Thursday, May 26, 2022

Wine and Food of the Giro 2022 Stage 18: Borgo Valsugana to Treviso

Where are we? In Trentino and the Veneto.

Borgo Valsugana: The Giro tells me that the village is the only example in Trentino to be crossed by the river Brenta, also the classicism of the facades of the buildings along the Ausugum make it truly exclusive. The houses climb on the slopes of Mount Ciolino where stands the Telvana castle with its towers and, below, the convent of the cloistederd nuns. The town stretches along the sides of the old imperial road, while the new buildings expand towards the hamlet of Olle which still retains the characteristics of a rural village. The medieval character of Borgo has remained almost intact in its urban layout: streets, hallways, courtyards characterize it along with austere Renaissance and Baroque palaces.

The food: Where unspoiled nature and green pastures meet the culture and passion of healthy eating, here come on our tables the best mountain flavors. From polenta with the famous Valsugana flour to the genuineness of the small fruits of Sant’Orsola; from the excellent sausages to the local dairy products, such as the typical alpine cheese “Vezzena” and “Lagorai”. But also honey, the apples of Trentino, the radicchio of Bieno, the medicinal herbs of Valsugana , the chestnuts of Roncegno are transformed into truly unique dishes thanks to the magic touch of the people who take part in their processing.
In addition, in Valsugana-Lagorai the “Slow Food conduct” which aims to promote and safeguard the agri-food heritage of the territory: the good and healthy cuisine, here, is a treasure handed down from generation to generation.

Treviso: The Giro tells me that Treviso is the historical capital of the Marca Trevigiana. Lying at the confluence of the Sile and Botteniga rivers, it is referred to as a “waterworld city”. Its many springs create a dense network of streams and canals that run across and around the city. The old town centre, located along the right bank of the Sile, dates from the Roman age. Piazza dei Signori is its beating heart. Treviso has a rectangular layout, with a maze of narrow alleys, lined with richly adorned houses, with porticoes and barbicans.

The food:  Sopa coada is a hearty squab and bread soup, traditionally made from layers of bread, topped with grated cheese and boned wine-braised squab, which are then soaked in stock and baked for a few hours.
Pasta e fasioi is a staple of local cuisine. It is served as a thick soup made with creamed borlotti or Lamon beans, and ditalini pasta. Sometimes, a light mirepoix, or pork rind or cheek lard are used for added flavour. Traditionally, it is served on a layer of raw radicchio tardivo, and sprinkled with pepper.
Risotto with ‘rosoline’ is made with tender poppy leaves which are picked in the springtime, before the flowers bloom. The leaves are quickly blanched, and then eaten as a side dish, along with other leafy green vegetables, or used to make tasty risotto.
The most highly regarded typical products include tiramisù, radicchio and Prosecco, along with Casatella Trevigiana DOP (cheese) and asparagus.
Tiramisù is a layered dessert made from sponge fingers soaked in coffee, and a custard-like cream made with eggs, sugar and mascarpone cheese. The first known recipe, invented at Le Beccherie restaurant, dates back to 1962. The name of this dessert comes from the local vernacular expression “tirame su”, a reference to the uplifting effects of its ingredients.
The iconic ‘red’ radicchio first appeared in the 15th century. The winter varieties are grown by ‘forcing’ them after harvesting: left in the dark under tarps, the heads become crispier and tastier.
Casatella Trevigiana Dop is a fresh cheese that was traditionally made in farmers’ houses using the milk left over from direct human consumption. This cheese is soft and creamy, with a delicate scent of fresh milk and a sweet, slightly acidic taste.
Asparagus has been grown in the region since the Roman age. The stalks are ivory white, with hints of pink, and are used in flavourful traditional recipes such as risotto, or cooked ‘au gratin’, with morlacco cheese.


The stage: Big news of the morning: Almeida out of the race with a Covid positive. He had been in fourth.
A sprint stage deep in week 3. The reason some of the sprinters climbed the mountains earlier. In my case, an opportunity to see the break form, head to the gym for a spin class, and return home to see the same likely doomed riders at the front. They were Magnus Cort (EF Education-EasyPost), Dries De Bondt (Alpecin-Fenix), Edoardo Affini (Jumbo-Visma), and Davide Gabburo (Bardiani-CSF-Faizanè). Also, it was gorgeous.
Forty five kilometers to go and the gap was 2:49 as the bunch hit the gas.
Ahead, there were wet roads and a circuit. It seemed the bunch wanted to catch the break before they got there. Thirty four kilometers to go and the gap was at 2 minutes. Twenty kilometers and the break hit the circuit with a gap of just over one minute. Further behind, there had been a split in the peloton. Thirteen kilometers and 1:10. I still thought they would be caught. Yet at 7 kilometers, it was still around a minute. Three kilometers and 37 seconds. Two kilometers, 28 seconds. One kilometer and 21 seconds. Behind, Hindley off the back, but perhaps an incident within the last 3 kilometers. Word that it may have been a flat tire, if so, he would come in at the same time. 
Wow! The break did it. 




The wine:  Baron Widmann Vernatsch
A favorite!
From Dig: A Baron with dirt underneath his fingernails, Andreas Widmann is a meticulous farmer and this lovely, light red is a DIG favorite. Pale in color, with notes of bramble berries, white pepper, and herbs. Savory, with great freshness and personality. Food versatile, too. In the summer we serve it chilled with grilled salmon. 

The food: Treviso Raddicchio with Pancetta from the River Cafe's Cafe Cookbook. Although that recipe is not online, you can find something similar here or here. 

The ingredients are simple and flexible: I used raddicchio, scallions (because I had them iand not onions on hand), garlic, chicken stock, unsalted butter, pancetta,white wine, parmesan. and arborio rice. But rice aside, you could sub out any of those ingredients and still end up with an excellent result. 

The technique is fairly easy: saute your pancetta and scallions until soft, add the raddicchio and cook until well wilted. Then add your rice and stir well until coated. Add the wine and stir until it is evaporated. At that point start adding your chicken stock gradually, adding more after it is absorbed. The total cooking time will probably be around twenty minutes. After the rice is cooked to your liking, take it off the heat, stir in the Parmesan and serve.









The wine:  Baron Widmann Vernatsch
A favorote!
From Dig: A Baron with dirt underneath his fingernails, Andreas Widmann is a meticulous farmer and this lovely, light red is a DIG favorite. Pale in color, with notes of bramble berries, white pepper, and herbs. Savory, with great freshness and personality. Food versatile, too. In the summer we serve it chilled with grilled salmon. 

The food: Treviso Raddicchio with Pancetta from the River Cafe's Cafe Cookbook. Although that recipe is not online, you can find something similar here or here. 

The ingredients are simple and flexible: I used raddicchio, scallions (because I had them iand not onions on hand), garlic, chicken stock, unsalted butter, pancetta,white wine, parmesan. and arborio rice. But rice aside, you could sub out any of those ingredients and still end up with an excellent result. 

The technique is fairly easy: saute your pancetta and scallions until soft, add the raddicchio and cook until well wilted. Then add your rice and stir well until coated. Add the wine and stir until it is evaporated. At that point start adding your chicken stock gradually, adding more after it is absorbed. The total cooking time will probably be around twenty minutes. After the rice is cooked to your liking, take it off the heat, stir in the Parmesan and serve.
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