Friday, May 27, 2022

Wine and Food of the Giro 2022 Stage 19: Marano Lagunare to Santuario di Castelmonte

Where are we?  In Friuli heading into Slovenia!

Marano Lagunare: The Giro says that 
in Friuli, along the state road from Venice to Trieste, turning south, there is a small strip of land that has its own natural extension in a huge water basin, the Lagoon. It is closed to the sea by a coastal barrier of islands and sandy banks. This is Marano Lagunare: the last bastion of mainland before the sea.
A small and ancient village of which the first historical information dates back to 590 when it was chosen by the Patriarch of Aquileia to be the seat of “Sinodo” consequently to the Capitoline schism.
An ancient fortress of the Serenissima that was conquered during the 16th century. It is remained almost intact during the centuries in order to prove the glory and the history of this unique Venetian speaking community in land of Friuli.

The foodBesides the Venetian parlance, Marano Lagunare has managed to preserve over the centuries its own culture and culinary traditions by giving value to the products of this land, of salt and brackish water, which have been the main characters of the typical dishes on the table of local people.
The undisputed king of traditional cuisine is the “Bisato in speo”, which is an eel cooked over direct fire for hours on a spit of wood and seasoned with laurel leaves and coarse salt. This is an exclusive and unique dish in the world prepared by the fishermen of Marano, which is still present on our tables and it is dedicated to special days and guests.
Another traditional dish is the “Boretto alla Maranese”. It is a very simple course to prepare, in the past it was found typically on the tables of fishermen and it was composed by many different fish species which cannot be marketed since they were ruined during fishing. The “Molecche fritte” are famous among the shellfish, it is a well-known dish even in the Venetian lagoons. This course is made of a soft-shell crab, which is covered by a soft and velvety skin.
Even if these traditional dishes are still present on our tables, there are several courses that compose our current culinary landscape. The Marano Lagunare historic centre is plenty of restaurants, trattorias and inns where is possible to taste typical products, the tradition and find the refinement. Many renowned restaurants offer the opportunity to try raw seafood fished on site or sold in the local fish market, which is the biggest one for fresh fish in Friuli Venezia-Giulia and one of the largest in northern Italy. In addition to fresh fish, local restaurants offer several types of bivalve mollusks. Both raw and cooked “fasolari” have become increasingly famous on local tables and they are used in kitchens with “vongole veraci”, “peverasse” (clams) and “capesante” (scallop) in order to prepare different dishes raging from sauces for pasta, to gratins and other more refined recipes

Santuario di Castelmonte:  The Giro says that Prepotto is an Italian town with just over 700 inhabitants in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Among the largest municipalities in the province of Udine, its 34 neighbourhoods cover a surface of 34.24 km². It borders for 15 km with Slovenia coinciding with the Judrio stream, which was the border between the Republic of Venice and Austria with the Treaty of Worms of 1521. The borderland has a particularly interesting history, a perfect synthesis of cultures and populations that have animated this area of Friuli.

The foodThe cuisine of Prepotto as a borderland has been strongly influenced by history and by the exchange with neighbouring populations, becoming a fusion. In particular, the two culinary traditions that have most influenced it, like all Friulian cuisine, are Slavic on the one hand and the Austro-Hungarian on the other.
Prepotto’s cuisine therefore shares most of the dishes we encounter in the rest of the Natisone Valleys and the Friulian plain. It is a cuisine which reuses the ingredients, one of its symbolic dishes is undoubtedly the frico, which is prepared using the scraps and remains of Friulian cheeses, mixing them with potatoes and onions.
The white or yellow cornmeal polenta is very significant, it accompanies every traditional dish, while the toc ‘in braidea accompanies a cream of Friulian cheeses or a sausage ragù.
Soups are highly important, including bean and potato soup which require long cooking and preparation. Among the first courses there is no shortage of homemade pasta cut in the shape of tagliatelle or blecs, or irregular squares in addition to potato, spinach or pumpkin gnocchi in Autumn. With a contrasting flavour we find at the end of summer the potato gnocchi stuffed with plums, a unique and delicious dish that represents well the melting pot of traditions. In spring we find dishes with wild herbs, in particular risotto with “sclopit” (Silene) or “ruscolins” (wild asparagus) and omelette with “urticions” (wild hops).
The most used meat is certainly pork. In the past, home-reared pigs provided the family with meat and fat throughout the year. Like the rest of Friuli, the municipality of Prepotto boasts a very rich heritage of traditional cured meats. One of the best known sausages is the “musetto” (muzzle) which takes its name from the animal’s face. It is almost a ritual food at Christmas and the New Year, which is served together with another symbol of Friulian cuisine that has received DOP protection, the brovada: turnips soured by a long fermentation under the pomace of grapes to red berry. With the meat dishes there is no shortage of beef, game and poultry, especially chicken and rabbits.
Prepotto extends into the valley of the Judrio river, therefore among the traditional cuisine we find trout and, once upon a time, crayfish.
One of the more typical desserts is the Gubana, from the Slovenian “Guba” or “fold” due to its shape; is a dessert made from raised dough with a filling of dried fruit, all embellished with grappa.


The stage: To Slovenia they went, at least briefly. Up the road was the expected break. It consisted of 
 Andrea Vendrame (AG2R Citroën), Tobias Bayer (Aplecin-Fenix), Magnus Cort (EF Education-EasyPost), Clement Davy, Attila Valter (Groupama-FDJ), Koen Bouwman, Edoardo Affini (Jumbo-Visma), Mauro Schmid, Davide Ballerini (QuickStep-AlphaVinyl), Edward Theuns (Trek-Segafredo), Fernando Gaviria (UAE Team Emirates), and Alessandro Tonelli (Bardiani-CSF-Faizanè). With 100 kilometers to go they ahd 9 minutes. More surprising, was Porte falling off the back of the gc group. Word from Wiggins on the motorbike that he was suffering from stomach issues. Just over 80 kilometers to go and word that he had abandoned. Terribly sad, always, but as this was his last grand tour due to retirement plans, it was doubly sad.
Just over 75 kilometers to go and into Slovenia, with the gap still over 8 minutes.
Fifty kilometers to go and the gap was just over 9 minutes to the disintegrating break. Remaining at the front, Schmid, Bouwman, Tonelli, and Valter. Under 40 kilometers to go and the gap was around 8 minutes. Back at the front, Vendrame.
Snack time: Back into Italy they went and with 24 kilometers to go, the gap was over 7 minutes.
The break should take the stage, but would there be attacks from within the gc group? Wiggins on the motorbike thought so.
Ten kilometers to go and there were about 30 riders left in the bunch.
Five kilometers to go and there had been no action from either the break or gc groups. With 3 kilometers to go, the attacks began from the front group, but no one could get away. Behind, when we got as brief glimpse, an acceleration from Ineos and the gc group got smaller. Eventually, Carapaz, followed by Hindley and Landa. Landa attack as the break hit the finish. 
In the front Bouwman after an awkward finish that involved some misdirection.
In the gc group, the three stayed together.

STAGE
RANKNAMETEAMTIME
1BOUWMAN KoenJumbo-Visma4:32:55
2SCHMID MauroQuick-Step Alpha Vinyl Team0:00
3TONELLI AlessandroBardiani-CSF-Faizanè0:03
4VALTER AttilaGroupama - FDJ0:06
5VENDRAME AndreaAG2R Citroën Team0:10
6BAYER TobiasAlpecin-Fenix2:45
7MARTIN GuillaumeCofidis3:49
8CARAPAZ RichardINEOS Grenadiers3:56
9HINDLEY JaiBORA - hansgrohe3:56
10LANDA MikelBahrain - Victorious3:56





The wine
Tuo Pinot Grigio from Dig They say: A super-tasty everyday white, Sorgente’s Tuo is 100% stainless-raised Pinot Grigio smelling of citrus, herbs, a bit of salt. Tasty, fresh, bright, with good acidity. Sweet value.

The food
Toc' in braide 
The dish is usually made with a combination of cornmeal, water, salt, milk, butter, and grated cheese such as Grana Padano, Montasio, or Ricotta. The cornmeal is cooked in boiling salted water while constantly stirring to avoid lumps.

The cheese is melted with the milk in a bain-marie. The butter is mixed with cornmeal and the mixture is toasted over high heat. The dish is assembled by placing the polenta on the plate, topping it with the cheese and milk mixture, while the butter and cornmeal mixture is added in the end. Toc' in braide is served immediately, usually as an appetizer.

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