Thursday, May 12, 2022

Wine and Food of the Giro 2022 Stage 6: Palmi to Scalea

Where are we?
To the mainland, biking through Calabria from Palmi to Scalea.

Palmi: The Giro tells me that: The city of Palmi is set on a hill on the southern Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria. The many panoramic points allow you to enjoy the view of the Strait of Messina, the Aeolian Islands and Capo Vaticano. Protected on one side by Mount S. Elia, which is the most protruding spur towards the sea of the Aspromonte chain, founded at the end of the 14th century on a 10th century settlement of the Taurianesi, Palmi was the birthplace of many illustrious men, such as: Francesco Cilea, Leonida Repaci, Domenico Antonio Cardona and Nicola A. Manfroce. 
Starting from the white beaches of the Tonnara and proceeding along its 11km of coastline, we arrive at the splendid coves Marinella and Rovaglioso. The Scoglio dell’Ulivo (Rock of the Olive Tree), a unique and very rare rocky conformation, has become an icon of the city. All these coastal beauties are an integral part of the extraordinary “Costa Viola” (Violet Coast) area, characterized by crystal clear water and breathtaking seabed, a destination for diving enthusiasts. We also find cliffs overlooking the sea through which the “Tracciolino”, one of the most evocative nature trails in the Mediterranean, winds its way.

The Food: Oddly, the Giro has no food suggestions. 

Scalea
Scalea is one of the oldest cities in Calabria: it is the Heir of the Greek-Lucan city of Laos and the Roman Lavinium. From the wide coasts and the crystal-clear sea, you can go up through a gorgeous and picturesque street, that climb into a suggestive ancient village with typically medieval architecture.
Scalea is located on a stepped hill dominated by the ruins of the Norman Castle and is characterized by its narrow and winding alleys, the steps in living stone, and historic buildings. On the coast, there is the Ajnella cliff, full of caves and small bays, while the beach extends for kilometers to the south and it is interrupted only by the imposing reef on which it rises Talao Tower.

The Food: The gastronomic tradition of Scalea is based on modest recipes and dishes, handed down from generation to generation; however, they are often revisited in a modern way, even if they use local raw materials. It is a very simple seafaring culture that includes in the gastronomic tradition also the farmer culture; this is coherent with the landscape that is characterized by the mountains that meet the sea within a short walking distance.
The main element of the Scaleota cuisine is the blue fish: from marinated anchovies to stuffed ones, up to rosamarina. “Spaghetti alla scaleota” flavored with anchovies, tomato sauce and crispy stale bread passed in red pepper and enriched with hot pepper is a must in the menus of restaurants and trattorias. Among the first courses based on meat, it is not possible to miss the fusilli with meat sauce, made from mixed pork, veal and with the classic braciola or the more decisive goat meat sauce. Among the second courses a typical dish is the fried codfish stands out accompanied by browned peppers, dried in the summer sun and then fried for a few seconds in boiling oil to give crunchiness. 
Another important place is represented by cold meats and sheep and goat cheeses above all. There are many side dishes, from the classic pickled vegetables like aubergines, courgettes and dried tomatoes, to fresh ones like “pip ‘e patan”, peppers and potatoes stewed in a pan with a truly unique taste.
Very interesting are the reinterpretations of typical first courses of Italian cuisine such as carbonara transformed into a “marinara “version and the integration in the local cuisine, the use of the Santa Domenica Talao truffle.
The desserts reflect most of all the simplicity of the local gastronomy: the fichi secchi, the crocette, the Christmas roses, the Easter pizzatole and then all the various cedar preparations expertly proposed by the pastry chefs of the area.


The stage
: Looks at the stage profile, goes to the gym for a spin class. Comes home, sees 80 kilometers remaining.
Indeed, everyone anticipates a sprint finish and the break consisted of a solo rider. A lot of kilometers for Diego Rosa to ride alone.
The Giro had a snack suggestion:
Forty six kilometers to go and the gap had gone down to 1:34. 
I laughed.
Twenty eight kilometers to go and there was the long awaited catch. Nice ride, Rosa.
Photo finish! Why not, after a dull stage. Demare with the win.

The wine:  Scala Ciro Bianco 2020
from BiondivinoIn a nutshell, Scala’s Cirò Bianco, fashioned from the Greco Bianco grape, leads one to thoughts of gently crashing Mediterranean waves, warm sandy beaches and bowls of fresh-cut pasta with spoonfuls of home-made pesto and Calabrian chili. A little nudge beyond light-bodied, this wine is achingly fresh, clean and crisp in the mouth - meyer lemon, tangerine, bitter orange, and a faint wafts of both the tropical and the savory. Makes a case for drinking more whites with this kind of southern charm.

The food:

Carbonara alla Marinara

I was curious about the carbonara variation and found a recipe here.
Ingredients for 4
12 oz. long fusilli or bucatini
1⁄2 cup milk
3 oz. smoked tuna carpaccio
2 large egg yolks
salt-cured tuna roe (fresh or grated)
1 tsp. sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled
extra-virgin olive oil
salt – pepper

Cut the smoked tuna carpaccio into 1⁄4" strips. 

In a mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks with sugar, a pinch of salt, and pepper.

Rub the surface of a 2 qt. saucepan with the garlic clove to impart aroma during cooking. Add the milk and bring to a boil. Pour in the egg yolk mixture and return to the saucepan. 

Cook over low heat for 5 minutes or until the cream begins to thicken. If using a thermometer, this happens at around 175°F.

Remove from heat and let cool, then add tuna carpaccio strips.

Bring water to a boil in a 6 qt. pot, season with salt, add the pasta, and cook until al dente. Drain with a slotted spoon to keep the pasta wet. Toss with the tuna-infused cream, and salt-cured tuna roe to taste.

Top with 1 Tbsp. oil and pepper, and serve immediately.

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