Saturday, May 15, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 8: Foggia to Guardia Sanframondi


Where are we?
Another two region stage. This time: Puglia and Campania.

Foggia: The Giro tells me that “If God knew this land of Puglia, the apple of my eyes, he would have stopped to live here.” This is how Stupor Mundi, the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II once described the Apulian landscape.
Foggia, lying in the heart of the Apulia Tableland, not only has a vocation for agriculture, but is also a strategic place of innovation and experimentation. With its deeply rooted history, Foggia is the legacy left behind by the epic hero Diomede, the heir to the civilization attributable to the pre-Roman city of Arpi. Its territory is shared among wheat fields, vineyards, stretches of olive trees and lands of tertiary activities.

Guardia Sanframondi is a village of Lombard origin, perched on a hill whose summit is dominated by the Norman Castle built in the 12th century. The village mostly dating back to the 15th century has a medieval urban plan, with the houses joined to each other that climb along the hill spiralling around the ancient castle. Visitors cannot fail to appreciate this stone terrace suspended over the valley and cannot fail to be attracted by the precious architecture of the historical canter.

Giro Specialities:
Foggia: Thanks to the synergy with the Center of Agricultural Research and experimentation, the gastronomy of Foggia, from the cultivation of ancient grains to the enhancement of excellence in biodiversity, is a melting pot of tradition and innovation.
Its typical dishes remind one of the city’s origin as farmers, in a land of transhumance where agriculture meets pastoralism. Among the traditional dishes are “lagane e fave” (fafeijanghe and laghene), a type of pasta similar to tagliatelle, dressed with white bean puree; “pan cotto”, made with slices of bread from Monte Sant’Angelo boiled with vegetables on hand, potatoes and wild rocket, then seasoned with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and bay leaf; “acquasala”, a dish for the poor, made with stale bread softened in water, seasoned with salt, oil, oregano and tomatoes; “pettole”, deep fried bread dough, and “scagliozzi”, fried breaded polenta in a triangular shape; “cardoncelli”, an Easter dish made with tender stalks, lamb and eggs.
Foggian desserts include “taralli neri”, black taralli kneaded with mulled wine and spices, “cartellate”, the carnival fritters served with mulled wine and honey; the typical Christmas dessert “mandorle atterrate”, toasted almonds coated with sugar or chocolate; “pizza di ricotta”, a short-crust pastry made from sheep-milk ricotta for Easter; and “grano dei morti”, cooked grains topped with walnuts, chocolate and pomegranate.
The product of particular merit is the DOC oil for the Coratina, Rotondella, Ogliarola and Peranzana cultivars.

Guardia Sanframondi: The gastronomic tradition of Guardia Sanframondi is linked to its agricultural culture and preserves the taste and flavors of the local land and climate. The local dishes are simple expressions of a complex culture that follows the seasons and values the raw materials with the wisdom that, from generation to generation, reconnects the people to their most ancient traditions.
The excellent olive oil, the local cheese and the cured meats, the homemade pasta, the meat, the baked products, the legumes can always be found on the local tables. Local restaurants offer opportunities to explore this tradition but also to appreciate modern interpretations of the classic local dishes, with interesting ideas, amazing for their simplicity and the freshness of the local flavours.
Some of the traditional dishes are: “Laanella e Fagioli” (Homemade durum wheat tagliatelle in a bean soup); “Zuppa di Grano e Fagioli” (a soup made with wheat berries and beans); the handmade “Cavatelli” (gnocchi) served in a rich meat sauce; Italian Sausage with Broccoli Rabe; the “Frijtora” (pork meat with peppers and potatoes); “R’ Parruozz” (a small loaf of corn flour spiced with hot chilli peppers and flavoured with anchovies); “Cauzun” (Easter stuffed breads) stuffed with wheat or rice that celebrate the Easter festivities; the Christmas Zeppole (fritters), Stuffed Peppers and Stuffed Artichokes filled with a stuffing made with the local bread, cheese and eggs; the Pastiera with its own distinctive aroma, different than the Neapolitan version.

The stage: Another stage profile that raises the question: break or gc battle? Tomorrow will present major challenges, so it may tip to the break.  Clearly I was not the only one thinking that as it took a long time for the break to be established.
Also news of Caleb Ewan abandoning after a crash, but then maybe not because of a crash? Time would tell.
When the break was finally formed, it consisted of: Fernando Gaviria (UAE Team Emirates), Nelson Oliveira (Movistar), Kobe Goossens (Lotto Soudal), Alexis Gougeard (AG2R Citroën), Nikias Arndt (Team DSM), Victor Lafay (Cofidis), Giovanni Carboni (Bardiani-CSF-Faizane), Francesco Gavazzi (Eolo-Kometa), Victor Campenaerts (Qhubeka Assos).
Seventy kilometers to go and the gap was at seven minutes.
Fifty kilometers to and the gap was still at seven minutes.
Ahead, Gaviria launched from the break and crashed into a wall. He would get back up and continue, but would lose contact with the lead group. Surprisingly perhaps, he would eventually make it back to them.
Under 25 kilometers to go and the gap was just under seven minutes.
Numerous attack upfront eventually led to Gougeard getting a but of a gap, perhaps inspired by the fact that Sean Kelly had picked him on air. 
Ten kilometers to go and they were back together, just in time to climb.
Five kilometers to go and Campenaerts and Carboni were out front, with Gougeard next on the road.
Three kilometers to go and it was Carboni solo, but his gap was not large.
Catching and passing him, Lafay. He would hold on for the stage win.
Behind, no gc excitement.

Stage:


The wine
Cantina Pantun Rosato
One of these years I am going to drink an entirely pink Giro. This is not that year, but this wine was fun.
A bit from the importer: Cantina Pantun is a small family run winery in Mottola, Puglia. Husband Mimmo and wife Jutta started the Cantina in 2012 after having worked in the restaurant industry, studying literature, and being involved in social and political activism. Their desire to connect with the land brought them here to farm organically on the Pantun (a local name for "swamp"). Growing mostly Primitivo in rich clay soil, they farm and vinify with the least intervention as possible.

The food: I turned to Foggia Today for a recipe for “lagane e fave." 

Few ingredients , but essential to give the dish a delicious flavor. Therefore, preparation becomes fundamental.
For this dish they serve dried broad beans, lagane (pasta similar to fettuccine) not with egg, an onion, a little wine and extra virgin olive oil.

As a preliminary procedure , you need to put the beans in a pan of warm water and leave them to soak for twelve hours.

After that, the actual preparation can begin. In an earthenware pot filled with water, put the sliced ​​onion and broad beans. When the water boils, reduce the heat and let the beans cook. Put the salt, and in a separate pan cook the fettuccine, drain them when they are still al dente, and place them in the pot with the bean puree where they will complete their cooking. Add a drop of oil and serve.


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