Wednesday, May 19, 2021

Wine and Food of the Giro 2021 Stage 11 Perugia to Montalcino

Where are we? Heading from Umbria to Tuscany. 
Perugia: The New York Times tells me that Perguia is one of Italy's most underrated destinations. The local tourist board says: Mighty Etruscan centre and important mediaeval city after that, Perugia guards lovingly precious traces of its luminous historical periods. The city is today the administrative and cultural capital of the Umbria Region, a major tourist and cultural destination, site of the University for over 700 years. The historical Academy of Fine Arts, the Music Conservatorium, and its University for Foreigners, with students coming from all over the world, define furthermore the marked international vocation.

Culturally and socially bright and lively, Perugia is a city full of “secrets” to disclose: the suggestion is to explore it with curiosity to fully appreciate the excitement and fascination of discovery.

Montalcino: Of particular relevance, from Visit Tuscany: The town has been made incredibly rich and famous by its Brunello wine, one of the world's best and most appreciated Italian wines. Montalcino was already well-known for its fine red wines during the 15th century. However, the precious formula of the fantastic Brunello was invented in 1888 by Ferruccio Biondi Santi, who first had the idea of leaving out the grapes used in the traditional Chianti recipe, such as Canaiolo and Colorino, and using only the Sangiovese variety.

Before the Brunello is ready, it must age for a minimum of 5 years, 2 of which must take place in oak barrels, while the Rosso of Montalcino is ready after only one year of aging. Amongst the many renowned wine producers in the area you will find Biondi-Santi, Schidione and Banfi.  

Giro specialties: 
Perugia: Perugia’s cuisine, as well as all Umbrian gastronomy, is very simple and not particularly elaborate and its typical seasonal products enrich the meat dishes (sheep, pork and game) that are the real specialties of the region. The undisputed protagonist of Perugia’s cuisine is without any doubt the precious black truffle of Norcia that is used above all for the preparation of appetizers and first courses (also the white truffle of Val Tiberina is very used in Umbrian cuisine).
Another much appreciated dish is gnocchi al sugo d’oca (gnocchi is a particular pasta made with boiled potatoes and flower, here served with goose meat ragù), a true specialty of Perugian cuisine that are prepared purely by hand and are seasoned with tomato, oil, garlic, pieces of young goose and semi-seasoned pecorino cheese.
Another dish we recommend is Palombacci alla Perugina, wild pigeons which are cooked in earthenware saucepans.
These wild pigeons are salted and peppered both internally and externally and then wrapped in slices of prosciutto (ham).Lastly, the famous Torta al testo, one of the most popular dishes of Umbria.This white focaccia has the particular characteristic that it is not made to rise,;it is stuffed with vegetables, ham and cheese and is cooked on the “testo” which is a stone heated or placed upon the fireplace embers.

Montalcino: The production of oil has an ancient tradition handed down from generation to generation and has characterized the extraordinary landscape that makes this land recognizable all over the world. Olive trees, have different characteristics depending on the variety; the most common are “moraiolo”, “olivastro” and “pendolino”. From the squeezing of the olives harvested between October and November, you get an oil with an intense green color and with a low percentage of fats. Among the oldest and most relevant activities in the Montalcino economy, typical honeys are obtained from bee breeding depending on the extent and typicality of the Mediterranean scrub and the woods surrounding Montalcino, for some years “Città del Miele”. In Montalcino various qualities of honey are produced, including millefiori, acacia honey and chestnut honey. The interest around this delicious product gave rise to an important annual event at the beginning of September: “Honey Week”, a market exhibition of apiary products and equipment. Considerable production of sweet or salty pecorino cheese in the fresh, semi-seasoned and aged types by a few but experienced local hands. Part of the Montalcinese tradition are hams, sausages, salami, finocchiona, soppressata, buristo. Fabulous first courses, among which you cut out a place apart from the pinci with sauce or the pappardelle alla hare. Delicious second courses such as poultry roasts, tripe, fegatelli and game dishes, both in salmì and spit: pheasant, peck, hare, wild boar. A place of excellence deserves the white truffle of the Crete Senesi di San Giovanni d’Asso, considered one of the most valuable truffles in Italy. To celebrate it, since 1985 in San Giovanni d’Asso, a truffle exhibition-market takes place in November.

The stage: The Strade Bianche stage. In translation: it was time for the white gravel roads. It is always fun to viewers to watch the riders on a different surface. For the riders, not always so much. 
The break was given a lot of room:  To come was this:
I did appreciate the gravel ahead countdown clock on the video feed.
14:31 for the break! That was likely to be the high point. Also, there were rumors of rain ahead, which would add a lot of additional chaos. 
Nibali at the front of the peloton was a lovely to see. Ganna at the front was probably much scarier for many riders.
First sector done and the gap to the break was down to just above 10 minutes.
There were also splits in the main peloton, with some of the gc riders, including Evenpoel,  in a group thirty seconds back from the Bernal group.
With Ganna dropping from the front, those groups would come back together.
Forty six kilometers to go and the gap to the break was at 9:19. 
Missing from the front group Dan Martin and Formolo.
Thirty seven kilometers to go and the gap was about eight minutes. 

Twenty six kilometers to go and the gap to the break was still seven minutes. 
As they got closer, a reminder of those in the break:  Back onto the gravel and Evenpoel was once again looking uncomfortable and was losing a lot of time quickly. In contrast, at the front, Bernal looked great. There was some anger or perhaps frustration with Evenpoel. There was likely to be some discussion of that post-stage.
Nine kilometers to go and there were three at the front, Covi, De Bondt and Schmid.
Behind them, more splits in the gc group. That group was down to around 14.
More riders would drop from that group including Nibali and Ciccone.
Further behind, Evenpoel was looking to be really struggling again.
Meanwhile, Bernal continued to look dominant.
Up further ahead, Schmid with the stage win!
Surprise winner and a sginificant gc change. What a stage.








The wine: Sesti Rosso di Montalcino 2018
Why, yes, I did read that it was the Brunello stage. But sometimes I like to deviate slightly. Back to Kermit Lynch for this one, and if you could resist a wine with this description, you are a different person than I am: The Toscana Rosso “Monteleccio” is the Usain Bolt of Sesti’s Olympian lineup: explosive, flashy, and usually built for the relatively short-distance sprint. Made from Sangiovese vines planted in oceanic sediment in the heart of the Brunello di Montalcino appellation, this bottling is divided from the Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino in the cellar, where Elisa Sesti and her father, Giuseppe, decide which barrels hold the juice best suited for each bottling. Derived from the Latin name for Montalcino—“hill of the holm oaks”—Monteleccio is an enormously pleasurable, populist wine that evokes juicy, ripe cherries, rhubarb, and a touch of mint. This rosso is filled with class, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously.
     That said, even though Usain Bolt is probably best known for the 100-meter dash, he also holds the world record for the 200-meter. Have you ever seen him run more? I haven’t, but I bet he’d stun even in the 400-meter. This Monteleccio can probably also go the distance beyond the short, explosive sprint we love it for. That is where the nobility of the Brunello-quality grapes comes in. Succulent and tightly coiled, with a beautifully integrated tannin and outstanding finesse, this “baby Brunello” punches way above its weight and will serve you well again and again!

The food: This is the day to get some good olive oil!
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