Wednesday, July 5, 2023

Wine and Food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 5: Pau to Laruns

Where are we? Still in the Pyrenees

PauFrom the tourist website:
In the nineteenth, Pau is a prestigious resort. From Russia to Brazil, city, resort winter and summer tourist center, is the fashionable meeting of high society.The geographical location of the city, the magnificent views across the countryside from a hillside, the presence of native castle of Henry IV, all combine to make the city the gateway to the Pyrenees. Gateway to the benefits of spas, the grandeur of its mountain scenery is celebrated by the romantic fashion of the "trip to the Pyrenees". Thus, at an early stage in the history of the spa and health resort  Pau began selling in the early nineteenth century an intangible product, which all have and yet belongs to no one: the air!
From the years 1830-1840, the history of the city then takes a unexpected turn marked with the seal of the development of global tourism . The success further increases from 1842, when a Scottish doctor, Dr. Taylor Alexander, based in Pau recovering, began to show his countrymen that the local climate can have beneficial properties in the treatment of tuberculosis. It now becomes fashionable to spend the winter at Pau for his health care there ... or just show it! This period is commonly referred to as "English Town". 

Regional Specialtiesgarbure, poule au pot, foie gras, magret and other dishes derived from duck and goose, honey, coucougnettes du Vert Galant (roasted almonds coated with dark chocolate and raspberry marzipan), Verdier chocolates, Francis Miot jams, the "Russe" (almond cake and praline cream), ossau-iraty (cheese), wines (Jurançon, Madiran, Pacherenc).

Laruns Francethisway tells me that: Laruns is situated in a lovely setting the mountains of the National Park of the Pyrenees, 35 km south of Pau, in the Pyrénées Atlantiques department, with easy access to some of the finest scenery to be found in the Pyrenees.
Laruns village: The village itself contains some good examples of the typical Pyreneean architecture, as well as the 16th century village Church of Saint-Pierre and some houses with attractively designed lintels above the doors, also a large marble fountain in the main square. Although there are no great sites to detain you for long it is a pleasant town to explore.
Local events in Laruns: The weekly market in Laruns is held on a Saturday morning, and on Thursday evenings during the summer. On the 15th August each year there is a traditional dance, in costume, held in the village, and there is an important regional cheese fair held here the first Sunday in October by the local cheese producers.
Le Tour has an interesting tourist site: In the heart of the small village of Aste-Béon, at the foot of the Ossau nature reserve, the vulture cliff invites you to discover the great Pyrenean birds of prey and the life of the shepherds. Two species of vultures are present in the Ossau valley, the griffon vulture and the Egyptian vulture. They can be observed live thanks to cameras placed on the cliff, through a guided tour or in a museum space dedicated to them. 

Regional Specialtiessuckling lamb, garbure, Ossau cheese


Christian Prudhomme saysThere’s still time for questions going into the first rendezvous in the mountains. The climbs of the Col de Soudet and Col de Marie Blanque will provide some answers about the form of the contenders for the title, but the terrain isn’t really suitable for big attacks. That said...

The stage: Time to climb, including the first hc climb of the race. Today there were many riders eager to be in the break and it was a large group with some quality riders. Sich quality that Wout van Aert was virtual yellow halfway through the stage.84 kilometers to go and van Aert and Campenaerts had a small gap over a much larger chasing group with the peloton more than 2 minutes back.
Up front the two groups merged, and with under 80 kilometers to go, the gap was around 3 minutes. The group would not stay together, with riders disappearing into the fog and Gall in the lead. The really winner so far on the stage so far had been Hindley, who was looking to be gaining significant time on the gc rivals behind.
In that front group: Benoot (Jumbo-Visma), Van Aert (Jumbo-Visma), Fraile (Ineos), Martínez (Ineos), Madouas (Groupama), Uran (EF), Chaves (EF), Alaphilippe (Soudal-QuickStep), Haig (Bahrain Victorious), Hindley (Bora), Buchmann (Bora), Ciccone (Lidl), Berthet (AG2), Gall (AG2R), Jorgenson (Movistar), Muhlberger (Movistar), Neilands (Israel-Premier Tech).
Under 40 kilometers to go and it was Neiland and the front followed by van Aert and Alaphilippe. The peloton was 3:29 behind, with the larger break group in between.
The front 3 would come together but would eventually be passed by a much smaller group of the breakaway riders.
Under 20 kilometers to go and there were many small groups on the road with Hindley at the front. 
Wow, after the favorites group was down to Vingegaard, Pogacar and Kuss, Vingegaard took off, looking like he would take significant time. Indeed, it looked to be about a minute, with times continuing to fluctuate.
Hindley with the stage win. Vingegaard, with company, just over 30 seconds down.B Behind, Pogacar's group another minute down.

New gc:



The wine: 
Camin Larredya La Part Davan Jurancon Sec 2020

Chambers Street tells me that Camin Larredya by Jean -Marc Grussaute comes from a small vineyard in Chapelle de Rousse area of Jurançon, in the Pyrenees where the climate is mild, southern with Atlantic influence. The vineyard situated in the Chapelle Rousse area of Jurançon owned by Jean-Marc and his mother is organic. This south-facing vineyard with a view of the peaks in the Pyrenees is also Demeter certified Biodynamic. Camin Larredya Jurancon Sec La Part Devant is composed of 50% Gros Manseng, 35% Petit Manseng and 15% Petit Courbu. It is fermented in wood (2500 L foudres plus some 225 L barrels) The wine is then matured ‘sur lie’ for six months. This pale yellow-gold wine has pronounced aromas of flowers, exotic fruits, fresh grass, spices and herbs. There is an interesting interplay between the fruit character and umami, with acidity giving the wine a firm assertiveness allowing it to be paired with rich food: cassoulet, roasted goose, terrine, to lobster. OR, simply with goat cheese. Mariko Kobayashi


The food: Garbure
Le Tour says: The garbure This is the traditional soup in Bigorre. Made from cabbage and beans, it is simmered with confit or "camayou", a local ham bone. You can find it in many restaurants in the area and especially at the Auberge de l'Arrioutou, the Hautacam restaurant which has made it a speciality.
At the beginning of June, you should not miss the Confrérie de la Garbure in Argelès-Gazost, the traditional celebration of the typical Bigorre dish: mass led by the Ariélès Singers, parade of the brotherhoods of the south-west, inductions, market and garbure meal.
food52 has a recipe

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