Thursday, May 19, 2022

Wine and Food of the Giro 2022 Stage 12: Parma to Genova

Where are we? Leaving Emilia Romagna and heading to Liguria.

Parma: From the Giro: Parma, also referred to as “la petite capitale” (which translates as “the little capital”), has inherited all of the grandeur of the duchy of Marie Louise of Austria. It was the birthplace of two great masters of opera, Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini. It is the capital of the Italian Food Valley and a UNESCO’s Creative City of Gastronomy, for its wealth of DOP and IGP products (protected designation of origin and protected geographical indication, respectively), and for the ability to process and transform these products into culinary masterpieces. It was the Italian Capital of Culture in 2020 and 2021, for its rich museum network and its architectural and artistic legacy. A multitude of definitions that truly captures the many different facets and features of Parma: a small but charming city, where you can dive in the classy atmosphere, and enjoy unique, tailor-made and exciting experiences. After all, as the American poet T.S. Eliot said, “The journey, not the destination matters.”

The food: Parma, the capital of the “Italian Food Valley”, is home to a whopping 12 appellation-protected foodstuffs, including world-renowned protected designations of origin – Culatello di Zibello, Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma – and protected geographical indications – Coppa di Parma, Salame Felino and Fungo di Borgotaro. As certified by the Ismea-Qualivita Report, Parma is the first province in Italy in terms of economic value generated by DOP and IGP productions. Its territory is a leading producer of pasta, canned tomatoes, dairy and, surprisingly, anchovies: despite not being a seaside territory, in fact, the Parma Food Valley accounts for 70% of Italy’s anchovy production (both salted and in oil). Not coincidentally, Parma was named a UNESCO’s Creative City of Gastronomy in December 2015, being the first Italian territory to receive this recognition.
It is often said that food is culture, and this is even truer in Parma. Here, for a start, you will find a network of seven food museums (Musei del Cibo). ALMA, the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian cuisine, is based in nearby Colorno. Parma is also the city of the Gastronomic Library of the Accademia Barilla: a collection of over 14,000 books, 150 old prints and more than 5,000 historical menus. Last, but not least, the University of Parma was Italy’s first-ever to ever launch a public undergraduate program in Gastronomic Sciences.

Genova: Genoa, a city in Northern Italy and the capital of Liguria, is a unique jewel set between sea and mountains. The city, well connected to Milan and very close to the Alps, is one of the main ports on the Mediterranean and hides an heritage of beauty to be explored.The mild climate is perfect for a holiday or a city break to be experienced all year long, among ancient seaside villages, parks, historic buildings of UNESCO heritage, historic shops that preserve the knowledge and the flavours of the past: an authentic cuisine rich of tradition and trekking paths that lead to the discovery of the Genoese fortifications, surrounded by greenery but always with an amazing view over the sea! Genoa is one of those cities that you don’t expect, that makes those who choose to discover it fall in love and that remains in your heart.

The food: Genoa is a city worth tasting. Its culinary tradition has ancient roots and reveals the character of the territory and the cleverness of its people who have been able to invent genuine, tasty and attractive cuisine, using simple ingredients.
Walking through the historic centre it’s impossible to resist the temptation of a piece of Genoese focaccia, a real delight for the palate, ideal for a snack at any time of the day!
At lunchtime nothing like stopping in one of the ancient sciamadde (the term comes from “flame” and identifies the ancient street chip shop with wood oven), where you can taste delicious specialties such as farinata, made with chickpea flour and baked in a wood oven, stuffed anchovies, frisceu (tasty salty fritters made with batter) and numerous vegetable pies.
At dinner time, there are many restaurants where you can spend the evening and enjoy the specialties of Genoese cuisine, first of all the pesto, the undisputed king of local food, which here has a unique flavour, also thanks to the Genoese D.O.P. (denomination of controlled origin) basil.
Typical Genoese cuisine is also rich in fish dishes, such as cappon magro, a scenic and appetizing fish salad; the stockfish is excellent both “accomodato” (stewed with potatoes, olives and pine nuts) and like a salad, called brandacujun. And then the anchovies, prepared in a thousand different ways! To end on a sweet note, not to be missed the pànera, a typical coffe-flavored parfait and the Genoese pandolce, a typical Christmas dessert that can be found in the pastry shops all year round!


The stage: The longest stage of this year's Giro! This stage said breakaway to many and indeed, we had a large group of 24 away after about 60 kilometers of back and forth to form that group. We also had the not unexpected departure of Caleb Ewan. 
That large group would break apart, leaving Leemreize (TJV), Oldani (AFC), and Rota (IWG) in front. Twenty kilometers to go and they had 43 seconds to the first chase group and almost 8 minutes to the main peloton. Those gaps would grow.
Eight kilometers to go and they had 41 seconds. As they closed in, the announcers delighted in telling us that none of the three had ever won a pro bike race.
Oldani!  





The wine: Punta Crena Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vigneto Ca’ da Rena
from Dig
From the importer: A bottle that empties so quickly you’re surprised to see the bottom. The first time Kermit tasted this Pigato, the bottle was gone before the fish course arrived. He then ordered a second bottle—the ultimate compliment.

The food: Farinata 
Farinata (Chickpea Flour Pancake)
Recipe courtesy of Eataly
1 cup chickpea flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for sautéing & finishing
½ small yellow onion, thinly sliced (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Whisk the chickpea flour with 1 3/4 cups water, then whisk in the salt and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Cover the mixture, and set aside at room temperature for at least 1 hour or as long as 12 hours; the longer the better.
If you're using the onion, sauté the thin slices in extra virgin olive oil until soft and translucent but not brown. Just before finishing, stir in the herbs to cook for a few moments, then add the cooked onions to the mixture.
Heat an oven to 400°F. Heat a few teaspoons of extra virgin olive oil in a 12-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the flour and onion mixture to the skillet. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook for about 20 to 30 minutes. Check the "doneness" by inserting a knife in the center; if the knife comes out clean, it's done. If the top has not already browned, place the pancake under a broiler for 1 to 2 minutes until it is flecked with tasty brown spots.
Remove the skillet from the oven, and let it cool for a minute. Carefully transfer the farinata from to a cutting board. Cut it into wedges, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil (points if it's Ligurian), and top with a ridiculous and obscene amount of freshly and coarsely ground black pepper. Serve warm.
Recipe from Eataly
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