Wednesday, May 10, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 5: Atripalda to Salerno

Where are we? Spending the day in Campania.

Atripalda: The Giro tells us that the town was founded by Sabatio, great-grandson of Noah, who named its first settlement Sabathia. In the 4th century AD, the Lombards bring innovations: Troppualdo obtains its independence from Avellino, trade bears important fruits, and Largo Mercato, the current Piazza Umberto I, will develop.

Regional Specialties:
Typical dishes: Lagane and Chickpeas,  Soffritto Irpino, Minestra Maritata, Pork potatoes and pupacchie,
Scarola m’buttunata, Turnips and Potatoes
Pepaino M’buttunato, Codfish Pertecaregna style
Typical products: Caciocavallo cheese, Primo sale, Homemade pasta (tagliatelle, ravioli) Olive oil, Pickled stuffed peppers


Salerno: Let's go to the sea. Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, Salerno has almost three thousand years of history and is at the centre of a paradise of tourist attractions known all over the world: the divine Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri, the Cilento and Alburni, the archaeological sites of Paestum and Pompeii, the villages of green Irpinia, the vineyards of Sannio, and the splendour of the Royal Palace of Caserta. 

Regional SpecialtiesA visit to Salerno amid ancient monuments and sun-drenched beaches, cultural and entertainment events, enchanting panoramas and charming streets becomes even more tasty with the rainbow of local food and wine proposals inspired by a tantalizing fusion of land and sea. Restaurants, trattorias, kiosks offer an uninterrupted symphony of flavours all to be savoured. The ‘cuoppo’ is the favourite street food of visitors; a cartoccio full of breaded fried food: fish and vegetables galore. Don’t miss a taste of spaghetti “al dente” (cooked just right) with seafood, a sandwich with stuffed spleen typical of the patron saint’s day, a bunch of sanginella grapes from the Giovi hills, and aubergine parmigiana. There is never a shortage of freshly fried anchovies from the Gulf of Salerno, delicious buffalo mozzarella from the Piana del Sele, while the red of the San Marzano tomato brightens up first courses, summer salads or His Majesty the pizza. Sfogliatelle Santa Rosa, lemon delicacies, a typical strawberry cake, a slice of tasty annurca apple, calzoni with chestnuts, traditional nougat and sweets with Giffoni round hazelnuts, ice cream and lemon amalfitano “sfusato” slushies are the irresistible temptations for dessert. And to toast, there is no shortage of wines from the hills surrounding the city in an breathtaking embrace.



The stage: Very wet roads and a crash caused by a loose dog for Remco. Not a good way to start the day, but he would get back on his bike and continue riding.
The word of the day was clearly rain and lots of it. Miserable day for a 171 kilometer ride.
The break was small and with a possible sprint on tap, they never got a very large gap. Under 70 kilometers to go, the gap was around 1 minute.  A very wet and foggy descent was taken very gingerly by both the break and the peloton. With 39 kilometers to go, the gap was 1:30. Under 30 kilometers to go and it was down to 1 minute as the approached the southernmost point in this year's Giro. Out solo in front was Zoccarato. It was a brave ride from him, as he held on longer than one might have expected. Crash just around the 7 kilometer point, that would delay some riders.
Just as they all came back together, another crash, including Remco. That was within the 3 kilometer point, so the riders down would be credited the same time as the main bunch. Yikes, another crash at the line for Cavendish and others.
Kaden Groves with the stage win. 



The wine
 Montevetrano Core Campania IGT 2012
A repost from 2015
From the importer
Proprietress Silvia Imparato indulged in wine as a hobby until she decided to rebuild her family’s vineyards in Montevetrano, in the oft-underestimated region of Campania. She employed the skills of highly regarded winemaker Riccardo Cotarella and they have created an outstanding icon wine they decided to name Montevetrano. 
Montevetrano is a small zone in the hills near the commune of San Cipriano Picentino, not far from Salerno. Mountains surround the property, with the vineyards situated on gentle slopes facing south by southwest. The heart of the estate is a beautiful, ancient villa. In the first years of production the basement of the villa also served as the cellar. Now the wine is made and stored in a new modern cellar, built in 2000. Silvia and her friends use the old cellar for private vintages. Within a very short period of time her work with Cotarella has produced an absolute jewel in this location.

Core (pronounced Kor-Ay) is local dialect for “heart”, and the label (once again designed by the daughter of proprietress Silvia Imparato) evokes the love of life, and wine that is the spirit of Montevetrano.  Core is sourced from particular experimental Aglianico plots on the estate in San Cipriano and also from outside growers in the classical Benevento area who are working closely with Riccardo Cotarella. 

I say:  Dark fruits, licorice and earth. 
More on the wines of the region here, from the New York Times. 

The food:  Minestra Maritata

ingredients
500g 'scarola'
500g chicory
300g fennel
celery
50g grated pecorino cheese
100g pancetta or bacon
1 litre of stock

Making it
Clean the vegetables well and cut into small pieces before boiling each one in separate pans of just enough salty water. When done, drain well and place all the vegetables together in a bowl. Chop the bacon and gently fry it in olive oil. When done add it to the stock, meat or vegetable, and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat for 10 mins after which add it to the boiled vegetables and cook for a further 20 mins. Serve with a sprinkling of cheese and a dose of olive oil and black pepper

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