Thursday, July 20, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 18: Moutiers to Bourg en Breese

Where are we? Heading from the Savoie to the Ain. 

Moutiers: The regional tourism site tells me that Moutiers is  the Savoyard capital of Street-Art. Do not miss to discover this unique route in Savoie: 30 murals color the streets of the city. he itinerary is very accessible, and is a good mean to discover the city in a playful way, children love to go in search of the murals ! Only 2 min from the train station. 
They also suggest a cheese factory:  Discover the making of Beaufort and the work of farmers, through explanatory panels, a film and a public audio-visual montage. Visit the cellars and the local produce shop.

Regional Specialties: crozets au gratin, beaufort cheese, Savoy wines, fondue.

Bourg en Bresse: The regional tourist site tells me that Bourg-en-Bresse is neither too big nor too small, and so is ideal for a weekend away with friends or family, to enjoy the carefree atmosphere. The locals, known as ‘burgiens’ in French, particularly enjoy the little gardens, the easy-going summer atmosphere on the sunny terraces, the wide range of cultural activities and of course the great restaurants. Oh and don’t forget, it is pronounced BourK, not BourG, and especially not Bour!
A suggested stop: The name comes across as a bit pompous but if you go on to read these few lines then it has served its purpose. The Royal Monastery of Brou is a must-see of our destination. It was Princess Margaret of Austria who ordered the construction of this masterpiece in a flamboyant Gothic style, and work began in 1506. A one-of-a-kind monument in France, built in tribute to one man, Prince Philibert the Handsome.

Regional Specialties: 
Bresse PDO poultry, Bresse PDO butter and cream, Giraudet quenelles, Bleu de Bresse cheese, Comté PDO, Gaudriolles, Bugey PDO wines


Christian Prudhomme says: The sprinters will have needed to show real determination to get through the shock of the Tour’s stint in the Alps. They’ll be rewarded with a stage where the route avoids the hills and should facilitate their return front and centre. On the straight final kilometre, they’ll be able to get right up to maximum speed again.

The stage: A sprint stage! Time to check with sprinters are still in the race and cue the doomed breakaway with Asgreen, Campenaerts and, Abrahamsen.
It was pretty. Some stress injected on the day with Philipsen making a rather unsafe move as Eenkhoorn attempted an attack.  Under 75 kilometers to go and the gap was under a minute. Despite the incident, Eeknhoorn would eventually reach the breakaway and we'd have a quartet. 50 kilometers to go and their gap was just about a minute. Under 30 kilometers to go and down to 45 seconds.
It has been 8 days since the last sprint team and the sprinter's teams were determined. Under 10 kilometers and it was around 20 seconds. Under 3 kilometers and they were closing in. One kilometer and 6 seconds.
Asgreen! Wow, the peloton mis-timed the catch. So much for doomed.

The wine: Julien Guillot Macon-Cruzille Aragonite 2018
From a vendor: Carved from vineyards once owned by the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny and farmed organically by Julien Guillot's family since 1954, Clos Vignes du Maynes is one of the most distinctive growers in Burgundy. Aragonite comes from 40- to 80-year-old Chardonnay vines high on the slope, on thin soils of clay, crystallized limestone, and laced with other minerals. This wine is incredibly aromatic upon opening with aromas of golden pear, green apple, apricot, white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and bergamot; there is a hint of earthy heather honey and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite rich and luscious, in this warm low-yielding vintage, and much more tropical and salty than in years past. In fact, if tasted blind, I could see this being mistaken for a great Chardonnay from the Jura as it has fantastic acidity, and is beautifully textured, long, and mineral. On day two the aromas have softened a bit, and the palate has gained an added savory note that contributes to a still stunningly long finish. The 2018 Aragonite is not to be missed. 


The food: La Tarte Bressane, from the regional tourist site:
250g of flour
10cl of milk
2 eggs
80g of sugar
0,5 sachet of baker’s yeast
30g of fresh cream
10g of butter
1 pinch of salt

In a bowl, mix the yeast into warm milk. Set aside for 5 min.
Beat the eggs with half the amount of sugar.
Place the flour into a mixing bowl and create a ‘well’ in the middle, then add the eggs/sugar mixture and a pinch of salt. Knead the mixture and then add the milk little by little. When the dough is smooth, carry on kneading it on a work surface, making sure to incorporate air into the dough.
Put the dough in the mixing bowl and cover it with a clean tea towel, leaving the dough to rise for 1 hour (it should rise to triple the volume).
Grease a baking tray and spread the dough using the palm of your hand to form a sort of galette. Cover with a tea towel and leave to rise for 45 min.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (thermostat 6/7). Cover the galette with creme fraiche and then dust with the rest of the sugar and bake for 15 to 20 min. Leave to cool slightly on an oven rack before tasting.


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