Thursday, May 18, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 12: Bra to Rivoli

Where are we? Spending the day in Piedmont

Bra: The local tourism site tells me that The town of Bra lies among Roero Hills and it is well known because of its culture, history and gastronomy specialties. Its origins go back to the Neolithic, but its history is linked to the Roman Empire and then to the Savoy dynasty, that left visible marks on the territory. Walking through the town it is possible to admire some masterpieces of the Baroque style, such as the rounded façade of the Town Hall and the Church of Santa Chiara, the museum of natural history, the museum of archeology and art and the Toy Museum. On the top of the hill, “La Zizzola” is now the symbol of the town as it hosts a multimedia museum, named the “House of Braidesi”. Bra is also famous for the gastronomy specialties and the several wines produced in the area, known all over the world. The main products are the “Salsiccia di Bra”, the famous veal meat sausage, the Bra Cheese which is celebrated in the famous Cheese Festival, the vegetables from the gardens of Bra and the famous sandwich Mac ‘d Bra, that hold all the tastes of the region in a single bite.

In recent years Bra has become one of the most representative towns in Roero and a real tourist destination thanks to many important events such as Cheese Festival, the Children’s Book Festival and the Easter Fair.


Regional Specialties: Bra is also considered a land of good food and excellent wines known and appreciated even beyond national borders. First of all the “Salsiccia di Bra, a peculiar type of veal sausage to be eaten raw and the only one authorized directly by the House of Savoy. The other well-known product is cheese, which is celebrated every two years with the International Festival “Cheese –  le forme del latte” T
he great attention to the quality of life and sustainable mobility and many activities to promote and protect local trade and local craftsmanship has led Bra to be one of the four Italian municipalities that founded the CittàSlow movement. A commitment which is testified by the numerous national awards received during the years, including “Spiga Verde” and the certification of Free Waste Municipality by Legambiente.

Rivoli: The Giro tells me that Rivoli is 13 kilometers away from Turin and 102 kilometers from French borders, and it’s located at the mouth of Susa valley. Today, Rivoli has approximately 48,000 inhabitants. Thanks to its ancient historical origins, Rivoli is one of the most distinctive art cities of Piedmont. Corso Francia, a spectacular road designed in the XIV Century, connects Rivoli with Turin and is one of the main roards of Turin itself. Corso Francia, with a total length of 11.75 km, is the longest straight roads of Europe. Rivoli is a place of history, and its buildings from the various Centuries are proof of this, the most distinguishing of which is the Castello di Rivoli (the Castle), which has been one of the oldest residences of Savoy family. The Castello is the symbol of the city and hosts one of the world’s most appreciated contemporary art museums.

Regional Specialties:  Rivolotto is the name of a biscuit, the fruit of the art of a group of confectioners and bakers from Rivoli. Rivolotto has been recognized with the “De.Co.” (Denominazione Comunale, an important recognition given to typical products historically linked to a place to preserve their genuineness and territoriality. The biscuit is unique in design, shape and taste and is the ambassador of the local masters of taste at institutional events. It was one of Piedmont’s products of excellence at the ATP Tennis Finals in Turin.
Rivoli is home to Aziende Agricole (“Farms”) Scaglia, Massola and Comba, breeding cattle of the Piedmontese breed, winners of numerous recognitions and awards. Azienda Agricola Scaglia proposes a simple yet revolutionary idea of slow-fast food at zero km, which aims at valorising the short supply chain and the excellence of the territory. A new food concept that revolves around using only the meat processed at the farm, obtained from animals reared in the area.
‘La Maggiorana’ is the first school of culinary art in Piedmont, established in 1973 by Elena Maggiora together with her sister Erica, who was recognized at the young age of 19 years as the youngest Cordon Bleu d’Italia and pupil of the most illustrious experts of international haute cuisine, from Gualtiero Marchesi to Paul Bocause. Courses at La Maggiorana explore Italian traditional recipes as well as re-elaborations and creations of Erika Maggiora.

 
The stage:On a day that seemed designed for it, a break.  It started out as a large group (30-ish), but eventually, there were four at the front with other groups spread out along the road.
While they race, let's look at some pretty images: At the front, Tonelli was struggling. It looked like the stage would be contested by the three remaining at the front.
With more riders dropping out of the race today, it is worth a look at this list. 
At the front, Berwick was yo-yoing. Could he hang on to contest the stage? Unclear.
But with a lot of time to play with, they were starting to play around and test each other.
Denz! Nice work by him. Behind that trio, the remaining riders from the early break would trickle across the line.


The wine: 001 Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino "Vigna dei Dardi" Barolo Riserva

From 2015 

From the importer:  If you are not yet familiar with brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino of Monforte d’Alba, here is a great opportunity to meet these Barolo veterans. Natives of Piemonte, they boast extensive experience crafting old-school, terroir-driven Nebbiolo. Alessandro managed winemaking for twenty years at the esteemed Bartolo Mascarello estate, before ultimately teaming up with his brother in the family cellars as the fratelli focused exclusively on their own production.
    The Fantino holdings in the steep Bussia vineyard of Monforte are crucial to this endeavor. They sustainably work old vines in the small Dardi sub-section, a perfectly exposed plot that gives rich, structured Barolo as good young as it is old. The traditionalist ways in the cellar, with spontaneous fermentations and an eschewal of new oak, only serve to highlight the impeccably farmed fruit from this time-tested site.

I say: Wow. Showing its age in the color. Rust notes in the red. Mature, but not old. Savory, spicy, really just a joy to drink. 

The food:  Bra Duro Starvecchio Cheese

Made in the Cuneo Province of Piedmont, this is the more aged Bra making it firm to hard in texture and more concentrated in its flavors of nuts, herbs and hay. 
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