Sunday, May 15, 2022

Wine and Food of the Giro 2022 Stage 9: Isernia to Blockhaus

Where are we? Heading from the Molise to Abruzzo.

Isernia: The Giro says: Isernia set in a landscape of mountains with snow-capped peaks until the end of April and immersed in the green of its hills, boasts ancient origins dating back to prehistoric times. In fact, at the end of the 70s, of the last century, a prehistoric site of undoubted importance was discovered, allowing to reconstruct the evolutionary dynamics of human groups in the European Pleistocene. The archaeological excavation has brought to light a small piece of our evolutionary history dating back to about 600,000 years ago. In historical times, however, in the first half of the third century. B.C. Rome decides to found a city called Aesernia to start a slow process of Romanization of the Sannio Pentro at that time inhabited, in fact, by the Samnite people. Today the historic center of Isernia, hit several times by earthquakes and wars, still retains many peculiarities, making it unique in some respects: archaeological sites, fountains, squares, alleys, churches and local crafts.
I'm also rather curious about the Onion Festival. Apparently, he Fiera delle cipolle, also known as San Pietro delle cipolle, because it has been said that the mother of Saint Peter was so mean and miserly that the only good deed she ever did was to grant a starving woman an onion. For this reason, the onion festival which has been celebrated annually in Isernia for centuries was dedicated to Saint Peter.

The Food: The food and wine tradition of the Province of Isernia and its capital is characterized by simple and genuine dishes of peasant origin. Numerous dairies with centuries-old traditions transform cow, sheep and goat milk producing both fresh and seasoned cheeses, such as the famous stracciata di mozzarella, caciocavallo, manteche, pecorino and ricotta. The territory is rich in truffles, especially the “white prized” one that can be tasted in autumn. The cuisine is rich in dishes based on legumes, among which the beans of Isernia, that of Acquaviva di Isernia, that of Vastogirardi and the lentils of Capracotta stand out for their uniqueness. 
Among the typical dishes we find pasta alla chitarra, cavatelli with water and flour, potato and flour gnocchi with tomato and pork and pappardelle with wild mushrooms, but the first courses for special occasions are the santè soup and lasagna in capon broth. The main courses range from local meats, especially game, but there is also an ancient tradition in the preparation of cod, typical of Isernia is the one cooked in the so-called “arracanato” style. Among the desserts, the wafers, the rice and wheat pastiera, the calzone stuffed with chickpea cream and cinnamon, the struffoli, the pepatelli, the ferratelle, the castagnole with chocolate and the donuts with naspro are distinguished.

Blockhaus: is one of the highest peaks in Abruzzo and is part of the Majella range. The word Blockhaus is German and can be traced back to the Habsburg domination in the south. It means “rock house” and is the name given to the little military forts built by the Italian army as outposts to combat the brigantry that was rife in some areas in the south of the country following the Unity of Italy.

The food: Among the first courses we can count the “p’ttolozz'” (diamond-shaped pasta made of flour and water) with sauce, once made with a mixture of white flour, cereals and spelt, and the “pasta alla chitarra” of Abruzzo, filaments obtained with a special tool, “lu maccarunar” which is used to give the fresh pasta a square cut and a porous texture that fits well with souce. The “maccarunar” are still built and used in Pretoro.The grilled lamb stands among the second courses. Typical of this dish is the cooking system: in fact, the firewood to cook the meat must be a mixture of wood, from the fir resinous, to the beech free of impurities, to the hornbeam fragrant and to finish branches of Juniper odorous. The salting and the scent must be done with aromatic herbs such as thyme, rosemary, mint, black pepper, red juniper and violet. These are the secrets of an excellent preparation of the pretorese lamb. Other dishes are the “coratella” of lamb and the “turcinelli”, made with the guts of the pig and stuffed with sweetbreads and chili. Among the vegetables we can mention the “ciabbotta”, set of vegetables to be served on slices of homemade bread, and the “pizz’ and foij”, stewed vegetables served with smoked sardine and the “pizza di randinie”, unleavened pizza made with corn flour. Traditionally the “pizza di randinie” is cooked directly on the floor of the fireplace, covered by the “coppo” (a metal lid on which the coal rests), but it will also be very good prepared in the oven or directly in the pan.
Torta del Lupo di Pretoro is a cake made with black chocolate, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine, rum and gianduia. It is a dessert dedicated to Pretoro, a small town of about 850 inhabitants perched on the slopes of the Maiella. Definitely greedy cake, it has a paste generously soaked in rum and an adequate filling of gianduia chocolate.


The stage: This is a stage that viewers had been looking forward to. The riders? Well, one would think they were excited for the rest day tomorrow. Our breakaway of the day: Felix Gall (ACT), Joe Dombrowski (AST), Jonathan Caicedo (EFE), Nans Peters (ACT), James Knox (QST), Natnael Tesfatsion (DRA), Diego Rosa (EOK), Filippo Zana (BCF) and Eduardo Sepúlveda (DRA).
The scenery was quite lovely. Sixty five kilometers to go and the gap was down to 2:27. It was looking like the breakaway was doomed. Perhaps realizing that, the breakaway riders began attacking. Once again, at the front of the peloton, Ineos. With 50 kilometers to go. Nans Peters (ACT), Natnael Tesfatsion (DRA), Diego Rosa (EOK) and Eduardo Sepúlveda (DRA) were at the front with almost a minute on Felix Gall (ACT), Joe Dombrowski (AST) and Jonathan Caicedo (EFE). The peloton was at 2:30.
Yikes, scary crash for Tesfatsion, as he misjudged a corner. He had help and was standing quickly, but looking rather dazed. That left Rosa solo in the lead and his descending was not terribly smooth.
Some good news. Just over 15 kilometers to go and the remainder of the break was caught. Ahead, was, well, this:  Surprising to see Ciccone, one of the locals, in trouble already. Also struggling, Yates, who came into the day the best placed of the gc riders. Also dropped, Kelderman. Words that Yates was just about 25 seconds back. As the gap to Yates went further out, Lopez dropped from the bunch after a touch of wheels. Would he lose the jersey? That front group had gotten very small. Hanging on, to the delight of many on the roadside, Nibali.
Finally, Carapaz with the attack, with him Landa and Bardet. The second group would stay close. Personally, I was cheering for the older guys in the second group.
Speaking of, great ride by Pozzovivo today. This is exactly the sort of stage that I think could turn people into fans, of only it were broadcast on American tv.
Six approaching the line together, but who would get the big prize? Almost a photo finish on a mountain top! Hindley! The question remained, how long until Lopez would make it in? Would he keep or lose the jersey? He would. Great ride from hiom today.
Stage: 


GC: 



The wine:  Cirelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from Biondivino
Revisiting a wine from two years ago.
From the importer: Agricola Cirelli is an organic farm certified by IMC (doc. n.3194 RV.01), surrounded by 23 hectares of land. All of its production is designed to respect the natural cycles of the olive trees, vineyards, horticultural crops and the animal breeding. Crop rotation, natural fertilization, and free range animal grazing are Agricola Cirelli’s “techniques” of production. This harmonious environment creates olive oil, wine, vegetables, fruit and meats of supreme quality.

The farm grows its food and wine in total respect of organic agriculture. Nature sets the rules and it dictates the rhythm of every activity. The animals’ interaction with the land offer natural grazing and fertilization of the vines, which means there is no need to use harmful chemical substances.

Francesco purchased the land in 2003 right after his graduation in Economics at a prestigious European university. Before this, he was a student at the Italian Navy College. He decided to dedicate himself to organic agriculture because of the profound values of working the land (“Right after God the farmer comes next” he was told once). He is now helped out by his fiancée, Michela.


The food: Pizza di Randinie or Grandini  from Italy Revisited 
Originated from: Casacalenda, Molise, Italy
Contributed by: Mary Melfi (her mother's recipe)

Ingredients
Pizza di Randinie [or "Pizz' Grandin'" in Molisani dialect]

1 1/2 cups coarse yellow cornmeal
1 1/2 cups fine yellow cornmeal
2 teaspoons salt
2 to 3 cups boiling water

Directions
Boil water in a large pot on the stove burner. Add salt.
Turn down heat.
In a separate bowl mix the "coarse" cornmeal with the "fine" cornmeal.
Add the mixed cornmeal to the boiled water in the large pot on the stove burner and mix well for a few minutes on low heat (The mixture should be very thick as one will have to make a "pizza" out of it).
Remove the cooked cornmeal from the large pot and knead on a wooden board for a few minutes.
Shape into a dough-ball.
Place the dough-ball into a [9 inch] springform pan and flatten it out (The mixture should be about one inch thick). Alternatively, the dough-ball can be nicely flattened and shaped into a circle and then cooked on a cookie sheet but for this cooking technique to be successful one requires a great deal of skill (It's best to use a springform pan).
Place the springform pan in a preheated 375 degree F oven and bake for 50 to 60 minutes.
Remove from the "pizza di grandini" from the oven and let it cool in the pan.
When it's cooled remove the "pizza di grandini" and place it on a dish.
Before serving, the "pizza di grandini" can be warmed up in the oven and made a bit crustier, or it can be served as is at room temperature.
The pizza di grandini" can be served with Italian cold cuts, stewed vegetables or with "red sauce."
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