marl and limestone, good aeration, mild constant winds and average rains make it one of the best growing areas in the Veneto. Particularly, the Vo area (western slopes of mount Venda) is the cooler and fresher of the whole appellation, giving finesse and balance. Using biodynamic practices and ambient yeasts, Alfonso crafts unique wines that reflect the terroir of the Veneto.

The food:  Asiago

From the Asiago Consortium:
In the Asiago Plateau, from which Asiago cheese takes its name, a tasty cheese has been produced ever since the year 1000. Initially sheep’s milk was used, but from the 1500s, with the gradual increase of cattle farming on the plateau, cow’s milk became the raw material used. The cheese making technique developed, and, during the early seventeenth century, production expanded into the neighbouring areas of the Asiago Plateau: the foothills, the surrounding plains and the nearby Alpine huts of Trentino. The oldest version of Asiago, most faithful to the traditions of the plateau’s cheese makers and with the fullest, most intense flavour, is the Seasoned cheese. In the early twentieth century, Fresh Asiago was born from the traditions of the DOP region combined with innovative cheese making technology. The flavour of this cheese, sweet and mild, has led to its international popularity.

Giro 2024 Stage 17 Selva di Val Gardena to Passo Brocon

Where are we?  South Tyrol and Trentino

Selva di Val: The Dolomites!

Giro Specialties: The gastronomic culture of the region is another highlight, and visitors can enjoy authentic South Tyrolean dishes in cosy mountain huts and typical restaurants. The local cuisine offers a delicious combination of intense flavours, with authentic cheese dishes, quality meats and local products. Some of the most characteristic dishes include barley soup ‘Panicia’, potato sheets with sauerkraut ‘Grosti da patac y craut’, mosa ‘Jufa‘, D-shaped spinach cakes ‘Crafuncins da ula vërda‘, fruit bread ‘Fuiacia’ and many others.

Passo Brocon: The Giro tells me that The Brocon Pass is a bridge between the Tesino plateau and the Vanoi valley. During the summer season, the Brocon Pass is a popular tourist destination, especially for its range of excursions and walks with splendid views. The winter season is all about skiing, with a vast choice of fun activities on the snow, from downhill skiing to snowboarding, from cross-country skiing to mountaineering as well as more family-oriented forms of entertainment. From a historical point of view, the pass was an important strategic point during the two world wars due to its location. Signs of the conflicts, such as underground bunkers and trenches dug by the Austrian militia, are still visible today.

Giro specialties: Typical and genuine products can be tasted in the restaurants of the Valsugana del Tesino, discovering the ancient flavours of the Lagorai and enjoying products and dishes that have contributed to writing the history of these valleys.

Le Verde: local cuisine is closely linked to the territory and characterised by simple dishes using the products of the land, as is the case for all Trentino cuisine. Among the vegetables, an important food resource was once potatoes, beans, turnips and cabbage; the latter, thanks to fermentation processes inside wooden tubs, were preserved both in the form of sauerkraut and “green”. But unlike the better-known sauerkraut, found throughout the Alps and in much of the Germanic world, “le verde” can only be found in the Tesino basin, it is still particularly appreciated and proposed according to ancient recipes, such as ‘Smacafame’, or combined with tasty meat cuts.

Malga cheese: the alpine dairymen and shepherds who spend the summer months in the mountains to graze their cows and produce cheese, ricotta and butter are the clearest symbol of the ancient rhythms and deep-rooted traditions of the Lagorai. Malga cheese is capable of bringing back to the palate all the fragrances of high-altitude pastures. Malga cheese differs from mass-produced cheese because it cannot be separated from the territory: the milk from grazing cows has unique organoleptic characteristics that make it absolutely unmistakable.

The small fruits of Tesino: strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and blueberries, as well as white and red currants. So many fruits are cultivated by the young entrepreneurs of local farms, offering the possibility of savouring the true taste of the mountain.

The stage: A stage for the break? Another day for Pogacar? It would be hard to bet against him.

There would be a break, there would be people falling off and eventually, one rider solo.

🏁 32 KM

1️⃣ 🚴‍♂️ < 1’40" < 🚴‍♂️🚴‍♂️🚴‍♂️💗🚗

🇩🇪 Georg Steinhauser (EFE)
- 20"
🇪🇷 @AmanuelAmanyel3 (LTK)#GirodItalia pic.twitter.com/egIZcvgtPA

— Giro d'Italia (@giroditalia) May 22, 2024

Under 10 kms to go and his gap was about 40 seconds. The main peloton was 2:18 back. His gap would continue to grow.

Once again riding away from his rivals, Pogacar. But with only two kms to go, ot seemed like Steinhauser would be safe.

And he would make it. Great ride by him today to take a stage win during his first grand tour. 

The wine: From 2013

Kuenhof Kaiton Riesling 2011

From importer Oliver McCrum Wines:

Kuenhof, owned by Peter and Brigitte Pliger, is one of the best white wine estates in Italy. Their steep, stony vineyards are in the part of the South Tyrol called the Val d'Isarco (or Eisacktal), not far from the border with Austria. They grow Sylvaner, Veltliner and Riesling organically, and their wines show an almost electric mineral character. If the duty of a great wine is to be distinctive, these wines stand out like beacons -- great terroir, careful grape-growing, brilliant winemaking, and extraordinary wines.

Most of the winegrowing in the area known as the Alto Adige (also known as ‘Südtirol’ in the German spoken by the locals) is along the Strada di Vino, just south of Bolzano. The Eisacktal is a separate, very small appellation about half an hour north-east of Bolzano, on the way to the Brenner Pass and Austria. The climate is different here, Continental rather than the Mediterranean found around Bolzano, most of the vineyards are at high altitude (in the case of Kuenhof, between 1,800 and 2,300 feet above sea level), and the soils at Kuenhof are very distinctive, containing schist, quartz phyllite, lots of stones, and morainic layers of crushed rock. The vineyards are terraced, exposed to the south-east, and quite steep. The most recent plantings are in an area that Peter identified as being famous for grape-growing a century ago, but that had fallen into disuse, perhaps because the monetary investment (to repair terraces) and time was too great. Density is high, at 8,000 plants per hectare.

'Kuenhof' is a farmhouse that dates from the 12th century. Just south of the town of Brixen/Bressanone, it was for centuries owned by the Bishop of Bressanone, and then for the last 200 years it has been in the family of the current owners.

I said: Screw cap! I don't open many of those during the Giro. The grape that I tend to miss the most during this project is Riesling. Not that there are not Italian Rieslings, but many of them are just not that satisfying. Very pale straw in color. Some petrol, citrus and green on the nose. Lots of minerals and some flowers as well. Held up and was very nice on day two.

The food: avarone Vezzena cheese

From Slowfood: This cow’s milk cheese is made with milk from two milkings, one of which is skimmed for cream. The technique is the same as for other medium-fat Alpine cheeses, but Vezzena is made unique by the wild herbs of the Lavarone plateau and a long aging. Even when very aged, it still preserves an exceptional buttery smoothness, releasing aromas that change depending on exactly when the cows were pastured. After a year or a year and a half, the eyes disappear and the very yellow paste becomes slightly grainy. The fragrance becomes more complex and herbaceous, spiced notes fill the mouth. It takes time for Vezzena to reach its full potential and for it to be obvious why it is one of the jewels of Trentino cheesemaking and why Emperor Franz Joseph wanted it on his table every day.
I say: Very firm, reminds me of gruyere

Giro 2024 Stage 16 Livigno to Santa Cristina Valgardena

Where are we? Lombardy and South Tyrol

Livigno:  The Giro says: A valley more than 22 km long at an altitude of 1,816 metres: here lies Livigno (whose name probably derives from the late Latin word labineus, namely “place subject to avalanches”): a true mountain paradise, both in summer and winter, protected by the Italian Alps. A destination chosen by Italians and international tourists to spend their holidays in pursuit of fun, sport, relaxation and good food.

Giro Specialties: The so-called Little Tibet offers a wide selection of bars and restaurants throughout the streets of the pedestrianised centre, as well as alpine huts and inns located in the surrounding valley. The fil rouge of Livigno’s food and wine offer is the quality of the products and the genuineness of the raw materials, meticulously chosen by the chefs to create unique dishes telling the story and traditions of Livigno.

Santa Cristina Valgardena: A place to visit! Dolomites UNESCO Panoramic terrace Mastlé – S. Cristina Val Gardena: in 2009, the Dolomites were recognised as a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site due to their scenic beauty and extraordinary geological and geomorphological importance. The Dolomites and the Puez-Odle Nature Park were granted the highest accolade for a natural site. A panoramic balcony has been created in the Puez-Odle Nature Park, in the vicinity of the Col Raiser cable car station at 2200 metres.

Giro Specialties: None listed

The stage: The word of the day is weather. And it has changed the stage dramatically.

Per the organizers: The stage will have its usual start and procedures in Livigno. From there, a parade will start towards the Tunnel Munt Raschera. Once there, the riders will stop and change before the Swiss border. The actual start will take place in Spondigna.

The weather would remain an issue, with wet and cold roads throughout the stage.

At one point we even saw Alaphilippe reunite with bis breakaway companion of earlier in the race, Maestri. 

With 27 kilometers to go, Alaphilppe had 1:45 over the peloton, with chasers in between.

Behind, there were a lot of riders attempting to jump from the peloton.

Under 19 kilometers to go and Alaphilippe had a minute. 

Fifteen to go and that gap was down to 40 seconds.

Just under 7 kilometers to go and he had 15 seconds on the closest chasers and 46 seconds on the peloton. Sadly, he would be caught by the chasers with 5 kms to go.

The pink jersey group was only 25 seconds back. 

Costiou, Scaroni, and Pellizzari would drop Alaphilippe. 

Eventually, as if inevitable, Pogacar would go. 

I don't want to say that this is boring, but another win for him was not what I hoped to see on the day. 

The wine: From 2016

Nusserhoff Lagrein 
Eric Asimov in the New York Times has things to say: "FEW things are simple in northeastern Italy, least of all lagrein, a red grape that can produce fresh, aromatic, highly seductive wines. Why, just last week, I asked a linguistically minded friend who is fluent in Italian for the proper pronunciation of lagrein. Here is his response, or part of it:

“Lagrein is a tough one,” he said, “in part because it’s pronounced using a Germanic, as opposed to an Italianate vowel system.” He went on to offer his preference, lah-GRAH’EEN, but allowed that lah-GRINE and lah-GREYE’NE (where greye rhymes with eye) were also acceptable. Well, linguists are nothing if not perfectionists. But even allowing for such hairsplitting, lagrein comes with ample grounds for confusion. It is grown primarily in Alto Adige, a region so far to the north in Alpine Italy that it practically touches Austria and Switzerland. There, the culture is more Tyrolean than Italian, and the first language is often German. Many wines from the region are labeled in both Italian and in German. Even the name of the region, Alto Adige, does not speak for itself; it is generally rendered bilingually with its German counterpart, Südtirol (South Tyrol, using the Germanic vowel system, of course)."
I say: A very happy wine for me. Lagrein with some age on it. Fuller and earthier than some some lagrein, but with enough acid to balance it out. Black cherry. Hint of an aged balsamic. Still vibrant on day three.

The food: Loacker “Rose of the Dolomites”  

How could I resist? I went with the dark chocolate version. Alfons Loacker started in his little patisserie in Bozen in 1925. All products are produced and processed in Auna di Sotto/Unterinn (South Tyrol/Italy) and Heinfels (East Tyrol/Austria), according to traditional family recipes.

Giro 2024 Stage 15: Manerba del Garda to Livigno

Where are we? Spending more time in Lombardy

Manerba del Garda: From the Giro: Manerba del Garda is located in the province of Brescia, on the Lombard shore of Lake Garda, and is immersed in the green morainic hills of the Valtenesi. The interior offers gorgeous agricultural estates where the memorable Garda olive oil and D.O.C. (literally Controlled Designation of Origin) wines are produced, as well as horse riding activities, shady trattorias with simple Mediterranean cuisine and beautiful golf courses.

Giro specialties: Typical dishes include Tagliolini al Coregone, Pike with polenta, Perch fillets, olive oil and the ever-present Spiedo Bresciano, while wines include Rosa Valtenesi and Rosso Valtenesi.

Livogno:  The Giro says: A valley more than 22 km long at an altitude of 1,816 metres: here lies Livigno (whose name probably derives from the late Latin word labineus, namely “place subject to avalanches”): a true mountain paradise, both in summer and winter, protected by the Italian Alps. A destination chosen by Italians and international tourists to spend their holidays in pursuit of fun, sport, relaxation and good food.

Giro specialties: The so-called Little Tibet offers a wide selection of bars and restaurants throughout the streets of the pedestrianised centre, as well as alpine huts and inns located in the surrounding valley. The fil rouge of Livigno’s food and wine offer is the quality of the products and the genuineness of the raw materials, meticulously chosen by the chefs to create unique dishes telling the story and traditions of Livigno.

The stage: What may be the hardest day of this year's Giro, otherwise known as the Queen Stage. You have to appreciate the sub head on Cycling News: 

Pogačar looks to dominate 222km mountain stage with over 5000m elevation gain and high-altitude finish in store.

Along they went, with a lead group, followed by a large chasing group and eventually, the peloton. 

🏁 78 KM

4️⃣ 🚴‍♂️ < 30" < 5️⃣0️⃣ 🚴‍♂️💙 < 5'02" < 🚴‍♂️🚴‍♂️🚴‍♂️💗🚗

We've started the Passo del Mortirolo!

🇦🇹 @TobiasBayer_
🇬🇧 @Harrison_Wood00
🇮🇹 Christian Scaroni
🇮🇹 Giulio Pellizzari#GirodItalia pic.twitter.com/psWiI1DpUY

— Giro d'Italia (@giroditalia) May 19, 2024

The composition of the groups at the front would change, as the peloton behind would get smaller.  The first five over the top were:

1. Christian Scaroni (ITA) Astana Qazaqstan 40pts
2. Giulio Pellizzari (ITA) VF Group-Bardiani CSF-Faizane 18pts
3. Simon Geschke (GER) Cofidis 12pts
4. Michael Storer (AUS) Tudor 9pts
5. Davide PIganzoli (ITA) Polti-Kometa 6pts

Around 52 kilometers to go and the remains of the chasing group would catch the leaders, creating a group of 17. The peloton was 4 plus minutes back.

Thirty kilometers to go and their gap was still over 3 minutes.

That lead group would fal apart, with Steinhauser in the lead, with chasers. 

Behind, the GC group has gotten rather small. 

Just under 14 kilometers to go and there went Pogacar, with a gap very quickly. Ahead, Quintana passed Steinhauser, but it certainly looked like the Pogacar express would soon catch him.

Three kilometers to go and the gap to Quintana was at 25 seconds. Sure enough, there he went, taking the stage win and gaining a lot of time over the other gc riders. 

The wine: From 2015

Azienda A. San Giovanni Il Chiaretto Valtenesi Rose 2014 
From FranklyWines $17.99

From the producer: A special rosé native to this area of Lake Garda. A beautiful coral pink in colour , pleasantly fruity with a light body. Created from four grape varieties: Groppello, Marzemino, Barbera and Sangiovese. The name derives itself from the once only slight vinfication and brief contact with the grape skins at the midnight hour of the first night. Perfect for warm summer evenings on its own, but also provides an excellent accompaniment to white meats/fish, seafood, pasta and rice dishes. Must be drunk within three years of the vintage. The recommended serving temperature is 12°C.
Our vineyards, situated in the proximity of the San Giovanni farmhouse and the winery, in Raffa di Puegnago, consist of about 15 hectares of loose and permeable land, rich in coarse soil of glacial origin. The Cap del Priù and the Villa Romana vineyard were among the first crus, dating back to the mid-seventies and consisting primarily of Groppello and Marzemino grapes. A further 12 hectares are situated just a few kilometres to the south, in Picedo di Polpenazze, planted in the early nineties with the best Groppello clones in the Arzane cru, along with other local varieties and two hectares of Riesling.
I say: Crisp and tart strawberries and cherries.  This ia a buy a case and drink all summer kind of rosé.

The food: Panna Cotta

Panna cotta is one of those so simple desserts that I should make more often. Dissolve gelatin in water and then combine that mixture with warm cream with vanilla and sugar. You can add other flavors, but the simple version is my favorite. For the Giro, we served it with raspberries

Giro 2024: Stage 14: Castiglione della Stiviere to Desenzano del Garda

Where are we? Lombardy!

Castiglione della Stiviere: The Giro tells me: Castiglione delle Stiviere, home of San Luigi Gonzaga and the Red Cross, is a town immersed in the green scenery of the Morainic Hills, and the beating heart of a fascinating territory where nature, history and modernity co-exist in vibrant harmony.

Giro Specialties: None listed

Desenzano del Garda: 
Giro specialties: Desenzano’s dining options offer an all-round experience, starting with the numerous “agriturismi” (countryside rustic restaurants which usually serve food that was prepared from raw materials produced on the farm or from other local merchants) scattered throughout the hinterland offering good dishes of the highest quality.

The main ingredient of Garda Lake cuisine is obviously its fish. Here, in a highly fishy environment, visitors can enjoy trout, eel, whitefish, pike, perch, the rare carp and, from early summer, sardines and bleak. The local restaurants know how to enhance the taste and flavour of these products.

Another pearl of the Desenzano and Garda area is the PDO extra virgin olive oil, characterised by a very low degree of acidity, which makes it quite digestible and therefore much sought after. The many historical oil mills work hard to ensure quality of production and, over the years, they have established themselves as a Garda landmark. 

How could we fail to mention Grana Padano, which has its headquarters in Desenzano and has now consolidated its position as an international leader in the production and distribution of its cheese. Suitable for any type of meal, Grana Padano is an Italian excellence and pride, to be savoured at an aperitif with friends, as a snack or at the lunch or dinner table.

The stage: Time for another time trial. Would it be Pogacar, Ganna or a surprise?

Indeed, Ganna would be in the hot seat for a long time at 35:02.

And he would stay in that seat all the way to the end. Though it would be close, his time would hold. 

The wine: From 2022

 ArPePe Rosso di Valtellina

from Dig. 

The importer tells me: 

• 100% Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo)
• 50-100-year-old vines
• Sourced from lower slopes of Sassella and Grumello vineyards at 350-400 meters
• South/east exposure.  110-day maceration on the skins
• Aged 6-12 mo. in 50 -hectoliter untoasted casks
• 4,000 cases produced annually
• First vintage 2003

The food: Grana Padano Let's have some cheese! 

Aged for a minimum of 9 months, the origin of Grana Padano dates back to the Cistercian monks of the Chiaravalle Abbey. From the polders of northern Italy, the cheese is produced with milk from free-range cows. 

Giro 2024: Stage 13: Riccione to Cento

Where are we?: In Emilia Romagna.

Riccione: Situated on the Adriatic Riviera of Romagna, Riccione is one of the most famous seaside resorts on the Adriatic. A very rich show schedule with amazing events makes Riccione the undisputed destination for thousands of people with different targets, but everyone looking for originality and tips to get quality products. Performances, shows and festivals, concerts, cinema and theatre,  the big sports events, the trendy shopping together with theme parks, clubs on the beach and on the hills, hang around with guests every month of the year.
Giro Specialties: None listed

Cento: The Giro tells me that: Cento is synonymous with Carnival, one of the most famous and oldest in Europe! This festival was already well-known at the beginning of the 17th century, when the artist known as Guercino painted scenes of the costume party held in the town square. Radical changes have taken place since then, but Carnival remains an unmissable event that has been transformed over time to keep the enthusiasm alive.

Giro specialties: Salama da sugo di Buonacompra IGP: Legend attributes an important role in reconstructing the product’s origins to Lucrezia Borgia, who married Alfonso d’Este in the early 1500s. The first written records of products very similar to ‘Salama da sugo’ date back to the Renaissance period.

The stage: The flattest of flat. The last chance for the sprinters for a long time. 

Cue doomed break and as routine a day as we find on the Giro, except for a bit of fun crosswind action. 

Milan! Three for the race for him. He made that look easy.

The wine: From 2019

La Stoppa Ageno
Back to this one: From the importer: La Stoppa is a 50 hectare property located in North-West Emilia-Romagna. Founded in the late 19th century by a wealthy lawyer named Gian-Marco Ageno, the estate is currently run by Elena Pantaleoni and head vignaiolo Giulio Armani. 32 hectares of vines are planted in Barbera and Bornada for red, as well as a small amount of Malvasia Candia, Ortrugo and Trebianno for whites.

I say: Orange wine alert. 30 days of skin maceration with natural yeasts creates a deep "orange" color.

The food:  Piadina from Academia Barilla

For the dough

• 1 pound all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 3 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup water

For filling

• Prosciutto di Parma
• Squacquerone, or another fresh, soft cheese (such as stracchino cheese or cottage cheese)
• arugula

Preparation:

Piadina is traditionally made with pork fat. Our piadina is a lighter version made with extra-virgin olive oil.
Combine flour, salt, and baking powder in a bowl, then mix in oil and water.
Knead dough for about 10 minutes until smooth in consistency.
Cover dough in plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for an hour.
Note: If the dough is being prepared in advance, you can keep the prepared dough in the refrigerator.
Lightly flour the countertop and roll out the dough with a rolling pin until very thin, around a tenth of an inch.
Cut out 7-12 inch circles and poke holes in it with a fork.
Cook in a non-stick pan over medium heat without added fat for 1-2 minutes each side.
Serve warm, either alone or as part of a sandwich.
Piadinas are usually stuffed with salted and savoury ingredients. The most famous in Italy is with Prosciutto di Parma and squacquerone, a fresh, soft cheese. If unavailable, squacquerone can be replaced with stracchino cheese or even cottage cheese. The cheese and prosciutto are placed on the piadina with greens which is then folded up and served.
Buon appetito!

Giro 2024 Stage 12: Martinsicuro to Fano

Where are we? In Abruzzo and the Marche.

Martinsicuro: Italia.it tells me that The last town in Abruzzo, separated from Marche by the Tronto river, Martinsicuro is located in the Val Vibrata area and has preserved part of its historical heritage over time. The early settlement developed around the Tower of Charles V, the watchtower erected at the behest of King Charles V in the mid-16th century as a defence against Saracen raids. The tower currently houses the Antiquarium of Castrum Truentinum, which preserves artefacts, from prehistoric times to the Longobard period, from excavations in the Colle Marzio area. The Sacred Heart of the Gesu parish church, dating from the 20th century, has a Latin cross plan and an elegant portico. Opposite the church is \'Villa Bernabei\', a mid-19th century mansion. Also known as the \'First Beach of Abruzzo\' and surrounded by gentle green hills that host small villages rich in history and charm, Martinsicuro attracts visitors not only for its beautiful coastline but also thanks to its historical, architectural and natural heritage. In summer, the waterfront area offers various entertainment opportunities: if during the day they are a place to relax, in the evening they host clubs that organise atmospheric aperitifs on the beach, but also beach bars and lounge bars that organise evenings with music and DJ sets.

Giro specialties: None listed.

Fano: Italia.it tells me that The ancient Fanum Fortunae, located at the end of the Via Flaminia, is still alive in the city walls and, above all, in the entrance gate: the Arch of Augustus. Today, Fano is a seaside town where the sea is the element that, perhaps more than any other, has left its mark on local customs and traditions. In particular, the city's vibe is closely linked to the sea: among the typical dishes of a Fano table is 'Brodetto alla fanese (fish soup), the rustic and not to be forgotten typical Fano drink made of coffee, rum, aniseed and brandy called 'Moretta', which was drunk by sailors and fishermen in the harbour to warm themselves before setting sail with their boats. Fano, however, is also famous for its Carnival, the oldest and most charming in Italy: allegorical floats that cross the centre and reach heights of more than 15 metres, masks, costumes and parades transform the city every year into a widespread celebration that involves inhabitants and visitors alike with the typical throwing of sweets. Also among the must-see events are: Passages Festival the non-fiction and book festival, theBrodetto Fest, a festival of international resonance celebrating Fano's traditional dish, Fano Jazz by the Sea, a whole week dedicated to Jazz concerts with guests and artists from all over the world and Fano dei Cesari, a Roman historical re-enactment involving the entire historic centre and its inhabitants through the long parade through the city streets and the famous chariot race.

Giro specialties: None listed

The stage: This stage had breakaway all over it. Indeed we would have a very large break. Surging out of it, Julian Alaphilippe!  He had company for quite a while, but eventually went out solo.

Just a joy to see. 

The wine: From 2014

 Fontezoppa Falcotto 2008
 $26 from Biondivino

From the producer: The concentration of loose soil, with stones and sandstone make this wine a full bodied dry wine with mineral and sulphur notes on the nose, and moderately tannin flavour. Hints of red mulberries, blackcurrants, wild cherries and smoky notes. Dry on the palate.

DOC SERRAPETRONA
Year of Vintage 2008
Colour RED
Grapes VERNACCIA NERA 100%
Alcohol Content 13%
Soil SANDSTONE, LIMEY
Altitude 450
Age of Vineyards 10
Aspects SOUTH
Training System GUYOT
Number of Plants per Hectare 8900
Yield per Hectare in Quintals 40
Wine Making STEEL AND FRENCH OAK
Ageing in STEEL for 3 months, in CASKS for 12 months
Not filtered or fined

I say: Today's grape: Vernaccia Nera. Google tells me that "Vernaccia' comes from the Latin for vernacular. Farmers applied the name to random indigenous grapes of different regions, so now there are several well known Vernaccia that are completely unrelated. So, essentially: local grape.  

The food:Virtu

The traditional soup, recipe from Academia Barilla

Ingredients:

1 ½ lb legumes , dried
salt
3 ½ lb legumes , fresh
spinach
carrot
celery
swiss chard
fennel
endive
marjoram
mint
lard
⅝ lb fresh pasta
1 ½ lb pasta , dry
parsley
onion
clove
pepper
nutmeg
tomato sauce
garlic
ground pork
ham bone

Preparation: Leave the dry pulses to soften in cold water for at least one day. Then cook them in lightly salted water until they are half-cooked. Clean all the vegetables (except for the onion, garlic and parsley), cook in salted water, drain and put aside. In a second receptacle, boil together the pork meats (which should be salted and peppered). When cooked, bone them, cut into small pieces, and put them back into the stock. Add the cooked pulses and some marjoram and wild mint leaves. Prepare a chopped mixture of lard and parsley and brown in a pan with the tomato sauce, onion and garlic well-chopped. Stir the sauté, and add to the stock with the boiled vegetables. When almost cooked, adjust the salt, put in the pasta (beginning with the dry varieties and the larger formats) and the fresh pulses and finish off the cooking. This minestrone, very rich and extremely tasty, may be consumed hot or cold. It is prepared on the occasion of the 1st of May (May Day).