Monday, May 8, 2023

Giro 2023 Stage 3: Vasto - Melfi

Where are we? Heading further up the coast to Basilicata.

Vasto: The Giro tells us that Vasto is one of the most fascinating town of Abruzzo, on the Adriatic Sea with its characteristic gulf and protected by the Apennine peaks, beautiful in its uniqueness.
The coast of Vasto stretches for over 17 Km, with beaches of different types: from the fine and golden sand of Vasto Marina and Punta Penna, to that of pebbles and rocks of Mottagrossa and San Nicola. Every tourist can choose the most desired beach between coves and headlands and taste the seafood specialty on the trabocchi, the ancient wooden fishing machines positioned in the middle of the sea. You can enjoy the seascape by staying at the seafront of Vasto Marina, full of bathing establishments equipped with every comfort and admire the symbol of the city in the middle of the sea, the Bagnante’s monument.

Regional specialties: The cuisine of the Vasto area, from the coast to the hinterland, is renowned for its variety, thanks to the different traditions that have participated in its birth and growth. The shepherds’ cuisine mixed with that of the farmers and their mountain products characterized by simple dishes but, at the same time, tasty. Therefore, wide use of soups and minestre, sheepmeat, cheese and that extra flavor given by aromatic herbs.
A separate note should be made for the seafood cuisine, facilitated by a catch of great quality and variety and from the great heritage “of the earth” such as vegetables from  the nearby hills, and it is precisely from the meeting of these products that the main dish of the tables is born: fish soup Vastese style.

Melfi: Melfi is the third largest municipality in Basilicata in terms of population and size. It sits at 562 meters above sea level on the slopes of Mount Vulture. Its extended historic centre and city walls surrounds the Norman Swabian Castle, first built by the Normans, and then rebuilt by Frederick II. Finally, it was equipped with new towers by Charles I of Anjou and restored by the Caracciolos and Dorias. Massimo Pallottino (who was born in Melfi) National Archaeological Museum, is based in the Castle and it is one of the most significant and well-known in the south of Italy.

Regional Specialties
“Pancotto alla Melfitana”: it is prepared by mixing bread, potatoes, and boiled turnips in one saucepan to be finally topped with an oil, garlic, red pepper sauté.
“Cucinidd”: lamb cooked with bacon, sausage, tomatoes, cardoons, and eggs.
“Maccuarnar”: dialect name for “Maccoronara”, which is long, fresh pasta that is hand-made using a metal rolling pin.
“Calzoncelli“: a traditional Melfi dessert. The recipe has been passed down through generations: a cylindrical dough of two to three cm in diameter made of almonds, chocolate, and sugar is coated in a crumbly shortcrust pastry crust.


The stage: Can the pure sprinters hang on up the bump at the end of the stage or is it a day for a Michael Matthews type ride? We had 216 kilometers to find out.
Doomed breakaway? Of course. But they would get a lot of tv time for their sponsors. Inside 40 kilometers to go and the catch was imminent. Also, some of the sprinters were starting to lose ground. Some surprising names, some unexpected like Cort. 
The race had become very fast and intense. 36 kilometers to go and the gap was under 20 seconds. Sure enough, the catch happened almost immediately after that marker, as more and more riders dropped from the front. 
Attacking from the front, Pinot! Maybe in search of mountain points? Indeed, he would find himself on the podium as KOM in his final Giro. Dropped but eventually getting back, Pedersen, one of the favorites on the day.
With wet roads, it was a nervous descent and Evenepoel was staying very close to the front and win the intermediate sprint.
Michael Matthews! A very well deserved stage win after his team worked all day.



The wine: Gricos Aglianico Del Vulture 2008
A repost from 2013
From the importer:
Aglianico is the best known 'big red' grape in southern Italy, and there are two places where it grows particularly well, Taurasi in Campania and Monte Vulture in Basilicata. The areas are less than two hours from each other, both are volcanic in geology, and both produce magnificent red wines, amongst the most ageworthy in Italy (or anywhere else, for that matter). Grifalco is an excellent producer of Aglianico del Vulture owned by the Piccin family, who were originally wine producers in Tuscany but decided that southern Italy, Basilicata in particular, was more promising. I think they're right. Gricos is their everyday barbeque wine, made from young vines but nonetheless meaty and substantial. 
    I say: Balsamic, herbs,very dark fruit. Firm tannins on the finish. Without food I was not thrilled, but served with a meatloaf made with beef and Italian sausage, it really came alive. 


    The food:  Brodetto Vastese
    Recipe from Life in Abruzzo

    4 Scorpion Fish (or Rock Fish)
    4 Skate Wings
    4 Cod Fillets
    4 Red Mullet
    4 King Prawns
    1/2 Squid
    8 Mussels
    2 Chopped Cloves of Garlic
    200 ml Extra Vrgin Olive Oil
    1 Red Pepper
    250 g Cherry Tomatoes
    Fresh Chili according to taste

    INSTRUCTIONS
    Soak the mussels and clams in salty water and then wash and drain to ensure they are sand free.
    Wash clean and trim the fish leaving the heads intact.
    Wash and clean the squid and crustaceans and chop and  trim.
    Add olive oil to your pan and sauté your finely chopped garlic and chopped parsley.
    First lay the squid that you have cut into small pieces and cook at least 15 min
    Add the prawns and skate and cook for another 10-15 min.
    Add the fish and cook for another 15 minutes.
    Add the mussels, clams and tomatoes cover and cook for 10-15 min.
    Add a sprinkling of chopped parsley to give more colour to the dish on serving.
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