Friday, May 24, 2019

Wine and Food of the Giro 2019: Stage 13

Where are we? CERESOLE REALE (Lago Serrù) Located in the Piedmontese side of Gran Paradiso National Park, Ceresole Reale has a great environmental value: both in summer and in winter you can play all the sports related to the mountains in an unpolluted environment. The little town lies in the centre of a basin surrouned by majestic peaks, which are reflected in the clear waters of the lake, navigable only by means without engine. Here you can enjoy many outdoor activities: trekking, climbing, biking, fishing, cross-country and mountaineering ski, wandering with snow rackets, ice fall climbing, all of them in a protected environment which makes you feel good. 

GASTRONOMY: Different meat with polenta (i.e. a cornmeal mush), polenta concia (i.e. polenta with melted butter and cheese), Gran Paradiso soup, trout cooked in a variety of ways. Renowned are also “toma” and butter from alpine pasture. Various kind of honey.  

The stage: Why, hi mountains. We've been waiting for you.

Up the road, a break of 28 riders, not given a lot of rope. Also word of a traffic jam ahead, possibly involving team buses.
Rather beautiful as well:


As they climbed, a pratfall by a fan attempting to run next to the riders caused some amusement on Eurosport. One of the interesting things about the sport is how close fans can get to the riders. Most are respectful. Some are not.


Closing in on 60 kilometers to go and the Astana led and rather small favorites group was just about a minute behind the remaining breakaway riders. At the top, Ciccone takes maximum kom points, cementing his lead. Now time for a descent which is fun to watch, but probably terrifying to do. The road is narrow, to say the least.

Forty kilometers to go and some regrouping in the chase group. A little bit of a respite as they prepare for the final climb.
Along the road: Ibex! Marmotte! 


Eighteen kilometers to go and the gap was around 2:30 to the pink jersey group. That group ahead would shed members rapidly on the climb.

First to attack out of the gc group: Landa. Struggling Yates and Polanc. He would reach teammates, to help him.
Horrible time for a mechanical for Lopez. The favorites group is now reduced to
Pozzovivo, Nibali, Carapaz, Roglic, Majka and Sivakov. Landa was still 17 seconds or so ahead, working with a teammate to try and gain time.


Under five kilometers to go and Zakarin attacks from the front group.
Behind, Pozzovivo drops from the Nibali group after a lot of hard work.
A move by Nibali, covered by the rest of the group. Next to go, Majka.
Ahead, Nieve caught Zakarin.
Essentially: Zakarin → Nieve → Bauke → Landa → Carapaz, Majka, Sivakov → Nibali, Roglic → Lopez.
Roglic attack, covered by Nibali.  That would bring them up to Sivakov, who they would leave behind. Ahead, Zakarin drops Nieve.
The stage winner: Zakarin. Next up: Nieve. Landa in third, gaining some very valuable time. Majka gaining time as well, as Roglic and Nibali ride in together.



 


The wine:  Umberto Fracassi Langhe Favorita 
Fracassi’s favorita (aka vermentino) is fermented half in barrel and half in stainless, and is aged in stainless tanks. This crisp, refreshing white offers scents of lemon, orchard flower, herbs, and rock/salt, with a zingy, stony finish.

From the importer: Umberto Fracassi’s family has been producing Barolo since 1880, a time when Barolo went from being un vino dolce to the grande vino secco that we all know today. After the Second World War, Marchese Fracassi, or simply Umberto, dedicated himself to carrying on the family tradition of producing old-school Barolo in Slavonian oak botti. The town of Cherasco sits at the northwest corner of the Barolo zone, just west of La Morra and Verduno, and its growing area includes Fracassi’s two-hectare Barolo monopole cru Mantoetto. This area is also known as Italy’s capital of snail production. Umberto also produces some white Favorita (Vermentino) that’s a good way to start a meal, as the Barolo is opening up in the decanter.
Journalist Levi Dalton did a fun and infomative interview on Umberto that I highly recommend: http://illdrinktothatpod.com/search/fracassi
 

The food:  Polenta concia
NGREDIENTS:
4 Tbs. unsalted butter
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
5 cups water
1½ Tbs. kosher salt
2 cups fine yellow cornmeal, Anson Mills Antebellum brand preferred
Olive oil
6 oz. thinly sliced, high quality Muenster cheese
5 oz. heavy cream

DIRECTIONS: 
Heat the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook the garlic until it is golden brown. Immediately remove the saucepan from the heat. Set aside.
Bring the water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the salt and reduce the heat to medium. Whisking continuously, slowly pour in the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to low and cook the cornmeal for about 45 minutes, or until it’s very thick. Use a wooden spoon to fold it over onto itself every five to seven minutes. A medium-brown crust will form on the bottom of the pot because the cornmeal is cooking a long time. It’s an indication that you are doing it right.
Brush a nine-inch by nine-inch baking dish with olive oil. Dump half of the cornmeal in and spread it out evenly. Layer the sliced cheese on top. Spread the remaining half of the cornmeal over it.
Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat until hot. Gently reheat the garlic butter over the lowest heat.
Using the handle of a spoon, make holes through the polenta all the way to the bottom of the baking dish. Pour the garlic butter sauce over the polenta, then pour on the hot cream. Serve immediately.
To make up to three days ahead, layer the cooked polenta and the cheese in the baking dish, cover, and refrigerate. Before serving, heat them in a warm oven until hot. Make the holes in the polenta, heat the garlic butter and cream, and pour them on. Serve immediately.
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