Thursday, July 21, 2022

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2022 Stage 18: Lourdes to Hautacam

Where are we? Why, yes, still in the Pyrenees

Lourdes: The regional tourism site tells me that:  Cosmopolitan, magical and mythical… Lourdes is one of those extraordinary other worldly places. Each year more than 6 million visitors from more than 140 countries visit Lourdes. It was in 1858 in this small mountain town that a young girl called Bernadette saw 18 separate apparitions of the Virgin Mary in a cave close to the river. It is the second most visited town in France after Paris, but Lourdes possesses a calm and tranquillity to offer a place of prayer, charm and legend which leaves nobody insensitive.
The sanctuaries: In 1857 the Virgin Mary made 18 apparitions to Bernadette Soubirous, at the Massabielle grotto. Since then the sanctuaries have received millions of visitors of all nationalities and all faiths. This «Universal» site is accessible 24h / 24h and throughout the year welcomes visitors from the world over. Things to see : the Massabielle Grotto, the Basilica (Immaculate Conception, the underground Basilica Pius 10th, Our Lady of the Rosary, in the form of a cross), the crypt, the St Bernadette church, the Adoration tent, the Reconciliation Chapel and the exterior stations of the cross. Not to be missed is the torchlight procession which takes place every evening at 9pm from April to October.

Le Tour regional specialties:  spit-roasted cake, Bigorre black pork, Pailhasson chocolates, Malespine sweets, Pyrenean cheese, garbure, Tarbais beans

Hautacam: And another ski resort!
Le Tour regional specialties:  garbure bigourdane, rocher des Pyrénées (cake), Black pork of Bigorre.



Christian Prudhomme says: The last mountain test presents all kinds of possibilities. Unexpected collapses, ambushes and twists of all kinds could be on the cards thanks to the linking of the Aubisque and Spandelles passes, the latter appearing on the route for the first time, followed by the final ascent to Hautacam. There’s simply no respite. If the leading positions haven’t been secured by this point, the Tour’s biggest battle could be played out on this final Pyrenean stage.

The stage: The last big mountain day of the race and it was daunting. 
It was also another real challenge to establish a break. 
It was beautiful, to watch.
Eventually, there would be a large break and an attempt to gain some gc time from a few interested in places within the top 10. In particular, Meintjes, who was threatening the third place of Geraint Thomas.
With 40 kilometers to go, the yellow jersey consisted of Jonas Vingegaard, Sepp Kuss (Jumbo-Visma), Tadej Pogacar, Brandon McNulty (UAE Team Emirates), Geraint Thomas, Adam Yates (Ineos Grenadiers), Nairo Quintana (Arkéa-Samsic), David Gaudu, Michael Storer (Groupama-FDJ), Romain Bardet (Team DSM) and Alexander Vlasov (Bora-Hansgrohe) with a gap of 3 minutes to the break.
And then, attack Pogacar with the yellow jersey on his wheel. Kuss would make it back to the duo, followed by some further regrouping. 
Again, an attack by Pogacar and again. You would have to give him an A for effort, but he had yet to make up any time.
Eventually, an attack by Thomas. That was unexpected. But he was not gaining real time over the yellow jersey trio.
Still at the front of the race were Van Aert, Pinot and Martinez. 
Another attack by Pogacar, catching Thomas. This was a stronger attack, but he again did not distance himself. They would continue to power through riders who had been in an earlier break.
So much of this: But still the lead trio had a gap.
Yikes. Very scary moment for Vingegaard on the downhill. He stayed upright, but that would make him very nervous. Pogacar down, but up quickly. Vingegaard would wait for him. Old school rules!
Twenty kilometers to go and Pinot, Van Aert and Martinez still had 2 minutes. The yellow jersey group had been caught by chasers after slowing on the descent. Hey, Macron.
Still to come was the final true mountain of the race.
Up front, attack van Aert. You almost have to laugh. That effort would drop Pinot.  
The yellow jersey would catch the riders in between, as Thomas struggled.
As they climbed, they were steadily gaining ground on the leading duo.
And then came the catch. Amazing to see green, yellow and white all together. If only Geschke had survived to climb with them.
Wow! Pogacar dropped. Van Aert and Vingegaard surged ahead with just under 5 kilometers to go. And then van Aert would drop and be caught and passed by Pogacar. Behind, bike change for Thomas. 
Seeing yellow surge away solo seemed juts about right. It was rather terrifying to watch the fans closing in.
What a win! Hoe would gain over a minute. Stage:

GC:

        
The wine: Camin Larredya Jurançon Les Grains des Copains 2020 From Copake Wine Works Christy says: sweet - and charming. Gotta have a sweet wine!!
From an importer: Jurançon near the city of Pau is a special place for many reasons. It’s simply one of the most beautiful French vineyards, with steep slopes and scenic landscape, including the towering, often snow-covered, Pyrenees in the background.

Jurançon is a pocket-size appellation of about 1,000 hectares farmed by 100 producers. Producing only white wine, it is historically known for late-harvest sweet wine or 'moelleux'. However dry white Jurançon wine was recognised with a separate AOC in 1975, known as 'Jurançon sec'. Dry Jurançon can be among the best whites you'll ever taste, particularly in the hands of a legend like Didier Dagueneau who helped to put Jurançon on the map. Today Jean-Marc Grussaute from Camin Larredya is one of the leading force and gaining plenty of fans among the sommelier community in France.

Jean-Marc and his mother run the show and farm 'their hill' together. The 9 hectares of vines and farm have been owned by the family since the early 1900s, with most of the current vines were planted in 1970s by Jean-Marc’s father. Organic farming has been the norm here from 2007 onwards, certified in 2010 and turning to biodynmaic farming in 2016. The vineyard is classically local in varietal plantings: 65% Petit Manseng, 27% Gros Manseng, 8% Petit Courbu and Camaralet.

The vineyard sits at 300m altitude, with soils of silica-clay and subsoils of puddingstone.  Precision is life here, every action serves the "purpose of the terroir and its continuity", according to Jean-Marc, who respects the soil’s health and its life. It's essential for him that the roots go deep to express the terroirs in the final wine. Jean-Marc works the soils, grow cereals or pulses in between the rows, and uses natural compost when needed. The singularity and honesty of his wines come from permanent attention.

The food: Garbure
Le Tour says: The garbure This is the traditional soup in Bigorre. Made from cabbage and beans, it is simmered with confit or "camayou", a local ham bone. You can find it in many restaurants in the area and especially at the Auberge de l'Arrioutou, the Hautacam restaurant which has made it a speciality.
At the beginning of June, you should not miss the Confrérie de la Garbure in Argelès-Gazost, the traditional celebration of the typical Bigorre dish: mass led by the Ariélès Singers, parade of the brotherhoods of the south-west, inductions, market and garbure meal.
food52 has a recipe! 
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