Thursday, May 16, 2024

Giro 2024 Stage 12: Martinsicuro to Fano


Where are we? In Abruzzo and the Marche.

Martinsicuro: Italia.it tells me that The last town in Abruzzo, separated from Marche by the Tronto river, Martinsicuro is located in the Val Vibrata area and has preserved part of its historical heritage over time. The early settlement developed around the Tower of Charles V, the watchtower erected at the behest of King Charles V in the mid-16th century as a defence against Saracen raids. The tower currently houses the Antiquarium of Castrum Truentinum, which preserves artefacts, from prehistoric times to the Longobard period, from excavations in the Colle Marzio area. The Sacred Heart of the Gesu parish church, dating from the 20th century, has a Latin cross plan and an elegant portico. Opposite the church is \'Villa Bernabei\', a mid-19th century mansion. Also known as the \'First Beach of Abruzzo\' and surrounded by gentle green hills that host small villages rich in history and charm, Martinsicuro attracts visitors not only for its beautiful coastline but also thanks to its historical, architectural and natural heritage. In summer, the waterfront area offers various entertainment opportunities: if during the day they are a place to relax, in the evening they host clubs that organise atmospheric aperitifs on the beach, but also beach bars and lounge bars that organise evenings with music and DJ sets.

Giro specialties: None listed.

Fano: Italia.it tells me that 
The ancient Fanum Fortunae, located at the end of the Via Flaminia, is still alive in the city walls and, above all, in the entrance gate: the Arch of Augustus. Today, Fano is a seaside town where the sea is the element that, perhaps more than any other, has left its mark on local customs and traditions. In particular, the city's vibe is closely linked to the sea: among the typical dishes of a Fano table is 'Brodetto alla fanese (fish soup), the rustic and not to be forgotten typical Fano drink made of coffee, rum, aniseed and brandy called 'Moretta', which was drunk by sailors and fishermen in the harbour to warm themselves before setting sail with their boats. Fano, however, is also famous for its Carnival, the oldest and most charming in Italy: allegorical floats that cross the centre and reach heights of more than 15 metres, masks, costumes and parades transform the city every year into a widespread celebration that involves inhabitants and visitors alike with the typical throwing of sweets. Also among the must-see events are: Passages Festival the non-fiction and book festival, theBrodetto Fest, a festival of international resonance celebrating Fano's traditional dish, Fano Jazz by the Sea, a whole week dedicated to Jazz concerts with guests and artists from all over the world and Fano dei Cesari, a Roman historical re-enactment involving the entire historic centre and its inhabitants through the long parade through the city streets and the famous chariot race.

Giro specialties: None listed


The stage: This stage had breakaway all over it. Indeed we would have a very large break. Surging out of it, Julian Alaphilippe!  He had company for quite a while, but eventually went out solo.
Just a joy to see. 


The wine: From 2014
 Fontezoppa Falcotto 2008
 $26 from Biondivino

From the producerThe concentration of loose soil, with stones and sandstone make this wine a full bodied dry wine with mineral and sulphur notes on the nose, and moderately tannin flavour. Hints of red mulberries, blackcurrants, wild cherries and smoky notes. Dry on the palate.

DOC SERRAPETRONA
Year of Vintage 2008
Colour RED
Grapes VERNACCIA NERA 100%
Alcohol Content 13%
Soil SANDSTONE, LIMEY
Altitude 450
Age of Vineyards 10
Aspects SOUTH
Training System GUYOT
Number of Plants per Hectare 8900
Yield per Hectare in Quintals 40
Wine Making STEEL AND FRENCH OAK
Ageing in STEEL for 3 months, in CASKS for 12 months
Not filtered or fined

I say: 
Today's grape: Vernaccia Nera. Google tells me that "Vernaccia' comes from the Latin for vernacular. Farmers applied the name to random indigenous grapes of different regions, so now there are several well known Vernaccia that are completely unrelated. So, essentially: local grape.  


The food:
Virtu
The traditional soup, recipe from Academia Barilla

Ingredients:
1 ½ lb legumes , dried
salt
3 ½ lb legumes , fresh
spinach
carrot
celery
swiss chard
fennel
endive
marjoram
mint
lard
⅝ lb fresh pasta
1 ½ lb pasta , dry
parsley
onion
clove
pepper
nutmeg
tomato sauce
garlic
ground pork
ham bone

Preparation: Leave the dry pulses to soften in cold water for at least one day. Then cook them in lightly salted water until they are half-cooked. Clean all the vegetables (except for the onion, garlic and parsley), cook in salted water, drain and put aside. In a second receptacle, boil together the pork meats (which should be salted and peppered). When cooked, bone them, cut into small pieces, and put them back into the stock. Add the cooked pulses and some marjoram and wild mint leaves. Prepare a chopped mixture of lard and parsley and brown in a pan with the tomato sauce, onion and garlic well-chopped. Stir the sauté, and add to the stock with the boiled vegetables. When almost cooked, adjust the salt, put in the pasta (beginning with the dry varieties and the larger formats) and the fresh pulses and finish off the cooking. This minestrone, very rich and extremely tasty, may be consumed hot or cold. It is prepared on the occasion of the 1st of May (May Day).



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