Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Wine and Food of the Giro 2019 Stage 17

Where are we? 
OMMEZZADURA (Val di Sole) Commezzadura is a town in Trentino (Italy) with 1.020 inhabitants, formed by the separate hamlets of Mestriago (where the city hall is based), Mastellina, Deggiano, Daolasa, Almazzago and Piano. Back in time, the main economical sources of those villages were based on animal farming and forestry: today, Commezzadura has its main focus on tourism, both in Summer and Winter time, mainly targeting active vacation and outdoor sports lovers.
GASTRONOMY: With its mostly agricultural tradition, the Val di Sole cuisine is based on simple and nutritious courses, featuring genuine local ingredients such as potatoes, apples, small fruits and cheese. Indeed, the most typical products of the valley are milk products: butter, cheese like “grana trentino”, or the delightful soft “casoleti”, made from raw milk and served in fresh and half-mature varieties paired with cold cuts, speck and rye bread. Another characteristic product is the ricotta – “poina” in the local dialect”. It can be enjoyed fresh, or used as filling for the “capelazi” (big ravioli), for dumplings or biscuits.

ANTERSELVA/ANTHOLZ: Rasen-Anterselva (Rasen-Antholz in German) is an Italian municipality of 2.903 inhabitants of the Autonomous Province of Bolzano in Trentino-Alto Adige, whose altitude varies from 926 m to 3.436 m. The valley is known for years as one of the stops of the biathlon World Cup. The name Rasen means “swamp” and is attested as Resine or Rasine in 1050-1065, Niderräsen in 1353. The German word Antholz means “opposite” (ant) “to the wood” (Holz).
GASTRONOMY: The Valley of Anterselva is famous for its typical South Tyrolean dishes. Tasty and traditional dishes, served in original, typically regional places. You can also taste the traditional and crunchy Schüttelbrot bread, good cheese and smoked bacon, accompanied by a good glass of wine.

 The stage: Perhaps a breakaway after all of yesterday's efforts? Indeed and a large one. Eventually, Bakelants would take off from the group.



Even more action up at the front:



 Adventuring out of that group: Conti and Conci. There would be regrouping before Nans Peters launched, getting himself a bit of a gap.
Behind the gc groups seemed to be saving their energy for the mountains to come later in the week.
Five kilometers to go and Peters had about one minute.
As he closed in, attacks from behind. There went Landa and Carthy.
Ahead: Peters takes the stage! 
Behind, Landa was gaining time.

 





The wine: Baron Widmann Vernatsch
A longtime favorite. 
From the importer:  "If we had to choose the five best grape-growers in Italy, the name of Andreas Widmann would be amongst the first to come to mind." ~Gambero Rosso
Andreas Widmann is a producer of very small quantities of excellent wine (in my opinion some of the best made in the Alto Adige). His beautiful old house and cellar are in the old part of the village of Cortaccia; the cellar is under the house, and the scale of it is more like home winemaking than commercial production. His family has made wine here since 1824. The imacculately tended vineyards are just south of the village on steep slopes at altitudes between 250 and 600 meters (almost 2000 feet) above sea level. Andreas follows every aspect of the grapegrowing and winemaking himself, a Baron with dirt under his fingernails. The wines are impeccably made and full of character, an ideal combination. The only problem here, as with many of the best small growers from the south Tirol, is that there is very little wine available, as the local market is so strong. Nonetheless I am delighted to be able to offer these gems.
Vernatsch is the local name for the Trollinger (or Schiava) variety, which produces pale red, delicious and very drinkable table wines (sort of like a cross between Beaujolais and Bourgeuil and as mouthwatering and savory as that description suggests). Andreas's version is top-notch, with hints of spices and herbs. It is an excellent complement to most pork dishes and great with salumi (or the local Speck ham, which I am starting to see over here). This is a wine to be drunk and not discussed.



The food:  Schüttelbrot breadhttps://www.suedtirol.info/en/experience/eating-drinking/recipes/schuttelbrot-chrunchy-flat-bread_recipe_51876
Ingredients
    • 250 g rye flour
    • 250 ml lukewarm water (30° C)
    • 20 g fresh yeast
    • 500 g rye flour
    • 250 g wheat flour
    • 20 g fresh yeast dissolved in 850 ml lukewarm water (30 °C)
    • 20 g salt, 5 g fennel
    • 5 g cumin seeds
    • 5 g fenugreek

Preparation

Sourdough starter:
Dissolve the yeast in lukewarm water, add to the flour, mix well to produce a soft dough, cover and leave to leaven in a warm place (30 °C) for 1 hour.
Completion:
Mix the sourdough with the remaining ingredients to produce a uniform dough, cover and leave to rest for 10-15 min. Divide the dough into 10 pieces of similar size (150 g), form into rolls and place onto cloths dusted with flour. Leave to rise for 10 min. The bread is called Schüttelbrot because it is shaken flat. Place each roll onto a board the size of a pizza and shake, turning the board and causing the rolls to broaden until they are finally flat. Bake at 210-220 °C for approx. 30 min.

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