Friday, July 21, 2023

Wine and food of the Tour de France 2023 Stage 19: Moirans en Montagne to Poligny

Where are we? In the Jura

Moirans en Montagne: The local tourist site tells me that Moirans-en-Montagne and its surroundings are above all a paradise for all lovers of nature and outdoor activities: you can cross its via ferrata and admire Lake Vouglans from the cliff under the Regardoir or discover the incredible biodiversity and the birds of its immense forest.
Want to rest? Vouglans lake is ideal for fishing on the Moirantine Gaul course, as well as for swimming and lazing on the Mercantine beach, which also has a port.
The Tourist Office, located near the Toy Museum, will advise you according to your wishes. There is a wide choice of walks and hikes for all levels and all ages, including fun circuits (The 7 Tales in walks) for families with children. 
On the heritage side, do not hesitate to visit the church, typical of Comtois flamboyant Gothic and to discover the history of the town, rich in a craft and industrial past still clearly visible. Finally, the sanctuary of Villards d'Héria, a few kilometers from Moirans, will immerse you in the Gallo-Roman era thanks to the preserved remains of this exceptional site (with fun trail and games booklet for children).
Regional Specialties: woodturning, toys, Comté dishes and Jura wines 

Poligny: The local tourist site tells me that The history of Poligny dates back to Roman times. Two superb mosaics known as "les Chambrettes du roi", found on the edge of the National 5, very close to the city in the 18th century, bear witness to this. These mosaics, which have now disappeared, were very probably found in a large Gallo-Roman city.
But it is also assumed that there were inhabitants in Poligny long before the Roman conquest, since this region was part of Sequania in Celtic times. This presence of inhabitants on the territory of Poligny is attested by bronze objects found in the cave of Roncevaux and in the tumulus of the forest of Moidons. There are also other remains, including a rock, a druidic monument also called "Pierre qui Vire". 
According to legend, once upon a time, a mischievous giant was chasing a shepherdess and when he was about to catch up with her, the "Gods" intervened and turned him to stone. Since this adventure, this giant has the right to move on itself once every hundred years, hence the name "Pierre qui Vire".
Anyway, the name of Poligny (Polemniacum) appears for the first time in 870, in the Treaty of Meerssen, which divides Lotharingia (to which Poligny belonged since 843) between Louis the Germanic and Charles the Bald. Poligny, like the whole region, is attributed to Louis le Germanique. After having belonged for a few years to the King of France Charles V, Poligny passed under the domination of the Counts of Burgundy, then of the House of Austria, of that of Spain to belong after many bloody wars to the kingdom of France definitively in 1674, after the Treaty of Nijmegen.

Regional Specialties: the world capital of Comté. Jura wines (yellow wine)



Christian Prudhomme says
: The stage meanders between the numerous lakes of the Jura, but avoids climbing to the department’s summits. The Côte d’Ivory, located around 30 kilometres from the finish line, won’t prevent the sprinters from taking advantage of a gigantic launch-pad: the final straight is a touch more than eight kilometres long.

The stage: Not unexpectedly, it was another day with a fight to get into the break. Eventually, there were 9 at the front: 
Alaphilippe, Barguil, Haig, Politt, Pedersen, Zimmermann, Campenaerts, Benoot and Trentin. Broken chain for Politt and he would wait a long time for help. Meanwhile, the peloton continued to chase and seemed very much to want to bring the break back. Jumping from the peloton, riders, or really, more of a split in the group, hoping to reach the break. Indeed we would end up with 37 in front.
With 55km to go  Campenaerts and Clarke were in the lead 25'' before the larger breakaway group and 2'30'' ahead of the peloton.
Yikes. Cramps for Clarke and Campaenarts would be solo in the front, but quicjly caught and passed by Asgreen, O'Connor and Mohoric. With 12 kilometers to go, Laporte, Trentin, Pidcock, Philipsen, Van der Poel, Mezgec, Zimmermann, Bettiol, Pedersen were 20'' behind the leading trio.
It looked like the trio would make it, as their gap grew.
Wow. Almost a photo finish between Asgreen and Mohoric.
Mohoric!



The wine
Montbourgeau L'Etoile Chardonnay 2018
From Christy: Nicole's vines are in the Etoile region of the Jura, south of the more well-known (to the extent that anything in the Jura is well-known outside of certain wine geek circles). The soil here is different – the “star” in the region refers to the little star-shaped fossilized shells that liter the soil – and it shows in the wines, which are more elegant, almost saline/salty. These are some of my favorite wines from the region. And no, it has nothing to do with the fact that there's a woman helming the house! The chardonnay is a fabulous introduction to the twangy, oxidative style of the region. Whip up something cream-based (throw in some morels and chicken for extra oomph) or grab a hunk of comte cheese and prepare to be amazed by a rare perfect wine and food pairing. NOTE: If you haven’t had white wines from this region before, don’t chill them too much. They show best at just a bit below room temperate. And if you get a whiff of fino sherry-like twang (or slightly bruisy apples) don’t panic – this is how the wine is supposed to taste! And bonus – the wines are very stable once open. They’ll last for days, even weeks, or even longer if you pop them in the fridge!


The foodComte cheese
From a regional site:
For more than ten centuries, villagers of Jura Massif, Eastern France have lovingly crafted a unique and delicious cheese: Comté. This stunning region of mountains stretches between Jura and Doubs in the Franche-Comté region, and Ain in the Rhones-Alpes region, and is home to over 3,000 family farms dedicated to producing the highest quality of raw milk that is required to create Comté cheese.
Comté cows are authorised exclusively from the Montbéliarde and French Simmental breeds. With each cow given a whole hectare of pasture land in the summer months, they are free to feed on a delicious natural grass diet.
Due to its distinctive nature, cultural value and economic importance for the region, Comté was deservedly granted Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status in 1958. 
The regional tourist site has an appealing recipe for a savory Comte cake
150 g grated Comté cheese
150 g thick white ham
50 g black olives 100 g
butter
200 g flour
3 eggs
10 cl milk
1 sachet of yeast
Salt, pepper
Preheat the oven to 210°C (th. 7). Lightly butter and flour a cake tin; book cool.
In a bowl, vigorously mix the flour, baking powder, eggs, melted butter and milk. Cut the ham into small cubes and pour them into the salad bowl with the grated Comté cheese.
Pour the mixture into the cake tin and bake for 10 minutes at 210°C, then 20 minutes at 180°C.

 

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