Saturday, May 15, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 8: Foggia to Guardia Sanframondi


Where are we?
Another two region stage. This time: Puglia and Campania.

Foggia: The Giro tells me that “If God knew this land of Puglia, the apple of my eyes, he would have stopped to live here.” This is how Stupor Mundi, the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II once described the Apulian landscape.
Foggia, lying in the heart of the Apulia Tableland, not only has a vocation for agriculture, but is also a strategic place of innovation and experimentation. With its deeply rooted history, Foggia is the legacy left behind by the epic hero Diomede, the heir to the civilization attributable to the pre-Roman city of Arpi. Its territory is shared among wheat fields, vineyards, stretches of olive trees and lands of tertiary activities.

Guardia Sanframondi is a village of Lombard origin, perched on a hill whose summit is dominated by the Norman Castle built in the 12th century. The village mostly dating back to the 15th century has a medieval urban plan, with the houses joined to each other that climb along the hill spiralling around the ancient castle. Visitors cannot fail to appreciate this stone terrace suspended over the valley and cannot fail to be attracted by the precious architecture of the historical canter.

Giro Specialities:
Foggia: Thanks to the synergy with the Center of Agricultural Research and experimentation, the gastronomy of Foggia, from the cultivation of ancient grains to the enhancement of excellence in biodiversity, is a melting pot of tradition and innovation.
Its typical dishes remind one of the city’s origin as farmers, in a land of transhumance where agriculture meets pastoralism. Among the traditional dishes are “lagane e fave” (fafeijanghe and laghene), a type of pasta similar to tagliatelle, dressed with white bean puree; “pan cotto”, made with slices of bread from Monte Sant’Angelo boiled with vegetables on hand, potatoes and wild rocket, then seasoned with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and bay leaf; “acquasala”, a dish for the poor, made with stale bread softened in water, seasoned with salt, oil, oregano and tomatoes; “pettole”, deep fried bread dough, and “scagliozzi”, fried breaded polenta in a triangular shape; “cardoncelli”, an Easter dish made with tender stalks, lamb and eggs.
Foggian desserts include “taralli neri”, black taralli kneaded with mulled wine and spices, “cartellate”, the carnival fritters served with mulled wine and honey; the typical Christmas dessert “mandorle atterrate”, toasted almonds coated with sugar or chocolate; “pizza di ricotta”, a short-crust pastry made from sheep-milk ricotta for Easter; and “grano dei morti”, cooked grains topped with walnuts, chocolate and pomegranate.
The product of particular merit is the DOC oil for the Coratina, Rotondella, Ogliarola and Peranzana cultivars.

Guardia Sanframondi: The gastronomic tradition of Guardia Sanframondi is linked to its agricultural culture and preserves the taste and flavors of the local land and climate. The local dishes are simple expressions of a complex culture that follows the seasons and values the raw materials with the wisdom that, from generation to generation, reconnects the people to their most ancient traditions.
The excellent olive oil, the local cheese and the cured meats, the homemade pasta, the meat, the baked products, the legumes can always be found on the local tables. Local restaurants offer opportunities to explore this tradition but also to appreciate modern interpretations of the classic local dishes, with interesting ideas, amazing for their simplicity and the freshness of the local flavours.
Some of the traditional dishes are: “Laanella e Fagioli” (Homemade durum wheat tagliatelle in a bean soup); “Zuppa di Grano e Fagioli” (a soup made with wheat berries and beans); the handmade “Cavatelli” (gnocchi) served in a rich meat sauce; Italian Sausage with Broccoli Rabe; the “Frijtora” (pork meat with peppers and potatoes); “R’ Parruozz” (a small loaf of corn flour spiced with hot chilli peppers and flavoured with anchovies); “Cauzun” (Easter stuffed breads) stuffed with wheat or rice that celebrate the Easter festivities; the Christmas Zeppole (fritters), Stuffed Peppers and Stuffed Artichokes filled with a stuffing made with the local bread, cheese and eggs; the Pastiera with its own distinctive aroma, different than the Neapolitan version.

The stage: Another stage profile that raises the question: break or gc battle? Tomorrow will present major challenges, so it may tip to the break.  Clearly I was not the only one thinking that as it took a long time for the break to be established.
Also news of Caleb Ewan abandoning after a crash, but then maybe not because of a crash? Time would tell.
When the break was finally formed, it consisted of: Fernando Gaviria (UAE Team Emirates), Nelson Oliveira (Movistar), Kobe Goossens (Lotto Soudal), Alexis Gougeard (AG2R Citroën), Nikias Arndt (Team DSM), Victor Lafay (Cofidis), Giovanni Carboni (Bardiani-CSF-Faizane), Francesco Gavazzi (Eolo-Kometa), Victor Campenaerts (Qhubeka Assos).
Seventy kilometers to go and the gap was at seven minutes.
Fifty kilometers to and the gap was still at seven minutes.
Ahead, Gaviria launched from the break and crashed into a wall. He would get back up and continue, but would lose contact with the lead group. Surprisingly perhaps, he would eventually make it back to them.
Under 25 kilometers to go and the gap was just under seven minutes.
Numerous attack upfront eventually led to Gougeard getting a but of a gap, perhaps inspired by the fact that Sean Kelly had picked him on air. 
Ten kilometers to go and they were back together, just in time to climb.
Five kilometers to go and Campenaerts and Carboni were out front, with Gougeard next on the road.
Three kilometers to go and it was Carboni solo, but his gap was not large.
Catching and passing him, Lafay. He would hold on for the stage win.
Behind, no gc excitement.

Stage:


The wine
Cantina Pantun Rosato
One of these years I am going to drink an entirely pink Giro. This is not that year, but this wine was fun.
A bit from the importer: Cantina Pantun is a small family run winery in Mottola, Puglia. Husband Mimmo and wife Jutta started the Cantina in 2012 after having worked in the restaurant industry, studying literature, and being involved in social and political activism. Their desire to connect with the land brought them here to farm organically on the Pantun (a local name for "swamp"). Growing mostly Primitivo in rich clay soil, they farm and vinify with the least intervention as possible.

The food: I turned to Foggia Today for a recipe for “lagane e fave." 

Few ingredients , but essential to give the dish a delicious flavor. Therefore, preparation becomes fundamental.
For this dish they serve dried broad beans, lagane (pasta similar to fettuccine) not with egg, an onion, a little wine and extra virgin olive oil.

As a preliminary procedure , you need to put the beans in a pan of warm water and leave them to soak for twelve hours.

After that, the actual preparation can begin. In an earthenware pot filled with water, put the sliced ​​onion and broad beans. When the water boils, reduce the heat and let the beans cook. Put the salt, and in a separate pan cook the fettuccine, drain them when they are still al dente, and place them in the pot with the bean puree where they will complete their cooking. Add a drop of oil and serve.


Friday, May 14, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 7: Notaresco to Termoli

Where are we?
A two region day: Abruzzo and Molise!

Notaresco: A few miles from the Adriatic coast. Trivia: The sister city of Notaresco is Plonsk in Poland.

Termoli: Italy Magazine tells me that: Termoli is a town on the Adriatic coast of Italy, in the province of Campobasso, region of Molise. Once it was known only as a fishing port, but in the new millennium it is a favourite resort for Italian families. The old town has been well restored. It is a genuine walled community jutting out into the sea. Many of the houses have been re-built and painted in a range of pastel colours. In a central square there is the cathedral (12th-13th century), dedicated to St. Mary of the Purification. The Castle is the most pre-eminent structure in Termoli: erected by count Robert I of Loritello during the Norman domination (11th century), it was largely renovated during the rule of Frederick II (1240), after the damage created by an attack of the Venetian fleet. The Castle was part of a wider fortification system, including a wall surrounding the entire city, of which only a tower can still be seen. Termoli's resorts are renowned for the quality of their beaches and the relative purity of their waters. 

Giro specialties:
Notaresco: none listed
Termoli: One of the real reasons for visiting Termoli is undoubtedly its cuisine. Typically based around seafood, the town’s culinary traditions can be traced far back into the past and include dishes that have become specialities over the years, what were once the recipes used by poor families are now served in the countless restaurants around the town. These are some typical dishes: “Pappone”, a frugal dish made with the fish that remained unsold after the fishing boats returned to the port, the fishermen would share out what was left and take their portion home (this helping was called “scaffetta”). Pappone is made with boneless fish and bread which isn’t too fresh, the fish used can include skate, mantis shrimp, squid, cuttlefish, monkfish, sea snails, octopus, poor cod and whatever fish heads are available, all cooked up with tomato, garlic, onion and green peppers. Another typical dish is a classic fish soup, again with a wide variety of fish products cooked with the same ingredients, minus the bread. Then there is “U scescill”, another recipe that harks back to days gone by: oval balls made of eggs, cheese and stale bread, cooked in a tomato sauce. “Secce e pesille” (cuttlefish and peas) is a speciality, as is “Polpi in purgatorio” which is octopus prepared with onions, hot chilli pepper, parsley and extra virgin olive oil (literally “octopus in hell”!), and finally, “Triglie alla Ngorda” (gluttonous mullet!), red mullet cooked with breadcrumbs, oil, garlic and salt.

The stage: Oh look, another sprint stage. The likely doomed break of the day was a trio.
Approaching 75 kilometers to go and the gap was around 1:30.
With twenty kilometers to go, it was about thirty seconds and the sprint trains were getting ready.
Fifty five kilometers to go and no update? Well, it was a rather dull stage and not a lot of happened.
Just over seventeen kilometers to go and there came the catch.
As much as I complain about these stages, it is worth watching one at the end just to see the jockeying for position. It is both fascinating and terrifying.
The winner on the day: Caleb Ewan with a dominant performance.
Pos.Rider Name (Country) TeamResult
1Caleb Ewan (Aus) Lotto Soudal4:42:12
2Davide Cimolai (Ita) Israel Start-up Nation
3Tim Merlier (Bel) Alpecin-Fenix
4Matteo Moschetti (Ita) Trek-Segafredo
5Andrea Pasqualon (Ita) Intermarché-Wanty-Gobert Matériaux
6Fernando Gaviria Rendon (Col) UAE Team Emirates
7Dylan Groenewegen (Ned) Jumbo-Visma
8Max Kanter (Ger) Team DSM
9Filippo Fiorelli (Ita) Bardiani CSF Faizane'
10Juan Sebastian Molano Benavides (Col) UAE Team Emirates
General classification after stage 7
Pos.Rider Name (Country) TeamResult
1Attila Valter (Hun) Groupama-FDJ26:59:18
2Remco Evenepoel (Bel) Deceuninck-QuickStep0:00:11
3Egan Bernal Gomez (Col) Ineos Grenadiers0:00:16
4Aleksandr Vlasov (Rus) Astana-Premier Tech0:00:24
5Louis Vervaeke (Bel) Alpecin-Fenix0:00:25
6Damiano Caruso (Ita) Bahrain Victorious0:00:39
7Giulio Ciccone (Ita) Trek-Segafredo0:00:41
8Daniel Martin (Irl) Israel Start-up Nation0:00:47
9Simon Yates (GBr) Team BikeExchange0:00:49
10Davide Formolo (Ita) UAE Team Emirates0:00:55






The wine: Cantina Indigeno Bianco 2019
They say: Day drinkers beware: Indigeno's 2019 Bianco is an out and out slugger - truly dangerous stuff here and a wine that seems to will the drinker to consume with reckless abandon! 100% Trebbiano that feels like it's just bursting to get out of the bottle; lime pop rocks and lemon warheads on the tongue (yes, there's a little spritz here!) softening into fleshier golden fruits anjou pear, meyer lemon and white peach, pocked at every corner with salty minerals and zippy acidity. 





The food: Polpi in Puragtorio. Recipe here

Thursday, May 13, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 6: Grotte di Frasassi to Ascoli Piceno

Where are we? In the Marche.
Grotte di FrasassiThe village of Genga is a small medieval castle built on the rock located in the heart of the Marche, along the pre-Appennine band a stone’s throw from the city of Fabriano in the province of Ancona. Recognized as the birthplace of Pope Leo XII (1760-1829), Genga owes its national and international notoriety to Frasassi Caves, destination every year of hundreds of thousands of tourists from all over the world. Inserted within the Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Regional Natural Park, its territory immersed in nature is a popular destination for hikers, climbers, speleologists and bikers.
Ascoli Piceno lies at the confluence of the Tronto and Castellano rivers. The ancient centre of the Picenes (early inhabitants of the Adriatic coast), it was conquered in the 3rd century BC by the Romans, who knew it as Asculum Picenum. 

Giro Specialities: 
Grotte di Frasassi: Genga is known throughout Italy for its long tradition of salami factories and norcinerie: a past ritual carried out today by the Salumificio di Genga.
Among the most appreciated gastronomic typicalities, in addition to the great variety of sausages and cold cuts, there is certainly porchetta cooked according to the ancient recipes handed down from generation to generation. Flavors of the time that can be tasted in the many trattorias and restaurants present in the area, where you can also taste dishes based on fine truffle, very widespread in the Genga and Fabriano area and based on game, including wild boar.
The traditional peasant cuisine is represented in particular by handmade pasta: right in Genga you can taste the typical pincinelle, a particular type of handmade pasta similar to rolled noodles. When it comes to homemade pasta, in the tradition of the Marche hinterland, the famous vincisgrassi present on the menu of many local inns can certainly not be ignored: a tasty variant of baked pasta or lasagna with origin dating back to the late 1700s seasoned with a rich meat sauce and served especially during the holidays or during Sunday family lunches.
Other delicacies to count are certainly the crescia, a typical focaccia cooked under the grill accompanied by cured meats, wild herbs or pork fats, the ciauscolo, a sausage typical of the peasant tradition, the snails and polenta, a dish often accompanied by wild boar sauce and protagonist of the Autumn Festival held in Genga at the end of October.
As for desserts, among the excellences of local gastronomy there is certainly the cicerchiata, a carnival dessert typical of the area and now widespread throughout the regional territory. The name cicerchiata has medieval origin and derives from the words “pile of cicerchie”, legumes similar to peas or chickpeas covered with honey. Another typical dessert of the local tradition also wrapped in an abundant dose of honey are castagnole, bullets of sweet fried pasta, which in fact constitute one of the tastiest specialties in the area. Finally, to include the crescia fojata, a thin puff pastry, stuffed with apples and dried fruit and rolled on itself.
The stage: This is a fun profile, at least for the viewers. Well, it would have been, but for the picture break up. Bad weather challenges riders, but also tv helicopters and the ability to transmit from motorbikes. But, hey, nice cave: Not starting today, after yesterday's crashes: Landa (who DNFed), Dombrowski, Sivakov and Bidard.
Without being able to see the race at all, it was hard to know what was going on. Luckily, the Giro social media team had an update:
With a fixed camera at the kom point, we had a brief glimpse of riders! Now in the lead in that category: Bouchard.  We don't see it happen, but there was a split in the peloton, with De Marchi struggling under pressure from the Ineos team.
Pictures!
Fifty seven kilometers to go and the gap to the Ineos led bunch was under two minutes. De Marchi was about 1:40 further behind. Somedays professional riding looks like a pleasant, if demanding career. Today, was not one of those days. It simply looked miserable.
Speaking of miserable, this was still to come:

And then we had a rider taken out by a race car: Just above nine kilometers from the finish and Ganna finally pulled off from the front of the peloton. The gap to the break was around two minutes.
Five kilometers to go and the gap to the front was down to 1:36. A reminder that that group was Cataldo, Mollema and Mader. Surging forward from that group was Mader. With three kilometers to go, the gap was down to one minute. Launching from the peloton was Martinez. Next up was Bernal and that would cause a reaction from the bunch. One kilometer and it was 30 seconds to Mader.
Hanging on for the win: Mader. Next in Bernal.








The wine
2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Capovolto”
Back to Kermit Lynch for a wine that was just joyful. They tell me that: The La Marca di San Michele estate in Cupramontana is run by the sibling team of Alessandro Bonci, Beatrice Bonci, and Daniela Quaresima. They are light years ahead of most of their neighbors in growing their six hectares of Verdicchio vines entirely organically, vinifying with minimal SO2, aging some cuvées in large botte, and bottling unfiltered. Cupramontana is the historical birthplace of Verdicchio production in Le Marche–the region’s first vineyards were registered in the land office here in 1471. Camaldolite monks began viticulture here many centuries earlier in 1186, in the area of San Michele, a rural frazione bordering Cupramontana. La Marca refers to a “border district.” All of these rural territories were united to form the region of “Le Marche,” the only Italian region that takes the plural.

The food: Vincisgrassi because why not a baked pasta? Recipe here.  

Wednesday, May 12, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 5: Modena to Cattolica

Where are we? Heading to the coast. 

Modena: The travel site of Emilia Romagna tells me that: Modena is the ideal city: its admirable architectural treasures are a Unesco World Heritage Site, its hospitality focuses on cuisine and cultural life, all with a fascinating and characteristic blend of innovation and tradition. Visitors are pampered at table by the flavours of traditional balsamic vinegar accompanying local specialities and can stroll in the narrow city centre streets or Piazza Grande. They will be enthralled by the mystical beauty of the Cathedral or fascinated by the modern products of Modena's inventiveness such as Ferrari, Maserati, Pagani and Stanguellini motor vehicles.

Cattolica: They tell me it is: 
the southernmost seaside resort on the Adriatic Riviera of Emilia Romagna, about twenty kilometres from Rimini and on the border with the Marche region.  Also that: A visit to Cattolica Aquarium is a must. Its highly technological attractions take visitors on an adventurous journey to discover the sea and its history and meet its inhabitants face to face, sharks included.

Giro Specialties:
Modena: Excellence, tradition, and flavor: In Modena, three words that describe the ideal menu. Your voyage among local food and wine traditions begins with a delicious antipasto of cured meats, with Prosciutto di Modena as the star attraction. The place of honor among Modena’s first courses is reserved for tortellini, pasta squares folded around a filling of pork, prosciutto, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Meat dishes include cotechino and zampone, a mixture of ground pork flavored with herbs and spices and stuffed into the skin of a trotter. You’re also sure to enjoy Crescentine (known locally as “tigelle”) and Gnocco Fritto, either as side dishes or main courses, two delightful specialties typically served with cheese and charcuterie or various sauces. No table in Modena is complete without traditional balsamic vinegar, a silky elixir that’s unique among the cuisines of the world. “Balsamico” is made from the must of cooked grapes that are allowed to age until acid develops during natural fermentation and is then gradually concentrated in a lengthy aging process. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese serves as a faithful companion, typically enjoyed in thin slices with a drop of two of traditional balsamic vinegar. Such a sumptuous meal pairs naturally with a fine glass of Lambrusco, a sparkling red that is the best-selling wine in the world, the perfect accompaniment to local cuisine. Finish off with a heaping serving of Vignola Cherries or Amarene Brusche preserves, made from the dark-colored sour cherries that grow in and around Modena. The quality of both these local delicacies is guaranteed by the “protected geographical origin” symbol. You’ll also find a wide variety of specialty sweets and baked goods such as the Bensone (a traditional pastry made with flour, milk, eggs, butter, and sugar and sometimes filled with jam), Zuppa Inglese (a trifle made with sponge cake, a red herbal liqueur, and custard), and amaretti cookies. Here’s one piece of advice: Don’t leave the table without ordering a glass of Nocino, a delightful digestif made from walnuts.

Cattolica:The “Miacetto” and the “Bilzulà” are traditional food speciailties of Cattolica. The first is a dried fruit oven cooked cake enriched with honey, cytrus peel, sugar and middling, without yeast, it has been known for centuries and is still very important in the local tradition. Its recipe is well known even if each family hands down through the generations its own variation. Miacetto is usually made at home, it is a gift for relatives and friends that strengthens the bonds of affection, however during the Christmas period is also on sale in bakeries and pastry shops.
The “Bilzulà” was the livelihood of fishermen when they were at sea, a sort of bisciut-bread they brought with them during long fishing trips. Its doughnut shape was very useful because it was hung first to the belt of the trousers and then high in the hold to prevent a wave, carrying water in the bottom of the hull, soaked it.It was used as a food reserve at sea, being able to keep for several days andsoaked in wine. The traditional cuisine of Cattolica is rich in sea dishes: Adriaticsea fishes, strozzapreti pasta, tagliatelle and piadina.

The stage: Another day for the sprinters. Perhaps having sensed doom, only two riders set out on the break:  Filippo Tagliani (Androni Giocattoli-Sidermec), Umberto Marengo (Bardiani-CSF-Faizanè). Their breakaway would indeed not last.
At sixty eight kilometers to go, another likely doomed break set off:  Simon Pellaud (Androni Giocattoli-Sidermec), Davide Gabburo (Bardiani-CSF-Faizanè). Eventually, Alexis Gougeard would attack from the peloton and join the duo. 
Twenty seven kilometers to go and they had only 22 seconds over the bunch.

The finish, by the way, was not as straight as the stage.
Meanwhile, a crash by Sivakov and it looked to be a question as to whether or not he would continue beyond this stage as he waved off a teammate who had come to help bring him back to the main peloton.
TA crash as they came into town, but everyone was back up and riding.
Eight kilometers to go and the trio ahead had about nine seconds. 
There would be another bad crash, with Landa among those down and he was clearly hurt and not getting up. 
With the stage win, Caleb Ewan. Nizzolo with yet another second place. After the finish, the teammates who had waited for Landa came in without him, so it looked like a DNF for him. I hate stages like this.




The Wine
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Frizzante Secco, Fattoria Moretto
Back to Kermit Lynch for this great quote: “Moretto is to Lambrusco what Tempier and Terrebrune are to rosé. It reminds me of the best reds of Bandol and Tuscany, with herbs like thyme, and a sort of dusty mineral quality, like you find in some of the top Bordeaux and Tuscan wines.”
Conveniently, the New York Times has published an article last week focused on Lambrusco. I admit to not trying the Lambrusco spritz with this bottle, but maybe someday? It does sound refreshing. 


The Food Parmegiano-Reggiano cheese
Parmigiano-Reggiano is produced exclusively in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and parts of the provinces of Mantua and Bologna, on the plains, hills and mountains enclosed between the rivers Po and Reno.
The consortium says: It is not necessary to carry out laborious research to gather documents on the ancient origins of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Historical evidence shows that already in 1200-1300, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese had reached its perfect typicality that has remained unchanged until the present day.
Today like in the past, cheese masters continue in their effort and in their risk by sincerely and proudly persisting in making their cheese with solely milk, rennet, fire and art, and in abiding by the rigorous centuries-old methods and application of the technique that is the result of special vocations and matured experiences.
The recent history of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is essentially the history of how the approximately 350 small artisan dairies of the typical area (that encompasses about three thousand milk producers) has obtained, by way of Law, the recognition of their determination in preserving the processing method and the very high qualitative level of the product.