Monday, July 3, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 3: Amorebieta Extano to Bayonne

Where are we? Leaving Spain for the Pyrenees-Atlantiques. 

Amorebieta Extano: The regional tourism site tells me that this is a town in an unparalleled location with views of the mountains around it, such as Bizkargi and Urrimendi. Its rather abrupt terrain is also crossed by the river Ibaizabal.

They suggest we begin our visit in Amorebieta-Etxano's town centre, where we will see the church of Santa María de Asunción, which stands out because of its main altarpiece. Once visited Cancelada Palace, a beautiful Neo-classical building, we will arrive in Bernagoitia neighbourhood with its church of San Miguel and the Berna Tower, which keeps medieval remains. Likewise, we can enjoy beautiful views of the valley and its surrounding mountains.

Entering San Antonio neighbourhood we will be astonished by the hermitage of San Miguel de Dudea, one of the nicest in the municipality. The area of Larrea, on the other hand, stands out because of the convento of Larrea and López Palace, a beautiful Neo-classical building. Finally, we will get to Etxano and Boroa. Both are remarkable because of their rural character and both form quiet and nice areas with relaxing walks offering marvellous views of Oiz and Belatxikieta mountains.


Regional Specialtieszurrukutuna (garlic soup), cod, squid, txuleta and vegetable stew

Bayonne: The local tourism site tells me that Bayonne owes its significant architectural heritage to its rich history. The port at the confluence of the Nive and Adour rivers and its close proximity to Spain continue to shape its future. The town's long history of defiance is reflected in its motto: Nunquam Polluta (never defiled). Its military and commercial development has been well established over the centuries and is visible on the buildings and beautiful town houses it is reputed for. Bayonne also gave its name to the bayonet, a local 17th century invention.
Bayonne has strong policies on heritage and culture and obtained France's official « Town of Art & History » status  in 2012, in recognition of 2,000 years of history and rich heritage.
Bayonne takes you on a journey through the ages from the Gothic cathedral – a World Heritage Site since 1998 as part of the French Pilgrim Routes of Santiago de Compostela, to the old town restoration project, the ramparts, the cloister and the Château-Vieux
Founded in 1922, the Basque Museum immerses you in the mystery of the Basque people and is unique in France.
The Bonnat- Helleu Museum - currently closed for renovation - is a must for art lovers and houses an important collection of paintings.
Regional SpecialtiesBayonne ham. Bayonne chocolates



Christian Prudhomme saysAnother phase begins as the race reaches French soil in the department of Pyrenees-Atlantiques, where the sprinters will for once be to the fore. The profile of the closing kilometres for what is the Tour’s reunion with Bayonne will give the sprinters’ teams the chance to manoeuvre their lead-out trains into position. The winner of the first sprint always gets a big lift from their success.

The stage: Our first sprint stage! Though the bumps on the stage profile are making some question whether it will be a stage for the true sprinters.
Of note, she says, knocking on wood: Today could be the first chance for the Mark Cavendish to try and get that record-breaking 35th Tour de France stage win, which would see him overtake Eddy Merckx at the top of the all-time Tour stage wins leaderboard. 
Also of note: today they head into France. 
Our break of the say consisted of Powless and Pichon. With the expected bunch finish it would be a long day for them. At 199 kilometers to go, their gap was around 2:30. 
Also, it was rather gorgeous. Off on an adventure, Lafay, likely hoping for more green jersey/sprint points Indeed, he extended his points total to 80 and was fairly quickly reabsorbed by the peloton. Following that effort, eight riders were technically eligible for the green jersey in Bayonne since 50 points would be awarded to the winner:
Victor Lafay (Cofidis) 80 points
Tadej Pogacar (UAE Team Emirates) 42
Wout van Aert (Jumbo-Visma) 36
Neilson Powless (EF Education-EasyPost), 32
Michael Woods (Israel-PremierTech), 31
Mads Pedersen (Lidl-Trek), 31
Jasper Philipsen (Alpecin-Deceuninck), 30
Adam Yates (UAE Team Emirates), 30

Ahead, Powless and Pichon seemed to actually be having a good time, sharing jokes and smiles. 93 kilometers to go and their gap was still around 2 minutes.
With the gap around one minute at 82 kilometers to go, Pichon would set out solo.
Many many flats had viewers wondering about bad road pavement or tacks?
60 kilometers to go and Pichon still had about 2 minutes.
France!
Under 50 kilometers to go and the gap was down to about 1 minute. Forty kilometers and it was about 30 seconds. Under 40 and he was absorbed into the peloton.
On the went, with sprint trains forming in the bunch.
Enough roundabouts on the run in to ramp up the stress even further.
Philipsen!



The wine
Domaine Arretxea Irouleguy Rose 2020
From Copake Wine Works (as are all following wines. As always a big thank you to Christy for all of her hard work in tracking down bottles from each year's route.)

Christy says: On the map, this wine comes from France. But really, it's from the Basque region that crosses the Spanish/French border. It's serious stuff. Structured and robust and just the thing for when you a red would do, but you really want a rose.

Kermit Lynch has some great info on the producer: The Basque country lies along the southwestern border of France and Spain, deep in the dramatic Pyrénées mountains. The eleventh century monks of Roncevaux made wine to cater to a population of tourists—religious pilgrims traveling through the mountain pass from France on their way to Santiago de Compostella in Spain. However, throughout the centuries, wine production dissipated drastically. Although Irouléguy was awarded its own A.O.C. in 1970, by the late twentieth century, most of the remaining vignerons were selling to the local cooperative. And then along came Michel and Thérèse Riouspeyrous…
In 1989, they decided to start their own domaine by renting two hectares of vineyards. The decision to farm organically came rather instantaneously to Michel. Once certified as organic, he and Thérèse pushed on towards the next logical progression: biodynamics. Juxtaposed against a backdrop of co-op wine that has come to categorize the appellation in recent decades, the Riouspeyrous seem even more radical—not only for bottling their own wine, but also for farming it as they do. For Michel and Thérèse, it just translates into a more authentic expression of the grape. A mere glimpse of their steep, terraced land, amid beautifully lush wildflowers, set against the white peaks of the Pyrénées, with sheep grazing on the soft, aerated soils in between vineyard rows, makes it easy to see what inspired such a decision.
The majority of their eight hectares are planted to the native grape varietals, Tannat (red), Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng (whites). The sandstone soils of Irouléguy are ideal for these grapes because they are streaked with iron oxide, mica, silica, limestone, clay, and dolomite. The mineral diversity lends an intensity to the wines, making them wild, earthy, tannic, and rich in spicy aromas. Full southern exposure allows the Riouspeyrous to achieve ripeness in these cooler climate vineyards. They vinify each terroir individually through traditional vinification methods to bottle four delicious cuvées. Their rosé is what Dixon Brooke calls, “a winter rosé”—deep in color, generous in fruit, with unusually pronounced tannins, it is the perfect accompaniment to grilled sausages.


The food: Zurrukutuna recipe from the regional tourist site
Ingredients:
400 gr cod
250 gr green capsicum
8 "choriceros" sun dried peppers
4 cloves of garlic
200 grs toasted bread
4 eggs
Stock
Parsley

Preparation:
Soak the cod the previous day, changing the water three times. The "choricero" sun dried capsicums also must be soaked for at least 5 hours so the flesh separates from the skin. Brown the chopped garlic in an earthenware pot. Add the green capsicum, very finely chopped. When it is soft, add the cod, broken up into very small pieces, the flesh of the sun dried capsicums and the toasted bread, and cover with a bit of stock. Cook the mixture and smash with a fork so it becomes a dough. Just before it finishes cooking, add the unbeaten eggs so they cook on the dough. Sprinkle some chopped parsley over the eggs, and let it cook over the heat until the eggs are set


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