Wednesday, May 12, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 5: Modena to Cattolica

Where are we? Heading to the coast. 

Modena: The travel site of Emilia Romagna tells me that: Modena is the ideal city: its admirable architectural treasures are a Unesco World Heritage Site, its hospitality focuses on cuisine and cultural life, all with a fascinating and characteristic blend of innovation and tradition. Visitors are pampered at table by the flavours of traditional balsamic vinegar accompanying local specialities and can stroll in the narrow city centre streets or Piazza Grande. They will be enthralled by the mystical beauty of the Cathedral or fascinated by the modern products of Modena's inventiveness such as Ferrari, Maserati, Pagani and Stanguellini motor vehicles.

Cattolica: They tell me it is: 
the southernmost seaside resort on the Adriatic Riviera of Emilia Romagna, about twenty kilometres from Rimini and on the border with the Marche region.  Also that: A visit to Cattolica Aquarium is a must. Its highly technological attractions take visitors on an adventurous journey to discover the sea and its history and meet its inhabitants face to face, sharks included.

Giro Specialties:
Modena: Excellence, tradition, and flavor: In Modena, three words that describe the ideal menu. Your voyage among local food and wine traditions begins with a delicious antipasto of cured meats, with Prosciutto di Modena as the star attraction. The place of honor among Modena’s first courses is reserved for tortellini, pasta squares folded around a filling of pork, prosciutto, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Meat dishes include cotechino and zampone, a mixture of ground pork flavored with herbs and spices and stuffed into the skin of a trotter. You’re also sure to enjoy Crescentine (known locally as “tigelle”) and Gnocco Fritto, either as side dishes or main courses, two delightful specialties typically served with cheese and charcuterie or various sauces. No table in Modena is complete without traditional balsamic vinegar, a silky elixir that’s unique among the cuisines of the world. “Balsamico” is made from the must of cooked grapes that are allowed to age until acid develops during natural fermentation and is then gradually concentrated in a lengthy aging process. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese serves as a faithful companion, typically enjoyed in thin slices with a drop of two of traditional balsamic vinegar. Such a sumptuous meal pairs naturally with a fine glass of Lambrusco, a sparkling red that is the best-selling wine in the world, the perfect accompaniment to local cuisine. Finish off with a heaping serving of Vignola Cherries or Amarene Brusche preserves, made from the dark-colored sour cherries that grow in and around Modena. The quality of both these local delicacies is guaranteed by the “protected geographical origin” symbol. You’ll also find a wide variety of specialty sweets and baked goods such as the Bensone (a traditional pastry made with flour, milk, eggs, butter, and sugar and sometimes filled with jam), Zuppa Inglese (a trifle made with sponge cake, a red herbal liqueur, and custard), and amaretti cookies. Here’s one piece of advice: Don’t leave the table without ordering a glass of Nocino, a delightful digestif made from walnuts.

Cattolica:The “Miacetto” and the “Bilzulà” are traditional food speciailties of Cattolica. The first is a dried fruit oven cooked cake enriched with honey, cytrus peel, sugar and middling, without yeast, it has been known for centuries and is still very important in the local tradition. Its recipe is well known even if each family hands down through the generations its own variation. Miacetto is usually made at home, it is a gift for relatives and friends that strengthens the bonds of affection, however during the Christmas period is also on sale in bakeries and pastry shops.
The “Bilzulà” was the livelihood of fishermen when they were at sea, a sort of bisciut-bread they brought with them during long fishing trips. Its doughnut shape was very useful because it was hung first to the belt of the trousers and then high in the hold to prevent a wave, carrying water in the bottom of the hull, soaked it.It was used as a food reserve at sea, being able to keep for several days andsoaked in wine. The traditional cuisine of Cattolica is rich in sea dishes: Adriaticsea fishes, strozzapreti pasta, tagliatelle and piadina.

The stage: Another day for the sprinters. Perhaps having sensed doom, only two riders set out on the break:  Filippo Tagliani (Androni Giocattoli-Sidermec), Umberto Marengo (Bardiani-CSF-Faizanè). Their breakaway would indeed not last.
At sixty eight kilometers to go, another likely doomed break set off:  Simon Pellaud (Androni Giocattoli-Sidermec), Davide Gabburo (Bardiani-CSF-Faizanè). Eventually, Alexis Gougeard would attack from the peloton and join the duo. 
Twenty seven kilometers to go and they had only 22 seconds over the bunch.

The finish, by the way, was not as straight as the stage.
Meanwhile, a crash by Sivakov and it looked to be a question as to whether or not he would continue beyond this stage as he waved off a teammate who had come to help bring him back to the main peloton.
TA crash as they came into town, but everyone was back up and riding.
Eight kilometers to go and the trio ahead had about nine seconds. 
There would be another bad crash, with Landa among those down and he was clearly hurt and not getting up. 
With the stage win, Caleb Ewan. Nizzolo with yet another second place. After the finish, the teammates who had waited for Landa came in without him, so it looked like a DNF for him. I hate stages like this.




The Wine
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Frizzante Secco, Fattoria Moretto
Back to Kermit Lynch for this great quote: “Moretto is to Lambrusco what Tempier and Terrebrune are to rosé. It reminds me of the best reds of Bandol and Tuscany, with herbs like thyme, and a sort of dusty mineral quality, like you find in some of the top Bordeaux and Tuscan wines.”
Conveniently, the New York Times has published an article last week focused on Lambrusco. I admit to not trying the Lambrusco spritz with this bottle, but maybe someday? It does sound refreshing. 


The Food Parmegiano-Reggiano cheese
Parmigiano-Reggiano is produced exclusively in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and parts of the provinces of Mantua and Bologna, on the plains, hills and mountains enclosed between the rivers Po and Reno.
The consortium says: It is not necessary to carry out laborious research to gather documents on the ancient origins of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Historical evidence shows that already in 1200-1300, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese had reached its perfect typicality that has remained unchanged until the present day.
Today like in the past, cheese masters continue in their effort and in their risk by sincerely and proudly persisting in making their cheese with solely milk, rennet, fire and art, and in abiding by the rigorous centuries-old methods and application of the technique that is the result of special vocations and matured experiences.
The recent history of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is essentially the history of how the approximately 350 small artisan dairies of the typical area (that encompasses about three thousand milk producers) has obtained, by way of Law, the recognition of their determination in preserving the processing method and the very high qualitative level of the product.

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