Sunday, May 23, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 15: Grado to Gorizia

Where are we? Dipping into Slovenia.
Grado: The local tourist site tells me that: Also dubbed the “Sunny Island” (in Italian, Isola del Sole), Grado is a unique tourist destination on the north Adriatic Sea, located on an island between Venice and Trieste. The city is also referred to as the “Little Venice” due to its navigable canals similar to the ones in Venice. Grado is frequented by tourists all over Europe due to its beaches, to its nature richness and to the unique culinary specialties typical of the island.

Gorizia: The Giro tells me that: Nestled between plains and mountains, in the extreme northeast of Italy, strtching on the banks of the Isonzo, where Latin, Slavic and Germanic cultures meet, Gorizia is today, an authentic symbol of the Europe that will be. This is Gorizia, a treasure chest that holds charms and mysteries and which, together with the bordering, Slovenian city of Nova Gorica, was recently named European Capital of Culture for 2025. This nomination sends out an important message, imagining a Europe truly without borders and in which the protagonists are the citizens. But if the future represents a fascinating challenge, Gorizia also has a lot of history and an important past to tell. Also known as the “Nice of Austria”, for its mild climate and the elegance of the views that unfold from its centre at the foot of the medieval castle hill, Gorizia was at the heart of the tragic events of the First and Second World Wars, but today finds its identity as a city of culture, gastronomy, and multiculturalism.

Giro Specialties
Grado: The most famous gradese dish, celebrated by the gradese poet Biagio Marin, is ‘Boreto a la graisana’, an ancient and unique fish soup, accompanied by white corn polenta and characterised by the simplicity of its ingredients (fresh fish, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, salt, black pepper and vinegar); this soup  has dozens of variants, all of them tasty. Created by the fishermen of the lagoon (casoneri) and handed down for generations, it was originally made with fresh fish that could not be sold at the market. The recipe never includes tomatoes, which suggests that it was part of the Grado fishermen’s food tradition even before the discovery of America. Because of its extraordinary history, “Boreto a la graisana” has been included in the list of traditional food products of Friuli Venezia Giulia since spring 2019. Another typical product of Grado’s culinary tradition is the white asparagus of Fossalon; the sandy soils of Fossalon, an agricultural suburb of Grado, are an ideal growing place for the white shoots, which are harvested from the end of April to the beginning of June. In May takes place the “Fossalon Asparagus Exhibition”, during which the “sgorbia d’argento” (the traditional tool used to harvest white asparagus) is awarded to the best producer of white asparagus in Friuli Venezia Giulia.

Gorizia: The gastronomy of Gorizia, set in a truly Central European tradition, draws heavily from the different souls of the city and its territory, from the different cultures and influences that can be found everywhere in its streets and squares. And, thus, in its dishes and on its tables. The cusine of Gorizia is characterized by hearty dishes but, at the same time, it is refined and rich in peculiarities, which are able to fascinate even the most demanding palates. Among the first courses one cannot fail to mention its soups and broths, starting with the jota, a special soup of beans and potatoes enriched, depending on the variants and recipes, with sauerkraut or “brovada”. The legacy of the city’s long belonging to the Austro-Hungarian Empire is the goulasch: a rich spiced meat soup, to be accompanied with bread gnocchi or polenta. Among the most original dishes of the area, one finds certainly Gorizia’s gnocchi, stuffed with plums, and which, despite their markedly sweet taste, are considered to all intents and purposes a first course. Also, famous and enticing is the “ljubljanska” that can be tasted in the many restaurants in the city centre. The steak, stuffed with ham and cheese, is served fried and steaming. Finally, to stay within the main courses, in spring, an omelette with wild herbs is not to be missed. The “gubana” from Gorizia, with its delicate puff pastry and dried fruit filling, or the traditional “strucolo in straza”, in its many variations, jealously guarded by every family, are the best way to end a meal on a sweet note. On the other hand, among the gastronomic products of absolute excellence, in addition to honey, the delicious radicchio “Rosa di Gorizia” stands out, so beautiful in its forms, it has nothing to envy to a flower, and with a unique and only slightly bitter flavour, unlike that of any other radicchio.
The stage: That was an ugly start to the day: bad weather, large crash, some neutralization. Eventually they got going, with the peloton not exactly speeding along.
The break ended up large: Eighty kilometers to go and the gap was around eleven minutes. Fifty five to go and the gap was much the same. The bunch was very much resting up for tomorrow. This, by the way, is the first time they have been in Slovenia in seventeen years.
Ahead, there were some menacing clouds.
Forty kilometers to go and the gap was 12:21. There were moments when the break and the bunch were in different countries, which sounded much more dramatic than ten kilometers apart on the road.
Under twenty five kilometers to go and we saw the beginning of the attacks from within the break group. Yikes, there came the rain.
Jumping from the break Riesebeek, Campenaerts and Torres, with seventeen kilometers to go, they had about thirty seconds over the rest of the break. The trio would become a duo as Torres fell back. Inside four kilometers and the gap was at about sixteen seconds. Behind, an almost crash from Mollema helped to slow the chase. Campenaerts in the sprint! It would be a long wait for the gc group.
Stage:
Pos.Rider Name (Country) TeamResult
1Victor Campenaerts (Bel) Team Qhubeka Assos3:25:25
2Oscar Riesebeek (Ned) Alpecin-Fenix
3Nikias Arndt (Ger) Team DSM0:00:07
4Simone Consonni (Ita) Cofidis
5Quinten Hermans (Bel) Intermarché-Wanty-Gobert Matériaux
6Dario Cataldo (Ita) Movistar Team
7Bauke Mollema (Ned) Trek-Segafredo0:00:09
8Albert Torres Barcelo (Spa) Movistar Team0:00:44
9Juan Sebastian Molano Benavides (Col) UAE Team Emirates0:01:02
10Maximilian Walscheid (Ger) Team Qhubeka Assos  
 

The wineRonc dai Luchis Friulano 2018
Back to Biondivino for this charmer. They say: About as classic as the varietal gets here in the Colli Orientali! Punching well above its humble price tag, it leads with a luscious richness, spilling into the mouth with an abundant palate of ripe yellow stone fruits, fleshy papaya and banana skin. But it’s not all glitz and glamour here; a welcomed tone of astringency counters with herbal tea notes, salted almond and something intensely mineral and zesty providing the much-needed pucker on the tail end.

RECIPE for 6 persons

Pieces of fish

3-4 garlic cloves

½ glass of oil

1 glass of wine vinegar

Coarse salt

Pepper in abundance

White polenta flour

In a large saucepan heat the oil over high heat, add the peeled garlic cloves and brown them until they become dark. Remove the burned slices and arrange the pieces of dried-off fish; brown over high heat, turning the pieces from time to time to make them colour on both sides. Add the vinegar, water, coarse salt and a lot of pepper; cover the pan and boil for about ten minutes to flavour (the time will vary depending on the amount of fish). Check the density of the sauce which should not be too liquid; in the meantime prepare the polenta that will accompany the boreto.


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