Thursday, July 7, 2022

Wine and Food of the Tour de France, Stage 6: Binche to Longwy

Where are we? Belgium and the Moselle
Binche: Le Tour tells me that: The Binche Carnival is an exceptional living heritage, an extraordinary popular, human and social event. It was listed as an Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2003. This folk event, which is the result of a long oral tradition, is a real rite that gives participants the feeling of being unique. For the people of Binche and according to the traditional expression, "There is only one Binche in the world". The origins of the Binche Carnival are difficult to establish with certainty. The most successful legend is that of the Gille descended from the Incas, imagined by the journalist Adolphe Delmée in the 19th century. These Incas are said to have appeared in costume during the celebrations organised by Mary of Hungary in 1549 to welcome her brother, Charles V, and her nephew, Philip II. The people of Binche appreciated their colourful and exotic costumes and perpetuated this parade in the city. This far-fetched hypothesis still appeals to those involved in the Binche Carnival because it gives them a rather flattering historical character.  
Le Tour specialities: Binche doubles (small buckwheat pancakes filled with cheese), La Binchoise beer, Ruffus sparkling wines, Binche Gin, Binche lace.

Longwy: The name of Longwy can be commonly associated with a triptych around fire. The fire of the cannons evokes the military past and the fortifications of the town, the fire of the blast furnaces the industrial epic and finally the fire of the earthenware kilns to mark the know-how of the local craftsmen of Longwy Enamel and Chinaware. Louis XIV, aware of the strategic importance of the place, had a citadel built, which is reflected today in the fortified enclosure as well as the districts and squares of the upper town. Of the 160 or so fortifications that Vauban had built, Longwy is one of the few to have been created from scratch, which meant that in 2006 it was included in the Vauban National Network, which, since July 2008, has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 
Le Tour specialties: potée lorraine, mirabelle plum, Longwy enamel and earthenware, étoile Vauban (pastry)


Christian Prudhomme says: This is a long trek through the Ardennes, and the contenders for victory will have togauge their effort well if they want to shine in the finale, which is even tougher than the one that featured the last time the Tour visited Longwy. The leading puncheurs will be to the fore on the Mur de Pulventeux, situated 6km from the finish (800m long and averaging 12%), before having the opportunity to show their explosive qualities on the Côte des Religieuses.

The stage: An update from yesterday: Roglic separated his shoulder on the stage, put in back in and was riding again today. 
A long stage after a tough day? That is often a recipe for a breakaway. Indeed, it was a challenge for the break to form, with a few attempts needed to make things stick. And when it did? Surprise!
Why would he go on a breakwaay? I suppose, why not? 
Many kilometers down the road he would drop Fuglsang and a bit later, Simmons.
Twenty three kilometers to go and he still had a gap of 1:05.  This could be very interesting. And then is started to drop quickly. With 17 kilometers to go, it was down to 30 seconds. Behind, the speed of the peloton was sending many riders out the back, so if they did make the catch, many of the sprinters would not be there to contest. There was a crash in the pack with Janse van Rensburg, Madouas, and Kuss, as they closed in. 
With 11 kilometers to, van Aert was caught and dropped. Another crash on a turn with Vlasov involved. This was becoming rather nervous. As they climbed, an attack by Pogacar, stretching out the peloton. With 4 kilometers to go, Alexis Vuillermoz had 8 seconds over the Pogacar group that included just 30 riders. Under two kilometers to go and he was caught. 
Pogacar, making it look easy. Into yellow and many would bet he will keep it for the rest of the race. Stage:

GC: 

The wine: Chateau de Vaux Les Gryphees Moselle Blanc 
From the importer: The tiny Moselle AOC (just 100 acres) is tucked up in the northeast corner of France, just over the Vosges Mountains from Alsace, near the Luxembourg border. Although an important wine region up to the mid-nineteenth century, phylloxera, industrialization, and two world wars brought near obliteration of viticulture around Metz, in Lorraine.
Originally, production was sold to make champagne until 1910, when the A.O.C. Champagne was created. Marie-Geneviève and Norbert Molozay discovered the Château de Vaux in September 1999. They saw extraordinary potential in the vineyard, located in the hills of Vaux, Jussy, Lessy and Vic-sur-Seille,as it offered a complete palette of soils and grape varieties. At the time, the Moselle vineyards were spread over 39 hectares, five and a half of which belonged to Château de Vaux. Consolidation of the parcels ensued, the vineyard grew, agricultural techniques improved, and the cellars were restored. Together, Marie-Geneviève and Norbert resuscitated France’s most northerly appellation.

The food: Potee Lorraine, from Epicurious
6 bacon slices, chopped
3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
2 medium onions, chopped
2 14 1/2-ounce cans chicken broth
1 14 1/2-ounce can beef broth
1 cup dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 1 1/2-pound cabbage
3 large carrots, peeled
2 turnips, peeled
2 russet potatoes, peeled
3 15-ounce cans cannellini (white kidney beans), rinsed, drained
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 pound green beans, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

Step 1 Cook bacon in heavy 8-quart Dutch oven over high heat until fat is rendered, about 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to medium bowl. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pot and reserve. Heat fat in pot over high heat. Working in batches, add pork, sprinkle with salt and pepper and brown lightly on all sides. Transfer each batch to bowl with bacon. Add onions to pot. Reduce heat to medium; cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Return pork and bacon to pot. Add broth, wine and bay leaves. Cover; simmer 1 hour.

Step 2 Cut cabbage, carrots, turnips and potatoes into 3/4- to 1-inch pieces. Heat reserved bacon fat in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add cabbage and cook until wilted, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add carrots, turnips and potatoes and stir 5 minutes. Add vegetables to pork. Cover and simmer until pork is tender, about 45 minutes.

Step 3 Add cannellini to stew. Simmer uncovered until stew thickens, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Add cloves. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Rewarm over medium heat, stirring frequently.) Cook green beans in large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and mix into stew. Ladle into shallow bowls and serve.
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