Monday, May 24, 2021

Wine and food of the Giro 2021 Stage 16: Sacile to Cortina D'Ampezzo

Where are we? Heading to the Veneto
Sacile: The Giro tells me that it: is the westernmost town of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. It is unknown whether its name originates from Saccus (cove) or Sacellum (temple, sacred place). Its main characteristic is that it is a “water town”, since it originated and developed along the banks of one of the most important rivers on Friuli territory, the Livenza.

Cortina D'Ampezzo: The Giro raves: 
Cortina d’Ampezzo is a gem of sheer beauty in the middle of the Italian Alps, just 2 hours North of Venice, surrounded by the scenic peaks of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage.
Over 1000 years of inhabitation have endowed the town with a set of precious traditions, a rich history and its own local language. Cortina was among the first Alpine destinations to host tourists, firstly explorers and scientists, then the royals and aristocrats of several countries; it kept evolving and transforming, remaining at the centre of the stage: Italy’s first Olympic Games in 1956, the Dolce Vita in the 60s and then the films and film stars, the sparkly 80s. It hosted the 2021 World Ski Championships and the Winter Olympics 2026 will take place here as well.


Giro specialties:
Sacile: 
Popular cuisine finds its roots in peasant traditions. It is composed of simple and genuine dishes, faithful to the habits of the past with revisitations that generate a mix of tradition and modernity and are expression of the rhythms of nature and of the historical contamination of a territory geographically placed between Venetian and Friulian people. Wild spring herbs like pevarel (wild poppy), grisol (bladder campion), bruscandoi (wild hops), preti (dandelion), sparesi de rust (shoots of the butcher’s broom) and radicele (wild chicory) are the basis of first courses and side dishes.  In the garden radicchio reigns supreme; it is customary to prepare Radìci e fasiòi có le frithe (radicchio and beans seasoned with cracklings) sometimes accompanied by cured meats prepared in the winter months: salami cooked with vinegar, or muset col cren (cotechino with horseradish).
Among the first courses we find soups, but also potato dumplings seasoned with sauce of rasa (duck sauce) and risi e bisi (risotto with peas); among the sauces for pasta we mention the tocio, a sauce obtained from the cooking of meat of various types. To be tasted also the bigoi in salsa, spaghetti of large diameter, served with sardele da sal (sardines preserved in salt), a typical recipe in Lent, together with renga (herring) and sarde in saor (sardines seasoned with sweet and sour onions). Among the fish dishes, the trout of Livenza is the undisputed queen.
Main courses mostly include bovine meat and chickens in tecia (cooked in the pan). Among the farmyard animals, is worth mentioning the Gal de semensa, a tradition born from the habit of preserving for the perpetuation of the species the best cockerel, a specimen that was then cooked in a pan and offered to the head of the family on August 2nd, “Feast of Men”. Tripe, nervetti and corned tongue are often found as cicchetti (small snacks or side dishes) in taverns.
Local cheese and fresh or grilled polenta, white or yellow, are always present on the table. Among the desserts is worth mentioning the Pinza dell’ Epifania (typical cake of the Epiphany), prepared using also the polenta and enriched with raisins and dried figs.

Cortina D'Ampezzo: The traditional cuisine of Cortina d’Ampezzo reflects its location and history as a blend of Italian and Tyrolean flavours with genuine local products and a sprinkle of innovation.
Typical recipes and signature dishes like spätzle, barley soup, goulash, buckwheat cake, raspberry and gelato just to name a few, are made with home-grown products, freshly prepared by experienced hands.
Herbs, fruits, seeds: all the goodness of nature
Growing many different types of vegetables, not to mention fruit, in the Alpine climate has always been difficult. However, mountain woods and meadows have several fruits, herbs and other tasty secrets to offer those who know where to find them – and how to use them.
Wild herbs growing in the Ampezzo Valley include cumin and juniper, which are used to season meats or to flavour grappas, as well as bladder campion, cheròute in the local language, best used for risottos and casunziei, a sort of moon-shaped ravioli, especially in their red version with a beetroot filling.
Spinach Canederli (Knödel), a delicious no-waste recipe Historically a borderland between Italy and Austria, Cortina encompasses both Italian and Tyrolean flavours in its recipes. One of the most traditional dishes are the canederli, Knödel in German. It’s a delicious recipe that enhances a poor but genuine cooking, and a clever way to use leftover bread.
Brazorà, the sweet focaccia of the Ampezzo tradition Mountain cuisine is an important part of the Italian traditional cuisine: simple dishes made of a few basic products. However, basic ingredients doesn’t mean poor flavour. On the contrary, some traditional recipes are so good and tasty that they are still handed down from generation to generation, and are offered in restaurants or pastry shops. One of these is the recipe for brazorà, a sweet focaccia sprinkled with sugar grains, a crown shaped dessert, just like a hug! A long time ago it was the cake of the wedding invitation: bride and groom personally went to invite their own guests, offering a brazorà with 5 “crostoli” and 5 sugared almonds in the middle.

The stage: The route, challenging. The early news: Breaking news: According to RAI television, the stage has been cut to 155km, cutting out the Fedaia and the Pordoi but keeping the descent from the Passo Giau to the finish in Cortina.
The weather, menacing. The break, interesting.
Speaking of Nibali. Always nice for him to give us a bit of a flashback.
Eventually though, it was again time for Bernal to show off his amazing form.
With spotty tv coverage on the day, we would only see bits and pieces of the day. A lot of "we are hearing," and I was feeling bad for the commentators.
It appeared, from word on the street, that Bernal was closing in on the win and gaining time. Exactly how much time was unclear. Indeed, we were able to see him finish. Next in, Bardet and Caruso.
Stage:

GC:
Pos.Rider Name (Country) TeamResult
1Egan Bernal Gomez (Col) Ineos Grenadiers66:36:04
2Damiano Caruso (Ita) Bahrain Victorious0:02:24
3Hugh Carthy (GBr) EF Education-Nippo0:03:40
4Aleksandr Vlasov (Rus) Astana-Premier Tech0:04:18
5Simon Yates (GBr) Team BikeExchange0:04:20
6Giulio Ciccone (Ita) Trek-Segafredo0:04:31
7Romain Bardet (Fra) Team DSM0:05:02
8Daniel Martinez Poveda (Col) Ineos Grenadiers0:07:17
9Tobias Foss (Nor) Jumbo-Visma0:08:20
10João Almeida (Por) Deceuninck-QuickStep0:10:01




The wine
Angiolino Maule La Biancara Masieri
Bianco 2018
From the importer's site: “The wine is the fruit of the earth transformed by mankind; it is the oldest natural beverage known to us. The quality of a wine is that which is imparted by the vineyard; it is indispensable to return to a  and viniculture without  in order to make wines that are expressive of their origins, unique and inimitable and that rise above the standardization and homogeneity that defines the majority of wines commercially available today.”
-Angiolino Maule.

The food: brazorà, from the local tourist site:
Ingredients to make one loaf:
500g flour
80g sugar
80g unsalted softened butter
5 eggs
1 grated zest of lemon
1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract 
16g dried brewer’s yeast
80g milk
To finish: granulated sugar

Method:
Dissolve the yeast in warm milk.
Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix them for about half an hour or until you have a soft dough.
When the dough feels smooth and silky cover it with a tea towel and leave to rise in a warm room, for at least 1/2 hour or longer.
Meanwhile preheat the oven to 170.
On a baking tray divide the dough into three parts and form a braid closed in doughnut
Let it rest for another half an hour .
Gently brush the egg yolk mixed with water over the loaf and sprinkle with sugar.
Bake the Brazolà for 40 minutes until risen and golden.
Leave to cool before serving.

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