Thursday, May 25, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 18: Oderzo to Val di Zoldo

Where are we? In the Veneto.

Oderzo: The Veneto tourism site tells me that among the beautiful medieval and renaissance architecture of the ancient town of Treviso, Oderzo reveals fragments of the glory of Opitergium, the renowned Roman Municipality.
The traces of the glorious past make up one of the oldest archaeological museums of Italy that was founded in 1876 and found in the open barn of Palazzo Foscolo. Here finds from pre-Roman, Roman and Late Antique ages can be found. The sixteenth-century building is also home to the Modern and Contemporary Art Gallery and Picture Gallery named after Alberto Martini, an artist from Oderzo.
The allure of discovering the ancient origins of Oderzo does not end here. There are four archeological sites that are breath-taking (guides that are licensed by the Archaeological Superintendence of Veneto need to be booked for these tours).
These are the areas of the Roman Forum, with its forensic remains and a large "domus" and Via dei Mosaici, which takes its name from the ancient mosaic floor of some houses. Between Piazza Grande and Piazza Castello there is a tunnel through which tourists can see the remains of one of the two main axes of the city and a pavement shown on the wall.
However, Oderzo has many other surprises, such as the Duomo of San Giovanni Battista and the ancient Loggia Comunale. Another surprise is Piazza Grande that is among the most beautiful in the Veneto Region because of its unique shape. Each year this Piazza hosts the famous "Opera in Piazza" Festival that attracts artists and fans from across Europe.

Regional Specialties: Le Rose del Monticano is a kind of “radicchio” typical of the North-East and bleached using the classic method of Treviso. At the farm Ca’ Bosco in Fratta (Oderzo), they grow it. This vegetable has been cultivated since the 15th century. The farm also produces traditional local sausages and salamis such as “soppressa veneta”, “salame punta di coltello”, “carrè” and donkey salami. These are specialties for taste experts. In fact in the taverns of the historic center and in the establishments overlooking our Monticano river (a waterway of authentic beauty), you can enjoy a good aperitif tipycal of Oderzo enriched with sliced meats and an excellent wine “Incrocio Manzoni” or a full-bodied Raboso.
Cultivated since Roman times, another typical product of this area is asparagus, rich in fiber and with a strong flavor. It is presented in the “green” or “white” version, depending on its more or less delicate texture. Osteria Al Bersagliere, which fully represents the food and wine tradition of the Veneto region, has specifically created for the “Giro d’Italia” leg in Oderzo, “Gnocchetti al rosa di barbabietola con asparagi verdi” (gnocchi with red beet and green asparagus), perfect with “Tai” a white wine.
The Gattolè restaurant, which overlooks the Monticano River (a magnificent river that runs through the city of Oderzo) always features asparagus as its protagonist by making a classic recipe from the Veneto tradition: eggs and asparagus. Considered a complete and nourishing dish, it is served with a glass of ” Prosecco DOCG.o.” (typical white and sparkling wine).
In the heart of Oderzo, inside the medieval castle and ancient prisons, you can find the starred restaurant Gellius. Its ancient stones from the 11th century B.C. tell the story of an ancient city.  Inside, the remains of a patrician-Roman dwelling, now an archaeological area, dominate the ambiance. On the occasion of the “Giro d’Italia” leg, Chef Alessandro Breda presents traditional and innovative dishes full of flavor: “Baccalà cotto e crudo” (a particular codfish cooked and row), “crema di patate affumicate” (a cream of smoked potatoes), “pil pil di Prosecco” (a spanish codfish with Prosecco wine), “cenere di verdure” (particular cooked vegetables).

Val di Zoldo: The local site suggests a hike Val di Zoldo , in the heart of the Dolomites, is an ideal summer destination for hikers and mountaineers. The groups of Pelmo, Civetta, Bosconero, Mezzodì and San Sebastiano offer enthusiasts itineraries for all tastes, in a unique environment. On the site you will find reports of medium difficulty routes, dedicated to those who want to walk some of the most popular trails and already have a fair amount of training.
Going up to the Coldai lake and to the refuge of the same name, the crossing of the Civetta and Mondeval , Sora al Sas , the Bosconero refuge , and many other itineraries to try await you! 
Up there, the generous nature of the Dolomites will enliven the excursion with unexpected unexpected events: the alarm whistle of the marmot, the trembling of the roe deer, the sight of the solitary and shy chamois. The luckiest ones, looking up at the sky, will also be able to admire the refined flight of the eagle, the sovereign guardian of the Dolomite peaks, which has chosen this refuge here.


Regional Specialities:  Val di Zoldo is dotted with restaurants, the traditional “malghe” or “rifugi”, where you can taste the typical dishes and cuisine of the Dolomites, or the ice cream and pastry shops where you can eat artisanal ice cream and delicacies.
I CASUNZIEI: The casonziei, or casunziei in some local dialects, are typical staffed dumplings, very common in many cuisines of the Dolomiti Bellunesi. A soft dough, carefully handmade filled with vegetables or other ingredients, such as ricotta and spinach, beet, or with pumpkin and cinnamon and served with beurre fondu, as in the original recipe of Val di Zoldo.
COTTAGE CHEESE: A break in a typical cottage, the so called “malga”, a moment of relaxation and a mixed cheese platter. A simple circumstance can turn into a real surprise, revealing the scents and tastes of the authentic mountain, still loyal to its nature. Every sample reminds of flowery meadows, where the cows and goats enjoy the grazing. When being in Val di Zoldo as visitors, this is a must!
DOLOMITI BELLUNESI HONEY PDO AND SAFFRON: In Val di Zoldo, there are many farms dedicated to the cultivation of Earth products: 0 km beans and potatoes, but also saffron, the so called “red gold”. Some take advantage of the rich biodiversity and of the peculiar flora of the Dolomiti Bellunesi to produce the Dolomiti Bellunesi Honey, recognised with the PDO label. Besides being a genuine and completely natural products it has also special therapeutical properties.
THE ARTISANAL ICE CREAM OF VAL DI ZOLDO: The protagonist of the gastronomic tradition of Val di Zoldo is unquestionably the artisanal ice cream. Still nowadays, the real origins of ice cream and the reason why it influenced the history of many dolomitic valleys are a mystery. What’s sure is the fact that Zoldo’s ice cream makers, worldwide known, spread the art of ice cream all over Europe and South America with an innate passion. This is a long story of success, built from one generation to the other since the end of the 19th century, when the great emigration from Italy to the northern Europe took place. There is nothing as natural and healthy as the artisan variety, made with carefully selected, fresh, genuine ingredients such as cocoa, vanilla pods, milk, eggs, sugar and fresh fruit. Close attention to the quality of the raw materials, teamed with an ability to dose the ingredients carefully and to stick to traditional ice cream making times and methods is able to turn a simple food into a delight for the palate. If you are in Val di Zoldo do not forget to stop by an ice cream shop for a delicious break. Plus, if you’re lucky arriving in the right moment, you may have the chance to attend a demonstration by Zoldo’s ice cream makers, showing how ice cream was produced more than a century ago, using original tools and machineries.


The stage: Breakaway? Check. Pinot in search of dots? Also check? GC battle? Maybe. Tomorrow will be even more challenging, so we will see what today brings. Oh, and happy birthday Geraint Thomas. 
The gap to the break was dropping towards 4 minutes. It looked like the break would make it, but it was getting closer than they might like. Off to the final climb. This was going to be brutal, as the commentators stressed how it would grow narrow as well as very steep.
Also, since I have not said it yet this Giro, grupetto cam, please!
Up front, Pinot continued to press the tempo. Eight kilometers to go and he had only Zana with him, with Gee next on the road.  
Back in the GC group, Kuss to the front to set a tempo for Roglic. Thomas would follow with Dunbar. Almeida was in the next group on the road, not that far back.
Attack by Roglic. Thomas would follow. Kuss would join them.
Bobble on the way down for Vine and Almeida, but they would stay upright. Their group would make it almost back to Thomas and Roglic.
At the front, Zana on his home roads taking the stage over Pinot. 
Coming in together, Roglic and Thomas. Roglic back into second on GC.
A reminder that tomorrow should be a very difficult stage.





The wine: The wine:  Baron Widmann Vernatsch
From 2021 and still a favorite.
From Dig: A Baron with dirt underneath his fingernails, Andreas Widmann is a meticulous farmer and this lovely, light red is a DIG favorite. Pale in color, with notes of bramble berries, white pepper, and herbs. Savory, with great freshness and personality. Food versatile, too. In the summer we serve it chilled with grilled salmon. 

The food: Casunzie de Potatoes

INGREDIENTS  (4 people)
  • for the stuffing
  • 2 potatoes
  • 1 onion
  • 2 eggs
  • 40 g of fresh ricotta
  • 40 g of mascarpone
  • 40 g of Montasio DOP cheese. grated seasoned
  • Salt and Pepper To Taste
  • sheet of homemade egg pasta to obtain about ten casonziéi each
for the seasoning
  • 1 mashed potato
  • Garda DOP extra virgin olive oil.
  • 40 g of aged ricotta cheese or grated Provolone Valpadana DOP cheese
  • Salt and Pepper To Taste
PREPARATION
For the filling, the potatoes and the onion are cut very fine and browned in a little extra virgin olive oil. They are crushed and the resulting puree is mixed with fresh ricotta, mascarpone, grated Montasio and an egg yolk. Take the egg pasta, keep it soft, and obtain by impression, with the help of a glass, disks with a diameter of about eight cm; the filling is placed in the center and they are closed by folding them in half, compressing the edges well, first moistened with a brushstroke of egg yolk. The calzoncelli thus prepared are boiled for two or three minutes. They are drained and seasoned with a more liquid potato cream (a simple puree diluted with a little water and emulsified with extra virgin olive oil), which closely resembles the dough.

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