Sunday, May 14, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 9: Savignano sul Rubicone to Cesena

Where are we? Spending the day in Emilia Romagna.

Savignano sul Rubicone: The regional tourism site tells me that The center of this village is about 13 km from the sea, halfway between the coast and the hills of the Romagna hinterland, holding the Italian record of coastal municipality least touched by the sea (only the hamlet Savignano a mare faces the Adriatic in fact).
The Roman bridge over the Rubicon is the most famous monument of the city of which it is the symbol itself. The exact date of construction is not known: it was defined "consular" by some historians, while according to others it should be placed at the time of Octavian Augustus.  Famous throughout the world for the historic passage of Julius Caesar, who pronounced the famous phrase "Alea Iacta Est" (The die is cast), and marched on Rome.

Regional Specialties: (One senses that the Giro content manager may be from this area): Savignano sul Rubicone fears no competition at table, especially for two prestigious products that alone are worth a visit: wine and cheese. The first combines the pleasure of taste with the beauty of the landscape along the Savignano – Sogliano road, the legendary Nove Colli bike route, which then continues up to the hills offering amazing views over the Adriatic sea and the Apennines. Along the road on the Ribano hill a unique castle, bearing the same name of the place, stands out on the horizon. This fortified building of the medieval age, surrounded by ancient vineyards and rich olive trees, is home to the Spaletti Colonna di Paliano Winery, which continues a thousand year old tradition of grape and wine production in this area. As early as the 16th Century the wines of Ribano refreshed the Classensi Monks holidaying at the castle. Since then the art of making good wines has been handed down within the Spalletti Colonna di Paliano noble family and has remained unchanged until today. Prince Giovanni Colonna di Paliano is the current owner of the castle. He expanded the vineyard cultivations and in 2005 a new high tech wine cellar has been inaugurated where extraordinary wines are produced. The most popular among them are Sangiovese, Albana, Bombino Bianco, Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot. These fine wines can be purchased in the castle shop or tasted on site during a visit to the castle and the ancient and modern cellars.
The second most famous delicacy of Savignano is the soft cheese “Squacquerone” DOP, produced by the dairy Caseificio Pascoli. Founded in 1964 thanks to Cav. Michelino Raduano along the banks of the historic river crossed by Julius Caesar, this cheese factory has been run by expert cheesemaker Marinella Conti for over thirty years. In addition to the many fine cheeses, valorised and rediscovered over the years thanks to research and various studies, the production includes the extraordinary “Squacquerone of Romagna” DOP and the “Fossa” DOP cheeses matured in the medieval, cone-shaped pits of this area. The farm shop is open to the public. It is a must to taste these local cheeses together with “piadina romagnola”, which is a flat, round bread to be found at the numerous stalls spread around the town and open all day long, because “piadina romagnola” can be enjoyed at any time, even at breakfast with plenty of Nutella. The only dilemma for those who decide to stop over in this delightful land between the north and the south of Italy is whether to choose “piadina sfogliata” in the Rimini style or “piadina alta” in the Cesena style. Either way it will be a tasty home-made, artisanal product nowhere else to be found.

Cesena: The regional tourism site tells me that: Between the Romagna Apennines and the sea, about 15 km from the Adriatic Riviera of Rimini and about 30 km from Ravenna, is Cesena, a beautiful Malatestian town.
One of the most important artistic points of interest in Romagna, Cesena is a must for good food and wine lovers. The lordship of the Malatesta family brought Cesena to the peak of its culture and history, with some architectural and artistic treasures that can still be visited today.
Cesena’s important international position in the agri-food sector and its culinary traditions place the town among the most important destinations of the Romagna hinterland.

Regional SpecialtiesCesena, thanks to its rich Romagna traditions, has plenty to offer to those who are looking to dip in traditional dishes. When, between a cultural visit and a walk in the center, it comes time to go to the table, you can choose a typical Romagna restaurant, a bistro, an osteria or try street food. In fact, the International Street Food Festival was born here in 2000, becoming a periodic event that is always highly anticipated and attended. And street food of excellence is the piadina romagnola, called la pida’ in dialect. It is a kind of disc of unleavened bread, often eaten in the characteristic kiosks, and accompanied by different fillings such as squacquerone (typical fresh and creamy cheese) and rocket salad, or by local cold cuts.
The crescione, on the other hand, is an elaboration of the piadina folded in half and stuffed before cooking. The herb one is the most common, but there are many types. The piadina must be kneaded strictly by hand and rolled out with a rolling pin. It is cooked on the testo (‘teggia’ in dialect), which is a red-hot terracotta or cast-iron griddle. But it is not enough to put together the right ingredients to produce an excellent piadina: also very important is the thickness, which often reveals the precise area of production. In Cesena the piadina is medium thick while, for example, in the Rimini area it is thinner.
From piadina to pasta dishes: a continuous trundle of goodness! Not everyone knows that there is no term “pasta” in the Romagnolo dialect: the homemade pasta dishes of Romagna cuisine, whether in broth or dry, and by extension all first courses, are called mnestra (“soup”). Mnestra sòta (dry) and “mnestra int e’ brod (in broth). Unlike other parts of Italy where “minestra” is exclusively a liquid dish.
Traditional soups in Cesena include those made with egg pasta sheets (tagliatelle, lasagna, passatelli asciutti or in broth, tagliolini, maltagliati), those with eggless pasta sheets (strozzapreti, pappardelle in broth), and stuffed pasta such as cappelletti (traditionally, the family meets on Christmas Eve to prepare them for the holidays) and tortelli.
Cesena’s fruits and vegetables, then, are a national pride. Crops include peaches, apricots, plums, Romagna strawberries, kiwis, apples, pears, and several distinctive varieties of cherries. Prominent among vegetables are potatoes, green beans, peas, lettuces, chicory, turnips, tomatoes, giant Romagna thistles, and violet Romagna artichokes.


The stage:  A 35 kilometer time trial. One would expect a good day for Remco, but how good? 
The Giro stage video is worth a look: Rain to start the day, but it was expected to dry off before the GC riders set off.
Early in the hot seat was Mollema with 42:23. Replacing him would be Bruno Armirail would be 41:32. He would almost immediately be replaced by Stefan Kung with 41:28. 
Yikes, at the early time checks, Roglic was not on a good day and Remco was. That said, Remco looked to be on the best time of the day at the early time check. On a good day, apparently, the two Ineos riders: Geoghegan Hart and Thomas. 
Indeed Geoghegan Hart was next in the hot seat, by 2 seconds.
Right behind him, Thomas, who took the lead by 1 second. Yay G!
Into first by 1 second, Remco. He would take the stage win and the pink jersey back.




The WineLambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Frizzante Secco, Fattoria Moretto
From 2021
Back to Kermit Lynch for this great quote: “Moretto is to Lambrusco what Tempier and Terrebrune are to rosé. It reminds me of the best reds of Bandol and Tuscany, with herbs like thyme, and a sort of dusty mineral quality, like you find in some of the top Bordeaux and Tuscan wines.”
Conveniently, the New York Times published an article last week focused on Lambrusco. I admit to not trying the Lambrusco spritz with this bottle, but maybe someday? It does sound refreshing. 


For the dough
  • 1 pound all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 3 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 3/4 cup water
For filling
  • Prosciutto di Parma
  • Squacquerone, or another fresh, soft cheese (such as stracchino cheese or cottage cheese)
  • arugula

Preparation:

Piadina is traditionally made with pork fat. Our piadina is a lighter version made with extra-virgin olive oil.
Combine flour, salt, and baking powder in a bowl, then mix in oil and water.
Knead dough for about 10 minutes until smooth in consistency.
Cover dough in plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for an hour.

Note: If the dough is being prepared in advance, you can keep the prepared dough in the refrigerator.
Lightly flour the countertop and roll out the dough with a rolling pin until very thin, around a tenth of an inch.
Cut out 7-12 inch circles and poke holes in it with a fork.

Cook in a non-stick pan over medium heat without added fat for 1-2 minutes each side.
Serve warm, either alone or as part of a sandwich.

Piadinas are usually stuffed with salted and savoury ingredients. The most famous in Italy is with Prosciutto di Parma and squacquerone, a fresh, soft cheese. If unavailable, squacquerone can be replaced with stracchino cheese or even cottage cheese. The cheese and prosciutto are placed on the piadina with greens which is then folded up and served.
Buon appetito!

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